American Pale Ale Lake Walk Pale Ale

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I have been looking for a pale ale with a great citrus flavor, I am so glad that I came across this recipe.

In an attempt to focus on about 5 beers, and get them tweak to my version of perfection, while using the same grains in as many beers as I can i wanted to know what you thought about changing the grain bill to this:

9# 2 row
1# Caramel 40

This will drop the ABV a bit but I am fine with that.
Everything else will stay the same, except I will not dry hop.

Thanks in advance.

Tim
I think toasting your grain is a must for this beer. Why don't you want to add the wheat? It adds so much to this brew! I would hate to see it forgotten. JMHO

I just LOVE this beer! It is a great example of what a good home brew should be.
I am not a fan of the yeast Dude chose but that’s just me, I don't use it. This beer w/ WLP001 is a staple at my house.

Cheers
JJ
 
I agree with Jaybird. I've never made Dude's beer, but it's similar in recipe to mine. I think 1 lb. of crystal is too much in a pale ale. It ends up being too sweet. Stick with the 0.5 lb. The malt will come through better. At least go 9.5 lbs 2-row and 0.5 lb crystal.
 
I think toasting your grain is a must for this beer. Why don't you want to add the wheat? It adds so much to this brew! I would hate to see it forgotten. JMHO

I just LOVE this beer! It is a great example of what a good home brew should be.
I am not a fan of the yeast Dude chose but that’s just me, I don't use it. This beer w/ WLP001 is a staple at my house.


Cheers
JJ

Not against the wheat, after running through my recipies, I will need it for another brew so I can use it here as well.


I agree with Jaybird. I've never made Dude's beer, but it's similar in recipe to mine. I think 1 lb. of crystal is too much in a pale ale. It ends up being too sweet. Stick with the 0.5 lb. The malt will come through better. At least go 9.5 lbs 2-row and 0.5 lb crystal.

Thanks for the input! I want to use the 40 because I need it for other brews, and I am trying to streamline my beers. I see your point about being sweet, i can drop the 40 to .5 and also add .5 wheat to the mix as well.

Again thanks for the input.

new grain bill is this:

9.5# 2 row - (maybe toast a pound or 2?)
.5# Caramel 40
.5# wheat flakes

Tim
 
I just kegged this yesterday and forced carbonated it. It was delicious even warm with no carbonation. After the poker game last night I tried it again and oh my god. I had two more glasses. This beer is hands down the best home brew iv ever brewed.

Its tangy with a strong grape fruit taste and a great aroma. I think the sweetness is totally in balance with the dryness. I would make this beer every time I brewed if it weren't for the expense of the hops.

It was clear in the secondary fermenter, but after I kegged it, I kicked some stuff up at the bottom. I have a feeling this beer is not going to make it to the clearing. Ill drink it all before it clears and properly ages.
 
Thank you for this recipe. I brewed it yesterday and it smelled fantastic! I bumped the first 2 hops additions to 1oz and increased the 2-row to compensate for efficiency, but the rest was the same. 3 weeks can't come soon enough so I can taste the coveted hydrometer sample! :mug:
 
Are you toasting your grains and then brewing with them the same day, or are you letting them sit for a while.

I have heard that you need to rest them in a paper bag for a week or so to avoid bitterness.

Tim
 
I just bottled this yesterday and I always taste a sample right out of the fermentor on bottling day. This was the first beer where I actually drank an entire pint right out of the fermentor and was ready for another after that one!!
 
do you just add the 2 dry hops together at the same time? or amarillo for 7 and simcoe for 7 or vice versa.

I'm going to brew this in 2 weeks...
 
I'm going to make this soon- converting a cooler to an MLT as we speak. Dude, or others, can you toast the grain after it's crushed? I won't have a mill of my own real soon, and would really like to make this recipe, but have to order my grain pre-crushed for a while.
 
Are you toasting your grains and then brewing with them the same day, or are you letting them sit for a while.

I have heard that you need to rest them in a paper bag for a week or so to avoid bitterness.

Tim


I toasted mine and brewed with them the next day. I do not think it will affect this beer that much. It really has a nice clean smooth taste. I just tasted a sample when I kegged today and man it is tasty. I have brewed this several times with biscuit malt and this was my first time toasting my own malt and it is almost exactly the same... I have played with the IBU's on this and done it around 45 and as high as 55..I like to keep it around 45..but that is my personal opinion. I think at 55 IBU it was closer to an IPA, but at 45 it was a very hoppy pale ale...

Jay

J
 
I've toasted the grain after I crushed it, and I've also used the grain on the same day I brewed it. I think the bitterness of the hops kind of hides any potential tannins that may develop.
 
I bought victory in placed of the toasted malt like a few of us here.... I guess I'll try the toast crushed 2-rows next time.
Ok... I can't wait. I just got my grains during lunch at LHBS. Time to mash on Sunday morning while everyone is still asleep.

Edit: one last questions... I'm planning to leave the dry hops in the secondary for longer time, 2-3 weeks. Is it not recommended?
Or should I just secondary without hops for 2 weeks and add the hops on the week before I want to bottle. Any one tested this?
 
I bought victory in placed of the toasted malt like a few of us here.... I guess I'll try the toast crushed 2-rows next time.
Ok... I can't wait. I just got my grains during lunch at LHBS. Time to mash on Sunday morning while everyone is still asleep.

Edit: one last questions... I'm planning to leave the dry hops in the secondary for longer time, 2-3 weeks. Is it not recommended?
Or should I just secondary without hops for 2 weeks and add the hops on the week before I want to bottle. Any one tested this?

If you are using biscuit or Victory, you might want to adjust down the quantity. The home toast does not produce the intensity of those malts form my experience. I prefer toasting my own. I would dry hop at the tail end for one week if it were my batch. I have actually been reducing my DH times to 5 days lately for some beers.
 
I've toasted the grain after I crushed it, and I've also used the grain on the same day I brewed it. I think the bitterness of the hops kind of hides any potential tannins that may develop.

Nice. Thanks for the reply. Based on the recipe and the comments in this thread, I'm in for a treat- a good way to go all-grain. Thanks! :mug:
 
If you are using biscuit or Victory, you might want to adjust down the quantity. The home toast does not produce the intensity of those malts form my experience. I prefer toasting my own. I would dry hop at the tail end for one week if it were my batch. I have actually been reducing my DH times to 5 days lately for some beers.

too late.. all my crushed grains are in the same bag.... I guess I'll have a toastier brew..
 
I just toasted 4 lbs. of unmilled 2-row for a 10g batch of this I plan to brew this weekend. How should I store this until then? Open air inside the house? Or in an airtight container?

I thought I read somewhere that when you toast malt you want to let it sit for a few days out in the open....is that right?
 
I just toasted 4 lbs. of unmilled 2-row for a 10g batch of this I plan to brew this weekend. How should I store this until then? Open air inside the house? Or in an airtight container?

I thought I read somewhere that when you toast malt you want to let it sit for a few days out in the open....is that right?

I use mine the same day but you should store in a paper bag if you are resting it.
 
Damnedest thing. I ended up with 1.054 to kettle today doing a double batch sparge. I'm calculating 85% efficiency and 1.074 OG. I Usually only get about 65%, so I don't know what the heck happened and I checked with Hydro and Refrac. Anyway, I am beefing up the IBU now to make a Lake Walk IPA. Dude, any thoughts on this; I am just doing it across the board to get to about 69IBU.
 
Good luck!

I REALLY need to bite the bullet and buy Simcoe leaf hops. This is a better beer with whole hops, IMHO.

Yes, I agree. Freshops has them Dude.

I'm kind of embarrassed to say, but I got another medal with your recipe! 3rd out of 42 entries in category 10. I used Maris Otter, WY1272, and all whole hops in that batch.
 
I brewed this one again yesterday. My eff. sucked and I accidentally added the 20 minute hops at 40 minutes, so it is going to be a bit light and bitter. Nonetheless it i s bubbling away. The hops smelled great, I forget how wonderful Amarillo hops smell.
 
very yummy wort... I made it today, but made a lot of mess during cool off period which probably cause me 2 qt of conc. wort... :(

I made a PM version with FWH and late extract addition:

Ingredients

60% efficiency... (crappy LHBS mill)

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.75 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 36.59 %
3.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 34.15 %
2.00 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 19.51 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 4.88 %
0.50 lb Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 4.88 %
0.63 oz Amarillo Gold [8.60 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 21.0 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
0.75 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (20 min) Hops 10.4 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (5 min) Hops 6.9 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.60 %] (5 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc


ps - I saved and vacuum packed my 5 minutes hops (2 oz...) as my my bittering hop for another APA.
I'll ave my dry hops (another 2 oz...) for sure for bittering too.. otherwise, this is an expensive batch.
 
I'm kind of embarrassed to say, but I got another medal with your recipe! 3rd out of 42 entries in category 10. I used Maris Otter, WY1272, and all whole hops in that batch.

Haha!!! This recipe also won 2nd place at a local competition last fall, in Category 14. I'm starting to wonder how often this recipe has placed somewhere....
 
I brewed this 6 weeks ago and just broke open my first bottle. Would have tasted it earlier but I had a bad sinus infection for nearly 2 weeks. 2 weeks without a brew is torture!! All I can say is that this beer is fantastic. My dad also did the initial tasting and he couldn't believe how good it is. That toasted malt is a nice touch and man, what a nice hop aroma. This may be my house ale going forward.....
 
I brewed this 6 weeks ago and just broke open my first bottle. Would have tasted it earlier but I had a bad sinus infection for nearly 2 weeks. 2 weeks without a brew is torture!! All I can say is that this beer is fantastic. My dad also did the initial tasting and he couldn't believe how good it is. That toasted malt is a nice touch and man, what a nice hop aroma. This may be my house ale going forward.....


Good to hear!

I'm brewing up a 10 gallon batch tomorrow, my shipment of whole leaf Simcoe and Amarillo finally got in from North Country today...so LWPA brew day is tomorrow.
:rockin:
 
I´m definitely going to brew up a batch of this very soon!

But Dude: Do you prefer it with or without he Centennial?

Also, I´m going to use torrified instead of flaked wheat or maybe a combo of that and some wheat malt. Guess that´ll work fine.
 
This I what I figured out for my PM (sorry about the metric stuff). The calculation program is a bit weird on the IBU's and I think I'll boil the LME for 15 mins in a separate kettle and add to the wort in fermenter for better hop util. as I only have a 10l kettle right now. Anyone tried that?

Original Gravity
1.055
(1.049 to 1.057)
Final Gravity
1.014
(1.012 to 1.015)
Color
10° SRM
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
75%

malt and fermentables:
% Kg Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
42% 1.500 Light/Pale Malt Extract Syrup 36 5
28% 1.000 Extra Light Dry Extract 44 3
11% 0.400 Toasted Malt 33 27
6% 0.225 Wheat, Torrified 36 1
6% 0.225 British Crystal 50-60L 34 55
6% 0.200 Biscuit Malt 36 23

Batch size: 19.0 liters

hops:
time grams variety form aa
Boil 60 mins 20 Amarillo pellet 7.0
Boil 20 mins 20 Simcoe pellet 13.0
Boil 5 mins 30 Simcoe pellet 13.0
Boil 5 mins 30 Amarillo pellet 7.0
Dry hop 7 days 30 Simcoe pellet 13.0
Dry hop 7 days 30 Amarillo pellet 7.0

Boil: 18.0 avg liters for 60 minutes (this is not correct though, see top)


Bitterness
4.9 HBU
38.7 IBU

BU:GU
0.71

yeast
Wyeast American Ale II (1272)

Alcohol
5.5% A.B.V.
4.3% A.B.W.
Calories
182 per 12 oz.

misc
boil 15 min 3 grams Irish Moss
 
I´m definitely going to brew up a batch of this very soon!

But Dude: Do you prefer it with or without he Centennial?

Also, I´m going to use torrified instead of flaked wheat or maybe a combo of that and some wheat malt. Guess that´ll work fine.

I prefer it without Centennial:

1. It just isn't needed.
2. I am careful with Centennial now because of the flowery notes I get in the aroma. Not a flower lover. ;)

Torrified wheat should work fine.

I brewed up 10 gallons this week, but I did an experiment that I can't wait to see the results of. I've been kind of bugged recently with how much the safale 05 attenuates, no matter what I do I always get a DRY beer.

So I am using saf 05 for half, and Wyeast 2450 (Denny's Favorite 50), supposedly an old brewtek pub ale strain similar to chico, for the other half. Apparently it is an awesome yeast. Can't wait.
 
I prefer it without Centennial:

I brewed up 10 gallons this week, but I did an experiment that I can't wait to see the results of. I've been kind of bugged recently with how much the safale 05 attenuates, no matter what I do I always get a DRY beer.

So I am using saf 05 for half, and Wyeast 2450 (Denny's Favorite 50), supposedly an old brewtek pub ale strain similar to chico, for the other half. Apparently it is an awesome yeast. Can't wait.

Dude, I look forward to hearing about the DF50. I gave up on US-05 on this beer for the same reason. I have found more consistent attenuation with 1056 and 1272. The beers come out better for me.
 
Dude, I look forward to hearing about the DF50. I gave up on US-05 on this beer for the same reason. I have found more consistent attenuation with 1056 and 1272. The beers come out better for me.

I swear when it was safale 56 it wasn't this attenuative, I usually got a pretty dry beer, but lately it has left the final product kind of lifeless. Little to no malt character.
I hope I don't fall in love with the 2450, cuz it is a limited strain. I'm no yeast rancher!

I also used all whole hops again for the first time in a long time. Can't wait to drink this stuff!
 
Ok.. I'm sold to this Pale Ale from now on.... I just racked it yesterday to secondary.. drank the hydro sample... man, i taste grapefruit and "passion fruit"... what a good ale.
Thanks Dude!
 
Ok.. I'm sold to this Pale Ale from now on.... I just racked it yesterday to secondary.. drank the hydro sample... man, i taste grapefruit and "passion fruit"... what a good ale.
Thanks Dude!

Did you use Wyeast 1272? I've noticed that it tends to give a hint of passionfruit in my pale ales. Love that strain! :)
 
Did you use Wyeast 1272? I've noticed that it tends to give a hint of passionfruit in my pale ales. Love that strain! :)

Just normal S-05. I think I'll use my cultured pacman next time. I noticed a fruity taste when i brew with it. Good beer for sure... Ill check out Wyest 1272 for more fruity taste.
 
I didn't know that about 1272. Personally I think enough passion fruit comes out between the amarillo/simcoe combo.

I'm seriously jonesing to try the Wyeast 2450 batch...man I can't wait!
 
I didn't know that about 1272. Personally I think enough passion fruit comes out between the amarillo/simcoe combo.

I'm seriously jonesing to try the Wyeast 2450 batch...man I can't wait!

I have brewed this with 1272. The main difference I noticed is the bready quality that comes form this yeast. If fermented cool, the frutiness is minimal. I find it to be a very nice yeast, which is the Anchor Liberty Ale strain. The version I brewed with 1272 and Maris Otter got 45 and 46 pts. in a major competition recently, so I think it's a good yeast for this beer if you would like to try a change of pace.

Best
KD
 
Wyeast and White Labs are most commonly available where I live, but I´m not such a big fan of the White Labs vials, have had some problems with infections while the slap packs are very easy to sanitize and they pitch very well without a starter. It might be my perseption, but I´ve brewn a quite cascade´y APA with both 1056 and 1272 and I´ve noticed a whiff of passionfruit when using the latter. I have had the temps a bit high, though. But I usually like some fruitiness in my pale ales.
 
I have brewed this with 1272. The main difference I noticed is the bready quality that comes form this yeast. If fermented cool, the frutiness is minimal. I find it to be a very nice yeast, which is the Anchor Liberty Ale strain. The version I brewed with 1272 and Maris Otter got 45 and 46 pts. in a major competition recently, so I think it's a good yeast for this beer if you would like to try a change of pace.

Best
KD



Next time I will definitely do a 1272. Incidentally, Liberty Ale is where I got the idea to add some toasted malt. I found an excerpt way back when I started brewing that Liberty Ale had some.

Another yeast I'd like to try is the Wyeast cask ale yeast that is discontinued, but brought back on occasion. I think it is actually available this spring.
 
Next time I will definitely do a 1272. Incidentally, Liberty Ale is where I got the idea to add some toasted malt. I found an excerpt way back when I started brewing that Liberty Ale had some.

Another yeast I'd like to try is the Wyeast cask ale yeast that is discontinued, but brought back on occasion. I think it is actually available this spring.

The cask ale yeast (1026 I think) was released in the fall VSS program. It's a very nice yeast and drops out for a dead clear beer very quickly. Yes, it would be nice for this recipe I think. I used it for a hop-bursted IPA and found it delicious.
 
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