New BIAB brewer and set up

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golfgod04

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So I've been homebrewing for over a year now. I've only been doing partial mashes on my gas stove top (Ive been doing very well in competitions lately). When I started brewing, I started to on a shoestring budget. I bought a cheap 5 gallon stock pot. It's worked great for me but the pot is becoming very thing and needs to be trashed. So, I still dont have much money to spend. My problem is I've already ordered my next partial mash and need a new pot. Im hoping to borrow a pot from a friend for this last batch and then I think switch to BIAB. I live in MA and electricity costs so much money and I really do enjoy brewing on my gas stove top. I don't think my stove could handle the weight of an 7.5 or 8 gallon pot with all that water (I do have a nice gas stove with a giant burner specifically for large stock pots). So after much debate, I think im going BIAB with a propane burner. My problem is, can I do that for around $100? I have a very limited budget.
Here's what I am thinking

Brew Kettle:
40 Quart Stock Pot for $69.65 with lid
I would prefer a pot like this but once you add the accessories, its over $100 Is there a similar alternative?:
SS Pot with 2 Weld for $106.96 (includes ball valve and thermometer I can't find another brew kettle that is similar with the features for less money.

Burner:
Bayou SP10 Burner for $49.97

Bag:
Wislerbrew biab bag

Is there any way to do this for less money or better equipment for the same money? I know I should get a 10 gallon brew kettle but cant find anything better. Thanks in advance for any recommendations
 
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Save your pennies for a few months and get what you want. The pot with ball valve will make it easier. If you buy what you can afford now vs going for a pot that's a bit more you may regret later. Ive bought a several things trying to be cheap and always buy what I really wanted later spending more at the end. I'm sure others may have more specific options on specific products, but take your time and get the best you can afford so you won't regret going cheap in the future.
 
I bought a very lightly used SS Brewtech kettle (10 gals, thermometer, 3 piece valve) for half its original price.
If you're on a budget, check your local craigslist, local homebrew groups, and LHBS for used equipment. If I hadn't found the used kettle, I'd still be boiling in a 5 gallon pot I bought my wife. The mixing of spaghetti sauce flavors and beer flavors would be interesting.
 
I use a 30qt turkey fryer set-up similar to this with a Wilserbag and brew 3.25G BIAB batches. Also check out concord stock pots on ebay.
 
If your on a tight budget, Craigslist can provide some really good deals if you are patient.

IMO, no valve and racking out of the kettle is not a huge deal breaker.
 
im just gonna be patient and pray I can borrow a friends kettle to brew this last batch as a partial brewer
 
wilserbrewer said:
If your on a tight budget, Craigslist can provide some really good deals if you are patient.

IMO, no valve and racking out of the kettle is not a huge deal breaker.
Click to expand...

what do you use instead of valve? do you just use a siphon tube from the side of the kettle?
 
golfgod04 said:
what do you use instead of valve? do you just use a siphon tube from the side of the kettle?
Click to expand...

I rack from the kettle to serving keg after fermentation with a standard racking cane and tubing..in the old days many didn't have the luxury of a kettle valve, and the auto siphon didn't exist, so homebrewers learned to be proficient with a standard racking cane, they work wonderfully once you develop a technique.

 
TorMag said:
You are fermenting in your kettle?
Click to expand...


Yes, been doing it for a few years and I am happy with the results and ease of process.

I keep the lid on the kettle, and seal it with a sheet of plastic with a string wrapped several times around the kettle.

Since it is an "open" fermentation of sorts, yet still pretty darn well sealed, I limit the time spent to 7-10 days, then rack to a keg for secondary cellaring / serving.

You don't need an airlock for primary fermentation IMO, just a reasonably sealed vessel is fine due to the production of co2.

I would not let a beer sit for weeks in this configuration.
 
wilserbrewer said:
Yes, been doing it for a few years and I am happy with the results and ease of process.

I keep the lid on the kettle, and seal it with a sheet of plastic with a string wrapped several times around the kettle.

Since it is an "open" fermentation of sorts, yet still pretty darn well sealed, I limit the time spent to 7-10 days, then rack to a keg for secondary cellaring / serving.

You don't need an airlock for primary fermentation IMO, just a reasonably sealed vessel is fine due to the production of co2.

I would not let a beer sit for weeks in this configuration.
Click to expand...

That's brilliant! BIAB is already simplified and that just takes it one step simpler That probably takes even more time off your brew day..
 
Yes, it does...
Handy to have more than one kettle. So once racked to keg, another batch can be pitched directly using yeast slurry from the fermented batch. I use a large kitchen ladle to collect yeast from the kettle / fermenter.

Pitch it or store in sanitized quart jars in the fridge.

It is similar in concept to a BIAC, brew in a conical single vessel system, except the yeast and trub stay on the bottom vs having the ability to drain.
 
wilserbrewer said:
Yes, it does...
Handy to have more than one kettle. So once racked to keg, another batch can be pitched directly using yeast slurry from the fermented batch. I use a large kitchen ladle to collect yeast from the kettle / fermenter.

Pitch it or store in sanitized quart jars in the fridge.

It is similar in concept to a BIAC, brew in a conical single vessel system, except the yeast and trub stay on the bottom vs having the ability to drain.
Click to expand...

Sorry GolfGod, I know I am hijacking your thread at this point......

I see another bag in my future for my smaller kettle. Fermenting in the kettle would be perfect for SMaSH brewing.
 
Scroll ebay as well, sometimes you can find some killer deals on used equipment. I just bought a SS 50 ft immersion chiller for 10 dollars with free shipping, so its hit and miss.
 
golfgod04 said:
So I've been homebrewing for over a year now. I've only been doing partial mashes on my gas stove top (Ive been doing very well in competitions lately). When I started brewing, I started to on a shoestring budget. I bought a cheap 5 gallon stock pot. It's worked great for me but the pot is becoming very thing and needs to be trashed. So, I still dont have much money to spend. My problem is I've already ordered my next partial mash and need a new pot. Im hoping to borrow a pot from a friend for this last batch and then I think switch to BIAB. I live in MA and electricity costs so much money and I really do enjoy brewing on my gas stove top. I don't think my stove could handle the weight of an 7.5 or 8 gallon pot with all that water (I do have a nice gas stove with a giant burner specifically for large stock pots). So after much debate, I think im going BIAB with a propane burner. My problem is, can I do that for around $100? I have a very limited budget.
Here's what I am thinking

Brew Kettle:
40 Quart Stock Pot for $69.65 with lid
I would prefer a pot like this but once you add the accessories, its over $100 Is there a similar alternative?:
SS Pot with 2 Weld for $106.96 (includes ball valve and thermometer I can't find another brew kettle that is similar with the features for less money.

Burner:
Bayou SP10 Burner for $49.97

Bag:
Wislerbrew biab bag

Is there any way to do this for less money or better equipment for the same money? I know I should get a 10 gallon brew kettle but cant find anything better. Thanks in advance for any recommendations
Click to expand...

Also here is a cheaper set up. An indunction stove cooktop with a SS brewpot that is 304 SS I believe, which ever one is magnetic. Don't have to use any control mods, no propane refilling, brew inside during winters(key for me living in Maine). Someone on ebay is selling 39 qt stock pots with the thermo and valve already attached for 110 dollars that works with induction stoves. Induction stove 49 dollars from amazon.
 
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I dont want to use induction, electricity is too expensive here. I love brewing on my stove but know I need to change for all grain.
 
golfgod04 said:
I dont want to use induction, electricity is too expensive here. I love brewing on my stove but know I need to change for all grain.
Click to expand...

Electricity may be expensive where you live, but have you actually calculated the costs and compared them? Electricity would have to be stupid expensive, and I mean crazy stupid, to cost the same as a propane brew day.

Read through Kal's explanation (linked below), do some maths, and let us know what the results are.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/FAQ#What_are_the_electrical_costs_to_brew_with_electricity_
 
The most expensive electricity is cheaper than propane by a significant fraction of an order of magnitude. I always advise if on a budget to invest in a Spa Panel and a element.. it's about the price of a mid range burner and is always cheaper and easier and safer to run.

However, really if you are going to be serious about BIAB, save up for a 15 gallon kettle. (10 gallons minimum, but 15 is so much better)... or find a used keg from somewhere and fabricate something up. The most true false economy in brewing is starting off with a smaller kettle. Because you will eventually buy a bigger one.

I ended up doing a full eBIAB system with a commercial bag and a Chugger for less than $500 but it was a lot of work on my part. So it's possible to have a "fancy" system on a budget if you are thrift and persistent.

As for adding a valve: an $8 set of step bits from Harbor Freight and $10 off of e-bay/China will hook you up later with it and it will be where YOU want it. So racking from the pot or carefully dumping (think funnel on the other end) is okay if you go slow.
 
UndeadFred said:
The most expensive electricity is cheaper than propane by a significant fraction of an order of magnitude. I always advise if on a budget to invest in a Spa Panel and a element.. it's about the price of a mid range burner and is always cheaper and easier and safer to run.

However, really if you are going to be serious about BIAB, save up for a 15 gallon kettle. (10 gallons minimum, but 15 is so much better)... or find a used keg from somewhere and fabricate something up. The most true false economy in brewing is starting off with a smaller kettle. Because you will eventually buy a bigger one.

I ended up doing a full eBIAB system with a commercial bag and a Chugger for less than $500 but it was a lot of work on my part. So it's possible to have a "fancy" system on a budget if you are thrift and persistent.

As for adding a valve: an $8 set of step bits from Harbor Freight and $10 off of e-bay/China will hook you up later with it and it will be where YOU want it. So racking from the pot or carefully dumping (think funnel on the other end) is okay if you go slow.
Click to expand...

I would love to get my BIAB moved indoors. Would be great to be able to brew when SWMBO goes to bed. How cheaply can you get an eBIAB set up going?
 
I guess it depends the route you take. There are really expensive set ups like Blichmann with the boil coil and power console. Yes, its more expensive but of course its top quality products. You could use induction stoves for brewing if you have 304 SS kettles. You could also make your own heat rod or coil. There is quite alot of options now for E brewing. So it can definitely be done on a budget it just takes some thinking on what you want to get out of your brew set up.
 
TexasWine said:
Electricity may be expensive where you live, but have you actually calculated the costs and compared them? Electricity would have to be stupid expensive, and I mean crazy stupid, to cost the same as a propane brew day.

Read through Kal's explanation (linked below), do some maths, and let us know what the results are.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/FAQ#What_are_the_electrical_costs_to_brew_with_electricity_
Click to expand...

I have not done the calculations. Im just used to brewing on my stove top with natural gasm with range hood above,which costs me pennies to brew. I shouldve said the comparison from gas to electricity would be a lot higher to me. Im even more confused than ever where to go from partial mash brewing to go up to all grain. It just sucks brewing on a budget. Right now I use a stove, a pot I got from $30 bucks and a friends old immersion wort chiller. So I was hoping to switch to all grain for around $125 by getting a new pot (my current pot is too cheap/flimsy to make any more beer on and I already have my ingredients for my next brew im trying to get ready for the 4th of July) and a burner.
 
I made the switch to all grain after only a few brews. It just interested me more so I wanted to do it. Of course there is an expense with it as most set ups us a HTL, MTL, then Kettle. I started all grain with BIAB though. Its a really good way to get into all grain to understand the process of it and get used to the temp ranges you'll be dealing with. I started BIAB out with a 5 gallon SS kettle, one of the bags from northern brewer. I didn't even have a immersion chiller, and the brews still came out good. So its not always the equipment that makes the brew, its just the care you put into it. I made the switch by making a MLT myself from a Igloo 10 gallon cooler. Target had them on sale for 40 dollars. Used that and a thread on HBT on how to convert it into a ball lock set up with a home made bazooka screen basically. I've replaced with a false bottom since but it worked just fine originally as well. The parts for that cost me 27 dollars, so I ended up spending 67 dollars on a 10 gal MTL which is not bad at all. That pretty much does my all grain brewing. You just need a strike kettle to boil to temp, and to be honest you could use your strike kettle as the same as the boiling kettle. The only convenience of having 2 separate ones is not having to move them around and just have a brew stand or something with 3 different levels. And to best honest I do that myself. I just use a pump to help navigate the wort back up into the kettle and never had issues. I as well am on a budget so I had to get some of the pieces over time and just dealt with what I had.
 
Well for 5 gallons? You can probably find an old keg somewhere for $50, you can find a normal based element for $10 if you look (I use a $9 closeout, but I had food grade paint left over from a project years before to keep the base from rusting. $25 for a brass based one otherwise), $60 for a spa panel, $25 for a phase control dimmer (SSVR) and a potentiometer. That is about as cheap as you can go and have a safe system. Adding a PID and SSR and a RTD sensor is another $60 or so and a ball valve is $10 to $15. A commercial bag is about $20, but you can literally make one for $1.50.
 
- 60 quart pot: $56.99 http://www.webstaurantstore.com/60-qt-standard-weight-aluminum-stock-pot/40760385.html
- Lid for pot probably another $12 or so.
- Hot Pod from Brew Hardware: $26 http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm
-2000 watt SS element: $19 https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element1500_short.htm
-Wire and plug for installing the element ~$8

So for a grand total of $125 to $130 you can have an electric brew kettle. No absolute need for a PID or a pump. Heat the water up, add your grain, insulate, wait a while, pull the grain out, boil. The 2000 watt element will be perfect for boiling anything from 3 gallons to 7 gallons. If you use an aluminum kettle you might need to insulate your kettle to boil the larger volumes (with a sleeping bag, blanket, or something else). I boil 7 gallons @ 1800 watts easily, and with a bare 62 quart kettle.
 
I agree with TW above, except I would suggest a 10-12 gallon kettle to keep the surface area low considering the "low" wattage element.

GFI outlet $12

Concord 40 or 50 qt stainless w/ lid $65 - $75 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Pol...hash=item20fd189049:m:mpPuevxvxy2IzMuXj4gs9ow

The brewhardware hot rod is worth a look as well IMO, eliminates any drilling of the kettle, and gives you the ability to heat different vessels, and also heat and stir a mash directly if you need to raise the temp a little bit...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm
 
TexasWine said:
- 60 quart pot: $56.99 http://www.webstaurantstore.com/60-qt-standard-weight-aluminum-stock-pot/40760385.html
- Lid for pot probably another $12 or so.
- Hot Pod from Brew Hardware: $26 http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm
-2000 watt SS element: $19 https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element1500_short.htm
-Wire and plug for installing the element ~$8

So for a grand total of $125 to $130 you can have an electric brew kettle. No absolute need for a PID or a pump. Heat the water up, add your grain, insulate, wait a while, pull the grain out, boil. The 2000 watt element will be perfect for boiling anything from 3 gallons to 7 gallons. If you use an aluminum kettle you might need to insulate your kettle to boil the larger volumes (with a sleeping bag, blanket, or something else). I boil 7 gallons @ 1800 watts easily, and with a bare 62 quart kettle.
Click to expand...

wilserbrewer said:
I agree with TW above, except I would suggest a 10-12 gallon kettle to keep the surface area low considering the "low" wattage element.

GFI outlet $12

Concord 40 or 50 qt stainless w/ lid $65 - $75 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Pol...hash=item20fd189049:m:mpPuevxvxy2IzMuXj4gs9ow

The brewhardware hot rod is worth a look as well IMO, eliminates any drilling of the kettle, and gives you the ability to heat different vessels, and also heat and stir a mash directly if you need to raise the temp a little bit...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm
Click to expand...


Great advice here. It's pretty much the advice I was given and it's worked very well for me.
I purchased this 10 gallon alum kettle on Amazon and love it.
Bite the bullet and get the lid for it.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CHKL68/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I also went with the Hot Rod brewstick and installed a $10 2500 heating element I purchased at Home Depot. I had gfi, plug and wire, but I believe Brewers Hardware offers the option to install element, plug and wire...ready to go.
And of course you can't go wrong with a Wilser bag. Be kind to your wallet and buy a good bag from the get go. You'll save money and Wilser has sells all the time so be on the lookout for those!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks guys. Allready have the Wilser bag, 50 q concord kettle with lid. Will have to look into the rest.
 
One other option I considered but decided against because I could do it the "right way" was, if you have access to a panel, put in two elements in kettle, two 20A breakers on each side of the neutral (different hots) and two GFCI's. That would get you 4 KW which is enough for 8 gallon boil easily. You could put a boil control on one (SSVR or a "router speed control" from Harbor Freight) and unplug the other when holding a mash temp, or likely even a boil. This probably can be done very cheaply as a couple of 20A 115V GFCI's would be $20, a couple of breakers would be $15-20, and that router speed controller is $15 when on sale with a 20% off coupon. That the pot, a bag and a thermometer would be adequate. So $50 for a used keg, and $55 for the rest plus $20 for a bag is about $125.

The only downside to this is if you did decide to PID temperature control at a later time you might need two SSR's, one on each hot/element, though one and the other half being a SSVR (phase control dimmer, router speed controller, etc.) is likely to work also.
 

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