need yeast suggestion for large beer to go LOW (.995)

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Jnco_hippie

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Here's the deal...

6 gallon batch
4lb 2 row
8lb 6 row
2lb smoked malt
1lb peated malt
2lb light DME
Mash one hour at 150 F
No boil off

OG 1.085 - 1.090
Target final gravity= as close to .995 as possible.

Normally I would use champagne yeast to get that low but since it is barley sugar and not grape or honey sugar im assuming I must dance to a new drummer?

Have access to every yeast under the sun, so just tell me what you reccomend. High gravity white labs? San diego super yeast? Lalvin 1118? Distiller's yeast? Red star champagne? Dry english ale yeast???

Thank you in advance
 
Will wlp099 (high gravity) take me down to .995? I know that it can go 19% if handled right but I was thinking the sugars below 1.010 might be unfermentable in beer/wort except with odd yeast.
 
The sugars you get from malted grains are different than fruit sugars used in wine, and aren't completely fermentable. Not sure that any yeast is capable of getting you to below 1.
 
Agreed with WLP099, but attenuation is more dependent on the mash that the fermentation. Mash low and long, like 145 for 2 hours. If it doesn't finish and you want it really dry. (really really dry) add some beano or amalase enzymes.
 
Jnco_hippie said:
Here's the deal...

6 gallon batch
4lb 2 row
8lb 6 row
2lb smoked malt
1lb peated malt
2lb light DME
Mash one hour at 150 F
No boil off

OG 1.085 - 1.090
Target final gravity= as close to .995 as possible.

Normally I would use champagne yeast to get that low but since it is barley sugar and not grape or honey sugar im assuming I must dance to a new drummer?

Have access to every yeast under the sun, so just tell me what you reccomend. High gravity white labs? San diego super yeast? Lalvin 1118? Distiller's yeast? Red star champagne? Dry english ale yeast???

Thank you in advance

Super dry for a 1.085 beer would be about 1.013. That would be 85% attenuation which is a stretch. To get higher that I'm sure you need Beano or enzymes but I've no experience there.

+1 to mash low and long. I think Rand Mosher says Bud Light is mashed at about 141 for 4 hours. And you have to lose the DME, replace with a pound of sugar and another pound of grain. DME is fixed to about 75% attenuation by the brewer.

As for yeast this isn't super high alcohol so you probably don't need to mess with champagne or special high alcohol yeast. Maybe San Diego or Pacman? Pitch lots and aerate well.

Just a comment, seems like a lot of smoked malt...
 
I am surprised that nobody has mentioned 3711. That yeast is a beast.

If you mash low and long it will go low, but not that low.
 
I know a highlt attenuating yeast is important in reaching a low F.G, but isnt having sugars that are much more fermantable more important? Fermantable such as table sugar, honey, candi sugar. A higher percentage of those and a low amount of crytsal type malts.
 
Are you using this for distilling? I can't imagine that grain bill otherwise. If you're making an actual beer I imagine it will be disgusting.

Otherwise, I agree with people above on the suggestions for yeast, and also that you want a low, long mash.
 
Another trick to help dry out a beer is to add sugar during high krausen. It helps push the yeast along to ferment more thoroughly.
 
You'll need a wine yeast to get it that low, but you'll still have to drop the DME, mash at 145 for ~2 hours and probably add some table sugar to get her all the way down. Tight lipped about the "whys" of this ugly recipe, are we?
 
By mashing at one hour at 150 or 145, then not boiling off, letting set overnight with heater would convert further would it not?

Remove 2 lb of DME and replace with 3 lb 2 row. Let set overnight then add dry ale yeast or WLP099 at 70F and let go for 2 weeks maybe add a small starter of champagne yeast if needed?

If mashing overnight I should get further conversion from the beta amalase in the 6 and 2 row base, right?
 
I'd say champagne yeast. I've used it to dry up a severely stuck tripel.
 
Skip the boil and it will drop below 0 as the enzymes will continue to chew up dextrins during the ferment. They work a lot more slowly at ferm temps, but they do work, and ferments last a lot longer than most mashes. Not sure on how shelf stable this resulting beer would be. Drying out would help a lot I reckon.
 
+1
Sam Adams has a patent on a similar technique, and Kai did some work with this recently.

The modification is that the fermentation is started with a boiled mash, and the wort from a mash that was not boiled is added. It's a little cleaner from a microbial standpoint and you have enough enzymes from the second mash to process the sugars from the first.
 
Ferment out with yeast of choice, add Brett and age. Only way to ferment those longer chain sugars.
 
Wyeast 3711, already mentioned in the thread, took a beer from 1.081 to 1.000 for me, no starter or oxygenation. It won't be too Saison-y at 68F.
 
With all the smoke malt and the desired gravity, you obviously want to use distiller's yeast.
 
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