phoenixs4r
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Brewing this recipe this weekend, first 10 gallon batch. If you don't mind me asking, what is your pre boil, and mash efficiency?
Brewing this recipe this weekend, first 10 gallon batch. If you don't mind me asking, what is your pre boil, and mash efficiency?
Saccharomyces said:Just one extra pound I would roll with it, it won't make much of a difference.
pstrohs said:I brewed this beer per the posted recipe using American Ale II (OG 1.055 FG 1.012) and in the primary for 23 days. I just tried this beer after only 2 days on the gas and all I can say is "WOW". This is incredible. I am so glad that I brewed 10 gallons of it. Great beer OP.
One dilemma and question. My spare was real slow and I'm not sure why. I increased my mash water to 1.25 qts per lb grain due to the fact that I brew outdoors and it was cold! Also my first tub of spare water may have been a little too hot. Again trying to keep everything from cooling down too quick. Maybe add rice hulls next time?
My house Irish Red ale. It is best after 4 months of aging, so I brew 10 gallon batches and re-brew when the first keg kicks. The key to this style is malt forward but with a roasty, dry finish. Hop flavor is barely noticeable and there is no hop aroma. If you can lager, even better, use a clean lager yeast (eg. WLP840, WLP833). I only do ales though so I pitch Wyeast 1272, and ferment on the low end of the range to suppress ester production. Wyeast 1272 American Ale II is a nice, clean ale yeast that accentuates malt character. WLP051 is an exact sub for this yeast (it is the Anchor Liberty strain). If you use dry yeast, Nottingham or US-05 will work fine for this style, but if using the dry I recommend increasing the mash temp to 152*F.
This style should be crystal clear in the glass and shine ruby red when held up to a light. If you bottle condition, I recommend a two week secondary followed by pitching some English yeast like a half package of S-04 in the bottling bucket so the beer finishes nice and clear in the bottle.
Malt Bill for 10 gallons:
12# Maris Otter (70%)
4# Vienna (24%)
12oz British Roasted Barley 500L (4%)
6oz Crystal 120L (2%)
Mash 150*F for 75 min.
Hop Bill for 10 gallons:
2oz 4.5% AA Fuggles (75 min)
1oz 5.0% AA Goldings (15 min)
Extract Version (for 5 gal):
4# Light DME
2# Munich LME
5oz Roasted Barley, steeped 20 min @155*F
2.5oz C120L, steeped 20 min @155*F
Has anyone tried this using all Goldings? I don't have any fuggles, and need to use up this EKG i have laying around.
Brewed a 5 gallon batch today using us 2 row. Hopefully its just as good
You ll have to let us know how it compares...im sure it will be great but i wonder what the differences will be...
Kegged the us 2row version of it on Sunday. Get 3 kegs to kill then on to that one.
In my experience 1272 is a slow starter but once it gets going it is ferocious. Don't be surprised if it blows off.
H'm. I just experienced this with WY1332 (the NW Ale yeast) on a Two Brothers Cane & Ebel clone. Pitched Monday, had nice, steady airlock action Tuesday - Friday, foamed out and plugged up the airlock on Saturday, found it with the bucket lid domed up. I didn't know bucket lids could do that.
At least you caught it in time. Most folks learn of their problem when NORAD calls them to inform them they are tracking their lid as a new piece of space junk.
I've a batch on tap right now using 2-row. Let me know what you think about yours.
How's yours? We just tapped the keg using cheap US 2 row and the color is completely different then the original batch we did using the original recipe for marris otter (Plus making 5 gallons instead of 10). I wish I could blame it on the batch size difference but I don't think that's it.
The color is all wrong and the taste just isn't as refreshing. It's making me contemplate buying the expensive base grain instead of the $36/sack of 2 row I have been using! lol.
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