Kegerator questions

[BradTheGeek]

This past summer, I scored big. 4 ball lock kegs, 20lb tank, 4 port manifold, 3 taps, one picnic tap, regulator, gauges, disconnects, and an old fridge. Got it all at a yard sale from a former brewer cheap. Hadn't been used in years.

Long story short, the fridge died. It was sort of expected, and the price I paid reflected that. So far all I have used is one keg and the picnic tap as all else required cleaning/refurbing.

I just bought another full size top freezer fridge from a local habitat store for a good deal. It works great, and now comes build time. Especially since I just kegged a stout that is sitting in there waiting for more than a picnic tap.

• So, my questions.. any pointers on size/type of drill bit to put the tap shanks through?
• Should I put the taps in the side or the door? I am thinking the door, as I may either move or rearrange, and I would hate to have the taps on the wrong side. However, keeping lines out of the way when changing kegs, etc seems it may be a pain or prone to problems if they are attached to the door.
• Should I yang the bottom glass and build a wood shelf? I have a piece of MDF sitting on the glass now, but it has to have some sort of shelf as the bottom is stepped at a slope, and I worry about the weight on the glass that
  is over the crisper drawers.
• Anythign else you think a newb may not think of!

 

[FloppyKnockers]

1) Split point, twist, or brad point should works fine. Just slightly larger than the shank.
2) Yes. If that setup works best in your situation. Through the side is another option, again, only if that setup works best in your situation.
3) Or you could ying it. Definitely wood shelf. I'd stay away from MDF though as this engineered wood soaks up moisture like a sponge.
4) Don't drink beer with a straw.

 

[RedRaiderDavid]

Ok I just did all this as I completely rebuilt my 2 tap kegerator expanding it to 4 taps including replacing my existing beer lines.

I used a 1" hole saw and it was the perfect size. Be sure to get a bi-metal one, they are just a few dollars more than a standard wood hole saw but trust me it makes going through the metal on the fridge quick work. Also make sure if it doesn't already have a drill bit in the middle you put one in there to hold the blade in place.
Totally your choice most are through the door, as are mine. The lines getting in the way aren't really an issue. The main downside of putting them in the front are if you put the taps are a reasonable height if you put cool tap handles on you can't open the freezer door without opening all of your faucets. Some bypass this by securing the freezer and fridge door so they open and close as one. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, I just have the basic black handles.
I did build my own shelf, I wouldn't trust glass to hold multiple kegs. Like floppy says don't use MDF, it doesn't like being wet. Get some plywood, a few supporting 2x4 legs and done. I made sure I had enough room for bottles under my shelf.
More advice? If you have multiple beer lines you need to balance your lines. They need to be the same length which is determined by line size, and typical co2 level. There are charts and calculators out there. I have 4 taps and have about 3 feet per tap of 3/16 line optimized for around 12 psi which is right in the middle for the types of beer I drink.
Another tip is to make sure you have a solid backing to secure your faucets to. I just cut some of the extra plywood I used for my shelf to use as a backing. Also, if I were doing it again I would get a deep socket that fits the faucet nut.