Multiple Noob Questions!

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Donutz

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First, I'm on my second batch! Will the Noob Questions ever end??? Or even after brewing for years do questions pop up in your head?!?!?

My first real question is, when I was using the hydrometer, I would take it and spray it down with some sanstar and drop it in the fermenter bucket (prior to adding yeast) to check the OG. After watching a few videos about this, I saw where they put the wort in a tube to the top. Then added the hydrometer to this and took a reading. I just tried this and there was bubbles all around the hydrometer. I tried spinning it and I tried removing it and putting it back in. I also tried blowing on it. Nothing worked...so I took my reading as close as I could. So, the main questions are... Why don't people put the hydrometer in the bucket? Also, when the bubbles are around the hydrometer, how do you get an accurate reading/what do you do to get rid of the bubbles??

#2) I did a 2 gallon boil yesterday (24 hours ago). I put it in the fermenter bucket with 2 gallons of spring water that I had in the freezer (trying to get it as cold as possible. It didn't come down to temperature after 3 hours and I had to get to bed for work. I woke up and it still wasn't quite down (it was at 82 degrees). I didn't want to pitch the yeast at this temp in fear of killing it (safale US-05). I left for work and when I got home it was perfect... but 24 hours had passed. After this, I do want to look at a wort chiller or look up other ideas on how to chill it. Questions are, Is it bad to let the wort sit for so long? What is an average cool down time??

Lastly, On my last batch, I pitched the yeast. After 4 days and the airlock slowed down, I had to move the bucket. After moving it, the airlock sped back up again. Is it a good idea to move the bucket or open it and stir it or anything along those lines to make sure the yeast or still going...or after the airlock stops?

Thank you ahead of time for the answers!
 
#1 There are a few reasons not to, and everyone would probably have their own favorite reason not to, but in no particular order of importance:
Sticking your grimey hands that close to a full batch of unfermented beer is bad
What if the hydrometer suddenly explodes in your beer? (heh)
You don't get a very accurate reading looking down at the hydrometer
Test tubes are cool
Some of us ferment in carboys and Better Bottles where this couldn't be done, so we're going to have the test tube anyways
It's not worth risking any harm to the entire batch
Knowing how to use the test tube well makes it easier

But some people do the in-the-bucket thing anyways.

As far as bubbles, I fill the test tube to the very top so when I drop the hydrometer in it overflows (it's on a plate) and pushes any bubbles over the edge. Al alternative is just to let it sit for a long while and the bubbles might go away.

#2 It's generally considered best to chill it as quickly as possible unless you have the equipment (and recipe) for "no chill" brewing, in which 12-24 hour cooldown is fine. Chilling the boiled wort while still in the pot by placing it in the sink with water running down the side, or in an ice bath, and stirring the wort is best. Then when it's in a reasonable range (think 2G of 85F wort + 2G of 45F water = 4G of 65F wort) you can add the chilled water. With plate chillers, immersion chillers, counterflow chillers, etc, it's common to see 10-30 minutes for chilling to pitchable temperatures depending on the amount of hot liquid you're starting with.

#3 Really, airlock activity is not a reasonable measure of fermentation or yeast activity. Stirring can release suspended CO2, as can moving the carboy, making it bubble. Warming it up will make the liquid and gas expand, making the airlock bubble. The airlock is just a safe pressure release system, not a fermentation measurement tool. That's what the hydrometer is for.
Opening and stirring is not advised. Time, patience, and reasonable expectations are!

Happy brewing! :)

Edit:
 
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As far as bubbles, I fill the test tube to the very top so when I drop the hydrometer in it overflows (it's on a plate) and pushes any bubbles over the edge. Al alternative is just to let it sit for a long while and the bubbles might go away.

I actually did the test tube method this time and filled it to the top. I then dropped they hydrometer into it letting it spill over and I still had bubbles all glued up against the hydrometer... I guess it may have been since I just sprayed the hydrometer down with san star!!! Sanitation is #1!!! LOL
 
Hahaha yeah that starsan foam will stick around for sure. That's another reason to use the separate test tube- you don't need it sanitized if you pull the sample right.
 
Ahhh, the straw method!!!! I never thought of that!!!

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Spinning the hydrometer in the tube can help a little, I usually just set the sample aside while I do something else and the bubbles are gone by the time I get to it.

I have often waited overnight before pitching and have not had any problems with it. It's not ideal, but if you're careful about sanitation, keep your wort covered as much as possible post boil, etc, it doesn't take extraordinary measures.

According to some, a quick chill will also help get a clearer beer in the end (I don't remember for sure whether this is a confirmed phenomenon or a possibly true superstition; I think it is true, though). However, I can't say I have noticed any big difference since obtaining a wort chiller. I am patient with my beers, though, so they tend to get lots of time for sediment to settle out.
 
At this point, I could care less if they look like mud!!! I just want them to taste ok!!! Once I can get through a couple of batches where they come out good and taste fairly decent...then I will start working on more stuff like clarity. I was extra careful in the sanitation department. I had the lid sealed on tight (which I sprayed with Star San before putting it on the bucket)!! Everything now gets hit with star san before I even get near the brew!
 
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