Long time brewer going eBIAB

[GreenDragon]

So my pub shed is near completion, I'll post pics later on in a different forum. I purposely ran 220 out to it so that I could switch to eBIAB. Well the drywall and wall paper are up, the exhaust fan is wired, and it's finally time to do this. I'm excited to finally be able to brew in my pub, in air conditioning, while watching TV

Like many of my projects I'm going with the KISS model at first and then I'll add on as time goes by. Right now I just want something to control the power on the element. I wanted to go with something like this:

https://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Electric-Kettle-Controller-386p3084.htm

But that seems expensive for something so basic. I've scoured these forums and I think I found something that will work. Could I get a few stamps of approval on this:

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-controller-kit.html

I have a thermometer already installed below the basket, I digital one would be nice but I need to keep costs down for now. My pump is already on a remote switch. I plan to dial in the heat with the Potentiometer and cycle my pump on/off with my remote to recirculate the mash.

Thoughts? Any obvious issues?

 

[ccbadd]

I have one of the Still Dragon kits and it works find. Only thing I would change is to use a larger external heat sink.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

If your building you brew pub I would think you could build a controller on the cheap? Is that an option? If so you could build a 30A 5500W with digital PID for less than the controller you listed.

 

[GreenDragon]

If your building you brew pub I would think you could build a controller on the cheap? Is that an option? If so you could build a 30A 5500W with digital PID for less than the controller you listed.

Wow, really? Have a link to the plans? I'm dangerously competent with wiring. I ran 100 ft of 8-3, installed a sub breaker box, and wired all the outlets and lights but I'll need a fairly detailed instructions to feel safe.

Also, since I ran 8-3 and not 6-3 I'm limited to 40A so I was thinking of going with a 4500 element to make sure there's plenty of juice left to run my small AC unit (it gets hot in the summer here in KS). I'm guessing it will work fine with a lower watt element?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I built mine from the help here and that's all I know.The other gurus here will get you built.Here is a link to many wiring guidelines,as far as parts youll need a pid with manual mode.The Mypin TD4 is the cheaper option available.A 40A SSR,Large heatsink(ebay),a homedepot light switch,and emergency stop button is all you need for a basic controller.Its really a very easy project once you figure out your specific wiring.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...ds-cse&usg=AFQjCNFre5blvClddmXsg3iUrgHFZuqKNw

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Heres my controller.A perfect example of a bare bones controller that makes me awesome beer. And its portable in a Dewalt palm sander box

 

[doug293cz]

Here's a design I put together for someone else on HBT. I think the best controller currently available for eBIAB is the Auber DSPR110. It has a combined PID like (but not PID algorithm) function, plus knob controlled linear power control for boiling. You can run 5500W eBIAB with a 30A circuit.



Brew on

 

[The_Bishop]

I'll second Doug's advice. The DSPR 110 is an awesome controller for eBIAB.

 

[applescrap]

For $280 I chose the Jaeger bush. Just like you I looked forever and ever and ever. He uses all top quality parts it has the plug for the pump , and potentiometer which I wanted to control boiling and is little. Honestly when you start looking at high quality parts from auber inst. I can't remember the exact number but you don't save that much money. And no offense to anybody but some of these monstrosities I see I just don't care for. I like the little ones but if you're going to be set up in the shed a big one might not be a problem and you could probably save a hundred bucks. I would buy the good parts at auber, and they're really cool folk 2. They have kits you can build as well, you can definitely get cheaper parts and and build it for less money. I was happy to just pay the 280 and have it ready to go. I bailed on the recirculating part and I'm glad I did. I didn't even install my probe in the kettle. Although it would be nice because it takes an accurate temperature. Remember the PID won't work without it, silly flaw really. You don't need a potentiometer because the PID in manual mode has a control for the element if you get the right PID. If I am correct Bob Brews and all the other biab guys dont recirculate, people will tell you all day long that Mash temperature matters but it doesn't as much as it may seem and in the winter in 32 degrees I only lose 3 or 4 degrees on the mash. If you get an element and a controller you can always add the pump later. Find some of my threads on my build and Brewing and you will see my setup. Happy brewing

 

[daveMN]

I made a controller similar to doug293cz's design, but with a different PID. It was a fun project. I have a 4500 w element with no boil control though. I lose an extra .4 gals per hour. If you haven't thought about ventilation for all the moisture, that's a consideration as well.

 

[Hommel]

i made a similar move to eBIAB indoors a bit over a year ago. I started on a DIY build but then moved to a colorado brewing systems kettle a few months ago. still using my original controller which has been working awesome. Here is the original build with a write up on each part including the controller build:
http://www.hommelhomebrew.com/?p=57

he is my more recent writeup on my move to the co brewing system ebiab but it shows a video with the controller in use:
http://www.hommelhomebrew.com/?p=324

 

[Swamproad]

I have been using a controller built with a 40 amp SSR and a 470K potentiometer for the last 4 years. Works great the the two parts with the heatsink were less than $20.

 

[applescrap]

I have been using a controller built with a 40 amp SSR and a 470K potentiometer for the last 4 years. Works great the the two parts with the heatsink were less than $20.

Are you using pid, i like the idea of just a controller w no pid, but one will need pid to recirculate.

the $20 thing wasn't in my cards. I didn't have any parts really to begin with and needed all of them. Good heatsink and the relay, potentiometer, pid, the box, wire, switches, lights, breaker, the 110 v plug, the 2 220 volt plugs (they are pricey), 10-3 cable, blah blah blah it adds up or at least it did for me.

 

[Swamproad]

I didn't need a pump to recirculate. I learned BIAB from BOBSBREWS as he is a member of our club. A lot of people of tried it and dropped the recirculating with a pump. THUGHES has discussed it in this forum.

 

[applescrap]

Bob stempski? The guy from biabrewer.info i really like him. Really cool, will you tell him i love his stuff. The no chill experiments, the biab overview video, great stuff.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think it's foolish to control your element with a PID controller without actually installing the temp probe into the process that the controller is controlling. It's like pulling one of your spark plug wires off. The engine will still run. At the very least it's an accurate digital thermometer. At best it's an actual temperature controller.

 

[applescrap]

I think it's foolish to control your element with a PID controller without actually installing the temp probe into the process that the controller is controlling. It's like pulling one of your spark plug wires off. The engine will still run. At the very least it's an accurate digital thermometer. At best it's an actual temperature controller.

You know I think you're brilliant Bobby and I have sung the Praises of your gear up and down this forum but in this situation I think first foolish is a little much and second I just disagree.

Here is my reasons: a Spark wire would cause poor engine performance, element power/performance is not effected in manual mode so not equal analogy. I'm not recirculating so I don't need it to control anything. It would be nice to have it to maintain strike temp so you don't have to watch over it while doing other things but it is not necessary for that task. Generally speaking you run your element at 100 percent to strike. And 100% to begin boil so the only time you control it is to turn down the boil vigor where temp doesnt matter. element isn't fixed so my system isn't a permanent install anyways. The PID will not run without the thermometer and if you bang it up or damage it you're buying another one. I was thinking about going to 10-gallon batches and would need to buy another temperature probe if it was installed in my other kettle instead of the freedom of not having it installed. I like nothing in my pot I can clean it really easily and thoroughly. So basically the only use it would have for me is as a temperature probe but that has its problems because I prefer a probe deep into the middle of the kettle and also on the sides and anywhere else I want to check so just having a measurement at the very bottom doesn't seem as truly representative of the whole Kettle temperature especially in light of it being close to the element. Perhaps for all of the above reasons you might reconsider considering. As always i reserve the right to consider reconsidering as well, because having a permanent temp probe would be cool but since i remove element i turn pid off during mash anyways infear of accidental dry fire.

I want to be absolutely crystal clear that Bobby has taught me so much and I am grateful and immensley impressed by him. and although I mostly disagree here anything he says along these lines should be taken seriously. Thanks again bobby for your help getting me going.

 

[GreenDragon]

Hi all. Wee bit of an update. I've done a bunch more research. The BIAB forum here is great and I've also joined BIABrewer.info and learned a lot from there.

I have two main goals here:
1. Make good beer
2. Spend more time with the family

I think I can accomplish both of those things with a simple eBIAB setup. I will not be recirculating my mash, I'm not really seeing enough gains for the amount of money and time I'll need to spend. I do 5 gallon batches. The difference between 65 and 70% efficiency amounts to about $1.25 for me. I mainly want consistency. If I can hit 65% every time, I'm a happy camper (I'm also a fan of their IPA)!

With all of this in mind I've already ordered the Still Dragon kit. I'm a computer nerd and do customized SFF builds so I shouldn't have too hard of a time modifying the Still Dragon to either add a computer case fan for active cooling or installing an external heatsink.

I'm also probably going with Electric Brewing Supply's element package:
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/element-assembly-complete-kit/

Once everything arrives I'll post some build pics. I'll also post pics of my pubshed setup for brewing (I already have the bar and keggarator installed).

Thanks for all the advise everyone! If I decide to go hard core in the future (once the kiddos are a bit older) the info I learned here will be very helpful. Thanks again!

 

[applescrap]

Awesome green dragon and i think you are on a good path. Recirculating Mash at specific temps is really cool but all my research led me to the same conclusions as you. I keep things simple.

 

[Keith Hartley]

Any updates on the controller?