My First Brews .... what should I look out for?

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CallMeKiupid

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As can be expected from a total Newbie and a first time Mead maker I am trying to wrap my head around it all. My query is in 2 separate and arguably unrelated parts.

Part 1
I ordered my first mead making kit from CraftABrew. It comes with Lavalin d42 and some yeast nutrient. The recipe calls for 2.5.lbs of honey. Now, I decided to use some excellent unpasteurized blueberry blossom honey and 3lbs of it instead of two.
I followed the rest of the instructions to the letter--- except obviously the extra honey meant i could not add as much water before my 1 gallon jar was full.
Also, i checked online for ideal temps for Lavalin D42 and got between 70 -78 F and i set my temps to 72F. i later found out that their instructions mentioned 64-70F so i made alterations.
Now here are the issues.
1. Its been more than 24 hours and the fermentation does not seem to be getting along. there was a thick layer of foam, almost like soap scum but thick and gloopy looking but not aggressively bubbling up the sides or anything. not like they depict in the video () after 24 hours where it is quite active.
2. Despite this above issue, i followed the next steps and topped up the batch with some nutrient and swirled it around at which point the airlock did pop a bit but there was not alot of carbon dioxide buildup and the response to the nutrient was not aggressive.
3. It's been a few hours since the nutrients and the foam is much less than it was this morning. infact it now resembles a thin line at the top and i cant tell that there is any activity.
4. In another 3 days I will have to top off the nutrients again just wondering if i can do anything to fix this.
The purpose of asking all the above is really to learn a few things, so I will come to Part 2 of my query.
Part 2
I am now prepping my subsequent attempts at brewing some mead. Personally, I am looking for a lower ABV 13% or less and sweeter in flavor profile. (Ideally even in the 3-5% range for alcohol but I am trying to start simple for now as I am still very lost). Blueberry blossom, blackberry blossom, clover, Amazon wildflower are about the only honeys available to me. And i am in the mood for blueberry.
Unlike with the ready made kit, I am putting together things to use, so below is the recipe list and alternatives/ concerns that I hope the Hive mind can help with.

1. 3lbs or more of blueberry blossom honey
2. 1lb of Fresh blueberries to be added after 2 week fermentation (these will be cooked down to kill bacteria)
3. Some fresh lemons to add after 2 week fermentation (unsure how to treat or add)
4. Cloves, cinnamon and pinch of nutmeg also at 2 week mark (unsure how to steralize if ive had them in a jar for a while)
5. PBV santizier and star san ( i ordered PBV first becuase i read a source that said it was safe to use and no rinse required but found source indicating the opposite so bought star san - which is the right info)
5. Yeast nutrients - i read alot about raisins but dont know how to sanitize them before use so I also read something about Fermade O , K and someone else. unsure how this all comes together.
6. Yeast - i have ordered some Lavlin 71b 1122 and K1-V1116 as i read that they are both slightly better suited to my purpose. the 71b will help with sweeter mead, the k1 will help with keeping bacteria out. I am also toying with the idea of using fleishmanns. but i know the choice of yeast will impact what nutrients to go with, so how does this work? I read another completely separate article about some yeast requiring water first to activate. (as you can all tell, i am very far out of my comfort zone here as baking has never been my thing and nor has mead making)
So if you were to alter the above recipe to make it easier for a first timer looking to make a sweet nectar how would you re-write it and what combinations and steps would you add?
Sorry for the long post. I appreciate all your help everyone. there are soooo many recipes and none do a job of explaining the science of temps, yeast, nutrients, and sanitation collectively, its all broken information everywhere. i see everyone talk about sanitizing but then using raisins out of a box or from a bag, or dried orange peels they made themselves and just had lying around in a jar lol. Anyways thank you Hive mind :D
 

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There's a lot there. I'm going to go for some low hanging fruit.

Raisins are not nutrients. It would require an amount measured in pounds to provide an adequate level of yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN). If an online recipe is using raisins for nutrients you are probably best served looking elsewhere.

Fermaid-K has DAP (manufactured nitrogen) plus micronutrients and minerals. Do not add this to the mead once it has fermented 2/3 or its sugars or hit 8-9%ABV. Yeast will have trouble using it and it will be left in the mead. Yuck.

Fermaid-O has organically derived nitrogen, but no micronutrients. Best used in concert with Go-Ferm which provides the micronutrients and other benefits at the yeast rehydration step.

Use (and ideally understand the philosophy of) a nutrient protocol such as BOMM, TOSNA 3.0, or TANG. Use the recommended amount of yeast, not the whole pack just because why not.

Mead batches are measured by the volume of prepared must. A gallon of 3# mead will have less water than a gallon of 2# mead. Both will be 1G in the fermenter.

Skip the bread yeast if you have proper wine yeast available.

Patience. Absolutely the most important ingredient in meadmaking. Patience in looking for signs of fermentation. Patience in wondering if it's time to rack. Patience in wondering if it's time to bottle. Most of all, patience in wondering if it's time to taste it. A mediocre mead at one month might be a show winner at a year. Or two.

Simplicity in your first few batches will help you learn to make good mead. I'd recommend picking a high-quality less expensive honey and use the same through a few batches. Don't use a bunch of flavorings. You're looking to learn how to make a clean mead with no off-flavors. Once you have that base, you can explore all the flavors you want.
 
There's a lot there. I'm going to go for some low hanging fruit.

Raisins are not nutrients. It would require an amount measured in pounds to provide an adequate level of yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN). If an online recipe is using raisins for nutrients you are probably best served looking elsewhere.

Fermaid-K has DAP (manufactured nitrogen) plus micronutrients and minerals. Do not add this to the mead once it has fermented 2/3 or its sugars or hit 8-9%ABV. Yeast will have trouble using it and it will be left in the mead. Yuck.

Fermaid-O has organically derived nitrogen, but no micronutrients. Best used in concert with Go-Ferm which provides the micronutrients and other benefits at the yeast rehydration step.

Use (and ideally understand the philosophy of) a nutrient protocol such as BOMM, TOSNA 3.0, or TANG. Use the recommended amount of yeast, not the whole pack just because why not.

Mead batches are measured by the volume of prepared must. A gallon of 3# mead will have less water than a gallon of 2# mead. Both will be 1G in the fermenter.

Skip the bread yeast if you have proper wine yeast available.

Patience. Absolutely the most important ingredient in meadmaking. Patience in looking for signs of fermentation. Patience in wondering if it's time to rack. Patience in wondering if it's time to bottle. Most of all, patience in wondering if it's time to taste it. A mediocre mead at one month might be a show winner at a year. Or two.

Simplicity in your first few batches will help you learn to make good mead. I'd recommend picking a high-quality less expensive honey and use the same through a few batches. Don't use a bunch of flavorings. You're looking to learn how to make a clean mead with no off-flavors. Once you have that base, you can explore all the flavors you want.
Thank you, this is all great. Just want to confirm a few things.

So your recommendation would be a combination of Fermaid - O and Go Ferm ( the combination of which i can re-introduce on day 2 and day 5
periodically, and im sure i can find some basic instructions for this online somewhere)

I will have to read up on BOMM, TOSNA 3.0 and TANG. none of this came up in my search on how to create mead.

When you say #3 and #2 mead, is that in reference to the respective poundage of honey used (3lbs and 2lbs)?

Understood on the bread yeast, was curious to use it as JAO's recipe called for it and City Steading Brews also recommends it.

Thank you for the guidance, this is all very useful and sets a few things straight for me
 
Go-Ferm at rehydration. Fermaid-O for nutrition in a staggered manner. I follow the TANG protocol which is really TOSNA 3.0 with the rehydration Go-Ferm included in the YAN calculations. Especially important for low gravity meads.

Yes. # = lb

JAOMs require a lot of time to be palatable. Joe himself in interviews has described his recipe as (paraphrasing here) doing everything wrong and letting time fix it.
 
Go-Ferm at rehydration. Fermaid-O for nutrition in a staggered manner. I follow the TANG protocol which is really TOSNA 3.0 with the rehydration Go-Ferm included in the YAN calculations. Especially important for low gravity meads.

Yes. # = lb

JAOMs require a lot of time to be palatable. Joe himself in interviews has described his recipe as (paraphrasing here) doing everything wrong and letting time fix it.
Awesome. Okay so Fermaid - O day one- day two day 5 or whatever as per the methodology i am following.
Go Ferm - what do you mean by rehydration, i havent come across this term or process yet in my research. I am assuming once i read up on TANG, YAN, TOSAN and SUSAN or whoever else, then i will figure it out :D
The closest thing ive come across that sounds like it is, after 2 weeks of fermentation to add fruit and potassium bicarbonate to stabilize. Which is the plan for now.
 
Okay thank you for all the responses. I am starting a second batch using TOSNA 3.0.
Seems like i have everything i need. Fermade O and Go Ferm as well.
I was curious though, is there no nutrient added on day one in this method? I believe it is after 24, 48, 72 hours and then ad 1/3rd sugar break/ 7 days.
Is no nutrient required for the first 24 hours?
 
There's nitrogen in the Go-Ferm, but I typically add my Fermaid-O at 0, 24, 48, 72. Seems to work well. I also keep the temp down. 60F with K1-V1116.
Alright, so your tweak is you dont add anything at 1/3rd sugar break/ 7 days mark. but you use k1-v116. i also have that but from my research i will first try to 71b. thank you for the input.
 
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