Induction Vs Element... Some Advice?

[binaryc0de]

Sorry, if I’m posting something that has been widely discussed in another thread. I’m looking at getting a new pot and possibly going induction and seeking some advice. Over-all I want to decrease brew-day pre and post clean up time.

Back story…
I’ve been using a 15G AL pot with a 5500W element installed. I’ve used it for a year and have been extremely happy with ramp times and overall usage of it. It is a bit of over-kill since I mainly brew 5 gal batches but I love the time savings. Only a few issues and all of them are around ease of cleaning and sanitation…
1) I had to use silicone to get the weldless fittings to not leak 100% and it was a real PITA too (meaning I can’t easily take it out for cleaning). The hole was not cut exactly perfectly and thus the issues.
2) I get some thick black burned on gunk on the element after every brew and it takes forever to get off (I actually can’t get it all off due to the folding of the element). Since the pot is AL and because of #1 I’m limited in cleaning products I can use to tackle the issue (hints the want for a new pot).
3) The element solution I bought and installed a year ago has a cord permanently attached extending off the back of the pot. This makes it very hard to maneuver for cleaning. I know this is something easily fixable but again I’d have to disassemble the element from the pot and deal with the correcting leaking issues again (I’d rather buy something else).

Directions I’ve thought about…
I’ve got a bonus coming up and I’m not opposed to spending a little $.
1) Like the look of the new Blichmann boil coils (have wondered if they would be easier to clean than a typical element). However, I don’t like the design of the G2 pots with the new linear flow valve.
2) I’ve thought about going the route of a stainless kettle with welded bulkheads and use a tri-clamp adapter with the element I have (or a new one).
3) Induction… Take the element cleaning out of the picture entirely and go with another efficient electric setup.

So… Thoughts about induction? The size I’d probably want seeing as I’m used to power of a 5500W element? Any cons to induction that I need to be aware of as opposed to an immerged element?

 

[Weezy]

Induction is always my recommendation, if the power is sufficient for your needs, and it certainly is for your 5 gallon batches.

Only cons for induction is the need for 220V for the higher wattage versions. People have rigged them to run off electric dryer outlets... And you'll need a new pot.

You could go with the often recommended Avantco 3500W (I have one).

But if you're interested in precise temp control, I'd recommend a true manual induction cooker from adcraft:
http://www.jesrestaurantequipment.c...1052240.html?gclid=CJujovKdjtQCFdJMDQodje8I_g

With a manual control cooker, you could eventually (or immediately, if you have the cash) rig up an external temperature controller to it (custom PID with relay to handle the wattage and voltage) and dial in, with an added recirculation pump, precise temps.

 

[AF1HomeBrew]

I switched to induction 3 years ago and love it. You'll need to use a controller to maintain temps - if you are using for mashtun or hot liq tank. If you are doing 5 gal batches, I would recommend getting a 10 gal kettle because the induction hot plates will be smaller than your kettle and anything larger than that might cause an issue for you if you are using to boil.

I use 20 gal kettles from Bru-Gear & Spike (I use propane for my 30 gal Spike kettle). Since I am only using them for mashtun and hot liqour tank and have them hooked up to a BCS-460 controller I am able to use larger kettles.

 

[binaryc0de]

yeah I currently have a controller setup for temp control with a 220 setup. I'm sure that would probably work just fine with any induction cooktop. The only issue I had wondered about was ramp times as compared to my 5500W element. I typically have a high boil off rate. I usually start with 8-8.5 gals down to 5.5-6 gals over course of a 90 min boil.

 

[AF1HomeBrew]

220 setup would probably be comparable.

 

[pricelessbrewing]

For 15 gal, the 3500w burners probably the only suitable candidates. If necessary you can always suppliment with an additional electric element.

 

[binaryc0de]

So far then what I'm thinking is best of both and maybe get a custom Spike kettle that has a triclamp port for an element. An additional benefit being the kettle is induction compatible. I can seal the element port when only using the induction.

 

[wilserbrewer]

With the correct solder and flux I believe you could solder a tri clamp fitting into your aluminum kettle, replace the element if you want to and your mentioned issues are solved.

Just an idea, but it sounds like you want all new gear....

 

[augiedoggy]

Or you can just add a 1.5" weldless TC fitting like the one from brewhardware.That's what I did myself and it's a nicely built weldless fitting that seals better than most due to the recessed print design. You want to get an ULWD element because from the black buildup comment it sounds like you have some scorching going on..

But if your going induction then you'll need a new kettle anyway.

 

[z-bob]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

I'm using one with a 1650W element as a supplemental heater and it makes all the difference in the world.

 

[binaryc0de]

Yeah I agree there's probably some scorching going on. Since using the element I get darker than expected wort too. However, from other threads I have read, there have been complaints of the same type of caked on funk on the element after brew. There is also beer stone formation on my kettle in addition to the element that I often find hard to remove.

Before I learned about my bonus this month I had thought about seeing about soldering a TC fitting on to my Kettle. However, This is a cheap very used kettle that I got at a yard sale years ago and adapted it to use. I've never had what I'd call a nice boil kettle. So I've determined that I do want one but I want to be as versatile as possible for other brewing techniques I want to use in the future.

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

I've brewed a number of 5 gallon batches on induction and electric heating element. Out of the two paths I recommend going with a Spike kettle, 1.5" TC fitting, for the brewhardware heating element, mentioned earlier.

 

[centralpabrewer]

I switched to induction a few months ago. I purchased 2 of the Avantco 3500W induction plates and 2 10gal kettles. My brew day is so nice...i've started to enjoy brewing again. Wish i would have switch to induction years ago.

 

[oujens]

I switched to induction a few months ago. I purchased 2 of the Avantco 3500W induction plates and 2 10gal kettles. My brew day is so nice...i've started to enjoy brewing again. Wish i would have switch to induction years ago.

Any chance you are recirculating your mash and managing mash temps with it? I've got an outlet in the garage screaming for an avantco. Just curious if I might want two or use one for boiling and figure something else out for the mash.

 

[Weezy]

Any chance you are recirculating your mash and managing mash temps with it? I've got an outlet in the garage screaming for an avantco. Just curious if I might want two or use one for boiling and figure something else out for the mash.

I used dual induction with one 1800w for mash and 3500w for boil. Cross recirculate for brutus 20 style sparge. Loved it until my 1800w died. But most induction dont support precise temp control. You end up having to set it at min wattage and watch thermometer. For true temp control, see my first post with the true manual induction that will allow for external temp control.

Here's my dual setup:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=598424

 

[centralpabrewer]

I use 1 for the mash. I recirculate the entire mash and I have found that since I have insulated my mash tun, the temps only drop maybe 2 degrees over the mash time. A few minutes with the induction plate at 1200 or 1500w bumps it back up.

The other one I use for the boil