kevreh's 4500w basement brewery

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kevreh

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
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Location
Annandale
Does anyone remember the olden days of electric brewing. I don't know, maybe about 10 years or so ago. There were more reasons to NOT do it than to do it. Funny that all those things have been forgotten. "The element will scorch the wort", "eBrewing is dangerous, water + electricity = bad", "Its' too expensive", "Its' too complicated", etc... In short anyone who did it was pretty much on their own.

Fast forward, Kal and PJ have helped move eBrewing from "underground" into common practice. With Kal's very detailed plans and parts requirements, and PJs professional and safe schematics anyone with a little know how and willingness to learn can build an eBrewing setup.

I spent years brewing with propane, and probably half of those thinking about how cool it would be to have an eBrewery. Putting it all together, and modifying the approaches found on Kals site and these forums took time. Makes you really consider what bells and whistles you want (and can afford), how the safety mechanisms work, what will work in your space, how to handle the electrical, which parts to use, how to neatly assemble everything, etc... The list goes on.

My approach was to work with the space I had, which is about 4' wide and a few feet deep. A 10 guage wire had to be run @15' to my main panel. I debated wiring it myself but decided to use an electrician I knew. I've been BIAB for about a year now so only needed one kettle for both mashing and boiling.

I have the tools and know how to work with wood, so some unconventional things were made with it. My control panel, hood, stand mainly. The panel has a fan, and has never felt hot to the touch. The hood and stand have been sealed with polyurethane. Plus I was able to build in baffles and a water channel into the hood, something hard for me to do with metal.

The stand is on wheels. After the mash I wheel it under the pully I have to help lift and hold the bag while it drain for a few minutes. When done I just wheel it back under the hood.

Moving ahead, improvements I need to make include;

  • Tidying up the wires, somehow
  • A separate mash bucket, with holes on the bottom, to let the poly bag drain. I can also pour cold water over the bag and squeeze any remaining wort out.
  • A better way to insulate the kettle to hold mash temps. It has no insulation and all I do is put a metal lid on top to prevent too much heat from leaking. I'll probably apply some of that silver insulation with metal tape. Not sure how much it will help though.
  • Update/improve the labeling on the control panel
  • Not shown here, but a new hopper for my crank n stein, one that holds a full ~10lbs of grain.
  • Anything else that comes up. Maybe some shelving, a built in water line for filling the kettle in place, who knows. Its the little tweaks that make a difference.

Brewing with electric was a little...scary... at first. But it seems pretty straightforward and safe now, with multiple safety measures. The surprising thing is my brew sessions are shorter. Not sure why exactly. They're also easier, nothing like setting a temp on the pid then walking away to take care of other things, only to come back and find the strike water at the exact temp you need. Nice! What's also nice is the consistant boil. I had an old omega pid, but had to get an Auber (2352) to control the element power. Setting the power output to 50% (that is, half the time on, half off), means I can fine tune to get the perfect amount of boil.

That's about it for now, let me know if you have any questions!

Cheers!
Kevin

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Nice! Really similar to my setup, including the smallish basement space. We even have the same pump. Luckily mine is in front of a window, so I can vent directly out the window with the help of a window fan. I like the wooden hood and control panel. Maybe you're neater than I am, but how do you deal with the inevitable spills? And for your plate chiller, do you recirculate or go straight to the fermenter?

Maybe we could get together for a brew day sometime, since I'm in NoVA too.
 
I just read your thread....funny how we ended up with a similar system and parts, not to mention being 10 miles or so away.

Spills, after three brews, haven't been too bad. A dribble here and there. The toughest thing is disconnecting the chiller, high chance of spillage there.

Nice thing with the pump and plate chiller is I can recirculate back into the kettle until I hit my target temp. As you noted in your thread hitting target temps in the summer with tap water is hard to do. My basement stays at about 70 degrees, so I also have to wait a few hours before pitching.

Btw, ffx county uses chloramine to treat water. Which is hard to remove with charcoal filtration. I've started to use camden tablets.

A brew day sounds fun, anytime!
 
Very nice, and your introductory comments about now common brewing techniques once considered untenable is spot on. Same goes for BIAB, no-chill, etc. :)
 
Definitly agree re: propane. Nice to know I wont have to worry about running out of gas mid brew. Not to mention electric is cheaper. Also, I know that brewing indoors, in a controlled environment, will be really nice come winter time.

Regarding BIAB, funny how before BIAB people used to spend more time and effort over grain to water ratio. BIAB turned that on its head!

I couldn't omit reflecting back on how far the electric part of the hobby has come. Its pretty amazing.

Thanks for the comments!
 
Great looking setup. I am slowly moving to an eBrewery in the basement as well. Outside on a propane burner has served me well but we are heading downstairs within the year. Glad to see the ideas and lessons learned from others that have gone before me.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Great looking setup. I am slowly moving to an eBrewery in the basement as well. Outside on a propane burner has served me well but we are heading downstairs within the year. Glad to see the ideas and lessons learned from others that have gone before me.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thanks, appreciate it.;)
 
I'm a newer brewer of only 4 years, but still think I have "made my Bones". I did the LP thing, then moved up to an E build with 25 gallon pots. I'd like to thank the folks who paved the way for me.
We can buy such cool stuff, like SD 2" element kit. So much cool stuff the spending can be endless.
 
I'm a newer brewer of only 4 years, but still think I have "made my Bones". I did the LP thing, then moved up to an E build with 25 gallon pots. I'd like to thank the folks who paved the way for me.
We can buy such cool stuff, like SD 2" element kit. So much cool stuff the spending can be endless.

Yeah it can be endless, the spending that is. But the nice thing is that a lot of places like Auber and Electric Brewing Supply offer products that are geared just to us and at a decent price. If your not careful, and your looking for something as simple as a pushbutton LED two-way switch, in the past you could have ended up with a piece of crap or an expensive switch that was way overkill spec wise. Again, props to PJ for putting out so many excellent diagrams so brewers can design a system that meets their specific need.
 
Well, my brewery has seen a few sessions and its time to make some upgrades. Basically I'm moving towards what ddahl84 has (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/different-e-brewery-380514/).

In the next week, I'm going to;

  • Make use of my GOTT cooler thats been laying around for years. It will become a seperate mash tun. I'm stepping away from BIAB, for the time being. More about that below.
  • Install a shelf on my current stand, where the GOTT will sit during mashing. The shelf will be removable.
  • Install a thermowell in the main kettle.
  • Make a short, 6", section of silicone tube to provide relief between my pump and chiller and the kettle. If you look on Page 1 you can see how the valve, pump, and plate chiller are all connect on the kettle. I think a short hose between the pump and chiller will help prevent any issues with the weight on all the connections.

By using a GOTT cooler, I avoid some hassles I've had using a bag, provide better insulation (more mash temp stability), and easier step mashing. I've started experimenting with smaller batches, recently a 3 gallon one, and the lower water volume meant I had a burnt-bag episode (see below). I think there was too much grain weight on the bag and element due to less water.

Also, the reason for one kettle for mashing and boiling was to simplify the number of things to deal with and clean. But as I tried to get better efficiency from BIAB, in the end I had more buckets to clean anyways. I adopted a method where I put the bag in a bucket with holes on the bottom (that in turn sits in another bucket to collect the wort), and poured water over the bag. This basic sparge helped efficiency a bit and meant I could get the wort starting to boil while the grains continued to drain.

With the new setup, to step mash, or raise the wort temp while mashing, I'll let the wort out of the GOTT (which will sit above the main kettle), heat it to a set temp, while pumping it back over the grains in the GOTT. This will also help clarify the wort at the end of the mash since I can recirculate until clear. I'll have to keep an eye on things so the pump doesn't drain the main kettle too fast and expose the element. Maybe by closing the kettle valve part way I can prevent this from happening.

Pics to follow when changes are done. In the meantime, below is a pic of my burned bag mishap.

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Also, forgot to mention, for some reason my brew day's are shorter now. 4 hours is the norm, from grinding grain to racking to the fermenter(!). Must be the simplicity of pouring the water in the kettle, setting the temp, and waiting. Versus dragging equipment out and setting up.
 
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