ice-melt cable wrapped around a mash tun?

[gkeusch]

Hey gang,

would it be possible to buy one of those ice-melt cables that you use on your roof eave to prevent ice build-up, put it on a rheostat, wrap it around the outside of a stainless-steel pot, set it in an insulated box and use it for temperature controlled mashing?

I'm growing weary of the picnic cooler approach - such a pain to hit and maintain temps, no good way to raise temp at mashout, etc.

If not a ice-melt cable, something else that might work?

 

[ajm163]

I'm not sure how hot those get???? I have heard people talk about Silicone heating mats used for industrial fluid heating but have yet to find anyone who has tried it

 

[bagpiperjosh]

Hey gang,

would it be possible to buy one of those ice-melt cables that you use on your roof eave to prevent ice build-up, put it on a rheostat, wrap it around the outside of a stainless-steel pot, set it in an insulated box and use it for temperature controlled mashing?

I'm growing weary of the picnic cooler approach - such a pain to hit and maintain temps, no good way to raise temp at mashout, etc.

If not a ice-melt cable, something else that might work?

I was also wondering about something like that, except i was thinking about using the heat tape for water pipes, but there isn't anywhere that says how hot they get

 

[kgalle]

I was also wondering about something like that, except i was thinking about using the heat tape for water pipes, but there isn't anywhere that says how hot they get

Usually 150F max. I recommend that you review the Tyco/Thermal controls website.

http://www.tycothermal.com/usa/english/specialty_heating/

They have some pretty serious temperature equipment.

 

[bagpiperjosh]

Usually 150F max. I recommend that you review the Tyco/Thermal controls website.

http://www.tycothermal.com/usa/english/specialty_heating/

They have some pretty serious temperature equipment.

I was thinking more alon the lines of this

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100196820/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=PIPE HEAT&storeId=10051

 

[bagpiperjosh]

I was thinking more alon the lines of this

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100196820/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=PIPE HEAT&storeId=10051

oh and I meant to use those for ferm temps, not mash temps

 

[ajm163]

the Tyco stuff seems more promising but i cant find it for sale anywhere which makes me think it is pretty pricy.... these seem like they could do the job and fairly affordable

http://www.omega.com/Heaters/pdf/SRMU_HEATER.pdf

the 12inch round could put out ~1.2KW and you could put 2 or 3 of them on a pot

 

[goybar]

I use one of these, mainly because I already had it.

http://www.gardenhouse.com/seedling.asp

-Chris

 

[ajm163]

I use one of these, mainly because I already had it.

http://www.gardenhouse.com/seedling.asp

-Chris

Are you using that for Ferm temp control.... i think the OP was talking about something for mashing

 

[wrench]

I was also thinking of re-purposing a pipe heater cable to control fermentation. However, the one I already have comes with a built-in thermostat. It turns on at 38F and turns off at 45F. I haven't done the research yet to know if I can cut out the thermostat and safely splice a new plug onto it. (It would plug into a temp controller anyway).

Long post short... just make sure that whatever you buy either doesn't have hard wired temp control, or that the OEM settings fit your needs.

 

[goybar]

Yes for fermentation temp. ctrl.

Clearly I can't multitask while at work.

 

[gkeusch]

Yes, the OP (me) I was talking about mash temps. would need to go up to 170F or so.
So that probably wouldn't work - still, when someone states they only go up to 150F, what is that based on - the one I have has no thermostat, so, and I know I am probably breaking the laws of conservation of energy, if the cable is wrapped around the pot and then that is wrapped with insulation to create a "closed" thermal environment, and you keep putting heat energy into the system wouldn't the temperature continue to climb?

 

[Bobby_M]

Right. They don't have a max temp they can put out, but the material that wraps the resistive wire is sometimes only rated for the typical temps needed for ice melting. You'd probably want to go with the silicone jacketed stuff just to be sure. There is no reason why wrapping, and further insulating, a MLT with this stuff wouldn't work. You'd want to run it off of the same PID/SSR control system used for HERMS and RIMS and in this case I'd recommend putting the RTD directly in the mash. Ideally you'd want to have as much surface area coverage as possible while maintaining a total wattage of around 1000-1500.

 

[gkeusch]

Thanks, that helps a lot. I think I will pursue this idea and let you all know if it works or if I add yet more stuff to my DIY brew-ware museum.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think the key to a project like this is finding a 100 spool of heat tape at a garage sale for $10.

 

[gkeusch]

Yeah, but for some reason that never happens to me. I'm always reading how everybody picks up just what they need at a yard sale - how can these guys find time to brew when all they do is go to rummage sales
(this from the guy who just spent $25 on a new canner for this little adventure)

 

[ajwillys]

Just happened to find this post as I was planning on doing the exact same thing. I'm creating a new mash tun from a 15 gallon keg with a bottom dump (using the sanke coupler) and 15" false bottom. I'm currently using a 10 gallon round cooler with copper manifold but want to do higher gravity 10 gallon batches.

I'm worried the keg won't maintain enough heat and I don't want to have 6" of insulation around it. Also, I loathe pumps/hoses and avoid them. I've been brewing for many years now without a single pump/hose/qd so not interested in RIMS/HERMS if I can avoid it.

Anyway, my plan is to use this:
http://www.danfoss.com/North_Americ...7da/26944f17-845c-4f92-8664-5618112ca550.html

It's 65' so it should be plenty of turns around the keg and its 310 watts so that should be plenty. I'm only looking to maintain heat, not increase heat. I have a gravity fed electric HLT for that. It's rated for 220 degrees and I will control it with an external temp controller (ranco, pid, or stc-1000).

After wrapping the cable, I'll throw a wrap or two of reflectix insulation (aluminum bubble wrap) around it and then use oak strips to provide a nice skin. Yes it will be expensive but it will also be a fully self-contained, bottom drained, internally heated 15 gallon mash tun.

Any obvious flaws in my plan? The only real negative I've found is that this doesn't really aid in step mashing at all but I can live with that.

 

[wilserbrewer]

With 310 watts, plus insulation I would guess that will be enough to maintain temps.

Not sure the controller will be of much value with such low wattage?

310 watts is about what your losses will be, as a guess of course.

You don't plan on trying this outdoors in Minnesota?

I like this idea

 

[ajwillys]

You don't plan on trying this outdoors in Minnesota?

No sir. I generally don't brew much under 45 or so. I have brewed once in the 20's but it was not something I'm dying to do again.

 

[ajwillys]

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead! First a little background. I moved, got a new job, and had a bunch of other excuses I won't bore you with. Since the last reply, I've brewed four times. SAD! Anyway, I've brewed them all with my externally-wrapped ice melt cable MLT. It's an upside down 15 gallon keg with a false bottom and sanke/tri-clamp drain. This one.

The ice melt cable is Danfoss 088L3502 - Constant Watt RX Cable - 120 Volts; 65 ft length.

The cable is zip tied to some plastic fencing I bought and then that is wrapped around the keg.

Two layers of reflectix with just enough velcro hold the whole thing on

It works amazingly well. I absolutely love this system. I put a temperature probe right in with the cable and set it to the temperature of my mash. This way, the walls of the MLT stay the exact temperature needed. Its powerful enough to maintain mash temps with no lid. It can even heat up the mash a bit but I wouldn't rely on this for much.

Anyway, just thought I'd post an update since this thread has been kicking around for quite some time. This is definitely a viable option that I'd recommend. I just did a brew with 30 pounds of grain and it had no issues whatsoever.

 

[AkTom]

I love it when people post results.
Nicely done.