Inkbird STC-1000 help!

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TheMarkWhite

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I have a Danby 4.4 freezerless fridge and want to put my STC -1000 controller in place of the stock thermostat. I found many posts with the exact same wiring diagram that’s in my fridge.

I took the black wires and ran them to terms 1 & 7. Took the red wire and ran it to term 8. Spliced the white wire from the light and ran it to term 2. nothing happens. No light and STC won’t turn on.

I bought the controller sometime ago and just got around to building my kegerator. Is my therm dead? Any ideas? Please help!
 

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I have a Danby 4.4 freezerless fridge and want to put my STC -1000 controller in place of the stock thermostat. I found many posts with the exact same wiring diagram that’s in my fridge.

I took the black wires and ran them to terms 1 & 7. Took the red wire and ran it to term 8. Spliced the white wire from the light and ran it to term 2. nothing happens. No light and STC won’t turn on.

I bought the controller sometime ago and just got around to building my kegerator. Is my therm dead? Any ideas? Please help!
The controller you have is only rated for 12VDC power. Your freezer is 120VAC. You will need a 12VDC power supply for the STC-1000 on terminals 1&2. And you can leave the other wires on 7&8. Unfortunately you may have already let the smoke out of the controller.
 
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Be careful when looking at the wiring diagram on that unit. They are showing it wired by switching the neutral. I would make sure the hot wire is switched off instead of the neutral wire.
 
Thanks for the heads up. How do you suggest I wire it exactly?

I was following the diagrams and steps in these threads.

The 2 black wires go to terminal 1 & 7
The red wire goes to terminal 8
Splice off the white wire from the light to go to terminal 2

The diagram in the pic on amazon looks identical to the diagrams of the therms from both threads (2nd and 3rd pic). Or am I missing something?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/danby-dar044a6bsldb-kegerator-cabinet-build.573149/


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/stc-1000-wiring-for-danby-mini-fridge.574104/
 

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the hot and cold symbols in the diagram.... push them around the diagram past the switch so the L or hot wire is being switched off. If you look now the L or hot wire is always hot and always connected to the appliance. That will work but is not good practice.
 
So are you saying the wiring should be the following?

Black wires to terms 1 & 8
Red to term 7
White to spliced to term

Or are you saying to switch the spliced white wire with one of the blacks?
 
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move cooling to pin 7, move heating to pin 5. Then both of the L (line or hot wire) are running to the switch.
 
I am also sorry I can't better describe the idea I am trying to convey. I'm going to try to markup the diagram and see if I can post it. I have not posted a pic before so we'll see how it goes.
 
OK I hope I did this right. If wired like I have drawn the hot wire will be switched.
 

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Thanks. So you’re saying my 2 black wires go to terminals 1,6 & 8, i need to splice my white wire to go to terminal 5 & 7, and 2. Where does my red wire go?!
 
I'm not sure how to explain it any better than the drawing i made. I'm not sure what a red wire is. coming out of the 120VAC wall socket you have black (hot) white (neutral), and green (ground) there are no red wires. The white (neutral) wire goes to pin 2 only, the other white connections are on your fridge or heater...
 
I’m connecting this to the existing wiring inside my fridge that the original thermostat was connected to. The pictures are shown in my first post.
 
The Inkbird wiring diagram shows the relays are switching the neutral side of the AC.
This is a poor practice and in some jurisdictions illegal to boot as it leaves hot AC on the load just waiting for someone to ground it.
Switching the hot side is always preferable if not mandatory - which in this particular application is handier anyway as you're substituting the ITC-1000 for the oem thermostat switch which is on the hot side.

Take the married black wires off the thermostat and connect them to pins 1 and 7 of the ITC-1000.
Take the red wire off the thermostat and connect it to pin 8.
Tap into the white AC neutral wire and connect it to pin 2 of the ITC-1000.
Done.

itc1000_cool_only.jpg


Cheers!
 
Okay. I got the new therm today. Plugged it in like the above and the display turned on. I set the compressor delay to 0 however the fridge hasn’t turned on! No light or anything. This is the fridge i connected it to. Same wiring layout as all the pictures i attached. Any thoughts?

Black worries go to term 1&7
Red wire to term 8
Spliced white wire from light to term 2


Danby DAR044A4BDD-3 Compact All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2MB4AC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Does the controller indicate the Cool relay should be active? There's an indicator for that.
If that's not lit then the compressor isn't going to turn on...

Cheers!
 
One of the black wires on the original therm was not hot and was only for the door light. I ran a jumper between terms 1 & 7 and it’s working now. Thank you everyone for their help.
 
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