Lagering in Swimming Pool

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Pick

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High Springs
Yeah, I said swimming pool. A co-worker was telling me his pool stays in the mid 40's during the winter. Might be ideal for lagering, if you could keep the water out of container. Maybe put it on a stand or something. Anyone done or thought of this?
 
I've heard of people using cold water baths to cool down wort, but never to lager. It's actually a pretty clever idea.

Wrap the container in a plastic garbage bag - if you have shrink wrap even better.


Just don't tell the neighbors :).
 
when i think winter, i think ridiculously crazy snow and wind and such since im from up north. I see you're from florida where you are most likely not going to have to dig a path to get to your pool. in this case, i would say go for it. just cover it up with something and brew away! Sounds like a great idea!
 
Cool idea really. I've actually considered that using the st. Clair river when the coming zombipocalypse happens and I declare myself king of the Sacred Barely Water, and trade my beer for nubile slave girls.

I plan to use sealed buckets (maybe even then shrinkwrapped) with a chain through the bucket handle and hand them from the railing of the riverwalk.
 
Cool idea really. I've actually considered that using the st. Clair river when the coming zombipocalypse happens and I declare myself king of the Sacred Barely Water, and trade my beer for nubile slave girls.

I plan to use sealed buckets (maybe even then shrinkwrapped) with a chain through the bucket handle and hand them from the railing of the riverwalk.

im totally gonna eat your brains.
 
I plan to use sealed buckets (maybe even then shrinkwrapped) with a chain through the bucket handle and hand them from the railing of the riverwalk.

Are you worried at all about the bucket handles rusting through? I know mine have started to rust just from getting wet in a swamp cooler.
 
I love this pool idea. I don't have to wait on the zombie-apocalypse but it will probably be another month or two before my pool gets into the 60's much less 40's. I'd just set the carboy on the the second or third step no need to float it.
 
Cool idea really. I've actually considered that using the st. Clair river when the coming zombipocalypse happens and I declare myself king of the Sacred Barely Water, and trade my beer for nubile slave girls.

I plan to use sealed buckets (maybe even then shrinkwrapped) with a chain through the bucket handle and hand them from the railing of the riverwalk.

When the zombipocalypse happens, I'm heading to PoHo to "see my brother" and might have to make a stop along the boardwalk first...... :D
 
>>>>knows someone who lagers in 15 gallon kegs in his pool. Down here in Inland so cal, it gets cold enough in the winter to bring your pool water down to 50 dg. I plan to do it in Cornies tied to the outside of the pool so they dont float away
 
mid 40's during the winter.

Gainesville here, and calling shenanigans on this co-worker's claim. Check out the average weather chart for us (15 min down the road from High Springs).

http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/32603

Our coldest month is Jan which has a 67F-44F range, so you'd be looking at 55F as an average. AND this is just during January. Feb and Dec are about 2 degrees warmer and it gets worse from there.

What your coworker might have meant was "my pool is cold as balls during the winter and I happened to use a thermometer on one or two days and noticed it was in the forties."

Don't think you can lager at 50F. It won't hurt the beer or anything, but it won't be lagering.
 
I would be worried about the interaction between the chlorine and stainless steel.
You could expect to see halogen attack and corrsion forming on your keg.

Here are some tips from maximising the serrvice life of 316SS in a pool environment.

http://www.recreonics.com/fyi/stainless_steel_maintenance.htm

Stainless Steel Cleaning and Maintenance
Stainless steel is a corrosion resistant chromium/nickel alloy steel that is strong and durable with excellent luster. However, it is not rustproof, particularly in the harsh environment of a swimming pool. Chlorine and bromine used for sanitization are highly caustic chemicals for stainless steel and heat and humidity enhance the corrosiveness of these chemicals. Regular cleaning is the best way to prevent corrosion and add to the service life for your railings, starting platforms, guard chairs and any other stainless steel equipment. The goal of your cleaning and maintenance program should be to keep the stainless steel's protective chromium oxide layer intact. This is what prevents corrosion.



General Cleaning and Maintenance Suggestion for Stainless Steel
DO:
Rinse off stainless steel pool equipment frequently with fresh water to wash away accumulated chemicals such as chlorine and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Especially try to clean equipment immediately after use around chlorides (chlorine powder, seawater, etc.)
Clean frequently with a cleaner and water. Any cleaner that is safe for glass is usually safe for stainless steel.
Inspect equipment frequently, if you notice discoloration, tarnish or water stains, increase the frequency of your fresh water rinses to reduce accumulated chemicals.
Remove any rust spots as soon as possible to prevent irreversible pitting.
Occasionally clean with borax, soda ash, or a non-abrasive commercial cleanser and water. Stubborn stains may be removed with a magnesium oxide, ammonia and water paste.
Consider the following periodic cleaning program:
1 can of powered cleanser
1 Scotchbrite pad
1 spray bottle cleaner
1 paste automotive wax

Directions:
Wet cleaning pad with fresh water (do not use pool water) and apply powered cleanser. Using gentle pressure, rub stained areas in the same direction of the existing polishing grain until stains are removed. Rinse with clean water. Use cleaner de-greaser to remove any stains. Thoroughly dry the stainless then apply wax. Let wax dry to a haze and buff to a shine with a clean dry cloth. Automotive waxes will provide added beauty and protection for your equipment.
DO NOT:
Do not use steel wool or sandpaper, or mineral acids, bleaches or chlorine cleansers.
Do not add chlorine to your pool right next to your stainless steel equipment. Added it as far away as possible.
Do not store stainless steel equipment in a closed area underneath steel beams to avoid corrosive condensation from dripping onto to the equipment and leaving brown spots.
Do not store stainless steel equipment where it will attract and retain moisture or airborne contaminants and do not store equipment in the same areas as chlorine.


Advanced Cleaning for Stainless Steel
Discoloration, Tarnish or Water Stains:
The first stage of corrosion is completely on the surface and is easily removed by most commercial metal polishes. Discoloration will be greater at indoor facilities due to the chlorine vapor trapped in an inside environment.

Lighting Rusting:
Rust is visible at this stage but little or no pitting has yet occurred. A stronger cleaning agent, such as Simichrome Polish, is required.

Heavy Rusting:
A deep coat of rust with surface pitting can develop if corrosion has been left unchecked for a long time. For advanced corrosion naval jelly is recommended.

Surface Restoration:
To remove or reduce pitting damage caused by corrosion, mechanical polishing is preferred chemical cleansing. Scotchbrite works well for this purpose. Work only in the direction of the existing grain and never use steel wool.

Corrosion Prevention:
Apply a physical barrier between the stainless steel and corrosive agents by using a soft paste wax, such as an automotive wax. A coating of wax may last for up to six months, depending on equipment usage.
 
Well.......good info! But the post had "Thread Killa" written all over it, til I saw through your clever ruse!

Got it! No cornies in chlorine.
 
Gainesville here, and calling shenanigans on this co-worker's claim. Check out the average weather chart for us (15 min down the road from High Springs).

http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/32603

Our coldest month is Jan which has a 67F-44F range, so you'd be looking at 55F as an average. AND this is just during January. Feb and Dec are about 2 degrees warmer and it gets worse from there.

What your coworker might have meant was "my pool is cold as balls during the winter and I happened to use a thermometer on one or two days and noticed it was in the forties."

Don't think you can lager at 50F. It won't hurt the beer or anything, but it won't be lagering.

Wouldn't the water be colder?
 
Wouldn't the water be colder?

I wouldn't think so. With the sun hitting it full on every day, I would assume it to be right at the average temp for the day, or maybe a degree or two cooler because it's slightly insulated by the ground. The temp would probably be very, very stable, but I highly doubt it stays in the 40's for weeks at a time, let alone the 32-38F that you need to really lager a beer.

Sounds ripe for a science experiment! Someone with a pool, go take twice daily temp readings and see what temp the pool stays at compared to the ambient temps. Mythbusters for Homebrew!
 
If the temperature is good for you and you don't want a corny or a bucket floating around in your pool, why not get a big rain barrel, fill that with water and put a cover over it to keep the rain out.

Also if your not using the pool you could simply drain most of the water out so the fer mentor sits on the bottom.
 
Not even an option this far south. The water may hit into the 60s but one hot streak in January can push it back upwards of 70s.
 
Also if your not using the pool you could simply drain most of the water out so the fer mentor sits on the bottom.

I am going to drain all the water out of my pool and use it as a fermenter.

I can't mash that much grain, So I will use 150 lbs of DME and mash some specialty grains in my bathtub.

I will sanitize the pool cover and make a hole for the airlock..........




;)
 
I've chilled in there (pool noodle keeping the pot from sinking)

P4040022.JPG
 
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