Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

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I want to boiling a batch of this is everybody still using the original recipe on the first page--
 
Will this work? It sure doesn't smell good.

1415483547520.jpg
 
Schlenkerla said:
I would not use something that's potentially bad in your beer.
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I dont think its bad, the shop kept it refrigerated. I just assumed this enzyme had a little funky smell to it. Racking to the secondary on it definitely kicked off another fermentation
 
Getting ready to brew this one. I have both Safale US-05 and Saflager s-23 on hand, as well as the AE. I can ferment in the high 50's... is there any benefit to using the s-23 or should I just take the tried and true route of the US-05? I would prefer a quicker turn around on this to bring to a party in mid Feb.

Thanks...Cheers!
 
My 2 cents,

The quicker yeast would be the ale yeast. You already know this....

If you have 8-12 weeks then the ale yeast would work.

All depends if you want to lager. I don't think it's needed with the AE.

My personal opinion as the OP is to use the ale yeast. Drop in the AE after a week.

Time permitting use the lager. Do so without a deadline.
 
I went with the S-23 out of curiousity. Pitched at 56 and at after 8 hours was bubbling away at 60. After it gets down to 1.010 I'm going to pitch the AE, leave for another couple of days at 60 and then move to my garage where I believe it will settle in the low 40's and take it from there. It's kind of an experiment to determine least amount of time grain to glass for a lager.
 
Haven't had a chance to look over all pages, have brewed this many times note with great success, it's become my summer beer, and if I could ever brew enough my all the time beer. Had anyone ever subbed m.o. for 2-row? I have #20 of mo and if I didn't need to purchase 2 row that would be great. But if I do then I will. Planning on a 24 gallon batch this Saturday, love it at apart 87% eff the grain bill is still under 25 lbs! Id appreciate any and all feedback!
Cheers
 
PleasantValleyHops said:
Haven't had a chance to look over all pages, have brewed this many times note with great success, it's become my summer beer, and if I could ever brew enough my all the time beer. Had anyone ever subbed m.o. for 2-row? I have #20 of mo and if I didn't need to purchase 2 row that would be great. But if I do then I will. Planning on a 24 gallon batch this Saturday, love it at apart 87% eff the grain bill is still under 25 lbs! Id appreciate any and all feedback!
Cheers
Click to expand...

If you like this beer, try this one. Its in my drop down too.

http://www.malt.io/users/jedouglas429/recipes/grillindere-ale
 
Welp, I have been eyeballing this recipe for awhile. I had ordered a new setup, upgraded to a 10 gallon system. Just finished brewing it just now.

To start, I have to say. Guys, if you are in the market for a new brew kettle, Spike Brewing Pots are awesome!!! No weldless bulkheads! They weld theirs and do a nice job on them, these pots are much heavier on the sides, no flex at all. Very sturdy, the bottoms are not tri-clad, they explain why and it makes since. If we were cooking a stew a thick clad bottom would be important to stop sticking and scorching. Thick bottoms capture heat in the metal, its slow to transfer to the wort. If your burner isn't a stronger one, it can be tough to get clad ones up to a boil quickly. For commercial brewery grade Stainless, 2 welded ports one for thermometer one for drain valve, its a deal, especially at $180 shipped free.

So, I put about 8.5 gallons in my 10 gallon kettle. Brought it to a boil quickly, the lid fits tight, real tight. Drained a couple gallons in my 10 gallon cooler to preheat it. After about 15 minutes I dumped the water out, knew the grain would absorb a gallon so I drained 4.85 gallons into my mash tun, water was 161F, mashed in and stirred a bit to get the temp down, it was 153f I wanted 150f I decided to do a 50-50 sparge, the brew calc wanted me to mash in with 2 gallons. I figured a 10 gallon cooler would have trouble holding mash temps an hour with just 2 gallons strike water. So, once at 150F closed it up, wrapped in a old bed spread and waited 60 minutes. It had dropped to 147F after 60 minutes, good enough for me. Drained into a spare pot and set it aside. Those runnings were 1.030, had heated up more water while waiting, got it to 168F, drained 3.85 gallons into the tun and stirred a bunch to get the sugars out. Closed it up, waited about 15 minutes while weighing up hops and getting whirlfloc. Drained the tun and got 3.75 gallons, it had a sg of 1.015 combined the two runnings into my kettle, sg 1.020 Boiled 90 minutes. First hop was supposed to be at 60, but I forgot, so I added at 45 minutes. Checked brew calc and it said the 45 min. addition would drop IBU to 10.6 so I planned to add flame out hop addition 1 minute early, that would add back .8 ibu for a total of 11.4 and get me back in range for this style of beer. With 15 to go I put my wort chiller in the pot to sterilize and added a whirlfloc tablet. With 1 minute to go I added the early flame out hops, 1.0 oz of Hallertau Mittlefruh.

I have several friends that haven't liked any of my Beers, they don't appreciate Hops very much. I recently made a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and left out the dry hops and cut back on late addition hops to try and make a decent brew they would like. It was still to hoppy. They didn't like Cascade, said it was too citrusy. I let'em try a Lagunita Lil' Sumpin clone I made. Nailed it if I might say so myself! It might as well be the real thing. I told'em THAT is citrus!! They didn't care for it either. Too much like Grapefruit they said. Some people just don't like change. I would hate to only like BMC beer. So boring.

Anyway's, back to the brew. I moved the kettle to the sink, got wort chiller going and I got out 8 20oz Sprite Bottles I keep frozen for cooling wort. Put them in sanitizer for a few minutes while I used the wort chiller to stir the wort and cool it as efficiently as possible. It dropped to 110F pretty fast, I got the bottles out of the sanitizer and added to the kettle. Stirred with a spoon to keep water moving around and it dropped the wort to 68F in no time. I checked my FG and it was 1.030 adjusted for temp. It was dead on. While it was chilling I had poured the sanitizer in my carboy and drained. Racked the wort to the carboy splashing vigorously to aerate. Had some washed US-05 from a previous ale, made a 1.3 liter starter day prior. Got my erlenmeyer and poured off the cleared wort, added a bit of the new wort and swirled to get the yeast suspended, poured into the carboy, capped it up and shook the hell out of it for 15 minutes give or take. Put on a blow off tube run to a jar of sanitizer. Within 5 minutes it was bubbling once every 4 seconds. That gets us caught up to now. I will keep posting until it finishes.

Grain Weight 6lb
Grain Temp 68°F
Total Boil Time 90 minutes
Wort Into Fermenter 5 gallons
Target Mash Temp 150°F
Mash Thickness 3.0qt/lb
Equipment Profile 10 gallon kettle, 10 gallon round cooler with false bottom

Brew Kettle Trub Loss 1 gallons
Wort Shrinkage .2 gallons
Mash Tun Loss .25 gallons
Boil Loss 1 gallons/hour
Grain Absorption 0.15 gallons/lb
Sparge Grain Absorption .01 gallons/lb

Calculated Totals
Runoff Volume 7.20 gallons
Total Water Needed 8.16 gallons
Mash/Strike Volume 4.75 gallons
1st Runnings 3.85 gallons
Sparge Volume 3.41 gallons
Strike Temperature 155.18 °F

MASH / BOIL

Mash PH n/a PH
Mash Start Temp 150°F
Mash End Temp 147°F
Mash Time 60 minutes

Boil
Pre-Boil Gravity 1.022
Boil Volume 7.5 gallons (6.85 gallons estimated)
Boil Time 90 minutes (90 minutes estimated)
Post-Boil Volume 6

Volume in Fermenter 5.0 gallons (5.00 gallons estimated)
Original Gravity 1.032 (1.033 predicted)
Final Gravity n/a (1.006 predicted)
 
Your beer should turn out good. The beer will be pretty acceptable to your BMC buddies. Any respectable homebrewer will know how much of a challenge it is to make a flawless light beer. The late hopping will be appreciated by the latter too.

Make sure to add the AE in the secondary. It will dry the beer out to 1.000 to 1.002. Let it sit for a time chilled afterwards. The AE leaves a parched dryness that dissipates after a few weeks chilled/lagered. When you have it lagered for a bit it will by crystal clear and very crisp tasting with an ever so subtle hop taste. It will be like the old 70's style beer (PBR-like in aroma) but lighter in mouth feel and flavor. I think you will be shocked at how great your beer is tasting....

Report back with photos of your beer in a nice pilsner glass. :mug:

Do you keg? I do and I use 14psi at about 42F for this beer.
 
So, I got about 12 or more pages through this thread and I really want to try this brew. I did not find any thing about a smaller all grain batch.
My question would be...has any body tried a smaller 3 gallon all grain batch? If not, would you have any recommendations on making a smaller batch?
 
J-Schraders-craftings said:
So, I got about 12 or more pages through this thread and I really want to try this brew. I did not find any thing about a smaller all grain batch.

My question would be...has any body tried a smaller 3 gallon all grain batch? If not, would you have any recommendations on making a smaller batch?
Click to expand...


Multiply everything by 3/5 and round up. You'll have Miler Lite.

P.S. You can buy Miller Lite. Make it yours.
 
J-Schraders-craftings said:
So, I got about 12 or more pages through this thread and I really want to try this brew. I did not find any thing about a smaller all grain batch.
My question would be...has any body tried a smaller 3 gallon all grain batch? If not, would you have any recommendations on making a smaller batch?
Click to expand...

Take the recipe and put it in this recipe database. www.malt.io

Then scale the recipe accordingly.

Are you normally an All Grain brewer?

If not, I can direct you to a very simple light beer recipe.
 
Schlenkerla said:
Take the recipe and put it in this recipe database. www.malt.io

Then scale the recipe accordingly.

Are you normally an All Grain brewer?

If not, I can direct you to a very simple light beer recipe.
Click to expand...

I have just recently started brewing all grain and would like to stay all grain. I'm looking for a good brew that I can share with my not so adventurous friends. I've done two batches so far and have had relatively good success. Simple and fool proof would be a good one for me to pass out for friends.
 
This is an easy recipe to make, satisfies most BMC drinkers.

You should make it with German or Czech hops for them. BMC'rs.

BMC-Bud, Miller, Coors drinkers-

The home brewer crowd would appreciate a citrus hop version of this beer.

I made this with German hops, and American Pale Ale hops.

I like both, have leaning towards using sorachi ace thou. Adds a lemon hop taste without using lemon. Really good for lawn mowing refreshment.
 
Didn't go thru all the pages but was curious if anyone has had to add acid malt or lactic to help bring down the mash ph in such a light beer, i've been experimenting with my water profile and water additions, main reason being i have been noticing slight astringency on my lighter beers since switching to BiaB

I just brewed a 80/20 pilsner malt and corn cream ale over the weekend, used around 3.5 oz of acid malt, most on the forums are saying the lactic is below taste threshold but finishing around 1.000 i would be weary
 
Question for you... I have been making the AHA recipe for Champagne Lager for years. But sometimes, when I don't oxygenate enough, the beer finishes sweet...

Do you think this process with AE would work for that recipe? I cant see any reason why it wouldn't... But then again after making your beer I cant see any reason to keep making the Champagne Lager either.

Question #2 Have you tried making a slightly maltier version of this beer? maybe Maris Otter? thinking this is a great method for making a premium american style too...?

Thanks in advance for your input. BTW thanks also for the post on wild yeast cultures. I am having fun with that right now. Turns out we have some great wild stuff here in Kansas. Who would have guessed? I have a Wild Farm house ill be brewing soon.
 
Yes, think AE in the secondary for a beer that's too sweet would do the job quite well.

I've done the AE on extract amber and dark. Both turned out great. Both beers with 3.3lbs of extract and a pound of honey. They were much like a Killians and Michelob Amber Bock.
 
Thanks for your response. I am brewing a batch this weekend. I added AE to secondary on a blonde ale I had going, Fermentation picked right back up again.

Trying to make a beer that SWMBO will love. She's a miller lite girl. But she does love my ciders and mead.

Can you give a suggestion on the best hops to use to replicate Miller Lite?
And then also your favorite hops for this?

Sorry for all the questions, but the thread is so long, I haven't read all the way through, and I figured I'd rather just learn from your experience rather than experiment with this one.
 
lazarwolf said:
Can you give a suggestion on the best hops to use to replicate Miller Lite?
And then also your favorite hops for this?
Click to expand...

Use Hallertauer or Saaz. Hop to 16-18 IBU. Hallertauer is best IMHO.

One note about AE that I always tell first users. Right after its done the beer will have a parched and slightly acrid taste. This is normal. Let it chill or bottle for a week. After this brief lagering-rest it will be very clean and crisp.
 
Pretty much verbatim of what I posted. Except for the yeast.

They failed to site a source. Like Charlie Papazian. I also bet Miller doesn't user cascade.

That was my twist. More than five years ago.

Anyhow, good to see it proliferated.
 
Schlenkerla said:
Yes, think AE in the secondary for a beer that's too sweet would do the job quite well.

I've done the AE on extract amber and dark. Both turned out great. Both beers with 3.3lbs of extract and a pound of honey. They were much like a Killians and Michelob Amber Bock.
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Well it worked... It dropped to 1.008 so far. Thanks for the help, the beer is so much better now.

I also brewed your recipe. I call it Miller the Muggle... hopefully it will keep the beer muggles who show up at my house from drinking my good stuff.
 
lazarwolf said:
Well it worked... It dropped to 1.008 so far. Thanks for the help, the beer is so much better now.

I also brewed your recipe. I call it Miller the Muggle... hopefully it will keep the beer muggles who show up at my house from drinking my good stuff.
Click to expand...

Thats good. Tell me how turns out for you. :mug:
 
question, how long does it take for the acrid after taste to fade away. Should i go ahead and bottle up the batch you helped me save or will that preserve the acrid taste?
 
Best thing is to bottle and chill. It's usually two weeks. Then the beer is pretty crisp and clean by that time.

Time fixes just about everything.

I think you'll be surprised how awesome your beer will be.
 
The beer is pretty good. I opted to use Hallertau, but I didn't use the AE. I regretted the decision as the beer ended up being a little heavy for most BMC style drinkers. Next round, I will use the AE and will use cascade. I also didn't dry hop with the Hallertau, just did 0.5 oz at flameout instead.
 
jdubdvdt said:
The beer is pretty good. I opted to use Hallertau, but I didn't use the AE. I regretted the decision as the beer ended up being a little heavy for most BMC style drinkers. Next round, I will use the AE and will use cascade. I also didn't dry hop with the Hallertau, just did 0.5 oz at flameout instead.
Click to expand...

I'd repeat what you did but add the AE. I don't always dry hop.

Next round do the hallertauer and AE. Reserve the cascade for next spring.
 
Can anyone tell me what effect adding the Amylase in secondary is?

I never secondary my beers, but leave them in primary for 1 - 2 months.

If I pitch the Amylase in primary with the yeast, does this matter? Whats the deal?
 
Alpha-Amylase is an enzyme that breaks down complex sugars in the mash. At room temperature it works much slower, but it converts carbs to fermentable sugar. It will lower your terminal gravity (since there are still yeast present )and eventually you get a beer with no body, like miller lite. Yeah,I don't know what difference it would make, primary vs. secondary.
 
rmyurick said:
Alpha-Amylase is an enzyme that breaks down complex sugars in the mash. At room temperature it works much slower, but it converts carbs to fermentable sugar. It will lower your terminal gravity (since there are still yeast present )and eventually you get a beer with no body, like miller lite. Yeah,I don't know what difference it would make, primary vs. secondary.
Click to expand...

It's would be cleaner and the AE would only have to convert the left over complex sugars.

People have done it both ways. I prefer to do it in the secondary for clarity.
 
Schlenkerla said:
It's would be cleaner and the AE would only have to convert the left over complex sugars.

People have done it both ways. I prefer to do it in the secondary for clarity.
Click to expand...

I never secondary, but I will probably drop the AE in primary @ 7days, and see what happens. The beer had great clarity last time with no AE for 14 days. Do you typically add it similar to adding gelatin? (sterile water solution, only a few ounces of water).
 

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