Isolated Yeast (Tree House): How to Identify and Characterize?

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Sorry if you posted this before but can you post your recipe?
I’m using the Trinity Julius clone recipe referenced extensively in this thread. The two things I changed that appear to have made a big difference for me is to not airate the wort before or after pitching the yeast and don’t rehydrate the yeast. Works every time with zero clove or undesired flavors.

For reference, I live in MA and always have TH beers in my beer fridge. The three yeast combo is absolutely the path to the unique TH flavor.
 
Seeing as wb-06 is a diastaticus strain, how are you guys stopping it from munching your beer dry? I tried the referenced blend and ended up at 1.005 instead of the targeted 1.015

It also had plenty of Belgian flavors that I did not care for
 
Seeing as wb-06 is a diastaticus strain, how are you guys stopping it from munching your beer dry? I tried the referenced blend and ended up at 1.005 instead of the targeted 1.015

It also had plenty of Belgian flavors that I did not care for

It might have to do with the fermentation temp. Some flavors will probably be more pronounced with temps out of the recommended ranges. I do not recall what they should be though. This is just my guess why you may get stronger Belgian flavors, but not sure?
 
No one has really stated it, but I don't think most people on this thread are happy with the results from the yeast blend. I know I have not been. For me, T-58 is the overpowering yeast. Hard to get rid of that belgian character.

Robopp said he has been having great results by not aerating the wort beforehand. I believe there are others that report having decent results as well. I myself didn't have great results on the one attempt I did... my scale wasn't sensitive enough to weight out the correct ratios so it came out belgiany/hefe like, but not a bad beer just not TH. I also aerated.

Safe to say people are coming close ... it's going to take more trial and error and experimentation with temperatures and pitching rates and such to get the desired end product.
 
Has anyone transferred this beer to a keg with spunding valve to finish fermenting and carbonate? The fermentation schedule pushes the beer out to fully ferment then force carb.
 
I also never rehydrate. I just pitch a little more
I didn’t aerate, which I totally agree is unnecessary for dry yeast, and didn’t rehydrate either, but I also stuck with the dry yeast pitching suggestion. I didn’t add a little extra.
 
I didn’t aerate, which I totally agree is unnecessary for dry yeast, and didn’t rehydrate either, but I also stuck with the dry yeast pitching suggestion. I didn’t add a little extra.
Agreed. How is the beer developing in the keg over time? Any changes to the yeast flavor profile? Also how are you regulating temp and is it measured outside or inside the fermenter? Think you said 2.5gal batch right?
 
Agreed. How is the beer developing in the keg over time? Any changes to the yeast flavor profile? Also how are you regulating temp and is it measured outside or inside the fermenter? Think you said 2.5gal batch right?
Very estery (in a good way) at first then after a couple of weeks the hops start to come forward. The body of the beer is very full throughout and the haze hangs around for months. Temperature is regulated using a temp controlled fridge and the probe is affixed to the outside of the fermenter with insulation surrounding the probe. I’m brewing 2.5g batches. I bought a very accurate gram scale specifically for TH yeast pitching too.

My Sap clone is tasting phenomenal and almost identical to the real thing (I have a bunch of Sap cans from my last TH trip).
 
Very estery (in a good way) at first then after a couple of weeks the hops start to come forward. The body of the beer is very full throughout and the haze hangs around for months. Temperature is regulated using a temp controlled fridge and the probe is affixed to the outside of the fermenter with insulation surrounding the probe. I’m brewing 2.5g batches. I bought a very accurate gram scale specifically for TH yeast pitching too.

My Sap clone is tasting phenomenal and almost identical to the real thing (I have a bunch of Sap cans from my last TH trip).

I do 2.5 gallon batches as well. Can you post your yeast amounts?

Also, since you are only using a little bit of the wb-06 and t-58, how do you store it for a batch in the future?
 
Very estery (in a good way) at first then after a couple of weeks the hops start to come forward. The body of the beer is very full throughout and the haze hangs around for months. Temperature is regulated using a temp controlled fridge and the probe is affixed to the outside of the fermenter with insulation surrounding the probe. I’m brewing 2.5g batches. I bought a very accurate gram scale specifically for TH yeast pitching too.

My Sap clone is tasting phenomenal and almost identical to the real thing (I have a bunch of Sap cans from my last TH trip).
Very nice. When are you dry hopping? During, towards the end, or after fermentation?
 
S04/T58/WB06
8.28g/.45g/.27g

Vacuum seal the open packets in a food saver bag
Interesting. That seems like a lot of yeast for a 2.5 gal batch. The SafAle packets recommend 11.5g for 5.2-7.9 gallons of wort. How are you calculating your yeast amounts? Seems to me you are overpitching by like 3.5g of yeast total. But if it’s working, then overpitching may be the way to go. Hmm
 
Interesting. That seems like a lot of yeast for a 2.5 gal batch. The SafAle packets recommend 11.5g for 5.2-7.9 gallons of wort. How are you calculating your yeast amounts? Seems to me you are overpitching by like 3.5g of yeast total. But if it’s working, then overpitching may be the way to go. Hmm
Those amounts are for a 1.075 SG, 3 gallon beer. I always aim for 3 gallons into the fermenter and 2.5 gallons into the keg. I’m using mrmalty for my dry yeast pitching recommendations.
 
I brewed a batch last Thursday. 4gal of wort in the fermenter and the same yeast percentages as Trinity. Total yeast was 7g for 1.067 wort. Pitched at 74 and tried my best to swamp cooler the beer down the 64. My fridge had two kegs in it so I couldn’t use that to control temp. Dry hop and capped to spund on Sunday. Taking a gravity sample and I’m still getting faint clove/Belgian phenols. Cold crashed last night. I’m thinking the fermentation got a little too warm not being able to control temp perfectly.
 
1 to 2 days at ~45F. Usually, I brew on a Saturday or Sunday and keg on the following Saturday or Sunday. Most of the fermentation completes in the first two days.
So no phenols even in your gravity samples? I’m wondering if some of what I’m getting will condition out in the fridge.
 
Can someone please tell me a good place to jump into this thread. Read through page 23. This a very long and excellent thread. thanks
 
Can someone please tell me a good place to jump into this thread. Read through page 23. This a very long and excellent thread. thanks

Depends on what you’re looking for. I’d just keep reading, lots of varied discussions that are informative imo.
 
Another important factor is yeast nutrient. Which one are you using and how much?
Not using any nutrient. Don’t overthink what I’m doing. I skipped the rehydration because I was lazy and somewhat frustrated. I’m not using any extra steps other than what I’ve outlined. With that said, I’m happy to keep answering any additional questions you might have.
 
Not using any nutrient. Don’t overthink what I’m doing. I skipped the rehydration because I was lazy and somewhat frustrated. I’m not using any extra steps other than what I’ve outlined. With that said, I’m happy to keep answering any additional questions you might have.
Interesting. I’ll report back in a couple weeks on my batch.
 
I'd just like to say thanks to everyone in this thread for all your hard work. I haven't come close to reading all the posts and likely never will. But I brew a lot of NEIPAs and I'm always tweaking my process and trying different yeasts. I just brewed one with the S04/T58/WB06 blend and I'm very happy with it. Granted, I also deviated from my typical New England base grist. But really happy with the yeast blend and definitely will be using it again.
JCYDBMu.jpg
I just started going through this thread. I know this post was about a year ago but wanted to know if you rember how much of each yeast you used plus fermentation schedule
 
Was at Tree House last Friday right before closing. Only got to grab one pour and a few cans. It was mellow, waited for max 5 minutes for cans, same for pours.

Just cracked a Julius and Hurricane last night. I’ve been having a buddy send me a bunch of cans, mostly Curiosity stuff, off and on this winter/spring. The two beers I cracked last night were so much better than anything I’ve had in quite some time. For a while all their beers smelled exactly the same. Mouthfeel/texture/hop flavor were all still amazing but they had this weird bready yeast ester that smelled exactly like So4 during fermentation, or similar to that. It’s the only way I can describe it. These latest cans had none of that. Still had all the fruity yeast esters but none of the weird bread like smell.

Still can’t pick our distinct hops in the aroma but the saturation of Hop flavor is pretty nuts.

I almost didn’t go cause the beers had been so odd to me recently. Glad I did, wish I’d grabbed more.
 
https://www.treehousebrew.com/on-tap


"For this curious exploration into the art and science of hoppy beers, we blended two different yeast strains - a classically soft and fruity english ale strain, and our house yeast strain - in an attempt to take our well established flavor profiles to new heights of depth, intrigue, and individuality. "


...scratching my damn head
 
That just sounds to me like they added some LA111 to the mix... soft and fruity is the best way to describe that yeast.
 
That just sounds to me like they added some LA111 to the mix... soft and fruity is the best way to describe that yeast.

ahhh London Ale III .... never saw it abbreviated that way.
Interesting how they're saying "two" strains.


I've been using A38 Juice for my NEIPAs and soft and juicy is the best way to describe it. Its crazy. I find that Juice is little more orange estery than London III although they say they're the same strain.
 
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Was at Tree House last Friday right before closing. Only got to grab one pour and a few cans. It was mellow, waited for max 5 minutes for cans, same for pours.

Just cracked a Julius and Hurricane last night. I’ve been having a buddy send me a bunch of cans, mostly Curiosity stuff, off and on this winter/spring. The two beers I cracked last night were so much better than anything I’ve had in quite some time. For a while all their beers smelled exactly the same. Mouthfeel/texture/hop flavor were all still amazing but they had this weird bready yeast ester that smelled exactly like So4 during fermentation, or similar to that. It’s the only way I can describe it. These latest cans had none of that. Still had all the fruity yeast esters but none of the weird bread like smell.

Still can’t pick our distinct hops in the aroma but the saturation of Hop flavor is pretty nuts.

I almost didn’t go cause the beers had been so odd to me recently. Glad I did, wish I’d grabbed more.

I was there the same day and probably time.

The last couple times we have gone the lines have been minimal.

Had Curiosity 65 and that was nice. I love the mouthfeel Galaxy seems to contribute.

My wife got Spring and wish I’d gotten that instead of Eureka with Mosaic which seemed a bit dropped out.

Bought cans to bring to brother in laws.
Typhoon was good.
Had Lights On for the first time and that was a drinker.
Super Sap was my favorite of the bunch.....a great combination of old school hops and new school process.
My least favorite out of what I bought was Julius.

Philly cheesesteaks were awesome from the food truck. Good place to visit.

*Edit: Another observation is that most of their hoppy beers seem to have a similar spice/pepper note to them on the finish (mid palette). While I can distinguish the hops from each other...Galaxy in one beer...mosaic in another...etc....they all seem to end with that same note.

And they have seemed to dial in their new system and the beers being produced are cleaner and more balanced than they were there for a while.
 
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I recommend letting your TH beers sit for a couple weeks before consuming if they're super fresh. I live about 3 hours away and bought like $250 of beer on my trip (whoops). The first 2-3 beers I had about five to seven days after we got back. They all had that spicy, bready thing going on and all seemed kind of a different leaf of the same tree to me, so to speak.

About 10-14 days in they started to take on lives of their own. I know they say drink fresh, but they seem to be packaging VERY fresh, so just a bit of time in the cans actually makes them better in my opinion. They were still great 4-6 weeks out.

+1 on the Super Sap, or even regular sap. I agree it's like a marriage of oldschool and newschool IPA.
 
I recommend letting your TH beers sit for a couple weeks before consuming if they're super fresh. I live about 3 hours away and bought like $250 of beer on my trip (whoops). The first 2-3 beers I had about five to seven days after we got back. They all had that spicy, bready thing going on and all seemed kind of a different leaf of the same tree to me, so to speak.

About 10-14 days in they started to take on lives of their own. I know they say drink fresh, but they seem to be packaging VERY fresh, so just a bit of time in the cans actually makes them better in my opinion. They were still great 4-6 weeks out.

+1 on the Super Sap, or even regular sap. I agree it's like a marriage of oldschool and newschool IPA.

What would account for that spice/pepper note in the draft beer? Serving too early?

I think that’s part of Nate’s house character for his hoppy beers...it’s intended.

My observation of that character isn’t meant as a negative.
 
Interesting note is at least with the non core beers they don’t put it on tap same day as canning. It usually takes at least a week to hit the tap lines. Curiosity 70 and East Hill forminstance haven’t hit the taps yet. Wonder when they will.
 
I find the beers on tap taste a bit different, more bright. The carbonation seems different than the cans too. I was fortunate enough to get a pint of Juice machine a few weeks ago and it almost seemed to be on nitrogen it was that silky smooth. I haven’t tried the can, so, nothing to compare it to, but for others I have noticed the tap beer was a tad better. Also, I have had Julius aged for 4-5 months and still tastes great, a little less pop than a fresh can but still a great beer even for that old.
 
It’s pretty common practice for places with long runs to use a blend of Co2 and nitrogen to push beer for serving. Wouldn’t surprise me if at Treehouse (and Hill Farmstead) thy they up the percentage of nitrogen. I’m not 100% sure how that all works. Maybe someone who owns an establishment that uses a blend could chime in. You can buy “beer gas” which is a pre established blend of use an external blending device to change percentages.

Was at Hill the day before Treehouse and I would say the same thing goes for them. The beers on tap have a different carbonation than that same beer in a can.
 
I have a nitro setup for my stouts with the beergas mix, might be too much nitrogen for an IPA but worth trying. I think it’s 75/25 mix
 
If they don't have the distances exact, they could definitely have a difference in carbonation b/w the cans and draft lines. Cans you can nail it pretty close I'd think. If you buy beer gas, you only have a few options I think, unless you were willing to buy a large amount maybe? If you can only get a blend that has a little less than the amount of CO2 that would be ideal to get the right pressure to push the beer the given distance, you would have the result of slightly lower carbonation (and vice versa for a blend with a little more CO2 that you really need.)

It’s pretty common practice for places with long runs to use a blend of Co2 and nitrogen to push beer for serving. Wouldn’t surprise me if at Treehouse (and Hill Farmstead) thy they up the percentage of nitrogen. I’m not 100% sure how that all works. Maybe someone who owns an establishment that uses a blend could chime in. You can buy “beer gas” which is a pre established blend of use an external blending device to change percentages.

Was at Hill the day before Treehouse and I would say the same thing goes for them. The beers on tap have a different carbonation than that same beer in a can.
 
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