Newbie thoughts after four months

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eujamfh

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I have been gleaning info from this site and members for a while. When the decision to start brewing was final and I was committed to the new obsession, I became even more reliant on this site. As such, I though I would contribute back to those (like me) that are reading posts and wondering about all the unknowns. Below is just a simple punch list that I have relayed to another friend who is about three months behind me in the brewing hobby. These are just my observations and I hope someone finds my ramblings useful.

1. COST. If you remove equipment and time, home brewing is cheaper then buying beer. The bigger the beer, the more savings compared to buying bottles. BUT…equipment can get costly and you will find yourself buying lots of craft beer to taste to see if you want to eventually brew it. For me, I say it is a push with respect to cost because I enjoy brewing. Also, I can brew beers that run $8-16 a six pack for much less. Granted if you look at the totality of the cost I am not "saving" compared to buying those beers in the store, but it seems a lot cheap since I am not forking out that much money for a six pack (which I had a hard time doing in the past). Over time, amortizing the equipment costs will mean in a year or so (according to my calculations) the costs will be truly lower and only my time will be the comparison for whether I am saving money. Greenbacks out of my wallet will definitely be decreased…but again that is ONLY after time.

2A. EQUIPMENT. Truly consider what you want to do in this hobby and buy the gear you can grow into (assuming you are in a financial position to dump your investment on the front end). I watched many friends grow into the hobby buying bits and pieces as they went from Mr beer, to extract and eventually all grain. If you are pretty certain you will end up in all grain, start hunting for USED AG gear. Where I live brewing gear goes fast on CL but if you take the time (took a couple months for me) you may get lucky. Like all CL sales…know what you want, what you will pay and when it is available, jump on it. You can pay .30 - .70 cents on the dollar compared to new.

2B. BOTTLES/KEGS. I went right to kegs. I looked at most HBers and a solid majority eventually keg with the exception of bottling for gifts and competition. I think many HBers start with bottled then move to kegs. For me I know I will not be in competitions anytime soon. I BBQ alot and love it (another passion) and have zero interest in competitions. For me, when friends and family come to visit and I hask them what they want and they list my BBQ items as what they want….thats the ribbon I am looking for. I figure same will apply to beer. I can see that bottling for gifts would be a huge plus. BUT, since I have very few folks I want to willing give me beer to I plan to loan growlers to them. Keeps my processing line easier and less work kegging compared to bottling. I do know I will eventually want to bottle just because its such a large part of the hobby..but for me, kegging was one process that I could make easier on the front end. Down side to this…much more up front cost. I have around 15 cornies, three regulators, an eight way diverter and a bucket of keg parts. None were free, but from CL I got a decent deal. And there is some time involved in keg maintenance…not huge, but definitely when you acquire a bunch used. I suspect once they are "mine" and I have gone over them from head to toe..the maintenance will become much less frequent.

3. EXTRACT/AG/KITS. Start with extract kits at first…let others do the measuring and calulations for you so you can concentrate on the process. Find someone that has done AG and do whatever you need to do to have them help you the first AG session (and use a AG kit). You can read as much as you like on the web and in books but it is helpful to have someone talk you through things the first time out of the gate. Its little things that can save you pain that another brewer can help boost your learning curve.

4. STARTERS AND O2. Starters are not required but they help. O2 systems are also not required…but that has definitely helped my fermentation start much sooner then my friends who do not use O2.

5A. LHBS. You can usually find things cheaper online. BUT like any hobby, having a local place to go when you are in a pinch is extremely useful. I buy online but also give a portion of my business to the LHBS. I get my yeast and bulk grains from them and at least 2-3 batches worth of specialty grain when I pick up the bulk. In some cases (hops) my LHBS was actually cheaper on some varieties. I last picked up about four pounds of hops and he was only $5 more then the cheapest place online (at the time I bought). Shop around but give the LHBS a shot.

5B. ORDERING FROM OTHER LHBS. If you need a certain yeast, ingredient etc and the LHBS does not carry it, try the LHBS in the next town over. Both stores close (relative) do not carry wyeast. Anyways the cost was a bit more then Austin or More Beer but the small other LHBS could get it to me in a day. You can sply watch local weather for the temp and order on the day before the coolest day. Faster delivery and keeping someone else's LHBS afloat.

6. MESSING UP. It will happen and unless it is poor sanitation, your mistakes will simply create a beer that may or may not be different from what you were targeting. Missing temps, times, OGs, H2O amounts, when to hop (my latest mistake) all end up with beer and for the most part I have found it to still be good if not great beer.

7. TIME. Repeating what is said many times here…give your beer time before drinking. I had one IIPA that was horrible tasting after about five weeks…pretty much not drinkable. We sampled it for two weeks, every other day to see what it would do. The day I brewed a wind storm kicked up as I was chilling the wort AND my pump died. It was a 10G batch so lifting it into a sink (which was too small for the vessel anyways) was not an option. Chilling took well over an hour as I fixed my pump problem and all sorts of crap landed in the wort ( I did cover it but the damage had been done in a couple minutes. After a month and a half or so the beer started coming around. I have about two gallons left of that beer and it is a solid IIPA - it just needed time.

8. BULK PURCHASES. For hops and base grains it is worth the effort if you can find storage space. For me it dropped the price for most 5G batches by about $10.

9. YEAST HARVESTING. It is EASY and saves you (some) money. It also gives you a stronger fermentation. It does take some time (not hours but time) and like the rest of this hobby requires some gear (which you likely have in the house already) and space to store the yeast in a fridge. I even wash my S05 because tI find my fermentation is so much stronger (faster start and finish) when I use slurry. It does not save my lots of money…but I like the result.

10. KEEZER. Shop the scratch and dent sales at the big box stores. I was able to get a 14cu ft new freezer for $200. Used is an option as well, but since most folks for that size freezer paid retail (say $400) they are typically selling them (in my area) for $200 and they will be 2-8 years old. I ended up painting my white freezer black and a little bondo on the ding areas which made those dings disappear. A collar or towers is a preference. I went with towers (to keep dog, kids and drunk friends from whacking the tap handles when they walk by) and am glad I did. I can easily move the keezer when full since I mounted the base on heavy duty casters from Harbor Freight. All said and done, including wood, paint, towers, lines and freezer, the keezer was about $700. Not cheap, but exactly what I wanted with top end bits. Took two weeks to make during which I used picnic taps to serve my beer.

11. GLASS ITEMS. They break. Even when you are careful. Take things slow to minimize what you break but know murphy is always lurking and will visit you when least expected.

12. CO2 TANKS. Bigger is better if you have the space. For me I have two 20lb tanks and am pleased. One tank in the keezer and the other in the brew room to burp kegs when filled. I had two 5lb tanks and was able to trade them in with a local gas supply house. They gave me $70 credit (each) for my aluminum tanks which I applied towards the $120 aluminum tanks. For me, refills or exchanges for 5lb tanks are $22. The 20lbs are only $26. Also, if you get in a rotation there is a good chance the day you exchange they may not have aluminum 5lbs…you are almost certain they will have 20lbs in stock.

13. ENJOYMENT. Not only will you enjoy things, but so will anyone who enters your home who likes beer. You will have more visits from friends and family. If you do not want more friends or visits from family….keep your new hobby a secret.
 
Mostly sounds about right. The only thing I would say about your equipment advise is that you can start small and super cheap and still make very good beer. After 7-8 months brewing, I still am not sure I will go AG, so buying that gear on the front end would not help. Your advise on starting with extract brews is great, as it will help get much of the process down cold and provide a base understanding brewing, etc. Good post.
 
I agree man. I did 2 batches of extract and got the itch to do more. I did 1 partial mash batch and wasn't satisfied. Then I took the leap into all grain and haven't looked back since. It was rough on my wallet to get the new equipment but entirely worth it! My first 2 batches sucked because I didn't have anyone to teach me, but with the knowledge gained from the users here and all across the net, I was able to start making excellent beers.

This would be good for brewing noobs to read so they know what they're getting into!
 
Pretty good post. I think it's good to start with extract kits just to start getting a good process down for brewday. Not to mention bottling. I'm still using the same kettle now for partial boil/partial mash BIAB that I did extracts with. I just added a cake cooler rack in the bottom of the BK/MT to keep the paint strainer bag of grains off the bottom of the kettle so they don't burn.
I use a floating thermometer in the mash to monitor temps. And a dial type thermometer in the kettle I heat the sparge water in.
One of those lever type tools for removing ale pail lids is a Godsend too. Makes getting the lids off way easier. And of course long plastic spoons & paddles for stiring mashes & worts. A large dual layer fine mesh strainer comes in handy as well. I pour chilled wort & top off water through it in a circular motion to aerate. Works well,not to mention getting less gunk in the fermenter. I get less compacted trub/yeast doing this. More beer for me.
 
The original thread had 13 paragraphs. As I add thoughts, I will add paras or make them a,b,c etc
 

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