New at brewing

[Angelus1752]

So I’m currently doing two one gallon jugs of mead first time ever I get natural honey pretty much straight from the hives. So trying to put it to use. I’ll tell my process then ask my question so here we go. I clean both jugs pretty good as well as my funnel and measuring cups and soons. I measured out 4 lbs of honey for 1 gallon jug. I boiled tap water and added honey since it was crystallized I understand I didn’t need to do so now cuz of the flavor loss and all that. So I let cool to roughly 60 degrees then I prepared my yeast and then added it to my honey water mix I then poured into by funnel my jugs and capped it and shock each jug 2-3 minutes. I then added yeast nutrient threw another funnel 1 tsp or tbp what ever the package said. They say for a week maybe a week and a half and they are no longer bubbling. My question is should they not still be bubbling for at least three weeks to a month for good measure. Also what should I do can I add more yeast or more nutrient is to much to much? I used one packet each per detections. Will taking the cork and airlock our to add anything ruin my batches? Not sure what to do here they have been sitting in my house on my kitchen table at roughly 60-65 degrees.

 

[CKuhns]

" I clean both jugs pretty good as well as my funnel and measuring cups and soons"

Good plan, consider sanitizing the equipment in the future. Use something like Star San (No rinse required) or a mild bleach solution rinse with clean water. Nothing to be worried about as a good clean a great step and sanitation although important shouldnt be overly concerning. The sanitizer just kills any wild yeast or bacteria lurking about.

"I measured out 4 lbs of honey for 1 gallon jug."

Four pounds is in the ballpark but a lot for your first run at this, it will take some care and feeding. You will want to add additional nutrients. Look up TOSNA 2.0 or search for Staggered Nutrient Additiions (SNA). Doing the math 1 pound of honey in a total volume of a gallon should give you .35 gravity points. So 4x.35=.140 and water is 1.0 so your starting gravity is somewhere near 1.140 and if fermented dry to 1.000 or less then your potential alcohol is near 18%.

What yeast did you use?
Did you check the Gravity with a hydrometer?

To understand how your fermrent is going gravity readings are very impotant. From the sediment in your bottles it looks like you are part way through the ferment. Stirring that sediment a coupke times a day will help but only for the first week or so.

How long ago did you pitch your yeast?
I would check the gravity and if < 1.090 additional nutrients probably wont help.


"I boiled tap water and added honey since it was crystallized I understand I didn’t need to do so now cuz of the flavor loss and all that. "

Boiled tap water works but leaves the water a little "flat". Consider using purchased spring water. It carries some micro nutrients and minerals that are generally beneficial. The yeast will eat the sugar regardless of the honey being crystalized or not.

"I then added yeast nutrient threw another funnel 1 tsp or tbp what ever the package said. They say for a week maybe a week and a half and they are no longer bubbling. My question is should they not still be bubbling for at least three weeks to a month for good measure."

At 60 to 65 Deg this one will likely take a month or more for primary but really depends upon fermentation temperature, yeast, nutrients etc.

"Also what should I do can I add more yeast or more nutrient is to much to much? I used one packet each per detections."

No need to add more yeast unless it "stalls" then only as a last resort. As mentioned above look up SNA for nutrients.

Will taking the cork and airlock our to add anything ruin my batches?

Nope, yeast need air / oxygen to bud or reproduce but only early in the process. Yeast later go anaerobic and then should not be exposed to air but during an active ferment they produce CO2 and that will drive any small amountnof air out.

"Not sure what to do here they have been sitting in my house on my kitchen table at roughly 60-65 degrees."

Thats about perfect for most yeasts.

 

[Angelus1752]

I do not have a hydrometer so no readings where ever taken I wasn’t aware I needed to do so based on the kit I bought.see picture for yeast type so today is Saturday so not last Monday but the Monday before that. Is when I did my yeast now I’m not sure what pitching yeast is I just followed packet directions which was add yeast to so much water wait 15-20 minutes then add to my batch that’s when I transferred it to the bottles and shock for a while. I did add yeast nutrient not sure if it’s the same type as u mentioned or what the difference is

 

[Solstice Meadery]

Welcome to the community and the hobby.

I would recommend you get hydrometer. They aren't that expensive and are the only way to tell if your really done or not.

Is it possible to ferment dry in 2 weeks....yes. With 4 lbs of honey...eehhh.

I can't read your yeast pic but if it's anything other than a high ABV champagne yeast you'll probably reach tolerance before you go dry.

You'll need a cylinder, a turkey baster and the hydrometer to take a reading.

Always take a reading when you first make the must. Then compare over the course of the ferment so you know how your doing.

It might have stalled or it is possible you have reached tolerance already. Keeping good notes will help you recreate masterpieces instead of occasionally making something worth drinking

 

[bernardsmith]

Hi Angelus1752 and welcome. Truth is that using a bung and airlock is not really necessary during active fermentation - that is while the yeast is producing carbon dioxide. There will be more than enough CO2 produced during the first 10 days or so to blanket your mead with gas to prevent any problems with oxygen or bugs etc. Many mead and wine makers ferment in buckets loosely covered with cloth to keep out dirt and pets. Buckets allow us to stir the mead or wine to keep fruit submerged, de-gas (remove the carbon dioxide) and keep the yeast suspended. It also makes it very easy for us to add adjuncts such as nutrients during the first few days of fermentation. All that said, I cannot agree more with the others who have suggested that you try to get hold of an hydrometer. This is about the only tool a wine maker truly needs. It's the only way (that is inexpensive) to know what is going on with your fermentation and to know when active fermentation has ended (or if it has simply stalled).

 

[CKuhns]

Yeast pitch is what you did when you rehydrated and put it in your mixed water and honey (must) Almost 2 weeks ago. I suspect you are well past where additional nutrients will help.

Red Star Premier Blanc has an alcohol tolerance of 13-15% but with good management could go a bit higher.

At this point I would keep the bung and air lock on. But as Bernard mentioned will not hurt to remove it. Swirl the sediment a couple times a day to suspend the yeast.

Your best option at this point is to just see where it ends up.

 

[Angelus1752]

So it’s completely leaving it the way it is for another week or so before transferring it and tasting it as well as what kind of reading souls I be looking for when I get my hydrometer?

 

[dwhite60]

You have a choice with the gravity. One, you can let it go a few months until the gravity as measured with a hydrometer doesn't change over a few days. Two, you can add potassium metabisulphite and potassium sorbate to halt the fermentation wherever it is, for the most part.

Even though you hit the yeasts "alcohol tolerance" it can still creep lower. No guarantee all the yeast just stops at 15%. Some cells will continue on possibly for some time.

What I would do at this point, I'd check the gravity first. If it's stable-ish for a few days I'd rack it into another bottle, reduce the airspace to an inch or so adding boiled water, and let it sit a couple months then I'd test the gravity again to see what it's done.

Patience is the mazer's ( mead makers) absolute best tool.

"The Complete Meadmaker" by Ken Schramm is like the mead makers bible. It's a good read.

All the Best,
D. White

 

[Angelus1752]

Is it safe to taste test it or should I wait to do the gravity test? Like so I need to stop the yeast first or can I just try it?

 

[Solstice Meadery]

I would wait until you are ready to do a reading. You'll have to open it up and pull some of the liquid for the reading anyways, easy enough to then pour into a glass and try it. No need to disturb the work in progress any more than needed.

Making mead is like making an omelette, The reason many have unsatisfying results is because 1 of the cardinal rules is to make the must and then WALK AWAY. By that I mean leave it alone. It will do it's thing all on it's own, no need to fiddle with it day in and day out.

TONSA etc aside, once all that is done you could actually leave a mead alone, untouched except topping off the airlock, for months. It's won't hurt it. What will hurt it is constantly opening it up and checking on it, exposing it to oxygen etc.

That being said...no need for paranoia either. If you need to get into it to test, taste rack etc. don't feel like you're doing anything wrong. Get in there, do what needs done and get out.