Depending on the beer being brewed I really fond I like 3-4 weeks in the bottle depending on style etc etc. My question is...if you carbonate with co2, or force carbonate a keg at 30 psi and rocking will your beer taste the same? Or is letting it gradually carbonate in keg with a serving psi say like 5-10 psi a better option to gain a better aged beer?
Keg vs. Bottle conditioning?
- Thread starter IanPC
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I use the two week, set and forget, method for carbonating my kegs (2+ weeks at serving pressure and temperature). I also have to wait for a tap to be available before that keg can move to it. Plus, I give my brew enough time in primary/bulk to become great and not need more time conditioning before it's wonderful... If you rush the brew through fermenting, then you'll probably need more time conditioning in either bottle or keg (that won't change). Aging/conditioning happens faster at room temp than at fridge temps.
Personally, I really like my brew off of tap better than when bottle carbonated. For one thing, I can adjust the carbonation level with it in keg. Virtually impossible (or damned tricky) to do when you bottle.
Personally, I really like my brew off of tap better than when bottle carbonated. For one thing, I can adjust the carbonation level with it in keg. Virtually impossible (or damned tricky) to do when you bottle.
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2011
- Messages
- 665
- Reaction score
- 56
I feel like Belgians should always be bottle conditioned, also I like Barleywines and Imperial Stouts that way. Otherwise, keg that bad boy.
I'm doing my homework on kegs and so far the style is irrelevant. I have room for pin and ball lock. I was actually toying with the idea of splitting it up. 3 gal keg and bottle the rest for ****s and gigs. Now if I'm looking to say, have 2, 5 gal corny kegs, what kind of regulator should I get?
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Depends... Are you looking for two different carbonation levels? If so, get a dual body regulator. If not, get a single body regulator and a manifold. I'd suggest getting a Taprite regulator over others. I had a Chudnow (dual body) and replaced it with a Taprite. MUCH happier with the Taprite. Especially since I don't need a screwdriver to adjust the PSI coming out of it.
mrgstiffler
Well-Known Member
3 gallon kegs are tough since you don't really find used ones. You're stuck paying $100+ for them. For the regulator, make sure you get a double body. Otherwise you'll be carbing 2 different beers to the same volume. I've had wheats and stouts on tap at the same time. There's a big difference between 1.80 and 3.80 volumes.
ScottSingleton
Well-Known Member
+1 to the Taprite. Having to find a screwdriver all the time is lame :/
I prime in my kegs; mostly because I have only room for two kegs in the fridge and don't want to wait the two weeks to set them on gas and carb.
If I have a lower carbonated batch like a stout I typically bottle that as it's not a day-to-day beer with me.
I prime in my kegs; mostly because I have only room for two kegs in the fridge and don't want to wait the two weeks to set them on gas and carb.
If I have a lower carbonated batch like a stout I typically bottle that as it's not a day-to-day beer with me.
mrgstiffler
Well-Known Member
Keep an eye on the Vendor Showcase section.
ScottSingleton
Well-Known Member
I use 1/4" air lines, 3/16" beverage lines. Both of those fit over 1/4" barbs.
the 3/16" beer line is better because it runs at 3psi per foot which reduces pressure at your tap and reduces foaming at the faucet.
the 3/16" beer line is better because it runs at 3psi per foot which reduces pressure at your tap and reduces foaming at the faucet.
I ran across a site that had them with different barbs so I wasn't sure about it. 1/4 sounds good to me. I think first I will decide how many kegs I really want 1 or 2, I am going with 5 gallon. 2 kegs w/ picnic taps, dual regulator, 5lb co2 cylinder should be 3-350 from the prices I've seen. Does that seem right?
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Keg Connection would be my choice...
Get the swivel nuts and everything the lines (both beer and gas) connect to with the mfl/threaded connections (QD's for one). I would also go with Oetiker clamps over the worm clamps in a nanosecond. You should get the regulator with mfl connections on the feeds (Keg Connection can change the shutoff valves on it for you, IF you ask them).
3/16" beer hose (ID) on 1/4" barbed swivel nuts. I use the red 5/16" ID red gas hose form Keg Connection.
I would also get the bulkheads to pass the gas feeds into the fridge from the outside. FAR easier (IMO/IME) to tweak the pressure with a dual body regulator on the outside of the fridge.
Picnic taps are ok to start, but you quickly learn their limits. Especially when you compare them with Perlick faucets (525 and 575 models). I had the picnic taps initially, but changed over to proper Perlick faucets pretty quickly. With three taps through the door of the fridge, it's nice. Especially since I select whichever brew I want at that moment, and don't need to open up the fridge to pour a glass/pint.
I would also highly recommend getting an aluminum CO2 tank over a steel one. Especially if you're going to get something over 5#. The steel tanks weigh about twice what the aluminum tanks weigh. I would also look to see if there's a place close to you that will refill the CO2 tank at a decent rate. Check for places that recharge fire extinguishers. That's where I go.
I would also make sure that the regulator is 100% Taprite. Not just a Taprite body, but the gauges and all. IMO/IME, it really does make a difference. Getting everything from a solid vendor is also very important. Keg Connection has a solid track record with me. Not to say things don't go weird from time to time, but they take care of it (making it right) without a fight. To me, that's huge. Well worth the few dollars you MIGHT save by going someplace cheaper.
