Is quick disconnect MFL better or personal preference

[TUCK]

I am purchasing a keg from ebay and they also sell the liquid out and gass in quick disconnects (wich I know I need) but I dont know which one to purchase.

Is one better than the other?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Sell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

OR

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Sell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

I need some input, please excuse all my green questions but I feel like a sponge wanting to soak as much info as possible.

Thanks again

 

[Brewsmith]

The barbed ones are the simplest to use. Just push on the tubing and fasten with a hose clamp. Use the threaded ones if you have some other fittings you need to attach. I have barbed ones on my liquid out but threaded ones on the gas in. I use some push connect fittings for all of my gas connections so I can easily remove them when not in use.

 

[Brewsmith]

If it helps, check out the pics of my kegerator setup.

My CO2 manifold with push connect fittings:
https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=900&c=1&userid=1766

Kegs connected to CO2:
https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=899&c=1&userid=1766

Line connected to kegs with barbed fittings:
https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=891&c=1&userid=1766

 

[TUCK]

The barbed ones are the simplest to use. Just push on the tubing and fasten with a hose clamp. Use the threaded ones if you have some other fittings you need to attach. I have barbed ones on my liquid out but threaded ones on the gas in. I use some push connect fittings for all of my gas connections so I can easily remove them when not in use.

Wow, thakns alot!

I like the idea of using the threaded for the gas in.

I think I am going to set it up exactly like yours, once again thanks

 

[Brewsmith]

For the ultimate kegerator check this out:
http://homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=2009

I got the fittings from tnlandsailor. He has a website: www.ihomebrewsolutions.com

Tnlandsailor sums up everything in a pdf file here:
The Great Fridge Project

 

[TUCK]

For the ultimate kegerator check this out:
http://homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=2009

I got the fittings from tnlandsailor. He has a website: www.ihomebrewsolutions.com

Tnlandsailor sums up everything in a pdf file here:
The Great Fridge Project

Funny you mentioned this because I am using this as my main source to setup my fridge (throw out all the food a stock the beer, mmmmmm) kegarator, this guy is great for putting this out.

And the best part about it, is that my bro works at McMaster Carr and can get the parts for the manifold half off.

On the manifold;
I can pretty much add and subtract how many kegs I can hook up to the manifold at anytime right, the plugs just screw in and out if needed right?

 

[Brewsmith]

Correct. You can get the main part of the manifold in several different sizes. Tnlandsailor had to use two pieces because the largest one they make would only allow up to 5 valves (it has 11 threaded holes across the front)

For mine, I got the one with 7 and plugged the three inbetween, so I can (and do) have 4 kegs on tap. Each has a shut-off valve as well as a main shut-off outside the fridge. When one keg goes dry, that one gets shut off and the line disconnected, and all the others run as normal.
The beauty of the manifold is that if I ever need to go more kegs, I can expand it however I want. I just need a bigger fridge first...

 

[Dude]

Where has Dennis been lately? He never posts here anymore.

 

[gnef]

how did you guys put in check valves in your PC setups? or did you?

and i would always recommend flared over barbed, unless you know for sure you will be using only one type of keg. i have a good mix of ball and pin, and i knew that i would when i first started kegging, because i buy whatever i can for a good deal, and using flared connections allowed me this flexibility.

the push connects are very nice though, very simple design, i'd just be a bit worried about the check valves. how difficult would it be to add inline check valve to that rigid tubing?

 

[TUCK]

how did you guys put in check valves in your PC setups? or did you?

and i would always recommend flared over barbed, unless you know for sure you will be using only one type of keg. i have a good mix of ball and pin, and i knew that i would when i first started kegging, because i buy whatever i can for a good deal, and using flared connections allowed me this flexibility.

the push connects are very nice though, very simple design, i'd just be a bit worried about the check valves. how difficult would it be to add inline check valve to that rigid tubing?

I think I am going to stick with the ball lock because I can get them for $16-cleaned and gas filled when purchased to confirm a strong seal.

 

[gnef]

nice. where did you find such a good deal?

but still, with the prices of steel continuing to rise, so will the cost of kegs. the way i see it, you never know what kinds of deals you will be able to find.

also, using flared connectors instead of barbed make it easier to clean the lines and sanitize.

 

[TUCK]

nice. where did you find such a good deal?

but still, with the prices of steel continuing to rise, so will the cost of kegs. the way i see it, you never know what kinds of deals you will be able to find.

also, using flared connectors instead of barbed make it easier to clean the lines and sanitize.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ball-Lock-Kegs-...yZ146227QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

[gnef]

i think i've seen that seller before. check on shipping though, it can be significant.

other than that, go for it!

the more kegs you have, the better. at least that's the way i see it.

 

[TUCK]

i think i've seen that seller before. check on shipping though, it can be significant.

other than that, go for it!

the more kegs you have, the better. at least that's the way i see it.

Yeah shipping was 35 for 4 They are in good shape but I replaced all seals and one needs a new ball lock I believe.

Since my LHBS sales them for 30 I am just going to get them from him. Once the shipping is added it is pretty much the same and I don't have to wait.

I just wish I could find some 3.5's for less than a 100 jeez