My Rig--thanks HBT!

[knightbeer39]

Hey all, my new brew rig, the "HAL 2000", is just about finished and I wanted to post a special thanks to all the HBT vendors that I used to build it. the design and just about every part was purchased from vendors on HBT. Its a direct fire RIMS ("Brutus 10"). Here are a couple of pics and special thanks to the vendors on this site. THANKS HBT Vendors!!

HAL 2000

My MT fb:

One pump configuration, the design was also stolen from member here:

Brew stand and burners--Pinup brewery
False bottom and diptube--Jaybird
Pumps, hose, blichman thermo on BK--Austin Homebrew supply
Pretty much every piece of hardware, ball valves, other diptube, fittings etc.--bargainfittings
Thermo and sight glass for HLT (in mail!)--Bobby_M

Thanks HBT vendors and members! Couldn't have done it with out ya!

 

[stevo155]

Hey all, my new brew rig, the "HAL 2000"

Does it call you Dave?

"What are you doing, Dave? That strike water is much too high."

Very nice.

 

[knightbeer39]

Hee hee, yeah. And it scares the crap out of me sometimes

 

[Sea]

Very nice! I'm jealous. Let us know how it works on Brewday.

 

[ibrewit]

Good looking build.

 

[knightbeer39]

Thanks guys. I brewed a Roasted Pecan Porter the other day and everything ran pretty smooth. I need quick disconnects for sure, and I almost had a stuck mash, but I overcame that and the rest was smooth as silk

 

[EarthBound]

Nice rig!
Anything you would differently if you had another go around?

 

[Catt22]

Looks like a clean build, but I don't see any automated temperature control as I would expect on a Brutus clone. Do you operate it completely manually? What type of burners are you using? Pardon all the questions, but I found it difficult to operate my RIMS manually with anything other than a straight up single infusion mash. Step mashing was a major PIA and I soon automated the MT burner with a solenoid valve and controller. This upgrade made step mashes doable and mostly painless.

 

[humann_brewing]

very nice and great looking rig!

 

[limulus]

Does it call you Dave?

"What are you doing, Dave? That strike water is much too high."

Very nice.

The thing is hollow...it goes on forever...and oh my God...it's full of stars!

 

[knightbeer39]

Looks like a clean build, but I don't see any automated temperature control as I would expect on a Brutus clone. Do you operate it completely manually? What type of burners are you using? Pardon all the questions, but I found it difficult to operate my RIMS manually with anything other than a straight up single infusion mash. Step mashing was a major PIA and I soon automated the MT burner with a solenoid valve and controller. This upgrade made step mashes doable and mostly painless.

Automated with a PID is next on my list, but as you pointed out its going to require a bit more equipment, etc. since I am using gas and not electric. I am doing it manually right now. I primarily do single infusion with a mash out, but I do intend to do step mashing as well. You're definately right that hitting the mark on the temperature control is a bit of a challenge, but I expect to be able to mitigate some of that manually as I get used to it. I noticed on my last batch that I was getting about a 4-6 degree rise after stopping the flame, so I am using that as a baseline right now. full automation is on the horizon though!

 

[knightbeer39]

Nice rig!
Anything you would differently if you had another go around?

Well, yes actually. for one thing I put a ball valve on the wort return/sparging section up on the MT. That was pointless since you control the flow down at the pump and will build up pressure if you try to control the flow at the MT. I thought it would be easier since you are looking down into MT to control it there, but I overestimated the psi limits of the standard high-temp tubing. I haven't actually tried it yet, but I suspect it would be an issue.

Again this hasn't been an issue yet, but in hindsight I should have had "pinup brewery" weld a couple of heat deflector plates over the pumps. That option though came up after I had already bought the stand

Otherwise I am very happy with it. I finished polishing up the the BK yesterday, so they all three are shiney now

 

[jcav]

Congrats! Nice job

 

[EarthBound]

Well, yes actually. for one thing I put a ball valve on the wort return/sparging section up on the MT. That was pointless since you control the flow down at the pump and will build up pressure if you try to control the flow at the MT. I thought it would be easier since you are looking down into MT to control it there, but I overestimated the psi limits of the standard high-temp tubing. I haven't actually tried it yet, but I suspect it would be an issue.

I assume you want the ball valve on the return for the MLT to control the flow. You want to control flow on the output of the pump, right? So a ball valve should be somewhere between the pump outlet and the MLT return. I'm not sure exactly what you are saying. Do you have a pic? It's worth a thousand words.

 

[knightbeer39]

Yes, the ball valve at the MT is useless; you use the one at the pump outflow to control the rate of sparge water going in. If you look at the pic I put of the pump configuration, the valve on the top of the picture is controlling outflow.

 

[Kauai_Kahuna]

Really nice system there. Man J-birds false bottom looks really funky and very cool at the same time.
So how does the system work for you?

 

[knightbeer39]

It works wonderfully so far. I have done three batches on it so far including a porter, an ESB and a Rye PA. My efficiency is down a bit from the old ghetto system, but I mainly attribute that to grinding a bit coarser to make sure I don't get a stuck mash. Here is a grainy phone picture of the system in action:

BTW, I've been to Kauai a couple of times, mostly stayed in Waimea. What a paradise that place is!

 

[nostalgia]

"I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't brew that."

-Joe

 

[craigsphillips]

Hey all, my new brew rig, the "HAL 2000", is just about finished and I wanted to post a special thanks to all the HBT vendors that I used to build it. the design and just about every part was purchased from vendors on HBT. Its a direct fire RIMS ("Brutus 10"). Here are a couple of pics and special thanks to the vendors on this site. THANKS HBT Vendors!!

HAL 2000

My MT fb:

One pump configuration, the design was also stolen from member here:

Brew stand and burners--Pinup brewery
False bottom and diptube--Jaybird
Pumps, hose, blichman thermo on BK--Austin Homebrew supply
Pretty much every piece of hardware, ball valves, other diptube, fittings etc.--bargainfittings
Thermo and sight glass for HLT (in mail!)--Bobby_M

Thanks HBT vendors and members! Couldn't have done it with out ya!

Nice work! I'm in the process of making my setup. I hope you don't me asking a couple questions. What is the purpose of the plastic buckets on the ground? Also, could you post a picture of the inside and the outside of the MT fittings for at mash recirculation inlet? Thanks.

 

[knightbeer39]

Sure, I'll have to take a look and see if I have pics here at work, but if not i will do it at home later.

The buckets are just to catch any extra water/wort that comes through the bleeder valves I put there to keep the mess down. I close the top valve on the pump, and open the side valve. Then I open the ball valve on the vessel and the fluid floods the pump head--thus priming it. Then I just open the top valve on the pump, close the bleeder valve, hit the pump switch and it flows like a charm.

I've ordered camlock quick disconnects from austin homebrew (on sale for like half off!!!) and I will be installing the bobby_m site glass/thermo combo this weekend on the HLT.

 

[knightbeer39]

The wort returner/sparger looks very similar to this:

the only difference, of course, is that it's installed up at the top of the MT, and mine happens to run the opposite direction (counterclockwise). I had it made custom by bargainfittings.com--where I buy all my brewing fittings needs! (plug, plug)

 

[craigsphillips]

The wort returner/sparger looks very similar to this:

the only difference, of course, is that it's installed up at the top of the MT, and mine happens to run the opposite direction (counterclockwise). I had it made custom by bargainfittings.com--where I buy all my brewing fittings needs! (plug, plug)

Thanks, Knightbeer. I'll have to think about the bleeder valve setup, that doesn't make sense to me, yet.

Regarding the picture, where is this taken from if it isn't the MT recirculation input? Also, what does the MT recirculation connection look like on the outside of the keg at this input? What connects the elbow to the keg wall? I'd like to do this on my kettle? You don't, by chance, happen to have a parts list handy for this connection?

 

[knightbeer39]

The picture came from Bargainfittings.com; this is Wayne's whirpool setup. I just moved it up on the MT to use as a recirculater/sparger. Works like a charm.

On the outside of the keg I have a standard stainless steel ball valve and barbed nipple for the connecting hose. I am replacing the barbed nipple with camlock quick disconnects soon. The elbow you see in the picture above is connected to one side of the "threaded 1/2" nipple close", that goes through the keg all, and then connects on the outside to a ball valve. Look at this: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=94

Now instead of a diptube, its the piece pictured above. And instead of being in the bottom of the keg, its higher up on the wall of the keg. (does that help?)

For the bleeder valve set up, I just open the ball valve that is set horizontal at the pump and open the ball valve on the vessel (either the MT or the HLT, depending on what stage in brewing it is). The liquid runs from the vessel, and out the little piece of polytube going to the bucket--thus priming the pump head. Then I shut it off real quick, open the ball valve pointing up (the output) and hit the pump switch. And away it flows to its destination...

 

[craigsphillips]

The picture came from Bargainfittings.com; this is Wayne's whirpool setup. I just moved it up on the MT to use as a recirculater/sparger. Works like a charm.

On the outside of the keg I have a standard stainless steel ball valve and barbed nipple for the connecting hose. I am replacing the barbed nipple with camlock quick disconnects soon. The elbow you see in the picture above is connected to one side of the "threaded 1/2" nipple close", that goes through the keg all, and then connects on the outside to a ball valve. Look at this: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=94

Now instead of a diptube, its the piece pictured above. And instead of being in the bottom of the keg, its higher up on the wall of the keg. (does that help?)

For the bleeder valve set up, I just open the ball valve that is set horizontal at the pump and open the ball valve on the vessel (either the MT or the HLT, depending on what stage in brewing it is). The liquid runs from the vessel, and out the little piece of polytube going to the bucket--thus priming the pump head. Then I shut it off real quick, open the ball valve pointing up (the output) and hit the pump switch. And away it flows to its destination...

Thanks, knightbeer39. It helps a lot. I'd still like to see a picture of your setup inside and out and then it would be crystal clear. Any chance you have that picture or could take one. I apologize for being slower than most at this stuff.