Mash Tun Help

[eurc51]

I'm working on the design of my mash tun for all-grain brewing based on the John Palmer book (i.e. website), and there is one detail that I'm having trouble with. The Palmer method for using a picnic cooler as the mash tun calls for copper piping along the bottom of the cooler to extract the wort. I understand that the pipes need to have slots for the wort to drain through, but I'm not sure how wide they should be - or how to make them. Can you buy copper pipe with the slots already cut? If so, what size slots should I be looking for. Or, do I need to cut the slots myself - and again - how? and how wide?

Thanks,

E

 

[eriktlupus]

these need to be cut by you......and the hacksaw blade is a perfect width about every 1/4-1/2 inch ,1/3 to halfway thru

 

[pfgonzo]

That piping is also called the "manifold." I read the book a couple of times before I knew what he was talking about when he used that term.

 

[Orfy]

Take a look in the equipment/DIY forum. Lots of how to threads.

 

[Bobby_M]

And if that seems to be too much DIY for your taste, AND you plan to batch sparge, you'd be better off going with the stainless braid per Flyguy's plans. See the DIY forum.

 

[Sumo]

If you are batch sparging just use a steel braid. Get one from a dishwasher or use a bazooka screen. I use a bazooka screen with the dishwasher braid over it. I can open the ball valve full bore and its crystal clean every time. The braid in itself is enough however with the bazooka screen I don't have to worry about crushing the braid or moving it around when I stirring 25lbs of grain.

 

[Saccharomyces]

Can't see them in the pic but I have slots every 1/2" on the bottom. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut the slots because a hack saw wasn't working very well. The tubing is 3/4" copper.

I couldn't find suitable neoprene washers so I made my own by cutting up a pair of kitchen gloves. Worked like a champ. The oversized washers you need for the bulkhead can be found at an auto parts store. All the other parts are available at a blue or orange big box hardware store.

Once you get everything together be sure to do a few dry runs where you pretend you are going to dough in, and measure the temp loss you get. Every cooler is different and you need to be able to compensate for the heat loss by heating your strike water hotter than a software tool calls for.

The wiki and FlyGuy's thread are good references for all the other details. Keep in mind right now copper is very expensive. That manifold in the photo cost me $90 to build. Unless you really REALLY want to be able to fly sparge, you are probably better off starting with the braid.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

I went with a round cooler, but instead of slots I opted to drill 1/16" holes. Works well, I can drain the work fairly fast if desired and it clears up in about 2 quarts. I connected the copper pipe to the ball valve with two 45 degree connectors so the manifold lies on the bottom of the MLT. This helps drain every last bit of wort from the tun. With ball valve, the hardware was under $20 at the Homes Depot.

 

[Shonuff]

I have a copper manifold that I built myself. To cut the slots I first tried to use a hacksaw but it didn't work so well. Then I used those little copper tubbing cutters that you rotate around the tubing to cut it. I only rotated half-way around to cut the slots.

Using my method was a huge pain in the ass. It took me a few days to do it because I kept developing blisters and my hands would cramp up and bleed.

Other than that it works like a charm now.

 

[pfgonzo]

Using my method was a huge pain in the ass. It took me a few days to do it because I kept developing blisters and my hands would cramp up and bleed.

Other than that it works like a charm now.

But dammit, at the end of the day you did make beer! I salute you sir!

 

[Baron ken]

...Using my method was a huge pain in the ass. It took me a few days to do it because I kept developing blisters and my hands would cramp up and bleed.

I applaud your dedication!

 

[Shonuff]

I applaud your dedication!

Yeah, well, I came to the point where I was going to give up. I went to Home Depot to buy parts for a cpvc manifold but couldn't find the right joints so I just went home and continued the painful task.

 

[hopsalot]

El Cheapo Mash Tun, Google it...

 

[pfgonzo]

Real quick... is a bazooka a specialty piece of equipment, or something I can get from Home Depot?

I've seen "bazookas" for sale at various home brewing websites, and one (http://www.homebrewery.com/beer/beer-screens.shtml) even advertises several adapters. There's, unfortunately, no real description for these items. If I were using a rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler, would I need one of these adapters?

Is the "T" version better than the regular one?

Thanks!