New Anvil Bucket Fermentors

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So I added a gas post to the lid to be able to purge the fermenter with CO2 whenever I open it or do a pressure transfer. Used a gas post on a 1/4 inch bulkhead. Drilled a 1/2 inch hole and threaded in perfect!
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plazola86 said:
So I added a gas post to the lid to be able to purge the fermenter with CO2 whenever I open it or do a pressure transfer. Used a gas post on a 1/4 inch bulkhead. Drilled a 1/2 inch hole and threaded in perfect!
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That's beautiful! Nice work! So, have you successfully tried a pressure transfer yet? If so, how did it work?

I've been toying with the idea of picking up a 1.5" TC flange from brewhardware and soldering that to the top. This would open up the possibility of pressure transfers, CIP cleaning, and more refined airlocks than just using a #7 stopper... I just don't know if it's worth the extra money.
 
No pressure transfer yet but I don’t think it’ll be a problem. I’ve seen multiple people do it on the SS brew buckets which pretty much have the same clamps. Just have to be careful to just give it enough pressure to get the beer moving.
 
So about the volume marks...maybe I figured wrong, but it seems the marks are off by a quart? The 5 gallon mark would be 5 1/4 gallons, the tick below it, the actuall 5 gallons, for example. My "into the fermenter" measurement seemed to confirm this as well.
 
gunrock said:
So about the volume marks...maybe I figured wrong, but it seems the marks are off by a quart? The 5 gallon mark would be 5 1/4 gallons, the tick below it, the actuall 5 gallons, for example. My "into the fermenter" measurement seemed to confirm this as well.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's my thoughts on this. Nobody is going to intentionally rack trub into a keg or bottling bucket, so I see this as probable wort yield. ~95% primary wort. It's 1 quart loss out of 20.

I typically try to brew 5.25~5.5 gallons to get a full keg. Sometimes I don't always get that if boil longer or I have a lot of hops, fruit remnants, or whatever in the brew kettle.
 
Ok, so I've had my 4 gallon model for a few months. I'm on the third batch in it. I thought I would reply to my original post in this thread. After putting the fermenter together, upon closer inspection, I found a couple small specks of rust in the bottom. They did not clean out using standard methods. After contacting the company, they advised cleaning it off with Barkeeper's Friend cleaner, which they sent me out a couple small packs. After cleaning with this, I found that the rust spots had been removed and was happy. After the first batch came out, I found the rust spots back again. Repeat process, etc. So far, I guess I am happy with the fermenter, but I do not expect it to last a long time, from the construction. For the money, I think they are a value, but I would treat them gently to extend life span. Also buy some Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner, because the "stainless steel" stains. /cheers
 
I hate to be that new guy whose first post is a rant, but this thread always pops up at the top of searches about Anvil fermenters.

I just received mine, and straight from the factory there is a 1 inch wide band of really rough machining marks in the inside wall running along above the bottom rim. When I stuck my head in as best I could to get a closer look, I found pitting everywhere in the scratches, and dark discoloration inside the pits that cannot be seen from the top looking in. The "QC Pass" sticker on the bottom is clearly there for looks (or a cruel joke). I wish I could get a picture good enough to show, but I already packed it back up for a refund.

The whole point buying stainless steel is to avoid scratches where spoilage organisms can grow and have something that will last for years. I am completely turned off by the Anvil brand now. How can you put out a product with such an obvious defect?
 
RomanKobalt said:
I hate to be that new guy whose first post is a rant, but this thread always pops up at the top of searches about Anvil fermenters.

I just received mine, and straight from the factory there is a 1 inch wide band of really rough machining marks in the inside wall running along above the bottom rim. When I stuck my head in as best I could to get a closer look, I found pitting everywhere in the scratches, and dark discoloration inside the pits that cannot be seen from the top looking in. The "QC Pass" sticker on the bottom is clearly there for looks (or a cruel joke). I wish I could get a picture good enough to show, but I already packed it back up for a refund.

The whole point buying stainless steel is to avoid scratches where spoilage organisms can grow and have something that will last for years. I am completely turned off by the Anvil brand now. How can you put out a product with such an obvious defect?
Click to expand...
How deep were the scratches? Are you sure they aren't buffing marks?

These are stamped in a deep draw dies. The drilled hole is out, but that's it for machining. The handles are spot welded to kettle.

Stainless is low maintenance but not free from needing to be cleaned. My two anvil fermenters where spotless when I got them. I did get a goofed up ball valve. However they made good on that problem.

SS Brew Tech Bru Bucket has had its problem with not being clean when it was arriving to customers. It had a black oily film on it, that requires people to break out
Barkeeper's Friend (BkF)

The best thing about stainless is easy cleaning and it doesn't require much scrubbing if at all. If it's needed a scotch bright pad will do the job with BkF. Tiny buff marks aren't a problem. Most stainless has a brushed look unless it's been polished.
 
Schlenkerla said:
How deep were the scratches? Are you sure they aren't buffing marks?
Click to expand...

I'm positive they are not your typical buffing marks. I can get my fingernails stuck in them. Regardless, there is pitting everywhere in the marks, which is probably what they were trying to get rid of (or cover up?)
 
I went ahead and got some pictures. The first one shows the noticeable roughness looking down in, and the second I highlighted the pitting.

20180512_124658.jpg Pitting.jpg
 
RomanKobalt said:
I'm positive they are not your typical buffing marks. I can get my fingernails stuck in them. Regardless, there is pitting everywhere in the marks, which is probably what they were trying to get rid of (or cover up?)
Click to expand...
After seeing your post here and seeing the photos, rejecting them was the right thing to do.

They should have cut that out of the sheet before blanking out the round to do the deep draw punch.
 
Re pressure transfers, if you're racking to a keg, another option is to connect the gas out on the keg to either your airlock or that keg post you installed. The co2 in the keg (assuming you've purged) should replace the beer in the fermenter. You shouldn't need the pressure to push the beer out since you have a spigot. You just need co2 to fill the headspace.

I've done this successfully with my fermonster.
 
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.

Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!
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kingmatt said:
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.

Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
Click to expand...

Is the keg flushed and pressurized with CO2 during transfer? Do you have to vent the keg periodically to keep it flowing?
 
tmm0f5 said:
Is the keg flushed and pressurized with CO2 during transfer? Do you have to vent the keg periodically to keep it flowing?
Click to expand...

I fill the keg with starsan and push it all out through a picnic tap to completely flush out all the oxygen. Then I connect the fermenter spigot to the outpost on the keg and fill it from the bottom up. I leave the pressure relief valve turned to vent during the transfer.

It has made a huge improvement to my hoppy beers.
 
kingmatt said:
I fill the keg with starsan and push it all out through a picnic tap to completely flush out all the oxygen. Then I connect the fermenter spigot to the outpost on the keg and fill it from the bottom up. I leave the pressure relief valve turned to vent during the transfer.

It has made a huge improvement to my hoppy beers.
Click to expand...

That's great! Just got my anvil bucket and will certainly try it this way. Thanks!
 
kingmatt said:
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.

Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
Click to expand...

Try connecting the airlock to the gas post on the keg. Assuming you've purged that keg, it'll do the same thing but save you some co2 and the hassle of dealing with the co2 tank and regulator. Shouldn't have to open the vent to keep it going, either.
 
This is great... this thread combined two things I’ve been thinking about.... the Anvil Fermenter and closed system transfers... excellent!!

Cheers,
Dave
 
kingmatt said:
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.

Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
Click to expand...

Solid! definitely going to rip you off here.

I'll be sure to cite you in my brewing notes.

murphyslaw said:
Try connecting the airlock to the gas post on the keg. Assuming you've purged that keg, it'll do the same thing but save you some co2 and the hassle of dealing with the co2 tank and regulator. Shouldn't have to open the vent to keep it going, either.
Click to expand...

This seems like a good idea too but let me make sure I'm following. Instead of pushing gas through the fermenter, you put an airlock with sanitizer/vodka in it into the gas post so as the beer fills the keg, the airlock works as an outlet vent but does not let oxygen back into the keg?

Edit: afterthought, the airlock in gas post setup would still allow oxygen to contact the beer as it displaces the space in the fermenter. the co2 cushion provided in the original setup would prevent that I guess.
 
muledogus said:
Solid! definitely going to rip you off here.

This seems like a good idea too but let me make sure I'm following. Instead of pushing gas through the fermenter, you put an airlock with sanitizer/vodka in it into the gas post so as the beer fills the keg, the airlock works as an outlet vent but does not let oxygen back into the keg?

Edit: afterthought, the airlock in gas post setup would still allow oxygen to contact the beer as it displaces the space in the fermenter. the co2 cushion provided in the original setup would prevent that I guess.
Click to expand...

No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same.

If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. That presents two problems. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace.

What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace.

The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2; (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure; (3) simplicity--one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank).
 
murphyslaw said:
No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same.

If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. That presents two problems. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace.

What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace.

The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2; (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure; (3) simplicity--one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank).
Click to expand...


Got it, that's a great idea too! Thanks!
 
Had to go grab ingredients for a brew this weekend and decided I'd look to see if they had any bulkhead/post setups that I could use and they did not. I could have pieced something together but I was already spending enough on what I needed so at around $10 a part I decided I'd wait. Then I got home and figured, we don't just home-brew beer, we can home-brew anything. So I took out all my spare parts from over the years and started playing.

What eventually worked was an old valve from a co2 distributer I had. The thread fit wasn't perfect but the post grabbed enough of the bottom of the threads to hold tight. It leaked a good bit so I put about 10 layers of tape on and it's sealed like a dream for how much pressure it will ever see. The barbed fitting fits perfectly into the bung that came with with anvil so I can stick it right in.

I'll be trying it out this weekend but I don't see why I'll have any issues.

Side note: while testing how much pressure this piece could handle, I found that my anvil fermenter lid could not handle much at all without relief. The seal on the lid was failing with about as little pressure as I could give it. Won't be an issue with transferring but, in the future, fermenting under pressure would probably require some mods. Maybe even just some extra weight on the lid or some shims under each clasp.

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Brewed my first batch with the Anvil Bucket. Great experience. I was able to complete a closed transfer effortlessly. For the Gas in, I used a #7 stopper with a MFL to Barb Adapter. This allows me to hook my CO2 tank directly to the top of the fermenter.

For the output. I connected a 1/2" tubing and clamp to the barb outlet. On the other end, I connect to a Barb to FFL adapter and then to MFL Ball Lock Connector (much like the Brulosophy post above). In order to vent the keg, I used a Gas Ball Lock and vent to air.

I was able to keep a seal with about 1-2 PSI, drain by gravity. Worked beautifully with a Weizenbock that is now sitting on bourbon soaked oak spirals.

Stoked with my experience.
 

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RomanKobalt said:
I just received mine, and straight from the factory there is a 1 inch wide band of really rough machining marks in the inside wall running along above the bottom rim. When I stuck my head in as best I could to get a closer look, I found pitting everywhere in the scratches, and dark discoloration inside the pits that cannot be seen from the top looking in. The "QC Pass" sticker on the bottom is clearly there for looks (or a cruel joke). I wish I could get a picture good enough to show, but I already packed it back up for a refund.
Click to expand...

A follow-up on this:

I never got an acceptable resolution from either the merchant I bought it from or from Anvil (i.e., Blichmann).

The customer service of the merchant is not the subject of this thread (and I won't elaborate further), but I believe the complete lack of response from Anvil/Blichmann is relevant to the experience of using this product if someone encounters a problem.

I had to file a chargeback. I hope others' experiences are much better than mine in the future. I really wanted to use the heck out of this thing.
 
RomanKobalt said:
A follow-up on this:

I never got an acceptable resolution from either the merchant I bought it from or from Anvil (i.e., Blichmann).

The customer service of the merchant is not the subject of this thread (and I won't elaborate further), but I believe the complete lack of response from Anvil/Blichmann is relevant to the experience of using this product if someone encounters a problem.

I had to file a chargeback. I hope others' experiences are much better than mine in the future. I really wanted to use the heck out of this thing.
Click to expand...
I had problems and they fixed it immediately, less than 24 hours I hand a new ball valve.

Who did you speak to there?

Are you done, disgusted or still willing to resolve this or have you requested a refund?

I'd ask for another fermenter.

I also sent them photos to show them the problem.

Did you do anything like that?
 
Just finished my first batch with my Anvil Fermentor. Like anything else, I learned a few lessons:
  1. THE BARB NEEDS A HOSE CLAMP! I've been using 1/2" silicone for years now and didn't have any clear 1/2" hose. I was forced to use silicone so I couldn't really keep an eye on the clarity of the liquid I was transferring. Also... I guess I needed a hose barb? I was not prepared for that. I started my transfer by cracking my ball valve 1/2 way. Anything more than that would suck in air since I didn't have a clamp on the hose/barb.
  2. Use a hop bag when dry hopping. I always just dumped my dry hops into my carboys and used a nylon bag over my siphon. I took a chance and clocked my dip tube at the 3 oclock position before filling my fermentor (to avoid hops collecting in the tube), tossed in my dry hops when the time was right. Cold crashed for 48 hours. When I was transferring to my keg, the flow stopped about 2/3 through. I can't tell if it clogged or what, because when I was cleaning with PBW and hot water, it seemed to flow fine even though it refused to flow earlier. *shrug*
  3. CIP time. I had dry hop scum all the way up the side of fermentor wall and the lid. I'm so used to my automatic carboy washer doing all of the hard work that I forgot what it was like to actually have to scrub that stuff. I have a spare pump and CIP ball. I'm absolutely rigging that up next time to recirculate some cleaner and spare me some scrubbing.
  4. Should I be taking the whole ball valve and dip tube off to clean every time? I can't decide.... I cycled cleaner through it, but...what's your take?
Side note: I've heard hop sludge can turn blackish on stainless steel. I was introduced to that on my first batch. Gave me a quick scare until I remembered that's probably normal.

All in all, I like the product. I have some adjustments I need to make, but it shows promise.
 
ryanj said:
Just finished my first batch with my Anvil Fermentor. Like anything else, I learned a few lessons:
  1. THE BARB NEEDS A HOSE CLAMP! I've been using 1/2" silicone for years now and didn't have any clear 1/2" hose. I was forced to use silicone so I couldn't really keep an eye on the clarity of the liquid I was transferring. Also... I guess I needed a hose barb? I was not prepared for that. I started my transfer by cracking my ball valve 1/2 way. Anything more than that would suck in air since I didn't have a clamp on the hose/barb.
  2. Use a hop bag when dry hopping. I always just dumped my dry hops into my carboys and used a nylon bag over my siphon. I took a chance and clocked my dip tube at the 3 oclock position before filling my fermentor (to avoid hops collecting in the tube), tossed in my dry hops when the time was right. Cold crashed for 48 hours. When I was transferring to my keg, the flow stopped about 2/3 through. I can't tell if it clogged or what, because when I was cleaning with PBW and hot water, it seemed to flow fine even though it refused to flow earlier. *shrug*
  3. CIP time. I had dry hop scum all the way up the side of fermentor wall and the lid. I'm so used to my automatic carboy washer doing all of the hard work that I forgot what it was like to actually have to scrub that stuff. I have a spare pump and CIP ball. I'm absolutely rigging that up next time to recirculate some cleaner and spare me some scrubbing.
  4. Should I be taking the whole ball valve and dip tube off to clean every time? I can't decide.... I cycled cleaner through it, but...what's your take?
Side note: I've heard hop sludge can turn blackish on stainless steel. I was introduced to that on my first batch. Gave me a quick scare until I remembered that's probably normal.

All in all, I like the product. I have some adjustments I need to make, but it shows promise.
Click to expand...

Would love to see pics of your CIP setup when you have it up and working. However I found it much easier to clean than my old carboys.

I do take off the ball valve/dip tube. My thought is that's where a lot of trub/yeast/hop material sits, so I'd rather give that a good clean.
 
tmm0f5 said:
Would love to see pics of your CIP setup when you have it up and working. However I found it much easier to clean than my old carboys.

I do take off the ball valve/dip tube. My thought is that's where a lot of trub/yeast/hop material sits, so I'd rather give that a good clean.
Click to expand...

I have a spare CIP ball with a camlock fitting. It barely fits through the opening in the fermenter lid. It's not a perfect seal, but still should work ok. I was thinking of filling a bucket of PBW and placing it on the ground. Drop in my pond pump with a 1/2" barb that runs the cleaner up to the CIP ball...then drain the ball valve back into the bucket.

Run that for about 15 minutes.... rinse... and then disassemble ball valve / dip tube for individual soaking.
 
murphyslaw said:
No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same.

If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. That presents two problems. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace.

What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace.

The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2; (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure; (3) simplicity--one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank).
Click to expand...
Question about this method:
In order to do this, you would need to make sure the positive pressure in the keg isn't much more than 1-2 psi, otherwise you could push more pressure to the fermentor than it can handle, right?

I really like this idea though.
 
ryanj said:
Question about this method:
In order to do this, you would need to make sure the positive pressure in the keg isn't much more than 1-2 psi, otherwise you could push more pressure to the fermentor than it can handle, right?

I really like this idea though.
Click to expand...

I don't think so. If you hook the fermenter spigot up first, any positive pressure may cause co2 to leave the keg through the QD and go into the fermenter via the spigot, but that would just bubble up into the airspace and maybe out the airlock.
 
murphyslaw said:
I don't think so. If you hook the fermenter spigot up first, any positive pressure may cause co2 to leave the keg through the QD and go into the fermenter via the spigot, but that would just bubble up into the airspace and maybe out the airlock.
Click to expand...
Yep. So you're saying hook up the keg gas post to the fermenter gas post to let the co2 pressure in the keg equalize with the fermenter headspace. Then crack the spigot and let it flow...
 
ryanj said:
Yep. So you're saying hook up the keg gas post to the fermenter gas post to let the co2 pressure in the keg equalize with the fermenter headspace. Then crack the spigot and let it flow...
Click to expand...
Yep. Don't even need a gas post on the fermenter. Just a bung to stick the tube through, or attach it to an airlock. I had a carb cap so I use that jammed in a bung.

I saw it on another post somewhere. I've only done it once but it worked like a charm. A but simplier than using the co2 tank.
 
RM-MN said:
This is a great solution to a non-problem. It looks like a great way to separate the brewers from their money with little improvement but plenty of "shiny". Plastic buckets work just fine, cost way less, and can be replaced regularly without costing as much as one of these. If you have the money to waste on "shiny" go right ahead. I prefer to spend money on what is important in brewing, the ingredients. My 10 year old bucket still makes great beer.
Click to expand...
Awesome reply !!!!
 
Possum55 said:
Awesome reply !!!!
Click to expand...
Not really. I mean, sure, they're not essential, but that doesn't mean they're a waste of money. There are plenty of functional reasons to prefer this over a bucket. To come on a thread and just say everyone is wasting their money doesn't add much to the discussion, IMO. :Cheers:
 

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