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akd200

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Location
alaska
I am ready to let go of Charlie Papazian's hand and brew a recipe posted here (MY 60 minute IPA) but I still feel a little bit wobbly:

I UNDERSTAND HE DIVIDED THE AMOUNTS BECAUSE OF THE AMOUNT OF WATER USED BUT WAS IT ALSO FOR A PROPER INITIAL WATER TO EXTRACT RATIO?
5.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 59.52% (at 75 minutes)

DO NOT KNOW THE FLAMEOUT REFERANCE
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 35.71% (at flameout)

OK with this
0.40 lb British Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 4.76% (steeping grains)


I AM READING THIS AS HE IS GRADUALLY ADDING THESE HOP BLENDS THOUGHOUT THE 60 MIN BOIL?
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (60 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (60 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (60 min) Hops

0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (45 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (45 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (45 min) Hops

0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (30 min) Hops
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (30 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (30 min) Hops

0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (15 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (15 min) Hops
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (15 min) Hops

ADDING THESE HOPS WITH THE GRAIN AT INITIAL START UP?
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)

0.50 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 10 days)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (Dry Hop 10 days)

1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale
 
He does a 75 minute boil, adds the 5lbs. of extract immediately, the other 3lbs. go in at the end of the boil (after you turn off the heat) ie: flameout--flame is turned off the burner aka: 0mins.

60min. hops go in with 60 mins left in the boil--or 15 mins. after the 75 min. boil starts
45 min. hops go in to be boiled for 45 mins.
30 get boiled 30 mins.
0 min hops get put in at the end of the boil when the flame is out. They steep like a teabag for aroma.

Dry hops go in the fermenter after about 2 weeks--after fermentation is finished and sit in there for 10 days, then the beer is bottled/kegged.
 
Way cool on clearing up for me the flameout and the stipulation that that is 0mins. Interesting, I understand that DME is relatively sanitized but this is new to me adding it and not boiling it for a hour (the 3lbs).

Thanks again for your help guys!
 
Yup, it's sometimes called late extract addition. I think it's a great technique for extract brewing and would suggest doing it in most brews. You need to have some malt in the boil to help utilize the hops (I don't know the science behind that but I'm sure someone will pop up with answer, or you could do s search for it). I can't speak to this recipe in particular, but I would generally suggest using much less extract at the beginning of the boil and adding most of it at the end of the boil. Make sure that you remove the pot from the heat before adding the malt and stir like mad to avoid scorching.
 
I've never heard of late extract additions either, but that would've definitely helped when I had to mix 7 lbs of DME into 2.5 gallons of water! Finally I got a bigger brew pot tho, so I'll be doing full boils from now on.
 
Updated so I don't spread misinformation: Apparently my second point below has been disproven by scientific study. That leaves only wort color as the reason for a partial boil.

The purpose of late additions is two-fold. It keeps the color lighter because the wort is less concentrated and limits the maillard reactions that darken the wort. The second reason is to keep the boil gravity of a partial boil the same as it would be as a full boil recipe in order to make sure hop utilization is the same as expected in the recipe. Hop utilization decreases as the wort gravity increases. In order to do this you have to add less extract according to the size of your boil. For example, if your recipe is based on a full boil of 6 gallons and you want to do a partial boil of 3 gallons then you would add half the extract at the beginning at half at flameout.
 
Fantastic! It is so cool that the simplest question opens up information across the membership.
 
I wandered into a "Gastro Pub" the other day and ordered a GD Titan IPA for the first time...

Delicious!

Amber in color, not overly hopped--the way I like 'em!
And teh malt shone through as it should--if I had to guess, I would say the hops might be Cascade and Amarillo--or something similar--a bit piney, and fruity, etc.

Gotta find some more of that brew.
 
I'm AKD200's brewing partner. I'd like comments on this rewrite

(for a simple guy like me)

My questions are:

1) At what point should we add the grain?, what temp?, how long? (I took a guess below)
2) Should we add the the 1/2oz Amarillo after killing the burner? How long?
3) Any other comments?

For 5-gallon batch

Fill brew pot with 2-1/2 gallons water.

At 160F add grain to grain bag,
(0.40 lb British Amber Malt - 22.0 SRM)
maintain temp at 160F, steep for 1/2 hour.

Remove grain bag, turn up heat.

When boiling, add 5-lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM).
Start Timer (0 min).

At 15-min - add 1/4oz each Simcoe, Warrior, Amarillo Gold hops.
At 30-min - add 1/4oz each Simcoe, Warrior, Amarillo Gold hops.
At 45-min - add 1/4oz each Simcoe, Warrior, Amarillo Gold hops.
At 60-min - add 1/4oz each Simcoe, Warrior, Amarillo Gold hops.

At 75-min - add 1/2oz Amarillo Gold hops.
Turn off heat
Add 3-lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM)
Stir like crazy
Hop Steep - add 1/2oz Amarillo Gold - rest for 15 minutes? 30 minutes?

Transfer to carboy. Add water to make 5-gallons
Chill wort to 70F
Pitch Yeast

Ferment for 12 days at 68F
Transfer to another carboy
Add 1oz Amarillo Gold
Add 1/2oz Simcoe

Ferment for 10 days at 72F

Cheers

Novice Brewer
 
A few things:

"Fill brew pot with 2-1/2 gallons water." - You're going to want closer to 4 gallons of water in the initial boil volume. You will lose quite a bit during the long boil.

"At 160F add grain to grain bag, (0.40 lb British Amber Malt - 22.0 SRM) maintain temp at 160F, steep for 1/2 hour." - That isn't a steeping grain so you're not going to get much out of it. That grain needs to be mashed, which is a different process altogether and not worth it for only .4lb of grain. I think you're looking for a crystal/caramel malt to add color and flavor.

Your hop schedule is a little odd because you don't add hops until 15 minutes into the boil. Unless you're going for a 75 minute boil you can shave 15 minutes off each addition. For example, your first addition listed at 15 minutes should be added after you add the DME and the wort is back to a boil then your timer starts for the rest of your hop additions. This would make your boil 60 minutes long.
 
Thanks for your prompt reply - I owe you a homebrew!

As have you noted, this is an extract and cracked grain recipe - suitable for us, since we don't have mashing apparatus.

Please take a look at the originally posted recipe below (or follow the link). The author refers to the Amber Malt as a "steeping grain". He also has a "hop-steep" addition at "0 minutes".

I wish I could say I'm having a homebrew now, but that won't be for a few hours yet.

Cheers

Novice Brewer

Deepsouth posted this recipe last year:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/my-60-minute-ipa-125474/


Extract - MY 60 minute IPA

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Recipe Type: Extract
Yeast: wyeast 1187 ringwood ale
Yeast Starter: recommended
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.071
Final Gravity: forgot to take (doh)
IBU: 72.2
Boiling Time (Minutes): 75
Color: 9.4 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 12
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10
Tasting Notes: this turned out well balanced with a sharp resiny bitterness.

primary fermentation temperature 68 degrees
secondary fermentation temperature 72 degrees


Ingredients


5.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 59.52% (at 75 minutes)
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 35.71% (at flameout)

0.40 lb British Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 4.76% (steeping grains)

0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (60 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (60 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (60 min) Hops

0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (45 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (45 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (45 min) Hops

0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (30 min) Hops
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (30 min) Hops
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (30 min) Hops

0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (15 min) Hops
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (15 min) Hops
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (15 min) Hops

0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)

0.50 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 10 days)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (Dry Hop 10 days)

1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale




i've had approval from three beer geeks that have tried this brew and have had one non beer geek offer to buy the ingredients if i would brew them a batch.


thanks for looking!
 
Amber malt is not really a steeping malt so do this: Micro mash. Steep it in 1/2 gal of water @ 150-158F for 40 mins. That will act as a mash will and convert the enzymes and get the sugar extracted from the grains without adding starch haze that you don't want.
The key is the low amount of water. No more than .6 gal.

I would suggest setting the oven to 155F, getting the water to 160F on the stovetop, adding the grainbag, and then putting the pot in the oven for 40-50 mins.
 
First "solo" boil.

Using recipe in this thread.

This is way too much detail for established brewers - offered for the fun of it - and to encourage novices to get after it with minimal equipment.

It was a rainy Saturday - this Labor Day weekend, therefore a good time to brew beer.

Up 'till now I've been a gopher for AKD200 at his place, who has the brewing equipment. I made an assessment of my own equipment:

(2) brand new 3-gallon carboys
(2) airlock/stoppers
(many) 1/2-gallon growlers
(1) baking thermometer - range 75F-450F
(1) 16-qt Calphalon stock pot (my father-in-law would call it a "20-fishhead-pot")
(1) 4-cup sauce pan
(1) nearly empty jug of Chlorox
(lots, essentially enless supply of) commerically-treated and heated glacier water - courtesy of local water utility

START THE YEAST (ALE YEAST)

First step - wash growlers - fill with bleach-water
Second step - soak airlocks in tupperware filled with same
3rd - go online - get a tutorial on starting yeast (this was actually step zero)
4th - wash sauce pan, fill with 1-1/2 cup water
5th - add 1/2-cup dry malt extract
6th - boil DME - making wort
7th - cover and let cool
8th - calibrate baking thermometer using room temp water - found that 70F water reads 80F
9th - make label for clear growler
10th - after frequent rinsing and checking temp - rinse growler, airlocks, dump wort into growler, add yeast, apply airlock.
11th - call Dave - bring thirst and funnel.

(hours later)

Dave shows up with funnel - give him a chilled homebrew Pale Ale

MICRO MASH

Start cracked grain in sauce pan
Set oven to 170F (lowest setting)
At 160F move sauce pan to oven
Cycle oven on and off - ten minutes each

THE BOIL

Rinse 20-fishhead-pot - fill with 3-gallons commerically-treated and heated glacier water - set over two burners - add 5 lbs DME - stir
40 minutes after the start - strain micro-mash into 20-fishhead-pot.
Every 15-minutes do the hop addition
Note that baking thermometer reads 215F more or less constantly
after 75-minutes, remove hops with strainer, remove heat, add final 3 lbs DME.

THE TRANSFER
Pour bleach water out of each carboy - rinse -
Eyeball wort level
Calibrate carboys with 1-gallon pitcher - add enough water to make 2-1/2 gallons each with wort added.
By now wort temp is about 180F.
Call for Dave's help, who holds strainer over funnel-in-carboy.
Pour wort out of 20-fishhead-pot to first carboy - stop at 2-1/2 gallons.
Repeat for 2nd carboy - way short.
Reward Dave - this time with a chilled, homebrewed, German Pilsner
Transfer some wort 1st carboy to 2nd.
Top off both carboys - cover with foil.

THE CHILL
This used a variation on our previous method:
Start filling tub with cold water
Rinse/Scrub 20-fishhead-pot.
Place one carboy in pot - bring to tub - let water run into/out-of pot.
Place 2nd carboy in tub - let cool, swish to speed cooling.
Sterilize sauce pan - check temp, taste wort (damn good).
At well-under 70F, add yeast from growler (now six hours after the start).
Resoak airlocks, apply to carboys.

FERMENTATION
It was 22:30 by now, so resisted impulse to watch the fermentation.
Next moring both carboys bubbling merrily.
Timed the "blubs" on the airlocks.
Activity peaked out about 24-hours after pitching yeast

COMMENTS
Carboy 1 has richer wort mix than Carboy 2. I intend to leave them that way - just because.
8 days hence will transfer and add hop.
By October 15, we should have bottle-conditioned IPA ready to rock.
Next time, with more than one carboy, will measure the hot transfer. This way a bit of precision will accrue, and less will go on the kitchen floor

Cheers

Novice Brewer
 
Congrats on your sucess.

1 tip: get some starsan and ditch the bleach. It's a poor to mediocre sanitizer and any bleach that may make it into your beer is a batch ruiner.
 
After 10 day primary, and 11 day secondary ferment (with dry hops), we primed and bottled half the batch (from the richer of the two carboys).

Using a turkey baster, I extracted about 4 oz. and chilled the sample. Had a taste and decided to try added 1 oz. water to 2 oz. beer - too light.

Added 1/2 oz water to remaining 2. oz beer - which I liked better than the undiluted batch.

Added 5 oz. malt extract to 2.5 gallon batch and bottled. Kept all in the warmest bathroom.

Kept and chilled a pint glass for later (yum!)

Five days later the suspense got to me, so I popped open a bottle and got a fine, rich head. I will make this beer again - very satisfying.

Until now, I have graded our beer "acceptable". This one grades "good" - or better.
 
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