Is this a good price?

[trainfever]

I know of someone whos is selling a kegging outfit. It includes a 5 lb co2 bottle, the regulator and 2 cornie kegs, plus all neccessary tubing. He said he used to homebrew but is now out of it and that everything worked good but the O rings might need replacing. He is asking 120 for it all.

 

[the_bird]

Meh...

2 Cornies = $20x2 = $40
5lb tank = $60
Regulator = $20 - $40
Tubing = $0 (replace it)

Offer him $100 and see if he bites; it's an OK deal, not a great one.

 

[kinison_fan]

I saw that on CL and posted a link in the classified section.
I think it is a decent deal when you consider the costs.
the_bird's price examples are a little low, more like an example of a good deal (and doesn't include shipping).

Call or check Keystone's website, their ONE keg set up is at least $200

 

[srm775]

Yeah, I'd say it's a pretty decent deal ... I think more accurate prices are:

5lbs CO2 = $70-$80
Regulator = $35 -$45
Cornies = $28-$35 each
Disconnects = $6-$7 each
Tubing = irrelevant

Northernbrewers kit for one used keg is $114 and DOESN'T include the CO2. Kegconnection has a basic one used keg kit listed at $160.

Really, you're looking at a cost of $185 on the low end of the estimate. I would still offer him a little lower just incase (maybe $110).

But, it's definitely worth the $120

 

[cubbies]

It is a decent deal. Definitely not the deal of the century, but cheaper than retail. You are looking at about $30 a keg (after shipping), you could probably get a tank on Ebay for $50, a regulator on Ebay for $30, disconnects $5 a piece (x4), so you are looking at approximately $160 retail, so $120 is not bad. However, I would definitely offer him a cool $100 and see what he says.

 

[abracadabra]

Find out what the certification date on the CO2 tank is. If it's expired or about to expire then it's not a good deal at all.

 

[abracadabra]

Here you go check out these guy's I did business with them and I was happy.

http://www.homebrewing.org/Homebrew-Kegging-System_p_24-69.html

Bare bone system with 1 cornie $89

single handle cornies $15 double handle cornies $25

IMHO a dual gauge is a waste of money. Of course I didn't know that until after I bought one.

 

[TheJadedDog]

Find out what the certification date on the CO2 tank is. If it's expired or about to expire then it's not a good deal at all.

This was my thought exactly. If the tank is good for a while and everything else is in good condition it sounds like a reasonable deal. If not, skip it.

 

[modenacart]

I personally don't like the idea of owning the CO2 tank. I bought into the local pool for 40 dollars, which is cheaper than I could find a tank for, and they take care of all the upkeep. I just pay about 11 dollars to swap for a new tank. I could even have to tanks if I wanted to buy in for another one.

 

[gnef]

dual gauge regulators are worth it. all of my regulators are dual gauge. the reason is for leaks. i have many tanks, and use co2 in different areas, so if i want to test a system, i need each system to have dual gauges.

if you don't have dual gauges, you could run out of an entire tank before you realize there is a leak. that is an expensive lesson to learn multiple times compared to the cost of the high pressure gauge.

 

[abracadabra]

dual gauge regulators are worth it. all of my regulators are dual gauge. the reason is for leaks. i have many tanks, and use co2 in different areas, so if i want to test a system, i need each system to have dual gauges.

if you don't have dual gauges, you could run out of an entire tank before you realize there is a leak. that is an expensive lesson to learn multiple times compared to the cost of the high pressure gauge.

In my experience the amount of pressure indicated on the gauge for the CO2 tank stayed at approx 500 PSI until the tank was virtually empty then dropped to 0 in a matter of seconds. So I got no indication of how much CO2 was left in the tank.
Many other posts I've read by others on the forum said they experienced the same.

Here's just one recent post.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=46741


A more accurate gauge is to weight the tank.

The best way to test for leaks is with a solution of star-san or soapy water. Brush it around all connectors, posts, lid, ect and look for bubbles that grow and burst. It's certainly a lot cheaper that watching for your pressure to drop.

 

[gnef]

i know the high pressure gauge is worthless as far as letting you know how much is left in the tank.

in my mind though, it is the only way of identifying a slow persistent leak. star san can't find small leaks, at least in my experience. i always use the high pressure gauge to let me know if i have a leak or not, then i use different methods to find, isolate, and fix the leak. without the high pressure gauge, it will take a long time to find your leak, and you will most likely have gone through an entire tank of gas.

 

[RadicalEd]

In my experience the amount of pressure indicated on the gauge for the CO2 tank stayed at approx 500 PSI until the tank was virtually empty then dropped to 0 in a matter of seconds. So I got no indication of how much CO2 was left in the tank.
Many other posts I've read by others on the forum said they experienced the same.

Here's just one recent post.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=46741


A more accurate gauge is to weight the tank.

The best way to test for leaks is with a solution of star-san or soapy water. Brush it around all connectors, posts, lid, ect and look for bubbles that grow and burst. It's certainly a lot cheaper that watching for your pressure to drop.

All very true, but you can close the valve on your tank to isolate the regulator from it. If your pressure drops on the high side considerably, then you have a leak . It's harder to see on a secondary-side gauge, as we usually keep them at under 10 PSI, if you have a gauge that reads higher than 60 PSI.

 

[abracadabra]

All very true, but you can close the valve on your tank to isolate the regulator from it. If your pressure drops on the high side considerably, then you have a leak . It's harder to see on a secondary-side gauge, as we usually keep them at under 10 PSI, if you have a gauge that reads higher than 60 PSI.

That's very interesting. Never thought about that. I learn something new everyday.