Keg to Bottom Drain MLT Help

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I’ve been looking for a keg to convert into a bottom drain MLT for my E-HERMS for a while, and the other day my neighbor gave me the keg pictured below. It had been sitting under his back porch for at least as long I’ve lived here (~5 years), and has definitely seen better days. I asked him about it a few months back and he said he was going to turn it into a boil pot for seafood, but he recently changed his mind. According to him it came from his friend at a local distributor who got rid of it because it was damaged. Well it’s definitely bent out of shape, judging by the bent bottom rim (second pic) I think it probably was drop off the back of a truck.

So my question is where should I cut it open? For most conversions a ~12” hole is cut in the top (or in this case bottom), but I’m hesitant to do that due to the bent skirt. I’m thinking that instead of trying to bend the skirt back to shape, I’ll just cut at the weld that joins the bottom and skirt (third pic). I’m not concerned about losing that little bit of volume as I generally brew 5 gallon batches. What do you guys think?

 

[pickles]

I can tell you from experience that you and your neighbor together will have a near impossible time trying to bend that back. That stainless steel that's been rolled is so freaking (Todd Hoffman) hard! You could easily cut it at the weld. I've seen folks do that. I also have sankes that I've inverted and attached a 2" tri-clamp like you planning and it is that cats ass!

 

[rgauthier20420]

As pickles says, I wouldn't even worry about bending. Just cut the whole top off. I've actually got one of those insulated kegs at home that I'm converting to an MLT too and I'll be doing the same thing....cutting the whole top part off. Your really not loosing all that much space, plus it'll be easier form a nice insulated top for it.

I highly suggest this piece of equipment though. It'll work right with the 2" coupler on there. I've got it already sitting on it, and it's perfect. Can't beat the price either.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I highly suggest this piece of equipment though. It'll work right with the 2" coupler on there. I've got it already sitting on it, and it's perfect. Can't beat the price either.

I was planning on going that way, I'm thinking of going TC flange>tee with temp probe>ball valve>cam lock. I already have everything except the TC from my cooler MLT. All I need to get is the TC flange and maybe a 15" jaybird FB.

 

[Cioffi]

I’ve been looking for a keg to convert into a bottom drain MLT for my E-HERMS for a while, and the other day my neighbor gave me the keg pictured below. It had been sitting under his back porch for at least as long I’ve lived here (~5 years), and has definitely seen better days. I asked him about it a few months back and he said he was going to turn it into a boil pot for seafood, but he recently changed his mind. According to him it came from his friend at a local distributor who got rid of it because it was damaged. Well it’s definitely bent out of shape, judging by the bent bottom rim (second pic) I think it probably was drop off the back of a truck.

So my question is where should I cut it open? For most conversions a ~12” hole is cut in the top (or in this case bottom), but I’m hesitant to do that due to the bent skirt. I’m thinking that instead of trying to bend the skirt back to shape, I’ll just cut at the weld that joins the bottom and skirt (third pic). I’m not concerned about losing that little bit of volume as I generally brew 5 gallon batches. What do you guys think?

I just did what you're proposing to a keg in similar shape. So, I have a bottom-drain MT with a bent up skirt at the top. I simply free-hand cut an opening in the bottom of the keg which now is the top and use the tap connection for a bottom drain (tri-clover fitting from Bobby's online store). The bent skirt, other than looking like crap, doesn't impact function.

Todd

 

[Bobby_M]

I would just cut that skirt off, then cut your hole based on whatever lid you can find.

I have the TC fitting kit for the bottom drain and all full hinge folding false bottoms.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I would just cut that skirt off, then cut your hole based on whatever lid you can find.

I have the TC fitting kit for the bottom drain and all full hinge folding false bottoms.

As much time as I've spent on your site looking at fittings, I never noticed that you carried false bottoms.

I assume that both ends of a keg are the same diameter, and that 15" FB will seat the same over the coupler as it does over the bottom (i.e. no need for a stand etc.)?

 

[rgauthier20420]

As much time as I've spent on your site looking at fittings, I never noticed that you carried false bottoms.

I assume that both ends of a keg are the same diameter, and that 15" FB will seat the same over the coupler as it does over the bottom (i.e. no need for a stand etc.)?

Not knocking Bobby's equipment at all, but if you used a false bottom previously that should do the trick for the keg MLT right? That's my plan, but do correct me if I'm wrong so I know I need to buy more stuff from Bobby

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I have a 12" homemade false bottom in my 10 gal round cooler MLT now, but I want a tight fit so I need to get a 15"

 

[Cioffi]

I would just cut that skirt off, then cut your hole based on whatever lid you can find.

I have the TC fitting kit for the bottom drain and all full hinge folding false bottoms.

Bobby's kits work great. Not sure I'd take the time to cut the skirt off, but with a good cutting disk it shouldn't take too much time.

 

[Cioffi]

I would just cut that skirt off, then cut your hole based on whatever lid you can find.

I have the TC fitting kit for the bottom drain and all full hinge folding false bottoms.

By the way, Bobby, have you thought of an idea to hold the false bottom down in the MT, given the bottom drain? I'm thinking a false bottom, by itself, might move initially as the grain moves around by stirring and the like.

 

[herc1354]

Really I can't see how the false bottom would move enough to allow much grain past. Curious how this works out, I'm going the rout if bottom drain MLT myself.

 

[tflew]

Definitely doable. Cutting at the skirt is actually a pretty easy cut. Not to undermine Bobby but I'm selling the parts to my bottom drain MT keggle if your interested. Seems like you have most of the pieces anyways. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/bottom-drain-mash-tun-450502/

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Mmmm... 5+ year old miller light... yum

Still smells the same, but I'm not doing a tasting...



I don't know how common this is but my miller keg had the same kind of spear as the Anheuser-Busch kegs.

 

[herc1354]

All american Sanky kegs are all the same, just different breweries are stamped on the outside. The Speer from a 1/4 keg that is from Harpoon fits a 1/2 keg of another brewery.

 

[rgauthier20420]

Let's see some pics of the the progress!

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I decided to just cut it at the weld, I'll find a 15" lid somewhere.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

After 20min of scrubbing with bar keepers friend...


The coupler was a real pain to clean, but the inside looks brand new... except for all the dings, and the bottom being cut off

 

[jimmayhugh]

By the way, Bobby, have you thought of an idea to hold the false bottom down in the MT, given the bottom drain? I'm thinking a false bottom, by itself, might move initially as the grain moves around by stirring and the like.

I've used my bottom-drain MLT numerous times with one of NorCal's false bottoms with no problems.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I know it's too late, since ya' already did the cut, but have a look here, at how I salvaged a keg with a smashed ring:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=114559

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I know it's too late, since ya' already did the cut, but have a look here, at how I salvaged a keg with a smashed ring:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=114559

That's awesome, I wish I had that level of know how. How did knocking out the dent in the bottom go? As you can see in the pic above I've got a flat spot near the dish. I figure it would take something heavy duty to round it back out.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

The dent came out well, I used a piece of hardwood and a dead blow hammer, ( just a heavy, no bounce hammer), and start out EASY!.
Start from one end of your dent to the other, checking your movement after every blow.

It'll come out...........The area may be a little "stretched" afterward, but will pose no problems.

The key is to work slow, and tap it only enough to get some movement.

A baseball bat works well, as your "drift" punch, and a heavy hammer.

Let the hammer do the work, and aim your "drift" well.

 

[Cioffi]

I've used my bottom-drain MLT numerous times with one of NorCal's false bottoms with no problems.

Do you anything holding down the false bottom? Or, does the grain bed hold it down?

 

[jimmayhugh]

Do you anything holding down the false bottom? Or, does the grain bed hold it down?

Just the grain bed.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Just to close the loop, I got a false bottom and the TC hardware to convert the keg to a MLT. I first punched a hole for the recirculation port and used my flap disc to knock off some spot rust.







Then I wrapped it in a couple of layers of reflectix.



Today was going to be its maiden voyage, but my water Chugger is OOC. For some reason the impeller is decoupling, worked fine last month




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[rgauthier20420]

Looks good. Any reason you didn't decide to the the Tee with a pipe towards the front of the stand? Would make it easier for hose changes and the like.

Regardless, looks good.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Thanks! I still might put the hose connection up front, but before I start making any new holes in my stand I'm gonna try out this config. One thing in favor of just the valve is it has almost no dead space, which is handy for the mostly CIP process I have planned.


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[rgauthier20420]

Thanks! I still might put the hose connection up front, but before I start making any new holes in my stand I'm gonna try out this config. One thing in favor of just the valve is it has almost no dead space, which is handy for the mostly CIP process I have planned.


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I can see holding off for now in regards to drilling the stand, but dead space in a 3" piece of .5" pipe is practically nill. My MLT and BK are both bottom drain now, and I use one of those tan chinese pumps for moving everything. Having the valves on the front makes connecting the pump to everything so much easier and more than worth it.

Again, either way, your gonna love the bottom drain MLT. I've only used my once it was great to just get over it and spray it down and call it a day on cleaning that vessel.

 

[BiggieB400]

Looks good. What did you end up using for the top/lid?

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I went with this: http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/update-international/alpc-26/p4912.aspx

It covers the opening well, but if you can find something maybe 1/4" bigger that would be a little tighter. The MLT held temp when I was running hot oxyclean, it only lost a couple of degrees over 30min, without additional heat (like when I would recirculate with my full HERMS).


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