little help with AG recipe

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newguy

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Ok so my next AG is going to be a Fullers ESB clone. I got this promash report from another member here on HBT, but for some reason my mailbox is all screwed up and I can't remember who I got this recipe from. :(

Anyhoo I'm still learning Promash and I have a few questions on the recipe and procedures.

Here is what I have:

Fullers ESB

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

04-C Bitter & English Pale Ale, Strong Bitter/English Pale Ale

Min OG: 1.046 Max OG: 1.065
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 65
Min Clr: 6 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.00 Wort Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 9.50
Anticipated OG: 1.056 Plato: 13.77
Anticipated SRM: 17.0
Anticipated IBU: 43.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80 %
Wort Boil Time: 70 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 10.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 5.66 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.049 SG 12.23 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
42.1 4.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) Great Britain 1.038 3
5.3 0.50 lbs. CaraMunich Malt Belgium 1.033 75
5.3 0.50 lbs. CaraVienne Malt Belgium 1.034 22
5.3 0.50 lbs. Cara-Pils Dextrine Malt 1.033 2
10.5 1.00 lbs. Flaked Corn (Maize) America 1.040 1
21.1 2.00 lbs. Munich Malt Great Britain 1.037 6
5.3 0.50 lbs. Crystal 120L Great Britain 1.033 120
5.3 0.50 lbs. Crystal 80L 1.033 80

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
0.50 oz. Wye Target Pellet 8.80 21.1 60 min.
0.50 oz. Wye Challenger Pellet 8.20 14.9 40 min.
0.50 oz. Wye Northdown Pellet 8.00 5.1 15 min.
0.50 oz. Goldings - E.K. Plug 6.40 2.4 1 min.
0.75 oz. Goldings - E.K. Plug 6.40 0.0 Dry Hop


Yeast
-----

Fermentis Safale S04


Water Profile
-------------

Profile: Burton On Trent
Profile known for: Strong Pale Ales

Calcium(Ca): 268.0 ppm
Magnesium(Mg): 62.0 ppm
Sodium(Na): 30.0 ppm
Sulfate(SO4): 638.0 ppm
Chloride(Cl): 36.0 ppm
biCarbonate(HCO3): 141.0 ppm

pH: 8.33



Mash Type: Single Step

Saccharification Rest Temp : 155 Time: 60
Mash-out Rest Temp : 170 Time: 20
Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 60


Total Mash Volume Gal: 8.64 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.


So basicly if I'm understanding this right I'm going to mash at a temp of 155 for a total of 60 min. I'm then going to sparge with water at a temp of 170.

Does this look right to you guys?

Any advice or help is appricated-

Cheers,
 
Your mash and sparge temps sound right. Did you have any other procedure Qs? Do you know what your strike temp is going to be?

I'm not a promash guy, so I'm not sure what that Total Mash Volume line means. Hopefully that's not saying 8.6 gal for your strike water. You should have something like 2.5-3.5 gal for your strike water.
 
I don't use ProMash either (BeerSmith here), but I'd guess that the 8.64 gallons represents mash, mashout and sparge volumes.
 
80% efficiency is pretty high for a first AG batch, so you may want to have some DME available in case you need to bump your gravity up.

The basic temperatures you posted are pretty much right on for a single-infusion mash using well-modified malts (which basically everything is these days). Assuming you're doughing in about 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain, you'll want to make sure your mash water is at about 164 degrees before adding the grain.

If you're mashing in a cooler-based tun, you'll need to account for the heat the tun itself will absorb. You most likely will add water at about 169 degrees to the tun, then button it up and let it stabilize. If it locks in at or about 164, mix in your grain and it will settle at about 150 - 155.
 
no this isn't my first batch...second actually :) Yeah getting my strike water and stuff is no big deal I can get that info from pro-mash. My last batch I was only off by my strike temp by 2 degrees, so I'm planning to adjust for that with this brew.

I'm using a 10 gal round MLT with a SS braid and my last brew and first brew I actually got right about 80% so I guess what I'm doing is right :) Promash gave me spot on numbers for my first brew so sparge amounts and strike temps shouldn't be an issue.

Just wanted to make sure it looked good to all of you. :mug:
 
Ah, my misunderstanding - I thought this was your first go for some reason. The recipe looks good, and it sounds like you've already got your processes dialed in.
 
With a nickname like "newguy" I can see why someone might think it's your first AG batch! :D

I don't know much specifically about Fullers, but it looks like a tasty brew to what I can see. Great hop choices!
 
Lil' Sparky said:
Cool. In that case, I've got some problems maybe YOU can help ME with... :D


Sure mate no probs, just as long as its not the question as to how I can drink more home-brew before I pass out....I'm still working on that dilemma :D
 
If I were to collect 5.66g, and then boil fo 70 min, I'd end up with about 4.25g.
I've also never seen such a complicated grain bill for a Fullers ESB clone. I'd just use 8.5# Maris Otter, and 8 - 12 oz Crystal 150.

But I do like the hops and the yeast.

-a.
 
I agree with ajf. I don't know what Belgian caramel malt, Munich malt, and flaked corn are doing in a Fuller's ESB clone. Stick with British malts if you want an authentic profile. Especially get rid of that corn, unless you just like DMS in your ESBs (and then it won't be a Fuller's clone). Your grain bill also looks a bit low on fermentables and heavy on specialty malts.

You probably know your boiloff rate better than anyone else, but 0.66 gallons is typically VERY low for a 70 minute boil. I typically boil off close to 1.5 gallons over a 70-75 minute boil.

The mash temps and hop bill look great. Especially since you're going with Maris Otter malt (and rightly so), you can start checking for conversion after about 20 minutes. That stuff converts like it's getting paid by the project, rather than the hour.


TL
 
+1 on the grains. Pale malt (Maris Otter) and Crystal - that's it. At least that's what Fuller's uses in theirs. Dead on with the hops though.

I also wonder on the yeast. If you are married to the idea of dry yeast, I think Danstar Windsor may be a better choice - it will leave some residual sweetness and fruitiness that you find in Fuller's ESB. The best choice for yeast if you are making a Fuller's clone is WLP002 or Wyeast 1968, as these are supposedly the Fuller's yeast strain.

Just my .02...
 
Thanks for all the tips! As far as the yeast is concerned right now I'm really into the Safale yeasts. I just wanted to try out the ale yeast as I haven't tried this one yet. I do have some Nottingham's on hand. Think that might be better?

And yes I will probably have to alter the pre-boil volume. I just noticed it was at 5 gallons. I'll probably want to go with a pre-boil volume of about 6. I'll lose a gallon to the boil for sure.
 
The Nottingham would be going in the wrong direction. You want a yeast that is fruity and has low attenuation (leaves some residual sugars to give that malty ESB taste). The Nottingham ferments out too much as does the Safale 04. I think the yeast is something that really makes this beer what it is and the best choice is the WLP002/1968 and the best dry choice is the Windsor.
 
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