my small footprint 110volt-1500watt system

[MrVix]

I had planned to post some pics of this little guy but just never got around to it. I wanted a small footprint, very mobile, system that would function with any common 110v kitchen outlet. The RIMS tube and the kettle have Brewhardware ALL stainless steel 110 volt 1500 watt elements. The pump is a small 12v food grade magnetic from China. The lower shelf storage totes are very convenient.

 

[Pappers_]

Looks great!

 

[nutty_gnome]

Are you doing 2.5 gallon batches?

 

[Gavin C]

Really slick. Very nice compact design. Love how you've insulated the pot AND the RIMS so neatly.

 

[rudylyon57]

Clever design and workmanship. Bravo.

 

[TexasWine]

Lovely!

 

[chickens4life]

I like that one a lot! might have to copy it! what size batches are you doing?

 

[fuzzy2133]

Awesome!
:rockin:

 

[MrVix]

I brew 5 gallon batches.

 

[MrVix]

Thanks for all of the compliments guys!

 

[Gavin C]

Well deserved to say the least.

Tons of great ideas to borrow/steal from your stream-lined build.

Thanks for sharing it here.

 

[pretzelb]

It took me a while to figure out how it works but I think I get it. The RIMS tube is a neat idea. And that cart is awesome. Are you able to sparge at all or does it all go from mash directly to boil?

 

[NathPowe]

Great job man. Really clean and obviously you paid a lot of attention to detail. I for one would love some more detail on your process/workflow. What is pre-boil volume and how is that 1500W element handling it?

Again - really nice work on this. Enjoy it.

Cheers.

 

[203PH]

Sweet set up. Thanks for shareing

 

[dude_brewery]

Awesome design and craftsmanship!

I'm curious as well, how does the 1500W element handle a 5-6 gallon boil? Could you give us the approximate time it takes you to get from sparge to boil?

Thanks for sharing the build!

 

[aphanson17]

I'm also interested in the 1500w element details. I'm just starting to plan my build and wanted to try and stick to 120v if possible. Also, what pump are you using?

SWMBO is requiring my build to look "presentable". This is a very nice and clean looking build. Great job!

 

[Egas1949]

Great job man! Along the same lines as a small 2.5-3gal/120V system I'm trying to put together. I set some design requirements for myself so I'm still sourcing stuff. Check it out https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1HxIkoLTnHJ9X-yZwAEboJhyoR8WD5muwNdDqAGAyQvo/edit?usp=sharing

If anyone can offer advice for shaping or installing bare elements, it would be appreciated. Instead of going with a conventional straight or fold-over element, I'd like to try and get something like the BoilCoil without actually buying the BoilCoil.

 

[MrVix]

The 1500 watt element will bring 6 gallons to a vigorous boil with the kettle insulated.

 

[MrVix]

1. I bring 4 gallons of sparge water to a boil a put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on and set it aside for later.
2. I add my strike water volume to the Mash Tun, set the controller to Doe-in temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
3. In about 20 minutes the strike water is ready and I add my grains.
4. I let the grains set for about 10 minutes to settle the grain bed. Then set the controller to Mash temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
5. After the Mash is complete, I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and run the pump to transfer the wort to the Boil Kettle.(see picture 8)
6. I add the sparge water that I set aside to the Mash Tun, set the controller to 170* put the lid on and start recirculating thru the RIMS for 15 minutes.
7. I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and start the pump to transfer the 2nd runnings into the Boil Kettle.
8. I turn on the Boil Kettle element and in about 20 minutes its boiling.

 

[nutty_gnome]

Gotta hand it to you, that is simple and you've kept the volumes in check to work with your wattage. Very nice.

 

[Gavin C]

1. I bring 4 gallons of sparge water to a boil a put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on and set it aside for later.
2. I add my strike water volume to the Mash Tun, set the controller to Doe-in temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
3. In about 20 minutes the strike water is ready and I add my grains.
4. I let the grains set for about 10 minutes to settle the grain bed. Then set the controller to Mash temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
5. After the Mash is complete, I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and run the pump to transfer the wort to the Boil Kettle.(see picture 8)
6. I add the sparge water that I set aside to the Mash Tun, set the controller to 170* put the lid on and start recirculating thru the RIMS for 15 minutes.
7. I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and start the pump to transfer the 2nd runnings into the Boil Kettle.
8. I turn on the Boil Kettle element and in about 20 minutes its boiling.

Very clear and well thought out approach and build. Thanks for detailing the process.

Any idea how much the element could boil. You think it could do 7.5 gallons?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Just curious, why 1500w and not 2000w?

20 amp gfi circuits are pretty common these days and I have found the additional 500w makes a big difference.

 

[augiedoggy]

Great job man! Along the same lines as a small 2.5-3gal/120V system I'm trying to put together. I set some design requirements for myself so I'm still sourcing stuff. Check it out https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1HxIkoLTnHJ9X-yZwAEboJhyoR8WD5muwNdDqAGAyQvo/edit?usp=sharing

If anyone can offer advice for shaping or installing bare elements, it would be appreciated. Instead of going with a conventional straight or fold-over element, I'd like to try and get something like the BoilCoil without actually buying the BoilCoil.

the boil coil is basically a more powerful electric smoker element (at like 20 times the cost) if you search electric smoker elements you may find something...

 

[NathPowe]

1. I bring 4 gallons of sparge water to a boil a put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on and set it aside for later.
2. I add my strike water volume to the Mash Tun, set the controller to Doe-in temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
3. In about 20 minutes the strike water is ready and I add my grains.
4. I let the grains set for about 10 minutes to settle the grain bed. Then set the controller to Mash temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
5. After the Mash is complete, I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and run the pump to transfer the wort to the Boil Kettle.(see picture 8)
6. I add the sparge water that I set aside to the Mash Tun, set the controller to 170* put the lid on and start recirculating thru the RIMS for 15 minutes.
7. I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and start the pump to transfer the 2nd runnings into the Boil Kettle.
8. I turn on the Boil Kettle element and in about 20 minutes its boiling.

Thanks for posting man. I love the setup and the straight-forward process. Have fun brewing on that rig.

CHeers.

 

[pretzelb]

Thanks for posting man. I love the setup and the straight-forward process. Have fun brewing on that rig.

CHeers.

I agree. Thanks for posting. Very neat setup and process.

 

[ferm.adventures]

Here I was all morning thinking about hacking in to my stainless HTL to dual purpose it for an eBIAB brewing in the winter an I see this! I have most of the same equipment sitting around already. Even the same pot with a 120 volt element installed.

May I ask, what size is the tool cart? Doing something similar would solve my winter brewing woes.

Bravo!

 

[zipster222]

1. I bring 4 gallons of sparge water to a boil a put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on and set it aside for later.
2. I add my strike water volume to the Mash Tun, set the controller to Doe-in temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
3. In about 20 minutes the strike water is ready and I add my grains.
4. I let the grains set for about 10 minutes to settle the grain bed. Then set the controller to Mash temp and start recirculating thru the RIMS.
5. After the Mash is complete, I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and run the pump to transfer the wort to the Boil Kettle.(see picture 8)
6. I add the sparge water that I set aside to the Mash Tun, set the controller to 170* put the lid on and start recirculating thru the RIMS for 15 minutes.
7. I put the Mash Tun lid on the Boil Kettle and start the pump to transfer the 2nd runnings into the Boil Kettle.
8. I turn on the Boil Kettle element and in about 20 minutes its boiling.

I am not quite clear. After step #8, can you remove the lid from the kettle and still maintain a good boil for releasing DMS?

 

[AnOldUR]

Nice setup and process!

Just a random observation. I've used that type of cart in my shop. For a lot of applications it's better for me to mount the shelf up-side-down and use the bottom as my work surface. That way I don't have the high lip around the edge getting in the way.

 

[Egas1949]

the boil coil is basically a more powerful electric smoker element (at like 20 times the cost) if you search electric smoker elements you may find something...

Thanks augie,

Would the smoker element still be immersible in water?

 

[wilserbrewer]

I don't understand the fascination with the boil coil and fail to see how it is superior to a water heater element at 10% blingmann prices?

 

[pretzelb]

Nice setup and process!

Just a random observation. I've used that type of cart in my shop. For a lot of applications it's better for me to mount the shelf up-side-down and use the bottom as my work surface. That way I don't have the high lip around the edge getting in the way.

Funny you say that because I was thinking having the shelf mounted the way he does it might help to contain spills from the floor!

 

[MrVix]

Funny you say that because I was thinking having the shelf mounted the way he does it might help to contain spills from the floor!

I have an absorbent mat under the MashTun and the Boil Kettle and the top shelf is water tight, so I catch any spillage for easy clean up.

 

[TexasWine]

Do you have any issues running the 1500 watt element with the STC 1000? From what I've read, they're rated for 10 amps. 1500 watts at 120v is 12.5 amps. Seems like you'd fry it.

 

[MrVix]

Do you have any issues running the 1500 watt element with the STC 1000? From what I've read, they're rated for 10 amps. 1500 watts at 120v is 12.5 amps. Seems like you'd fry it.

The digital temp controller switches an SSR which fires the element.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks augie,

Would the smoker element still be immersible in water?

I guess it would depend on the elements mounting style... my electric smoker can get pretty humid if I use the water pan so I guess as long as the mounting is watertight it could work... you could also have the base welded and modified fairly cheap.. even JB weld is cmpletely inert and food safe when cured...(not that its an ideal solution for asthetics)
what ever you choose my vote is to keep it ULWD there are a lot of lower wattage stainless cartridge heaters out there for very little $$ you can buy a couple and mount them in one kettle by mounting them is a 1/2" or 3/8" compression fitting. ..just some options.. I used a huge 36" long element in my rims build (link in my sig) works awesome and never any buildup at all.
I just received my new 4500w all stainless ripple ulwd element which was only about $50 with shipping... My old one served me well the last few years but I damaged the base outside the pot and since I made the mistake of epoxying the electrical cover on its non repairable... the base wasnt stainless but never rusted.

 

[augiedoggy]

I don't understand the fascination with the boil coil and fail to see how it is superior to a water heater element at 10% blingmann prices?

I'm so glad someone else sees this..I think its just the name that many are attracted too..(I'm not saying this is the case here)
blichmann likely just has some company who makes fryer or smoker elements make the boil coil for pennies on the dollar... they are WAAAY over priced for what it is and they have no real benefit for the cost over an ULWD ripple... Blichmann makes some cool stuff but its mostly overpriced for what it is and does... but saying you have "Blichmann" kettles is on par with having a Porsche in the garage it seems to many...

 

[augiedoggy]

The digital temp controller switches an SSR which fires the element.

how the timing? does the stc respond quickly enough? the processor slows the temp readout refresh rate way down and it was my understanding they had so much of a time delay built in to protect the mechanical relays? unless you loaded alphas stc 1000+ firmware on it? I didnt read through the thread but if your just using it in a basically "always on" supplemental heating application then it wouldnt matter since it wouldnt be using the stc as anything more than an on switch.

 

[Egas1949]

Yeah, I have no intention of paying for a blichmann boilcoil just trying to approximate the element geometry.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yeah, I have no intention of paying for a blichmann boilcoil just trying to approximate the element geometry.

Just curious, what is so appealing about the BC geometry?

 

[fuzzy2133]

Just curious, what is so appealing about the BC geometry?

It is curved/arched to follow the inside diameter of the kettle.