Not so hoppy dry hopping

[Tybalthophead]

Ive brewed about 10 beers now, mostly IPA's in a vain attempt to feed my lupulin addiction. Ive tried whirlpool additions, 1-1.5 oz per gallon dry hopping, drinking really good IPA whilst brewing, but still can't get a really nice hop-forward character to come out of my beers. They taste great but just don't have enough hops on the nose to make me really happy.

My AG process has been to add a single bettering addition at 60 minutes, and then one addition at flame out, putting all of the rest at whirlpool about 150 degrees. I ferment in a SS conical and do not use secondary fermentation. Generally about 3 weeks total, then dump out trub from the bottom and begin dry hopping.

I use pellets from my LHBS or Yakima Valley hops. Put them in sanitized panty hose with glass marbles and let them sit about 5 days. Ive taken to doing one addition for 5-7 days in the conical, then transferring via the port on the conical directly to a sanitized corny keg to minimize oxygen exposure. I then add the last few oz for another 5-7 days at about 65 degrees.

Finally chill in the fridge and carb over about a week.

As I mentioned the beers taste really good, but they are just missing that hop punch in the face that Ive experienced with some of our local brews, as well as a few commercials (try Be Hoppy if you are ever in Boston)

I welcome help, comments, criticism, free beer, etc

Thanks!

 

[stratslinger]

What kinds of hop varieties are you using?

Is it only a single hop variety, or multiple, that you're using in a typical brew in the late and dry hop additions?

Can you share a sample recipe?

 

[m00ps]

Ive brewed about 10 beers now, mostly IPA's in a vain attempt to feed my lupulin addiction. Ive tried whirlpool additions, 1-1.5 oz per gallon dry hopping, drinking really good IPA whilst brewing, but still can't get a really nice hop-forward character to come out of my beers. They taste great but just don't have enough hops on the nose to make me really happy.

My AG process has been to add a single bettering addition at 60 minutes, and then one addition at flame out, putting all of the rest at whirlpool about 150 degrees. I ferment in a SS conical and do not use secondary fermentation. Generally about 3 weeks total, then dump out trub from the bottom and begin dry hopping.


Thanks!

Id say you can go upwards of that amount of dry hops per gallon if you are really on a quest for a potent hop character.

Id also do the whirlpool hotter than that. how big is you flameout addition? do you let that sit at just-below-boiling temps? I did an article that may help, near the bottom of the homepage atm

 

[TheHopfather]

^ what m00ps said.

I'd try tossing in all your whirlpool hops at flameout. Have you looked at your water? What is your sulfate content like? How about mash pH? Are you mashing with your pH in the proper range?

Usually the answer to not enough hop character is to add more hops.

 

[sky4meplease]

Can you skip the panties and toss the dry hops in directly?
If your panty wad is too tight maybe you are minimizing the beers exposure to the hop particles.
Really I was just looking for a reason to say panty wad. Sorry I don't really have anything to offer here.

 

[Tybalthophead]

Can you skip the panties and toss the dry hops in directly?
If your panty wad is too tight maybe you are minimizing the beers exposure to the hop particles.
Really I was just looking for a reason to say panty wad. Sorry I don't really have anything to offer here.

Lack of hoppiness gets my panties in a wad!

 

[Tybalthophead]

This was my latest brew- Denny's Rye Smile IPA from this site. I used a total of 5oz Columbus for dry hopping.

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WY2450PC
Yeast Starter: 2L
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.085
Final Gravity: 1.020
IBU: 63.7
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12.7 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21@65F
Additional Fermentation: none
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21@65F
Tasting Notes: Floral and citrus hop flavors play well with the spicy rye and malt body.

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - BeerSmith Brewing Software, Recipes, Blog, Wiki and Discussion Forum
Recipe: Denny Conn's Wry Smile Rye IPA
Brewer:
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.41 gal
Estimated OG: 1.073
Estimated FG: 1.013
Estimated Color: 12.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 63.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
11 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 67.69 %
3 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 18.46 %
1.25 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.69 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.08 %
8.0 oz Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.08 %
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 39.3 IBU
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (Dry Hop) Hops -
1.00 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (FWH) Hops 16.8 IBU
0.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (30 min) Hops 6.5 IBU
1.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (Flameout) Hops 1.1 IBU
1.00 tsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc

Recommended Yeast Selection In Order Of Preference:
----------------------------
1 Pkgs Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast WY2450PC)/Brewtek CL-50 Yeast-Ale



I tend to generally use one of the 4 C's as my hops, but also really like what I get from Simcoe and Citra, and have been using about 3 oz additions as dry hops.

I have not checked my pH but that sounds like a great place to start looking into this issue. Ive heard people say that adjusting pH has taken their beers from good to great.

I will also start adding big additions right at flameout, and add even more hops for dry hopping. Moops I will certainly check out your article. Thanks!

 

[Tybalthophead]

This was my latest brew- Denny's Rye Smile IPA from this site. I used a total of 5oz Columbus for dry hopping.

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WY2450PC
Yeast Starter: 2L
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.085
Final Gravity: 1.020
IBU: 63.7
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12.7 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21@65F
Additional Fermentation: none
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21@65F
Tasting Notes: Floral and citrus hop flavors play well with the spicy rye and malt body.

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - BeerSmith Brewing Software, Recipes, Blog, Wiki and Discussion Forum
Recipe: Denny Conn's Wry Smile Rye IPA
Brewer:
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.41 gal
Estimated OG: 1.073
Estimated FG: 1.013
Estimated Color: 12.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 63.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
11 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 67.69 %
3 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 18.46 %
1.25 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.69 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.08 %
8.0 oz Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.08 %
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 39.3 IBU
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (Dry Hop) Hops -
1.00 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (FWH) Hops 16.8 IBU
0.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (30 min) Hops 6.5 IBU
1.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (Flameout) Hops 1.1 IBU
1.00 tsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc

Recommended Yeast Selection In Order Of Preference:
----------------------------
1 Pkgs Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast WY2450PC)/Brewtek CL-50 Yeast-Ale



I tend to generally use one of the 4 C's as my hops, but also really like what I get from Simcoe and Citra, and have been using about 3 oz additions as dry hops.

I have not checked my pH but that sounds like a great place to start looking into this issue. Ive heard people say that adjusting pH has taken their beers from good to great.

I will also start adding big additions right at flameout, and add even more hops for dry hopping. Moops I will certainly check out your article. Thanks!

 

[pvpeacock]

Try making a hop tea and pouring in the keg instead of your second dry hop. Works for me.

 

[m00ps]

That is a decent amount fo dry hops, but nowhere near what youd need for late/post boil additions for a pungent hop character. plus, mt hood really isnt well suited for IPAs. Its usually used as bittering/flavor additions for stuff like brown ales or porters

 

[CUrchin]

Some good advice above- One other thing to look at is you water. My hoppy beers have improved since I've started paying more attention to water. If your ph is correct it, in theory, should improve the hop extraction rate during the boil and the flavor stability of the beer. Before doing ph I felt like I had good hop nose at bottling but it would disappear by the time I got around to chilling and drinking. The correct amount of gypsum should also help.

 

[CatalinaWineMixer]

I find, other than using "hoppy hops", water profile, yeast strain and a little white table sugar will all help make hops more forward.

I use bottled spring water. Add 1 tsp gypsum in mash water, 8-12 oz sugar (5gal batch) in boil and I personally find most English yeasts compliment hops very well. I also use a minimum 10oz hops in my IPA's. With only 0.5-1.0 oz at 60 min. Everything else is added 5 min or under and in dry hop.

 

[JosephN]

Some good advice above- One other thing to look at is you water. My hoppy beers have improved since I've started paying more attention to water. If your ph is correct it, in theory, should improve the hop extraction rate during the boil and the flavor stability of the beer. Before doing ph I felt like I had good hop nose at bottling but it would disappear by the time I got around to chilling and drinking. The correct amount of gypsum should also help.

Agreed

 

[JosephN]

I find, other than using "hoppy hops", water profile, yeast strain and a little white table sugar will all help make hops more forward.



I use bottled spring water. Add 1 tsp gypsum in mash water, 8-12 oz sugar (5gal batch) in boil and I personally find most English yeasts compliment hops very well. I also use a minimum 10oz hops in my IPA's. With only 0.5-1.0 oz at 60 min. Everything else is added 5 min or under and in dry hop.

Agreed with the gypsum part me each person has different opinions about amours to use but this sounds like a good start.

 

[JosephN]

I would also add that I heard on a very resent episode with the guy from Drakes brewing company, on The Session from The brewing Network, say that the Yakima valley hops kind of took a hit with heat and caused strange flavor while the aroma stayed nearly the same. He also said there was a real inconsistency in their products. I got that with some citra I got from them.

 

[slym2none]

I'd rather have hops flavour than aroma. I usually dry-hop my small batches at 1 oz total, but I'll put 2 oz in a hop-stand aside from the boil hops.

That is something I've noticed with SN's Beer Camp Tropical IPA - it smells WAY better than it tastes. If I could reverse those two, that would be one of my favourite IPAs ever.

I am not saying it tastes bad... I just wish it tasted as strong as it smells.

 

[radwizard]

When I was expirmenting with getting a better hop punch I just made simple Pale Ales, and tried different hopping techniques. Like cool whirlpool vs. hot steep and what not. I had got the results I wanted after a few batches, and I found it to be a lot easier with a simple malt profile. It was just easier for me to identify what was going on in the finished beer.

 

[sky4meplease]

I see a lot of hop forward beers using corn sugar/rice solids or other adjuncts in the recipe to keep up the ABV without adding sweetness or anything that may take away from the hops.
Keep it a light as possible and very attenuable so the hops shine through from start to finish.
This is why IPL is becoming more and more popular.

 

[Mexibilly]

More hops.
2 batches ago I bittered with 1oz Columbus
1oz Amarillo and cascade at 15, 10, 5
1oz each Amarillo, centennial and cascade at FO
Dry hop 5oz Amarillo 6 days
15oz total
This was a pricey brew, but locally available IPAs don't even compare. Aroma is huge. Flavor is huge. Bitterness is just right.
RO with gypsum and CaCl 3:1
Phosphoric to 5.38 pH
92% 2 row
2.66% 120
2.66% 40
2.66% carapils
1lb table sugar
Nice orange leaning toward red, thick white head, good retention.
More hops.

 

[Tybalthophead]

Try making a hop tea and pouring in the keg instead of your second dry hop. Works for me.

Ive read about hop tea but never tried it. How do you go about making the tea? How much and what temps?

Does it really add aroma?

 

[Tybalthophead]

I'd rather have hops flavour than aroma. I usually dry-hop my small batches at 1 oz total, but I'll put 2 oz in a hop-stand aside from the boil hops.

That is something I've noticed with SN's Beer Camp Tropical IPA - it smells WAY better than it tastes. If I could reverse those two, that would be one of my favourite IPAs ever.

I am not saying it tastes bad... I just wish it tasted as strong as it smells.

Totally agree with that beer, the smell is BAM! but the taste is meh.

 

[Tybalthophead]

I would also add that I heard on a very resent episode with the guy from Drakes brewing company, on The Session from The brewing Network, say that the Yakima valley hops kind of took a hit with heat and caused strange flavor while the aroma stayed nearly the same. He also said there was a real inconsistency in their products. I got that with some citra I got from them.

THAT is some really great info. Ive been using their hops exclusively. Sounds like it is time to look at another supplier

 

[Chrisbrewbeers]

Totally agree with that beer, the smell is BAM! but the taste is meh.

I really was impressed with the strong pineapple taste, I hadn't ever tasted it like that in an IPA.

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

I was thinking that a material like pantyhose might grab on to the fragrant volatile oils from the hops. My last batch had a half ounce of Citra per gallon dry hopped and it reached up and smacked me right in the face. This also could have had to do with the 1/3 ounce per gallon additions of Amarillo that I put in at 10 and again at Whirlpool/Steep.

 

[beerkench]

Yeah skip the panties and dump the hops in free. Then if you can rouse the beer in the fermenter every now and then to get the oils out of the dry hop. I dry hop at 68f for 5-7 days then cold crash OR have you tried dry hopping in the keg?

 

[slym2none]

Yeah skip the panties and dump the hops in free.

#hopsgocommando

 

[pvpeacock]

I put 2-3 oz of pellet hops in a French press with 1-2 cups of hot water around 140 degrees and let it steep for an hour. Then press and pour in the keg. In my opinion it adds both hop flavor and aroma.

 

[jcav]

All good advice here. I just finished making a 5 gallon IPA in my new conical a few weeks ago. I did a yeast/trub dump after day four. I did another small dump, about a cup or so, just until I saw some beer, after fermentation. I then used a total of 3 ounces, one ounce each of Columbus, Amarillo and Zythos hops. I just put them in the fermenter without a bag and put a blanket of Co2 on top with my Co2 tank. After four days I cold crashed the conical and all the hops sank to the bottom of the cone and below the racking arm. No hop particles got into my keg when transferring the beer. The aroma was unreal and everyone that tried this kept commenting on just how much aroma I was able to get into this beer. Best of luck brewing!

John

 

[JosephN]

I put 2-3 oz of pellet hops in a French press with 1-2 cups of hot water around 140 degrees and let it steep for an hour. Then press and pour in the keg. In my opinion it adds both hop flavor and aroma.

Would you not worry about the water having any kind of contaminates that would infect/inoculate your beer? I know hops don't have the ability to carry funk but your water does, and I would think 140F water would still carry the funk. Now unless hops can sanitize the water, that would be a different story.

What are your though or, anyone else's?

PS I really do like the idea of doing it your way.

 

[Chrisbrewbeers]

You could probably use 160 degree water and keep it hot awhile to kill anything. People use 150 water for gelatin fining and nothing has ever happened for me. I want to try it myself but will use a fresh bottle of water for sure.

 

[Tybalthophead]

All good advice here. I just finished making a 5 gallon IPA in my new conical a few weeks ago. I did a yeast/trub dump after day four. I did another small dump, about a cup or so, just until I saw some beer, after fermentation. I then used a total of 3 ounces, one ounce each of Columbus, Amarillo and Zythos hops. I just put them in the fermenter without a bag and put a blanket of Co2 on top with my Co2 tank. After four days I cold crashed the conical and all the hops sank to the bottom of the cone and below the racking arm. No hop particles got into my keg when transferring the beer. The aroma was unreal and everyone that tried this kept commenting on just how much aroma I was able to get into this beer. Best of luck brewing!

John

Thanks John, this sounds like pretty sound advice. Im going to give this a go. When you mention cold crashing the conical, do you stick the whole thing in a fridge? Mine is full of kegs, and I don't think my SS conical would fit in there even if it were empty.

 

[jcav]

Yes I put the whole thing in my upright freezer. If you look at my build thread in my sig, at the end you will see a pic of the conical in the freezer that I have. I fermented and dry hopped this particular recipe at 68 degrees and cold crashed at 32 degrees. All the hops dropped perfectly to the lower portion of the cone, and any left over yeast dropped to the bottom. I forgot to mention not only was the aroma out of this world but the flavor was perfect. It was grapefruit, citrus, with pine notes also. A burst of soft bitterness and intense aroma. You have a conical, so you might as well use it to your advantage and dump some the yeast after initial fermentation, and again before dry hopping. Hope this helps, it worked for me and I loved the results....

John

 

[GnenieGone]

Ive brewed about 10 beers now, mostly IPA's in a vain attempt to feed my lupulin addiction. Ive tried whirlpool additions, 1-1.5 oz per gallon dry hopping, drinking really good IPA whilst brewing, but still can't get a really nice hop-forward character to come out of my beers. They taste great but just don't have enough hops on the nose to make me really happy.

My AG process has been to add a single bettering addition at 60 minutes, and then one addition at flame out, putting all of the rest at whirlpool about 150 degrees. I ferment in a SS conical and do not use secondary fermentation. Generally about 3 weeks total, then dump out trub from the bottom and begin dry hopping.

I use pellets from my LHBS or Yakima Valley hops. Put them in sanitized panty hose with glass marbles and let them sit about 5 days. Ive taken to doing one addition for 5-7 days in the conical, then transferring via the port on the conical directly to a sanitized corny keg to minimize oxygen exposure. I then add the last few oz for another 5-7 days at about 65 degrees.

Finally chill in the fridge and carb over about a week.

As I mentioned the beers taste really good, but they are just missing that hop punch in the face that Ive experienced with some of our local brews, as well as a few commercials (try Be Hoppy if you are ever in Boston)

I welcome help, comments, criticism, free beer, etc

Thanks!

One suggestion is to divide your whirlpool additions in half. Put half in at 175F and half at 140F. Myrcene oil (flavor and aroma) volatilizes above 147F.

Also with dry hopping, look into LESS time, not more. As mentioned, myrcene oil is very unstable and will quickly dissolve. I'm experimenting with dry hopping for only 6-8hrs..yes hrs. 2 of the 3 were the juiciest I've ever made. Last one, I wasn't happy with, but that was a recipe issue. This paper from Oregon St. was about this very subject. If this information is correct, we dry hop way too long. If the oils are saturated within hours, anytime after that oils are just slowly going away. I'm also looking into only leaf hops (or as much as possible) to eliminate this grassy/salty flavor I get sometimes with heavy dry hops.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf

I won't be satisfied until my cheep plastic bucket, $30 fermentation temp control setup is better then 98% of the retail beers out there. I'm at 75% now IMHO....when I don't toss it out!

 

[ZmannR2]

More hops.
2 batches ago I bittered with 1oz Columbus
1oz Amarillo and cascade at 15, 10, 5
1oz each Amarillo, centennial and cascade at FO
Dry hop 5oz Amarillo 6 days
15oz total
This was a pricey brew, but locally available IPAs don't even compare. Aroma is huge. Flavor is huge. Bitterness is just right.
RO with gypsum and CaCl 3:1
Phosphoric to 5.38 pH
92% 2 row
2.66% 120
2.66% 40
2.66% carapils
1lb table sugar
Nice orange leaning toward red, thick white head, good retention.
More hops.

This sounds amazing!

 

[Tybalthophead]

One suggestion is to divide your whirlpool additions in half. Put half in at 175F and half at 140F. Myrcene oil (flavor and aroma) volatilizes above 147F.

Also with dry hopping, look into LESS time, not more. As mentioned, myrcene oil is very unstable and will quickly dissolve. I'm experimenting with dry hopping for only 6-8hrs..yes hrs. 2 of the 3 were the juiciest I've ever made. Last one, I wasn't happy with, but that was a recipe issue. This paper from Oregon St. was about this very subject. If this information is correct, we dry hop way too long. If the oils are saturated within hours, anytime after that oils are just slowly going away. I'm also looking into only leaf hops (or as much as possible) to eliminate this grassy/salty flavor I get sometimes with heavy dry hops.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf

I won't be satisfied until my cheep plastic bucket, $30 fermentation temp control setup is better then 98% of the retail beers out there. I'm at 75% now IMHO....when I don't toss it out!

So it sounds like dry hopping for a day or so and then going right into the keg to chill and carb might be the way to go.
I wonder once you have it in the keg, how long before you begin losing aroma.....

 

[GnenieGone]

So it sounds like dry hopping for a day or so and then going right into the keg to chill and carb might be the way to go.
I wonder once you have it in the keg, how long before you begin losing aroma.....

I've had IPAs last a month, then keg run dry. Kegging 2 tonight after work that I dry hopped last night. Hope I never find out!😀

 

[Mexibilly]

This sounds amazing!

This one is very good.
Another in the long line of hop schedule experiments with the same grain bill.
Late addition and dry hops.
My last IPA got all additions at 20 minutes and less. 10oz total at 20, 15, 10, 5, 0.
I'll dry hop probably 3oz for 7 days then keg.
Then I'll try something different.
Then I'll try something different.
Then...

 

[Tybalthophead]

One suggestion is to divide your whirlpool additions in half. Put half in at 175F and half at 140F. Myrcene oil (flavor and aroma) volatilizes above 147F.

Also with dry hopping, look into LESS time, not more. As mentioned, myrcene oil is very unstable and will quickly dissolve. I'm experimenting with dry hopping for only 6-8hrs..yes hrs. 2 of the 3 were the juiciest I've ever made. Last one, I wasn't happy with, but that was a recipe issue. This paper from Oregon St. was about this very subject. If this information is correct, we dry hop way too long. If the oils are saturated within hours, anytime after that oils are just slowly going away. I'm also looking into only leaf hops (or as much as possible) to eliminate this grassy/salty flavor I get sometimes with heavy dry hops.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf

I won't be satisfied until my cheep plastic bucket, $30 fermentation temp control setup is better then 98% of the retail beers out there. I'm at 75% now IMHO....when I don't toss it out!

So if the goal is maximizing hop flavor, it would seem that trying to package the beer into either kegs or bottles in the shortest amount of time while maximizing flavor would be the goal. Perhaps a day or 2 of dry hopping and then right to the keg, carb and serve ASAP to maximize hop aroma? If its true that after a short time the oils are just going away. I wonder about dry hopping right into the keg while serving as Ive read on other posts.....

 

[Tybalthophead]

Yes I put the whole thing in my upright freezer. If you look at my build thread in my sig, at the end you will see a pic of the conical in the freezer that I have. I fermented and dry hopped this particular recipe at 68 degrees and cold crashed at 32 degrees. All the hops dropped perfectly to the lower portion of the cone, and any left over yeast dropped to the bottom. I forgot to mention not only was the aroma out of this world but the flavor was perfect. It was grapefruit, citrus, with pine notes also. A burst of soft bitterness and intense aroma. You have a conical, so you might as well use it to your advantage and dump some the yeast after initial fermentation, and again before dry hopping. Hope this helps, it worked for me and I loved the results....

John

I put 4 oz of Citra in yesterday and will plan to put the conical into the keezer and cold crash. Looking forward to the results!

 

[jcav]

I put 4 oz of Citra in yesterday and will plan to put the conical into the keezer and cold crash. Looking forward to the results!

Excellent, let us know how it turns out. I think you will be pleasantly surprised!

John