I've got a corny keg that has a post with buggered up threads.

[The Original Slim]

This is the gas side post. The threads are slightly cross threaded (it looks like although I can see very well even with my glasses on). I don't even see how the post would come out to be changed. Anyone have any experience with this type of thing?

 

[day_trippr]

I expect the threaded risers are welded or braised or otherwise permanently attached to the keg top and are thus totally non serviceable.
About the best you could do is to chase the threads somehow...maybe find a die for your thread type?

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

There's also a chip off the side of the top flange. However, the mating surface itself is still flat, the diptube o-ring will probably still seal it.

About the best you could do is to chase the threads somehow...maybe find a die for your thread type?

That thread die could be pricey, unless he has the right connections...

I'd try "chasing" it with a good post, first, making 100% sure it's going straight down, not to exacerbate the problem.
The threads themselves don't seal, the diptube flange makes a seal on a narrow rim inside the post. So as long as the post tightens straight down, it should make the seal.

 

[The Original Slim]

I expect the threaded risers are welded or braised or otherwise permanently attached to the keg top and are thus totally non serviceable.
About the best you could do is to chase the threads somehow...maybe find a die for your thread type?

Cheers!

Welded or braised is a solid possibility.I wonder what a machine shop would charge to clean up the threads.? A die that size would probably run $25+. Looks like you can't "like" a response at the same time you reply. Thanks for the help.

 

[The Original Slim]

There's also a chip off the side of the top flange. However, the mating surface itself is still flat, the diptube o-ring will probably still seal it.


That thread die could be pricey, unless he has the right connections...

I'd try "chasing" it with a good post, first, making 100% sure it's going straight down, not to exacerbate the problem.
The threads themselves don't seal, the diptube flange makes a seal on a narrow rim inside the post. So as long as the post tightens straight down, it should make the seal.

I gave it a half hearted try. but it really didn't want to catch a thread. I'll figure something out hopefully. Thanks for the advice too.

 

[Clickeral]

Could look to slow tack weld it up (so not to distort) and then run a die over but tipping cost would be more then another keg

Could always drill out and ads a weldless bulk head but not ideal either

 

[FloppyKnockers]

At the price of used kegs nowadays, I would put throwing that one in the recycle bin and getting another one as a viable solution.

I've got some I'll let go for cheap, cheap, cheap if you're in north Texas.

 

[whoaru99]

I'd probably try to clean up the threads using an assortment of jeweler's / needle files. A triangle one first came to mind but just have to see what makes sense and is in the set.

Harbor Freight has some inexpensive sets if you have a local store.

Maybe something with a Dremel too if have one, but it's easier to go too far or some other mishap with power tool.

 

[mac_1103]

Here's a crazy idea - maybe you could weld or solder a post onto the post?

 

[IslandLizard]

I gave it a half hearted try. but it really didn't want to catch a thread. I'll figure something out hopefully. Thanks for the advice too.

I found another thread here discussing a similar problem.
I linked to a post in there, that shows the specific thread sizes of the studs on a variety of corny keg models:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/stripped-corny-keg-post.276988/post-3682326
I think cleaning up the threads with a needle files is your easiest/best bet right now. As long as the post can thread straight onto the stud again, it's probably fixed.

BTW, looking at the pictures you took of the keg's top, it looks like a salvage item.

 

[The Original Slim]

At the price of used kegs nowadays, I would put throwing that one in the recycle bin and getting another one as a viable solution.

I've got some I'll let go for cheap, cheap, cheap if you're in north Texas.

I had thought of that as well.This is the hazards of buying used when you have very little experience. If I lived in Texas I'd be a knockin on your door.

I'd probably try to clean up the threads using an assortment of jeweler's / needle files. A triangle one first came to mind but just have to see what makes sense and is in the set.

Harbor Freight has some inexpensive sets if you have a local store.

Maybe something with a Dremel too if have one, but it's easier to go too far or some other mishap with power tool.

That is a great idea. I'll have to try to get over to the local HF and find some of those.

Here's a crazy idea - maybe you could weld or solder a post onto the post?

My fear is that repairing would cost more than just replacing the keg.

I found another thread here discussing a similar problem.
I'm linked to a post in there, that shows the specific thread sizes of the studs on a variety of corny keg models:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/stripped-corny-keg-post.276988/post-3682326
I think cleaning up the threads with a needle files is your easiest/best bet right now. As long as the post can thread straight onto the stud again, it's probably fixed.

BTW, looking at the pictures you took of the keg's top, it looks like a salvage item.

Yeah, Salvage. Chock up the loss to the cost of education.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yeah, Salvage. Chock up the loss to the cost of education.

But now you're educated, so you can make better plans and decisions.
And brew/serve better beer, which is why we're here.

 

[The Original Slim]

Getting educated is already becoming costly . I'm not really "slow" but I'll pick it up given adequate time.

 

[broot]

THEY MAKE FILES SPECIFICALLY FOR FIXING THREADS. GOOGLE TREAD FILE AND LOOK FOR THE ONE WITH THE PROPER PITCH.

 

[IslandLizard]

Also, have you checked the threads inside the post for any damage?

 

[mac_1103]

My fear is that repairing would cost more than just replacing the keg.

Well yeah, you need to be able to do the welding or soldering yourself. Or have a brother-in-law who can.

 

[easttex]

THEY MAKE FILES SPECIFICALLY FOR FIXING THREADS. GOOGLE TREAD FILE AND LOOK FOR THE ONE WITH THE PROPER PITCH.

Thread repair files. I own a couple and they're made for situations like this where you can't get a die to chase the threads.

Still and all, you can probably buy a used keg for this would cost to remedy if you look around a bit.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Plug the hole and use it for grain storage. Won’t be a total loss.

 

[whoaru99]

Thread repair files. I own a couple and they're made for situations like this where you can't get a die to chase the threads.

Still and all, you can probably buy a used keg for this would cost to remedy if you look around a bit.

Indeed.

That's why I mentioned trying jeweler's / needle files. They are inexpensive and have multiple uses. Everybody should have a set.

 

[easttex]

Plug the hole and use it for grain storage. Won’t be a total loss.

Or, plug the hole, get a carbonation lid, and use the remaining side for a liquid post.

 

[beren]

Or jb weld the post on with no poppet, put a spunding valve on, and use the other for liquid xfer for fermenting
They do make 2 part posts with an oring and nut on the inside, could cut/drill this post out and put a replacement on.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/body-connect-gas-ball-lock-post-bulkhead-assembly.html

 

[The Original Slim]

Or jb weld the post on with no poppet, put a spunding valve on, and use the other for liquid xfer for fermenting
They do make 2 part posts with an oring and nut on the inside, could cut/drill this post out and put a replacement on.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/body-connect-gas-ball-lock-post-bulkhead-assembly.html

That link to a bulkhead may well solve the whole problem. I assume it's a simple drill a hole and insert bulhead...fill or seal previous post and then proceed. If so, that isn't what I'd call an expensive fix.

Thank you beren.

 

[beren]

I would try to repair the threads first if possible, but yeah you could grind/drill it flat and use the bulkhead. It's just more things to clean and places for infections to hide.