Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?

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ultravista

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I mash in a bag (MIAB) not a full BIAB. The process is mash in the bag, drain, batch sparge with about a gallon of hot water, drain again - then let the bag drain (with some squeezing) while the wort is in the kettle and heating.

Because I let the bag drain, I end-up with about 1 gallon of wort which leads to a longer boil time as the batch is over target volume.

The BIAB profiles require approximately 1 gallon less that a batch sparge profile when playing with the profiles. I've tried tweaking the BIAB profiles to require a gallon less pre-boil but I can't get it quite right.

So, is there a MIAB profile that may do what I need OR a helpful push in the right direction to create my own?

Hope this makes sense ...
 
You have nearly the ideal situation for hitting your pre-boil amount. Mash, drain into a pot where you can measure the runoff, add the remaining necessary water to the saturated grains, drain into pot. If you are a little short, squeeze some out of the grains. Once you have done it a few times you will know how much water to add for sparging so you can end up with just the right amount.
 
I've been using the same process for a while now, numerous batches. Each has been over target by ~ 1 gallon. It's been driving me crazy. Nearly every brew sheet has notes about > target volume and longer boil times.

Leaving a gallon behind with a decent gravity is hard to do, it doesn't make sense.

Tweaking the absorption to parallel BIAB makes sense as it's sort-of what I am doing minus the bag in the kettle.

For one batch of porter, I boiled a gallon of 1.040 1st runnings to about a cup of super high gravity wort - so high, it was off the refractometer scale. It tasted great and I added it to the kettle near the end of the boil.
 
If you know the calculations are off for your system why do you keep following them? As you mentioned, you can change the absorption to the actual BIAB value (there is no option for BIAB with sparge, so sparge profiles use the regular absorption). Or since it's always a gallon over you can just ignore BS and use a gallon less each time. Or like many folks use Priceless brewing's BIAB calculator for the water volumes. Do something though.
 
As a BIAB'er, I would suggest you continue what you mentioned about boiling down the runoff. That way you are adding less liquid volume and still utilizing all that glorious wort you have collected. You could boil it down to a cup or two as you suggested or only boil until you are close to your targeted pre-boil gravity and add it in at that point. You will still be off but by less.

Also, I thought I would mention that if you are hitting your pre-boil volume, you could consider not adding in all the sparge wort. I can understand the desire to use all the sugar possible from the grains but you may be making things harder for yourself in an attempt at max efficiency. No judgment from me as I'm oft-criticized by my friends/loved ones for focusing too much on efficiency.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck!
 
why dont you use the "extra" wort for starters? either boil them in a separate pot while your main brew is going on, or set them aside to boil later while you're cleaning.

i keep about 5-6 yeasts going by doing something similar. i BIAB + dunk sparge. have a second pot for dunk sparge, which goes into kettle. then i fill it up again with hot water to dunk sparge for a second time. sits for a good hour, i stir it around a bit, drain, measure gravity and boil to something approximating 40 points. easy peasy.

also works well to rehydrate dry yeast if you add some cool water to drop them temps.
 
Great responses all. I hadn't thought about saving the wort for starters, that's a great idea actually.

It's hard to leave it behind.

I have since adjusted the BS profile to use the BIAB settings for non-BIAB brewing. We'll see how it goes.
 
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