I am in the process of converting a keg to a keggle. I have the top cut and a lid for it and now I am about to get my couplings welded to the shell. I see some guys drill the whole slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the coupling and weld to the outside of the shell, while other drill and weld the coupling half inside and half out side of the shell. Why would somebody chose to do either method and what are the benefits of each? From what I have seen, the height that you drill your coupling hole off of the bottom of the keg is based on length of your pick-up tube, correct? I would also like to install a sight glass and thermometer. I would imagine the sight glass placement is determined by your particular setup. Is there any pros or cons as to where to locate it? I also noticed that guys that have a gravity system typically have their ball valve 90 degrees from their thermometer, while guys that have a single tier system have both in front. What are the pros and cons of these two options? My plan is to use a Jaybird false bottom with a center pick-up tube, but how do guys use the side pick-up tube? Thanks for any input.
Keggle Layout Question
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mikescooling
Well-Known Member
Ya know it's easier to move/cut the pick-up tube, than move the hole. The ball valves are placed as low as possible. I know some guys like to use nipples because you can thread them tight in place and have less to weld. Side note, try to keep everything away from the holes in the skirt of the keg, fire comes out those holes
mikescooling
Well-Known Member
If you drill the hole just right, it is so tight that you have the to tread the nipple in and I assume the guys screw a coupler on the inside of the keg. Another tip, make sure the rolled edge of the skirt has holes drilled in it to let the pressure out.
Mongrel
Well-Known Member
This one is very important
Thermo centered, just under the bottom of the two rolled hoops. Ball valve/bulkhead about 3" left of that, as low as possible. Sight glass about 3" right of center, as low as possible.
revco
Well-Known Member
I had my couplers welded flush to the outside, figuring if I ever needed space inside, I didn't want couplers taking it up. I didn't really see any major advantages/disadvantages either way, so I just did it how I did it.
I went with a relatively inline setup across the bottom for my sightglass, valve and thermometer because I wanted maximum drainage, maximum sightglass visibility and wanted the thermometer to hit around the 4 gallon mark for 5 gallon batches. (Thermometer over the valve commonly gets above the 5 gallon mark, so if you're below that, you're unable to read your temps.) The sightglass and valve fittings are as low as possible (the bottom of the coupler is barely above the skirt weld) with the thermometer port slightly elevated.
My biggest suggestion is to try to plan things out so you can remove/install everything without having to remove/install something else. I thought I had measured mine perfectly, but turns out that one was perfect and one was a hair off. (It's hard to plan this out, it's a spacial nightmare...are least for my brain.) What I'm saying is that I can't remove my sightglass without removing my valve. I can't remove my valve without removing my thermometer. It's not a big deal, but it's one of those measurement things that should probably be done three times.
Side pickups are commonly used in BK's and HLT's, not so much MLT's where center pickups are common. Your coupler position (flush, halfway, etc.) can affect the true center point of the pickup tube, so in that case, I'd recommend having Jay custom make you one since he accounts for this. On your HLT or BK, it doesn't matter as much so long as you hit somewhere around the center depression of the keg.
I went with a relatively inline setup across the bottom for my sightglass, valve and thermometer because I wanted maximum drainage, maximum sightglass visibility and wanted the thermometer to hit around the 4 gallon mark for 5 gallon batches. (Thermometer over the valve commonly gets above the 5 gallon mark, so if you're below that, you're unable to read your temps.) The sightglass and valve fittings are as low as possible (the bottom of the coupler is barely above the skirt weld) with the thermometer port slightly elevated.
My biggest suggestion is to try to plan things out so you can remove/install everything without having to remove/install something else. I thought I had measured mine perfectly, but turns out that one was perfect and one was a hair off. (It's hard to plan this out, it's a spacial nightmare...are least for my brain.) What I'm saying is that I can't remove my sightglass without removing my valve. I can't remove my valve without removing my thermometer. It's not a big deal, but it's one of those measurement things that should probably be done three times.
Side pickups are commonly used in BK's and HLT's, not so much MLT's where center pickups are common. Your coupler position (flush, halfway, etc.) can affect the true center point of the pickup tube, so in that case, I'd recommend having Jay custom make you one since he accounts for this. On your HLT or BK, it doesn't matter as much so long as you hit somewhere around the center depression of the keg.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
IMO/IME, a dial thermometer installed in a boil kettle/keggle is nigh on useless. It's really just 'bling' and one more thing to make sure seals 100%. There are far better, and more accurate, ways to get temperature readings when needed. I've even removed the thermometer from my keggle mash tun. The probe was getting in the way and I couldn't trust the dial thermometer to be accurate. A solid digital (or even liquid lab) thermometer is of more use, more accurate, and won't get in the way. Plus, it doesn't matter how much wort/water/volume is in the vessel.
I'm using a higher grade thermometer setup for brewing now. I have several probes to connect into the thermometer so I can get accurate readings without issue. I also don't need to open the mash tun to get a solid temperature reading. When I'm chilling my wort, I have one sensor right at the plate chiller output and another in the boil keggle (I recirculate while chilling initially). I can place these sensors wherever I want, including the middle of the keggle/mash tun (any depth since they're also sealed).
I know, for many, the dial thermometer does the job (for them). I wanted more flexibility and ease of use. With almost 7' of line on the thermometers (protected in high temp tolerant material, then wrapped in stainless braid) I can place the reader in one spot and get two readings (from sensors). I can also simply plug in other sensors as I need a reading from them, though I'm usually good with just two at a time/stage. Such as having one probe in the HLT for it's temperature while the other is in the mash tun. I can have the thermometer either between them, or off to the side. It's also back-lit so lighting conditions have zero impact. :rockin:
If anyone wants to know more, PM me.
I'm using a higher grade thermometer setup for brewing now. I have several probes to connect into the thermometer so I can get accurate readings without issue. I also don't need to open the mash tun to get a solid temperature reading. When I'm chilling my wort, I have one sensor right at the plate chiller output and another in the boil keggle (I recirculate while chilling initially). I can place these sensors wherever I want, including the middle of the keggle/mash tun (any depth since they're also sealed).
I know, for many, the dial thermometer does the job (for them). I wanted more flexibility and ease of use. With almost 7' of line on the thermometers (protected in high temp tolerant material, then wrapped in stainless braid) I can place the reader in one spot and get two readings (from sensors). I can also simply plug in other sensors as I need a reading from them, though I'm usually good with just two at a time/stage. Such as having one probe in the HLT for it's temperature while the other is in the mash tun. I can have the thermometer either between them, or off to the side. It's also back-lit so lighting conditions have zero impact. :rockin:
If anyone wants to know more, PM me.
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