Kettle Mild TIG Sugaring

[Jayf19]

Should I be worried about this weld sugaring (sanitation, rust, etc.)?

Should I try something to eliminate it?

 

[Sconnie12]

The backside is already sugared because the back wasn't purged of Oxygen. It will rust. I'd recommend grinding it smooth and scrub it really well with Bar Keepers Friend. That is about as good as you can do at this point.

 

[Jayf19]

The backside is already sugared because the back wasn't purged of Oxygen. It will rust. I'd recommend grinding it smooth and scrub it really well with Bar Keepers Friend. That is about as good as you can do at this point.

Should I be careful on something in particular or any regular grinding disk will do?

 

[Sconnie12]

60 grit flap disc for an angle grinder should do the trick. Do you have an angle grinder? If not let me know what you got and I'll try to give a recommendation.

 

[raouliii]

Just don't use an abrasive previously used on non-stainless, i.e. mild steel, as it will contaminate it further.

I'd be more concerned about the crevice/gap that now exists between the outer wall of the kettle and inner surface of the threaded component. That might harbor some nastiness after a few batches. Of course, if it's a boil kettle, it might not create much of a problem.

 

[Bobby_M]

Too bad you didn't have a triclover ferrule welded instead.

 

[ebstauffer]

Too bad you didn't have a triclover ferrule welded instead.

It looks like a TC to FIP upside down!

 

[Jayf19]

60 grit flap disc for an angle grinder should do the trick. Do you have an angle grinder? If not let me know what you got and I'll try to give a recommendation.

Yes I do have one. Just wasn't sure what disc would be more appropriate.

Just don't use an abrasive previously used on non-stainless, i.e. mild steel, as it will contaminate it further.

I'd be more concerned about the crevice/gap that now exists between the outer wall of the kettle and inner surface of the threaded component. That might harbor some nastiness after a few batches. Of course, if it's a boil kettle, it might not create much of a problem.

I filed the unevenness created by the crevice/gap between the wall and inner surface. It's much smoother than on that picture.

For now, this will be my boil kettle; long term it will be converted to my HLT.

Too bad you didn't have a triclover ferrule welded instead.

http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Heat...over_x_1_NPS_p/tc-heating-element-fitting.htm

This is what I got welded on... are you saying that it was welded upside down

 

[raouliii]

....http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Heat...over_x_1_NPS_p/tc-heating-element-fitting.htm

This is what I got welded on... are you saying that it was welded upside down

I believe the linked fitting is meant to be attached to a 1" NPS threaded heating element, not welded to a kettle.
This long TC Ferrule or this short TC Ferrule or even this medium TC Ferrule would have been a better choice to weld to the kettle if it was tri-clover that you going for.

 

[Jayf19]

If your intention was to have a tri-clover connection on the kettle, then yes, it appears to be installed backwards.

Ok no; the intention was to screw the NPT heating element and have the tri-clover rim to allow for an easier weld (I'm no welder so this assumption might not have made any sense).

 

[raouliii]

Ok no; the intention was to screw the NPT heating element and have the tri-clover rim to allow for an easier weld (I'm no welder so this assumption might not have made any sense).

If you were just creating threads for a heating element, then you're good. Tri-clover fittings are used to allow a multitude of connection options to one common point. You just could have used the ferrules linked above and had a much more versatile kettle.

 

[Bobby_M]

If all you wanted was threads, you could have done that for $6 instead of $27 http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/1_In..._Nut_Electric_Thread_p/1inch-nps-lock-nut.htm

But the real reason I said you should have had a TC ferrule welded was so that you can easily remove the element AND have wiring protection.

 

[Jayf19]

If all you wanted was threads, you could have done that for $6 instead of $27

I didn't think I could have used a simple lock nut; thought I needed more meat to be able to get a good weld... good to know for future vessels!

I did consider TC fittings at some point, but I had to make some cuts on my budget. I built my heating element around Kal's waterproof design (The Electric Brewery).

 

[Cashjon]

The reason it sugared is because of the heat it was welded with and thus oxygen causes sugaring inside, it will rust there eventually. If you would or whomever welded it would have sealed it off and purged the vessel you would have had no sugar but metal there where the burn threw happened. I am a high pressure welder and I have a stainless keg with fittings wedged on, I purged with argon while welding and have not got sugaring.