Need help with too much head

[Adam333]

man I wish this conversation was in a different forum.... enough with the jokes.

My setup is a 2 keg fridge running up to a draft tower. (Total run is 3 feet)

When I start pouring a beer, the first 3 seconds is all foam. After that it’s perfect

I clean regularly. Have adjusted my psi all over the place. (Typically keep it around 8)

Please help

 

[Metalchef1]

Usually means you need longer lines... With 3/16 tubing most people shoot for 10 to 12 foot lines and serving pressure between 10 and 14..

 

[AJinJacksonville]

Is there such a thing as too much head?

 

[Adam333]

What about having my draft tower not refrigerated? The reason I say this is because after about three to four seconds I start getting a good pour.

If I had long lines would I get a good pour after 3 to04 seconds?

 

[Metalchef1]

I personally don't think so. The tower should not be large enough to decrease temperature that much to cause issues?
My setup is a double sliding glass door merchandiser fridge that I drilled the side walls for 6 taps so I can't speak from personal experience with a traditional kegerator. My experience with towers is only commercial operations (with glycol chiller and all that good stuff... And it's limited at that).
If you go onto Amazon..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Buy a box and try longer.... If it doesn't work for you for some reason at least you only dropped a few bucks?

 

[TheHopfather]

Do you have a fan circulating air in your Kegerator? I've read plenty of threads of guys having trouble with foamy pours when using a tower without a fan. When beer warms up the CO2 wants to leave the beer, that creates head. The fact that your pours get better after a few seconds sounds like your problem is beer warming up in the lines.

I would get a small computer fan and install it at the base of the tower blowing cold air up. You didn't mention how long your current lines are, foamy pours are usually caused by too short of lines. However if your lines are too short the entire pour should be foamy, it shouldn't get better after a few seconds.

 

[mredge73]

Try 10-15' long lines or flow control faucets. This should fix your main problem by reducing the flow rate.
You will still get a little foam on the first pour, this foam should cool the faucet and all pours after will be good after.

 

[Adam333]

Yeah I don’t have a fan inside. The lines are relatively short maybe only 5 feet

The other odd part. I took the draft tower off of the kegerator and mounted it up on the bar top. So there is a gap from the fridge to the draft tower of about 1 foot.

 

[Metalchef1]

Definitely longer lines..
A computer fan is a great idea.
And as far as the gap....you mean a gap of open space? If so... I would get some thick wall pvc and "bridge" the gap around the lines.... Make an extension of the tower so there is no gap anymore.
I'm picturing the gap as a scenario where you basically have the same situation as you would if you left the door open to the fridge?

 

[TheHopfather]

Going to 10 - 15' lines should solve a lot of your problem. 5' is awfully short and longer lines are cheap.

If that doesn't do the trick I'd find a way to seal that gap and try to keep the tower as cold as possible. You want the beer lines to be cold from the keg all the way to the tap. Temperature fluctuations in the beer line is probably contributing to your foam issue. Another trick I've seen on these forums is a copper tube that goes from the taps to down inside the kegerator, beer lines are run through the copper. Since copper conducts heat/cold so easily it can keep the beer inside the lines cold.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I can imagine a one ft open gap from fridge to tower...please tell us that's not the case.
Get flow control faucets and keep your lines as is and be dome with it.

Your always going to get foam for a second or two with a tower. No way around it. If the second or third pour are normal than your setup correctly and enjoy

 

[jimmykx250]

Guys i have a question. So I should run 15 foot lines even if i have 2 kegs inside a fridge with picnic taps?

 

[mjlower]

Definitely some good points made already. For sure need longer lines and want to keep your lines as cold as possible. But another scenario to explore would be your faucets. If you're using the original (usually chrome) faucets that came with your kegger, that can be an issue. If you don't already, invest in some Perlicks. This will help out greatly.

 

[Sdiddy84]

I just had to change my shank and tail piece out. The original ones are junk. Cost is around 20 bucks. I had full glass of foam on one tap and the other poured perfect. Changed the shank and tail piece and now they both pour perfectly. 1+ on changing the line lengths.

 

[Adam333]

Thanks for the input guys I am changing the llength tonight and will update you.

Yes so my set up is a kegerator below a granite bar and then on the second tier bar (which is made out of mahogany) I have my draft tower. The 1 foot difference is non-insulated which goes through the granite and the wood getting up to the second part. I will take a photo

 

[Sdiddy84]

Thanks for the input guys I am changing the llength tonight and will update you.

Yes so my set up is a kegerator below a granite bar and then on the second tier bar (which is made out of mahogany) I have my draft tower. The 1 foot difference is non-insulated which goes through the granite and the wood getting up to the second part. I will take a photo

I'm betting that 1 foot of warm line may be the cause. What happens if you pour two pints constructively? Does the second still have the foaming issue?

 

[Adam333]

2 pints in a row, the second one is fine. If I wait 30 sec I get foam

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Thanks for the input guys I am changing the llength tonight and will update you.

Yes so my set up is a kegerator below a granite bar and then on the second tier bar (which is made out of mahogany) I have my draft tower. The 1 foot difference is non-insulated which goes through the granite and the wood getting up to the second part. I will take a photo

I have the same type setup. Use a hole saw to cut a hole in the countertop under the tower. Slide a PVC tube though the hole. With the fridge where you want it trace around the tube on fridge. Cut the same size hole. Slide the pvc tube into the tower. Its an EXACT fit with the thin insulation the tower came with if you have a standard 3" tower. Mark and cut tube around 1/4" inside fridge and seal around it with silicone...Wrap the pvc tube in pipe insulation between the fridge and countertop...get a small fan in the fridge for good measure....works great

Its either a 2 or 21/4" pvc pipe. Take the tower to a big box store to test for correct size

 

[enkamania]

I did both tower cooler and longer lines (about 10 feet)

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

The OP doesn't mention whether hes using a corny or sanke. If sanke I can guarantee line length is NOT the issue

 

[Sdiddy84]

The OP doesn't mention whether hes using a corny or sanke. If sanke I can guarantee line length is NOT the issue

Good catch but why is having a sanke keg not an issue for line length?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Good catch but why is having a sanke keg not an issue for line length?

Sankes and corneys are completely different by design. I've used both sanke and corny kegs. I can say for certainty that sankes serve far better. Pretty much everyone on the forum will recommend long lines with cornys for good reason, you need them.
Sankes work fine with 5 ft lines.
Cornys are designed for soda like at 7-11 gas stations whatever and have been "made" to work for beer
Sankes are designed to serve beer
Theres a reason every kegerator comes with short lines and a commercial keg connection..its a system that works

Its a discussion that's been beaten to death and not looking to get into that debate but you asked so there it is...at least my observation anyway

 

[Sdiddy84]

Sankes and corneys are completely different by design. I've used both sanke and corny kegs. I can say for certainty that sankes serve far better. Pretty much everyone on the forum will recommend long lines with cornys for good reason, you need them.
Sankes work fine with 5 ft lines.
Cornys are designed for soda like at 7-11 gas stations whatever and have been "made" to work for beer
Sankes are designed to serve beer
Theres a reason every kegerator comes with short lines and a commercial keg connection..its a system that works

Its a discussion that's been beaten to death and not looking to get into that debate but you asked so there it is...at least my observation anyway

Ah ok. I wasn't sure of the science behind the sanke and how shorter lines doesn't matter. Seems like a topic I'll have to research. Thanks.

 

[Adam333]

Reporting back guys (I’m the OP)

So I did 3 things

1. Went from 4 to 12 feet
2. Insulated the beer lines from fridge to tap
3 made a home made glycol chiller all the way to the tap

2 out of the 3 pour great. The 1 (sanke) still has head. May try changing the gasket

 

[Adam333]

The other cool thing I did is added a wiwo (smart)outlet to the pump. So now when I turn on he basement lights the pump turns on automatically. And goes off when I turn off the lights