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GravyTrain77

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I'm going to be getting my fourth batch soon and i'm definitely still learning and expanding my homebrew world. I got one of the standard living social Midwest kits and have since picked up a 5 gal pot, wort chiller, brew spoon, filter, carboy, and standing bottle capper.

What would you recommend as a next step? An aerator? More buckets?

Still doing extract but thinking about going AG after 3-4 more batches.
 
I would suggest larger pot/ turkey fryer set up so you can do full boils and BIAB (brew in a bag) technique before going to a multi-vessel all grain set up. After that I would think about a stir plate, Erlenmeyer and stir bar for starters.
 
What do you do for temp control - are you happy with that? If so I agree with the pot and (if needed) burner for full boils.
 
I would suggest larger pot/ turkey fryer set up so you can do full boils and BIAB (brew in a bag) technique before going to a multi-vessel all grain set up. After that I would think about a stir plate, Erlenmeyer and stir bar for starters.

Brew in a bag? Still have lots to learn. Never heard of it.

Turkey fryers/large pots usually need a separate beat source right? I have a gas stove but it doesn't have a tiny of space above. Also somewhat limited outside bit I can probably make do once all the damn snow melts.
 
Of what you mentioned, I'd next go for an aeration system over more buckets. I think initially a new brewer should get his basics under control before adding more fermenters, things like wort chillers (which you have already) oxygen, and temp control are important to making good beer. Get those things taken care of, then expand the pipeline.
 
I think if you have all the equipment right now to brew an extract kit then I would go for temperature control. That is one of the most important things you need.
 
Temperature control made the largest difference in my beer. It was like night and day! Doesn't have to be all that expensive either. A craigslist mini fridge with controller and a big box made of pink foam and duct tape.
 
I vote for temperature control as well. It will help you make more consistent beer, and TASTIER beer. I found a used frig that holds 2 6gallon buckets on criagslist for $50.
Then got a temperature controller for about $35.
 
I use a gas stove which does well. For monitoring I have a dial thermometer

I believe that he's talking about controlling your fermentation temperatures.

+1 on that as your next upgrade. You can set up a great AG system, have a nice recipe, get excellent efficiency and all, but if you ferment it too warm, you will not have the kind of result you desire.

If you watch Craigslist carefully and are patient, you can get a decent freezer and set it up with an STC-1000 controller all for about $100.
 
On the cheap buy a big storage bin and an aqaurium heater. Will cost ~30-40 bucks
 
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So it is more than just buying something eh? I'm one of the least handy people on the planet. What are some easy projects people will put together for temp control?
 
So it is more than just buying something eh? I'm one of the least handy people on the planet. What are some easy projects people will put together for temp control?

You are correct. That STC-1000 option is the best value and works really well, but does require some very basic wiring and putting it into a small project box. You can spend more $$ and get a controller (either single or dual) that's plug & play if you prefer.

There are a wide variety of techniques used to try and control fermentation temps. Some are more effective and precise than others. Some require regular attention (like swapping out ice bottles).

Since temp control and consistency are considered by many to be second in importance (sanitization being #1) for good brewing, I went for the "set it and forget it" electronic option and am very happy that I did. If you think that you'll ever want to do lagers, this sort of setup is nice.
 
Fermentation temp control, as others have said, will have a large impact on quality. If you want to spend money, then a ferm chamber is the way to go. This time of year, though, you may be able to find a place in your home that's 65 degrees. If it were my money I'd get a larger brewpot, 7 gallons minimum. My current pot is 8 (40qt) and it boils over 5 gallon batches on an outdoor burner. You can still boil on a stovetop, many of us do and I occasionally will. There's a ton of options and avenues to go down with a next upgrade, and you'll probably end up with it all in the end anyway. Kyle
 

Thanks for posting this. I'm thinking about building a fermentation chamber out of a chest freezer and I'd like it to heat and cool as well. I'd like it to be a set it and forget about it type thing since the weather where I live can be 70 one day and then 30 the next. Is there a "safer" yet still somewhat inexpensive way to heat the freezer? The goal is to not have to heat my entire house for 9 hours while I'm at work just to keep the beer at a good temperature, but I'd also like to avoid starting a fire and burning my house down as well.
 
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I think the best gains for the new brewer is getting to all grain (as long as they have the time and space). The equipment needed is minimal and it lowers the cost of your beer and opens up a world of new items to play with (grains).

A 10 to 15 gallon pot with a ball valve and a 10 gallon cooler with a ball valve and stainless steel braid are all you need.
 
A lot of us use a cheap ebay temp controller like this.

That be da one.

Love it. Built two (I have two brew freezers, one of which is currently being made into a keezer). Got two brewing buddies to build the same.


Thanks for posting this. I'm thinking about building a fermentation chamber out of a chest freezer and I'd like it to heat and cool as well. I'd like it to be a set it and forget about it type thing since the weather where I live can be 70 one day and then 30 the next. Is there a "safer" yet still somewhat inexpensive way to heat the freezer? The goal is to not have to heat my entire house for 9 hours while I'm at work just to keep the beer at a good temperature, but I'd also like to avoid starting a fire and burning my house down as well.

Just be careful to well insulate your wires going into the paint can heater socket. How many 60-watt light bulbs do you have going in your house? One secured inside a paint can isn't going to present any additional hazard. If you like, a small ceramic heater inside the freezer is another option. Just make sure you get the kind that doesn't need the push of a button to turn it on when the plug activates.

I think the best gains for the new brewer is getting to all grain (as long as they have the time and space). The equipment needed is minimal and it lowers the cost of your beer and opens up a world of new items to play with (grains).

A 10 to 15 gallon pot with a ball valve and a 10 gallon cooler with a ball valve and stainless steel braid are all you need.

While I'm happy to have gone over to all grain (for the reasons stated plus it's really interesting), I still believe that getting good, solid fermentation temp control in place comes way ahead of making that leap.
 
I think the best gains for the new brewer is getting to all grain (as long as they have the time and space). The equipment needed is minimal and it lowers the cost of your beer and opens up a world of new items to play with (grains).

A 10 to 15 gallon pot with a ball valve and a 10 gallon cooler with a ball valve and stainless steel braid are all you need.

*sigh*

You know All grain isn't the be all and end all of brewing. Plenty of crappy beer is made all grain, just like plenty of award winning beers have been made with extract. Most of us in this hobby are grown up enough to realize that one method is no better or worse than the other. It's not whether it's all grainor extract that makes good beer, it's being a good brewer.

And it's just silly and plain tiring to see this stuff. Not every extract brewer wants nor desires to go to AG, just like not every bottler dreams of kegging, or every homebrewer dreams of going pro.

Oy vey...
 
*sigh*

You know All grain isn't the be all and end all of brewing. Plenty of crappy beer is made all grain, just like plenty of award winning beers have been made with extract. Most of us in this hobby are grown up enough to realize that one method is no better or worse than the other. It's not whether it's all grainor extract that makes good beer, it's being a good brewer.

And it's just silly and plain tiring to see this stuff. Not every extract brewer wants nor desires to go to AG, just like not every bottler dreams of kegging, or every homebrewer dreams of going pro.

Oy vey...

Amen to that.

The only reason I even remotely considered mashing and sparging at this point in my brewing journey is that I have a cool brewing mentor that lives about 4 blocks away who is patient enough to coach me through the steps (that, and I had an extra cooler sitting unused in the attic). He still does extract batches as will I (the one in my fermenter right now is extract ESB).

Some of the best advice I got before ever brewing my first batch (besides using Star-San) was to run the ferment correctly - control the temp, in a clean dark place, and give it the time it needs. I like to think that it's stuff like that (and a desire to learn) which makes you a better brewer.
 
*sigh*

You know All grain isn't the be all and end all of brewing. Plenty of crappy beer is made all grain, just like plenty of award winning beers have been made with extract. Most of us in this hobby are grown up enough to realize that one method is no better or worse than the other. It's not whether it's all grainor extract that makes good beer, it's being a good brewer.

And it's just silly and plain tiring to see this stuff. Not every extract brewer wants nor desires to go to AG, just like not every bottler dreams of kegging, or every homebrewer dreams of going pro.

Oy vey...

It is still my opinion. I wish I would have gone all grain sooner, so I posted what I would buy next in his situation. It's plain silly to assume that my endorsement of going all grain means that staying extract is somehow inferior. That stereo type is just as bad as the one your railing against. I would never tell an extract brewer that the beers they produce are inferior. There is no need to read into it as an attack on extract brewers. As long as they enjoy their beer and they enjoy their process they are doing it right.

I simply think all grain is more fun and my reasoning (cost and more toys to play with) is pretty sound. It adds more complexity to the brewing process which could increase enjoyment of brewing (if your like me and into the process). This added complexity will require education and research, this will make a more informed brewer. This will help you become a better brewer. Extract costs more than grain, so by lowering your cost per beer you might be able to brew more. I believe in the beginning, the act of brewing improves your ability to brew. Can you be a great extract brewer? Without a doubt yes. Can you brew extract beer that trumps my all grain beer? Without a doubt yes.

I mentioned my opinion because the OP mentioned he wants to go all grain soon. My post was to encourage taking that step. If the OP was to stay extract, my next recommendation would be a pot large enough for full boils. At the very least this will improve his extract beers and give him a large enough pot for when he decides to go all grain (as stated in the OP). Hell he could get a large pot for full boils and a mesh bag and have the option to do both via BIAB. It's a low cost, low tech, low work improvement to the process.

I do agree that controlling your temps is vital to getting constant, good beer. I also agree it is worth it to build a fermentation chamber to control those temps. I just don't think you should go there right away. I myself am just now looking at a system for controlling temps so I can brew lagers. I have not felt the need for any temp control until now because of the wonderfully constant and low temps my basement provides (around 60F in the summer).
 
I think the best gains for the new brewer is getting to all grain (as long as they have the time and space). The equipment needed is minimal and it lowers the cost of your beer and opens up a world of new items to play with (grains).

A 10 to 15 gallon pot with a ball valve and a 10 gallon cooler with a ball valve and stainless steel braid are all you need.
*sigh*
[snipped for space]

And it's just silly and plain tiring to see this stuff. Not every extract brewer wants nor desires to go to AG, just like not every bottler dreams of kegging, or every homebrewer dreams of going pro.

Oy vey...

As much as I agree with you Revvy, the OP did mention going all grain in another 3-4 batches, so at least the second half of DonMagee's post was not completely out of line. It was as least as helpful as the "Go with BIAB" reply #1.

I still believe that getting good, solid fermentation temp control in place comes way ahead of making that leap.

This is exactly where I would spend the money, as I feel it would be the most useful right away and long term.

Yes, the OP will need a larger pot when they finally go all grain or even full boil extract, but that may be another 3-4 batches like he said, or it may be a number of batches down the road. Regardless of when/if they go all grain, they will still get the benefit of fermentation temperature control while continuing to make batches with extract.

After temp control, I would probably go with the simple equipment to make yeast starters, just because it is inexpensive and helps to make better beer. You can make a starter with a jar/bottle sitting on the kitchen counter and swirling it every so often. It doesn't work as well as a stir plate, but it is usually better than simply pitching a single vial/smack pack. Stir plates are fairly easy to DIY as well.
 
*sigh*

You know All grain isn't the be all and end all of brewing. Plenty of crappy beer is made all grain, just like plenty of award winning beers have been made with extract. Most of us in this hobby are grown up enough to realize that one method is no better or worse than the other. It's not whether it's all grainor extract that makes good beer, it's being a good brewer.

And it's just silly and plain tiring to see this stuff. Not every extract brewer wants nor desires to go to AG, just like not every bottler dreams of kegging, or every homebrewer dreams of going pro.

Oy vey...

You are right that AG is not the end all be all of brewing, but it does have benefits that extract does not. You have to mash grains to get to the point that you can adjust the fermentability of your wort. I tend to like highly attenuated beers, and extract just does not give you the ability to control the process to this level. Are there great extract brews? Of course! Are there really bad all grain brews? Certainly! But learning to brew with grain gives a brewer the ability to control so many more variables (and to make so many other adjustments to the grain bill) that it is a valuable skill to have.
 
Hey all, definitely coming to realize that temp control could be an issue for myself - I have a pretty stable spot where I ferment (bathroom tub in finished basement hat has baseboard heating and thermostat temp control) but its not manipulate-able.

I see a lot of talk of using chest freezers as fermentation chambers - I'm not all that handy, but my question is how are you able to manipulate temperatures there other than "cold"? My experience is most don't have digital temperature control nor would I think most have the ability to keep something at, say, a consistent 66 degrees - isn't the idea of those to provide refirgeration and/or freezing temperatures?

I'd love to be educated on this as I'd definitely make an investment in something thats going to give me that consistency!

Thanks!!
 
Hey all, definitely coming to realize that temp control could be an issue for myself - I have a pretty stable spot where I ferment (bathroom tub in finished basement hat has baseboard heating and thermostat temp control) but its not manipulate-able.

I see a lot of talk of using chest freezers as fermentation chambers - I'm not all that handy, but my question is how are you able to manipulate temperatures there other than "cold"? My experience is most don't have digital temperature control nor would I think most have the ability to keep something at, say, a consistent 66 degrees - isn't the idea of those to provide refirgeration and/or freezing temperatures?

I'd love to be educated on this as I'd definitely make an investment in something thats going to give me that consistency!

Thanks!!

If you are not handy, you buy a Johnson Controller from any online brew store. You plug that into the wall and then plug the freezer into the controller (like a power strip). The controller has a thermometer probe that goes into the freezer, and it shuts off power to the freezer when it reaches a proper temperature.
 
You are right that AG is not the end all be all of brewing, but it does have benefits that extract does not. You have to mash grains to get to the point that you can adjust the fermentability of your wort. I tend to like highly attenuated beers, and extract just does not give you the ability to control the process to this level. Are there great extract brews? Of course! Are there really bad all grain brews? Certainly! But learning to brew with grain gives a brewer the ability to control so many more variables (and to make so many other adjustments to the grain bill) that it is a valuable skill to have.

You are right that extract is not the end all be all of brewing, but it does have benefits that AG does not. You don't have to mash grains to get to the point that you can adjust the fermentability of your wort. I tend not to like highly attenuated beers, and extract just does not require me to control the process to this level. Are there great extract brews? Of course! Are there really bad all grain brews? Certainly! But learning to brew with grain requires a brewer to control so many more variables (and to make so many other adjustments to the grain bill) that it is a pointless skill to have.

To each his own I say :mug:
 
You are right that extract is not the end all be all of brewing, but it does have benefits that AG does not. You don't have to mash grains to get to the point that you can adjust the fermentability of your wort. I tend not to like highly attenuated beers, and extract just does not require me to control the process to this level. Are there great extract brews? Of course! Are there really bad all grain brews? Certainly! But learning to brew with grain requires a brewer to control so many more variables (and to make so many other adjustments to the grain bill) that it is a pointless skill to have.

To each his own I say :mug:

I agree wholeheartedly. I was simply responding to the knee-jerk anti-all-grain reaction that some people have. My point was simply that having the ability to brew all grain has benefits even if you decide that extract brewing is fine for most purposes. :mug:

EDIT -- It's kind of like cooking. I would never try to make homemade macaroni and cheese because I like Kraft Mac N' Cheese better than anything I have made. But, there are certainly some kinds of food that I would prefer to make from scratch so that I have more control over the ingredients. I don't begrudge people who choose to buy premade versions of these foods, but I think we should not discourage people from trying to make it themselves.
 
If you are not handy, you buy a Johnson Controller from any online brew store. You plug that into the wall and then plug the freezer into the controller (like a power strip). The controller has a thermometer probe that goes into the freezer, and it shuts off power to the freezer when it reaches a proper temperature.


Thanks for the response.

If I understand this correctly, though, "reaching a proper temperature" would still require the freezer to have the capacity to be somewhat "warm", right? How does that work?

I.e., I get my wort to ~66 degrees, I transfer to my primary and now put in my "chamber" - how does the freezer keep that 66 degree environment other than just not being on and then again being a slave to room temperature (which is what I currently utilize, being lucky enough to have space in a finished basement to use).
 
Thanks for the response.

If I understand this correctly, though, "reaching a proper temperature" would still require the freezer to have the capacity to be somewhat "warm", right? How does that work?

I.e., I get my wort to ~66 degrees, I transfer to my primary and now put in my "chamber" - how does the freezer keep that 66 degree environment other than just not being on and then again being a slave to room temperature (which is what I currently utilize, being lucky enough to have space in a finished basement to use).

Assuming room temperature is above 66 degrees (which I will for this post), the controller simply shuts off the power to the freezer when it gets a degree (or so) below the preset temp. It is simply overriding the temperature settings of the freezer by cutting the power intermittently to keep the freezer from cooling the wort below the temperature you set on the controller.
 
Assuming room temperature is above 66 degrees (which I will for this post), the controller simply shuts off the power to the freezer when it gets a degree (or so) below the preset temp. It is simply overriding the temperature settings of the freezer by cutting the power intermittently to keep the freezer from cooling the wort below the temperature you set on the controller.

In other words, the optimal process here is setting up your "chamber" (freezer) in a temperature controlled room of ~70 degrees and after chilling the wort to your fermentation temperature and sealing the primary, placing it in the "freezer" (which is really just a room temperature sealed chamber, not really a "freezer" persay) and using the controller to ensure the chamber stays at a consistent temperature.

I guess my question is what happens if the chamber, for whatever reason, drops below the desired temperature on the controller? There's no "warming" mechanism is there?
 
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