Kegging Question

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Philipp Holtkamp

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Hi,

I bought a corny keg and system 2 weeks ago and the store owner told me you don't really have to cool it while carbonating just that you need to raise the pressure to 20-25 psi so it absorbs it better. I am finally getting a kegerator later today and plan to move my keg that's currently at 25 psi into the kegerator. What do I need to lower the pressure to on the regulator and do I need to relieve some pressure in the keg before putting it into the kegerator?

Thanks!
 
Typical serving pressure is around 8-12 psi and yes you should first relieve some of the pressure before adjusting the regulator to the lower psi. How long was your beer at 20-25 psi? It may be a bit over carbonated if it has sat at that pressure for more than 3-4 days.
 
about 1 week. However it was also sitting at room temperature of around 68 degrees and the carbonation tables show that it should be higher psi the high the temp.
 
True. I would disconnect your keg from the CO2 and stick it in the kegerator for 2-3 days to cool down. Then reconnect it to CO2 and set the regulator to 10 psi. Pour yourself a beer and adjust the psi up or down if needed.
 
Don't just use some randomly recommended pressure setting, lest you eventually start a thread titled "Help! My beer is all foam!" like hundreds if not thousands of folks over the years here.

Instead, reference our favorite carbonation table to correctly set the CO2 pressure vs temperature to hit a predictable level of carbonation, expressed in "volumes of CO2", where 2.4-2.5 is about right for most ale styles...

1589574334919.png


And be prepared to give a full five gallon keg two weeks at that temperature/pressure combination (or any other temperature/pressure combination that equates to the same volumes of CO2).

forced_carbonation_plot.gif


On the up side, the beer will be conditioning and brightening over that time as well...

Cheers!
 
Don't just use some randomly recommended pressure setting, lest you eventually start a thread titled "Help! My beer is all foam!" like hundreds if not thousands of folks over the years here.

I wouldn't call my recommendation of 8-12 psi random. That will result in 2.0-2.5 vol of CO2 for beers served from 35-45F... which covers most beer styles. I just assumed the OP wanted a simple answer.

1589574334919.jpg
 
Point being, a new kegger should avail themselves of the tools they're going to need - forever - rather than relying on the kindness of strangers ;)
Also, there's no such thing as "serving pressure"...

Cheers!
 
Hi,

I bought a corny keg and system 2 weeks ago and the store owner told me you don't really have to cool it while carbonating just that you need to raise the pressure to 20-25 psi so it absorbs it better. I am finally getting a kegerator later today and plan to move my keg that's currently at 25 psi into the kegerator. What do I need to lower the pressure to on the regulator and do I need to relieve some pressure in the keg before putting it into the kegerator?

Thanks!

While I guess it’s technically true “you don’t really have to cool it”, it’s better to do so if you can. First, it takes less co2 pressure at lower temps to reach the same carbonation, so you’re using less of your co2. The chart posted shows this. (I have this chart printed and taped inside my kegerator.) Second, homebrew just doesn’t store well at room temp. Its not filtered like commercial beer. The little yeast that may have been carried into the keg can start reproducing again even under pressure, which can at least cloud your beer if not eventually produce off flavors. Any bacteria or contaminants can also get started and get a foothold better at room temp. 25 psi at room temp will be too much when that is cooled to 45 degrees or lower.
 
While I guess it’s technically true “you don’t really have to cool it”, it’s better to do so if you can. First, it takes less co2 pressure at lower temps to reach the same carbonation, so you’re using less of your co2. The chart posted shows this. (I have this chart printed and taped inside my kegerator.) Second, homebrew just doesn’t store well at room temp. Its not filtered like commercial beer. The little yeast that may have been carried into the keg can start reproducing again even under pressure, which can at least cloud your beer if not eventually produce off flavors. Any bacteria or contaminants can also get started and get a foothold better at room temp. 25 psi at room temp will be too much when that is cooled to 45 degrees or lower.

That's a load of nonsense:

- if you carb your beer to a certain CO2 content you'll use up the same amount of CO2 no matter what temperature you do it at. The amount required is given by the required increase in CO2 content per unit of volume times the total volume. CO2 doesn't get "used up" and barring any leaks it will all be absorbed by the beer regardless of temperature.
- beer in general ages and stores well at room temperature. There are beer styles that actually benefit from conditioning at temperatures as high as 30°C (think Belgian styles). If you're doing a tradiotional lager then this is not the case but that's a specific case and cannot be generalized.
- yeast will not "start reproducing" just because you raise the temperature as it also needs food (and oxygen BTW) to start doing that. If your beer is fully fermented there is no more food available (hopefully no O2 as well) and so your beer will not cloud up with yeast just because you store it warm.
- if there isn't an inordinate amount of headspace in the keg 25 PSI at room temperature when cooled to a lower temp will stabilize at the pressure corresponding to the same carbonation level. The beer will not remain at 25 PSI and magically become overcarbonated, which is what you seem to be implying.

It's true that infections will progress faster at room temperature but the solution to that is good sanitation practices (i.e. not getting your beer infected in the first place) and not keeping your beer cold so as to slow down infection.
Incidentally, beer absorbs CO2 faster at room temperature so forced carbonation will require less time the higher the temperature is, provided of course you set the regulator to the correspondingly higher pressure, which as already mentioned has zero side effects on the process.
 
Wrt dispensing - as opposed to whatever method of carbonation is used - the best advice I can give is to first use the table to determine the proper CO2 pressure to use to maintain the desired carbonation level with the beer at dispensing temperature.
Then use the only beer line length calculator worth using to tune the beer lines to handle the pressure used.
http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
Cheers!
 

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