megapot 1.2 mash tun pick up

[fadedgiant04]

so I am a proud owner of a 20 gallon megapot with ball valve, thermometer, and full false bottom.

I intend to do use RIMS on my single tier beer stand that I am currently building. The false bottom is above the bulkhead for the ball valve

My question is, what is the best way to draw a suction to recirculate and sparge? I am thinking its going to be a circular steel braid kind of thing, but I am wondering if someone has done it in a better way.

Thanks

 

[fadedgiant04]

Any help is appreciated.


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[Komocabo]

A pic might help. If the false bottom is above the valve bulkhead you will have a TON of dead space... I have a kettle mashtun and have a dip tube running from my ball valve through the middle of the false bottom. As long as there is wort above the valve, you can start suction, but the output hose (from your ball valve) must be below the the lowest point of your mashtun. Gravity is your friend for suction.

Also, you will probably want/need a pump.

 

[fadedgiant04]

current setup. Adding another pump after I get another pot, so I can fly sparge. Also painting soon, then automation.


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[fadedgiant04]

Dead space shouldn't matter much while doing RIMS. And a 20 gallon pot should be overkill for most OG.


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[fadedgiant04]

I'll probably plumb a simple pickup in the center as close as I can get to bottom, just looking for other ideas.


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[Komocabo]

Nice set-up. That pot is awesome! I would definitely do the dip tube. Works like a champ for me. I use 5/8" dip tubes from bobby_M at Brew hardware. Great stuff.

 

[fadedgiant04]

And it fits under the false bottom?


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[Jaybird]

Just use a street 90. Simple and CHEEP! like this you can always add a close nipple like this if you need to

Cheers
Jay

 

[fadedgiant04]

Yeah that looks good. Now I just need the right length nipple to take the elbow to the center for evenly distributed sparge flow through the grain bed.


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[30Bones]

Yeah that looks good. Now I just need the right length nipple to take the elbow to the center for evenly distributed sparge flow through the grain bed.


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Why does it matter if it's in the center? The out is the out no matter where it is in the bottom of the kettle? It's not like you are working with a dished bottom keggle. Plus leaving a little wort behind is not the end of the world.

 

[fadedgiant04]

the wort/sparge water will flow unbalanced through the grain bed, therefore either causing uneven mash temp profile during the recirc, or uneven grain rinsing during the sparge.


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[fadedgiant04]

I guess the magnitude of the flow instability might be negligible though.


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[Jaybird]

You are NEVER going to see it! You might want a stand under that false bottom for stability. But the drain, you'll never know if it was pulled from the center or the side at our level.

Cheers
Jay

 

[rodduley]

I have the same pot and share a similar concern with the OP about drawing from the side vs from the center. Are you saying that there will be"NO"channeling or redirection of the wort recirculation and sparge water?

 

[fadedgiant04]

I think he is saying that you won't see any change in the mash numbers.


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[fadedgiant04]

But it would drive me crazy if I didn't put it in the center


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[Jaybird]

I think he is saying that you won't see any change in the mash numbers.


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I am.. I have done a few tests on side pick up vs center. And I understand the driving you crazy thing! BUT I would see well less than a 2% difference in the efficiency of the mash and this could come from just about anything really. I do stir my mash about 1/2 way through just the top 1/3 of the grain bed, I always have. I Fly Sparge and "SHOOT" for 60 min sparge. At the 30 min mark I do stir a little. I think it makes the difference in the efficiency and wort quality.

Just my .02 guys and my experience.

Cheers
Jay