Just finished my dual-element electric BIAB setup

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butterblum

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I just wanted to give some ideas to anyone looking to do an eBIAB setup.
I just need a hose for water supply and a hose for a drain from my CFC, and I am ready to brew. I proofed the electronics tonight - everything is working.
Is there a better way to waterproof the locking L6-30R connectors?
Thanks!
 

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Find an "O" ring that fits snugly between the receptacle housing and element base. Silicone is best for heat resistance. I believe Brewhardware.com sells suitable "O" rings.

Brew on :mug:
 
I just wanted to give some ideas to anyone looking to do an eBIAB setup.
I just need a hose for water supply and a hose for a drain from my CFC, and I am ready to brew. I proofed the electronics tonight - everything is working.
Is there a better way to waterproof the locking L6-30R connectors?
Thanks!

Nice setup!

For the water side of your CFC, you really don't need anything fancy but it does need to be able to hold against house pressure - silicone tubing won't handle that, and it's way too expensive to use for that application anyway. Buy a hot water garden hose, and cut it to length. Add some fittings and you're done!

For the electrical connector, there are waterproof ones out there but they aren't cheap: https://www.gamut.com/p/hubbell-watertight-nema-turn-locking-connector-2-poles-3-blades-MjM2MjYy These are used where I work with wet washdown going on around portable equipment.
 
Love your setup. I would make one suggestion though, instead of the 3 way valve you have on your kettle whirlpool port I would put in 2 check valves. Since you're not using it to select the direction of the flow but rather to block recirculation it would serve the same purpose but you could never mistakenly leave it in the wrong position. One less thing to do.
 
what elements are you using? 120v?how does the controller control both of them??
looks nice btw!
I bought almost everything from Bobby at Brewhardware, with the exception of the whirlpool arm and heating elements. The elements are the Denord 1500W stainless elements that you can find on Amazon. They have a 1.5" TC flange and L6-30 prongs built in, so it's really easy to remove them from the kettle and connect them to your power cords.
There is a separate 120V supply for each of the elements - and the controller runs off of the supply for the first element.
I have it wired such that the hot line of voltage source 1, through the first switch on the panel and a NC E-Stop, activates a contactor, which when closed, allows both voltage sources to flow to the controller and elements. Because of this, if the GFCI for the first outlet trips, it opens the contactor up, preventing either voltage source from powering the panel's internal components.
I just use the EZBoil's digital output to control both SSRs - thus they are always operating in sync. However, I have a second switch on the panel to turn on/off the second element if it is too much.
 
Love your setup. I would make one suggestion though, instead of the 3 way valve you have on your kettle whirlpool port I would put in 2 check valves. Since you're not using it to select the direction of the flow but rather to block recirculation it would serve the same purpose but you could never mistakenly leave it in the wrong position. One less thing to do.

I just use it to select which loop returns liquid to the kettle, because my CFC restricts the flow so much. But I agree with you, two check valves would serve the same purpose and you wouldn't have to turn another valve.
 
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I should also mention what I consider to be the most utilitarian part of my setup. That top TC port is the connection point for three different devices during the brew day. First, I have a LocLine recirculation return with a camlock fitting for the mash. Then I remove that for the boil, and use a steam condenser to eliminate humidity. Then I remove that, and add the whirlpool arm with ball valve, and connect the recirculation hose to the bottom of the 3-way valve.
 
I just use it to select which loop returns liquid to the kettle, because my CFC restricts the flow so much. But I agree with you, two check valves would serve the same purpose and you wouldn't have to turn another valve.

I'm not a big fan of check valves. Any little bit of debris (grain, hops, etc.) that hangs up in them and they leak. Harder to clean than a ball valve. Your three-way valve is very simple and pretty foolproof.
 
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