just freaking pissed.stupid pump

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I bought a chugger a few batches ago. Bottom line is by having a bleed valve on the inlet side you will not have problems with priming.


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Outlet side. If you only bleed to the inlet side, the air in the pump is not bled.
 
Inlet side has worked best. You can only bleed the outlet side if the pump is on and you will lose more fluid.


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Inlet side has worked best. You can only bleed the outlet side if the pump is on and you will lose more fluid.


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Huh? Why would the pump have to be on? I'd put it on the outlet, so your pump head is full.

I see no reason to have the pump on since I could gravity transfer through a pump with out having it on.
 
Probably because it doesn't read over 212?
I verified my temps with not only my brewing thermometer (calibrated in boiling water), but my NSF rated meat thermometer...that reads from 30-220F. And I have calibrated it with both a freeze test, and a boil test. I can assure you, sugar raises the boiling point of water.

Here's the wiki article for further reading if you wish:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiling-point_elevation

If your thermometer reads over 213, at sea level, while brewing beer, you have a thermometer problem.

Most worts are 10-15% sugar by weight. A huge RIS might be 20%. The boiling point will not get past 215*F until about 40% sugar by weight.

It is NOT linear. Once you boil off 80-90% of the water the temperature starts to shoot up VERY quickly, but not until then.

The sugar concentrations of typical wort will not materially affect the boiling point. Your elevation will actually make a bigger difference.


Now as for the OPs problems.... I can recirculate boiling wort with my Chugger no problem. It makes some different noises and is pumping hundreds of tiny bubbles, but it keeps it moving just fine.

I always open all valves and flood the head completely before turning the pump on -- never had a problem.
 

Lol a photo means nothing. It was probably assembled by the photographer. I remember the $900 sabco chill wizard had some weird misconfiguration in the professional photo of it...

Regardless, Do what works for you.

Edit: I did read their FAQ:

Priming pumps made easy
Some people wonder why we put the “priming tee” on the inlet rather than the outlet. The priming ball valve is there to allow air pockets out, and if it is positioned after the pump head, the air bubbles would get caught in the pump head and continue to cavitate.

So that set-up is how they ship it, but I still disagree because my set up has enough pressure to almost push the liquid into the second kettle. The issue is I get back pressure build up on the out side. With the valve on the out side, it floods the head for me. If I had it on the other side, it would shoot out wort and still not flood my head because of the pressure build up by the 10+ gal of liquid.

So again do what works for you.
 
Plus, I have my pump set up with the inlet pointing down and the outlet pointing up. In that configuration, I can't imagine how air would get out below the pump head.
 
I dont know guys, both my little $20-30 tan and topsflo plastic pumps pump hot wort while boiling just fine... I use one the recirculate wort and keep it flowing through my hop cup and to sterilize my plate chiller while the heat is still on...
if a big expensive stainless pump like the chugger cant handle the temps then thats pretty sad.

What kind of pump do you use? I'm not familiar with those and a google search didn't turn up much? Got a link to where you got them? By the way, I was just in North Tonawanda with my wife for a Roller Derby bout. It's a pretty cool little town.
 
What kind of pump do you use? I'm not familiar with those and a google search didn't turn up much? Got a link to where you got them? By the way, I was just in North Tonawanda with my wife for a Roller Derby bout. It's a pretty cool little town.

easyconnect-still.jpg


They sell on amazon for cheap. They're popular over seas.

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6619
 
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