My Third Homebrew (Sorachi Ace)

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res1bcb1

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Mash @147°F for 1 hour
Mashed out @170
Sparged 170
hit hot break in boil dropped 1/8 of about 2.5 oz sorachi hops
1/8 @30 mins
4/8 @ 60 mins..
dissolved about 8 oz of belgian candi sugar
now my question come to dry hopping i need to know when i should add the hops in fermenter .
 
I usually add my dry hops when I'm taking the FG reading which is usually 2 weeks after I brew. If things don't look quite done I'll wait till three weeks, but whenever I'm taking the reading is when I'm adding that first round of dry hops.

If you're dry hopping I highly recommend doing it in steps, it seems to make a noticeable difference in aroma
 
so when fg is close break up my last 2/8s of hops into maybe 3 or 4 differ times of dryhopping? and do you recommend a hop bag... i heard good and bad things about it. mainly its a pain in the ass to get out of the carboy
 
beer 2 n 3 :)

20160220_220416.jpg
 
what style were you going for? just a pale ale?

in the future, if you're really wanting to get some flavor and aroma out of those hops, don't do that 30 min addition. (oh, also, when people talk about hop additions in the homebrewing world, they will give the time that the addition of hops will be in the boil) I would do the 0 min addition like you did (that one is also called a flameout addition), and take that 30 min one to a 5 min one. Or just put them all in at flameout.

As far as the dry hopping goes, you wanna wait until the fermentation activity has slowed down. Some people like to wait until it's absolutely finished and there's been a significant amount of off-gassing, because they feel they lose some aroma to the off-gassing. I personally don't think it makes too much of a difference, and love to multi-task, so I wait until the fermentation activity has began to ramp down, and krausen has dropped. That's usually around day 5-7. Just throw all the hops in at one time. Leave them in there for another 5-7 days or so. Then cold crash for a few days, then package as normal. If you're not going to cold crash, then I would wait until you start seeing that the yeast is dropping clear. If your fermentation isn't done in two weeks, then you've done something wrong, or you're using one of the very few "complicated" yeasts. For most yeast strains, fermentation will be complete by day 9-10. Here's a great experiment that shows the difference between one dose of dry hops vs. multiple:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/05/04/single-vs-double-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/
 
what style were you going for? just a pale ale?

in the future, if you're really wanting to get some flavor and aroma out of those hops, don't do that 30 min addition. (oh, also, when people talk about hop additions in the homebrewing world, they will give the time that the addition of hops will be in the boil) I would do the 0 min addition like you did (that one is also called a flameout addition), and take that 30 min one to a 5 min one. Or just put them all in at flameout.

As far as the dry hopping goes, you wanna wait until the fermentation activity has slowed down. Some people like to wait until it's absolutely finished and there's been a significant amount of off-gassing, because they feel they lose some aroma to the off-gassing. I personally don't think it makes too much of a difference, and love to multi-task, so I wait until the fermentation activity has began to ramp down, and krausen has dropped. That's usually around day 5-7. Just throw all the hops in at one time. Leave them in there for another 5-7 days or so. Then cold crash for a few days, then package as normal. If you're not going to cold crash, then I would wait until you start seeing that the yeast is dropping clear. If your fermentation isn't done in two weeks, then you've done something wrong, or you're using one of the very few "complicated" yeasts. For most yeast strains, fermentation will be complete by day 9-10. Here's a great experiment that shows the difference between one dose of dry hops vs. multiple:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/05/04/single-vs-double-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

i understand. as of my other 2 batches... and this one.. they were all kits with instructions followed to the T. besides some minor things i dont like in the instructions .. from stuff ive learned from this forum... now cold crashing is. keeping beer at a temp right above freezing?
 
what style were you going for? just a pale ale?

in the future, if you're really wanting to get some flavor and aroma out of those hops, don't do that 30 min addition. (oh, also, when people talk about hop additions in the homebrewing world, they will give the time that the addition of hops will be in the boil) I would do the 0 min addition like you did (that one is also called a flameout addition), and take that 30 min one to a 5 min one. Or just put them all in at flameout.

As far as the dry hopping goes, you wanna wait until the fermentation activity has slowed down. Some people like to wait until it's absolutely finished and there's been a significant amount of off-gassing, because they feel they lose some aroma to the off-gassing. I personally don't think it makes too much of a difference, and love to multi-task, so I wait until the fermentation activity has began to ramp down, and krausen has dropped. That's usually around day 5-7. Just throw all the hops in at one time. Leave them in there for another 5-7 days or so. Then cold crash for a few days, then package as normal. If you're not going to cold crash, then I would wait until you start seeing that the yeast is dropping clear. If your fermentation isn't done in two weeks, then you've done something wrong, or you're using one of the very few "complicated" yeasts. For most yeast strains, fermentation will be complete by day 9-10. Here's a great experiment that shows the difference between one dose of dry hops vs. multiple:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/05/04/single-vs-double-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

i understand. as of my other 2 batches... and this one.. they were all kits with instructions followed to the T. besides some minor things i dont like in the instructions .. from stuff ive learned from this forum... now cold crashing is. keeping beer at a temp right above freezing? and yes a pale ale
 
i understand. as of my other 2 batches... and this one.. they were all kits with instructions followed to the T. besides some minor things i dont like in the instructions .. from stuff ive learned from this forum... now cold crashing is. keeping beer at a temp right above freezing? and yes a pale ale

Yeah pretty much. It's not absolutely necessary. The yeast and other particulates will drop clear on their own. This just helps speed up that process. Once you've reached FG and you don't detect any off-flavors (this will come from experience, so brew more!), then it's ok to cold crash it. Some people like to do so slowly, some people like to just set the temp controller to near freezing. Some people even like to add gelatin in order to speed it up even more.
 
Yeah pretty much. It's not absolutely necessary. The yeast and other particulates will drop clear on their own. This just helps speed up that process. Once you've reached FG and you don't detect any off-flavors (this will come from experience, so brew more!), then it's ok to cold crash it. Some people like to do so slowly, some people like to just set the temp controller to near freezing. Some people even like to add gelatin in order to speed it up even more.

now when you say speed it up.. referring to fermentation? or cold break
 
Mash @147°F for 1 hour
Mashed out @170
Sparged 170
hit hot break in boil dropped 1/8 of about 2.5 oz sorachi hops
1/8 @30 mins
4/8 @ 60 mins..
dissolved about 8 oz of belgian candi sugar
now my question come to dry hopping i need to know when i should add the hops in fermenter .

also forgot OG is 1060
 
now when you say speed it up.. referring to fermentation? or cold break


Speed up the time it takes for the beer to clear. You want to be certain fermentation is finished before you start the cold crash.

Cold break is something else. That's what happens when you quickly chill the wort after the boil. It does also help to make clearer beer when you get a good cold break.
 
Speed up the time it takes for the beer to clear. You want to be certain fermentation is finished before you start the cold crash.

Cold break is something else. That's what happens when you quickly chill the wort after the boil. It does also help to make clearer beer when you get a good cold break.

oh ok mixing up terminology . yeah my 2nd i believe is still activily fermenting... still bubbles going every once in a while last time i check my gravity for my batch #2 the gravity has not moved from 1020. so ima give it a few more days and check again. im ready to start bottling though lol
 

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