Jeepinctbrewer
Well-Known Member
better bottles work awesome, never had any issues with mine. i use a milk crate to move them around
That's BS, no chilling doesn't have negative effects in regards to cold break, or pretty much anything. The only real difference is that hop utilization is different due to longer chilling. Not bad different, just different.
Letting your beer cool at its own slow ass rate is a recipe for subpar beer, unless that's your aim to recreate some sort of medieval/egyptian no-chill brew.
That's a pretty strong claim, considering a sizeable number of people swear by that process. I find it hard to believe anyone would use the method if it produced "subpar" beer.
That's a pretty strong claim, considering a sizeable number of people swear by that process. I find it hard to believe anyone would use the method if it produced "subpar" beer.
fc36 said:Not worth my time to continue arguing against those who swear by their own slow and antiquated process. An IC chiller is one of the easiest pieces of brewing eqpt to make and only costs about $40. You guys can continue to no-chill and I'll continue getting great cold break and clearer tastier beer. Besides, this thread is about better bottles, not the long and ever-contested chill vs. no-chill debate.
You're trolling my friend.
If you read the initial posts you would see that's its not about better bottles. It's about the fact I destroyed my carboy pouring hot wort into it.
If you have strong opinions about no chilling vs chilling, that's fine and dandy. Me personally, I wouldn't stake claims or look for an argument over a subject where I haven't tried both results. Have you no chilled? If not how do you know about it being "subpar"? Word of mouth? Personally I couldn't base my argument off something I've never tried.
However I did buy a counterflow chiller and will be putting to use so that I can test this argument myself.
Oxidation and sulfides are just two of the things that occur in a slowly cooling vessel of wort. Not to mention the increased chance of infection due to airborne bacteria and the length of time it takes you to cool. You should read a little about cold break. It's not just proteins that you're worried about. Cold break will help to reduce chill haze, but flavor is most definitely affected by oxidation and dimethyl sulfide.
Commercial breweries take upwards of 40 minutes to chill their wort, but remember that their boil kettles are usually closed systems with very little oxygen present in the head space of the vessel. Also, they use a plate heat exchanger and no matter how big your plate heat exchanger, it still takes time to chill large volumes of 15-30 bbls or more.
Letting your beer cool at its own slow ass rate is a recipe for subpar beer, unless that's your aim to recreate some sort of medieval/egyptian no-chill brew.
No troll. If you read my earlier posts in this thread, I also broke a carboy and to disastrous results. I ended up with 19 stitches. I have done no chill. In fact, my first few batches were no-chill and I noticed an immediate flavor and clarity difference once I built my IC chiller. It wasn't like night and day, but it was certainly noticeable and many of my friends commented that the beer was better without my prompting. I'm a chemical engineer and I don't just say things to say them. I value the scientific method and you can't argue with results. Just sayin'.
Which is, I assume, why you posted your comment? Don't be surprised when you make a sweeping comment and get a (well, what was a) brief response to it.("Subpar" is a very strong statement---it means below average, not just be marginally worse, so you are saying you cannot make even average beer by that method.Not worth my time to continue arguing against those who swear by their own slow and antiquated process.
Just some information for people putting boiling hot wort directly into buckets..
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17707454
A nice little quote from the abstract:
"The rate of antimony (Sb) release could be fit by a power function model (Sb(t)=Sb 0 x[Time, h]k; k=8.7 x 10(-6)x[Temperature ( degrees C)](2.55); Sb 0 is the initial antimony concentration). For exposure temperatures of 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, and 85 degrees C, the exposure durations necessary to exceed the 6 ppb MCL are 176, 38, 12, 4.7, 2.3, and 1.3 days, respectively."
I would dare to call beer with high Antimony levels subpar. Either you can risk slow poisoning or you can just get a wort chiller guys. If you want to be a science project, be my guest, but keep your beers to yourself, please.
Google no chilling.
They make special containers for it......
Edit: your link also says PET.
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