How are you GROUNDING the DRAGON?

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Ideally, you would solder it to the threaded lug that is welded to the kettle for the best grount, but since the tri clamps and all the pieces are conductive, even soldering or screwing to the back cover plate where the cord comes out should work. Justclamp everything up with the seals in place and use a multi-meter to check the continuity between the kettle and the back of the strain relief of the guard.
 
There is a ground lug built into the back cover where the power cord enters.

7016239.jpg
 
There is a ground lug built into the back cover where the power cord enters.

7016239.jpg

I thought it was just sitting on it for the photo and not mounted. I have not purchased the kit yet but am planning on it and was just curious how people were grounding. Thanks
 
Just guessing, because my O ring hasn't leaked yet, but thinking liquid will drain out, advising you of a problem, instead of filling your fitting and making sparks.
At least that is why I have slot pointed down on mine.............
 
I was wondering the same thing! Thanks for the update. Again I'm hoping to order a pair of these bad boys soon. For those are using the Still Dragon element gaurd is there any reason you wouldn't do it again or would something different?
 
I was wondering the same thing! Thanks for the update. Again I'm hoping to order a pair of these bad boys soon. For those are using the Still Dragon element gaurd is there any reason you wouldn't do it again or would something different?

I went this route because I want to able switch to propane if I feel like brewing while summering in the hills, using solar panels for the control and pumps. Also making a sanke fermentor that I can take the tri clamp dip tube out and use the element for one of those things we don't talk about here.

Just seemed more flexible than building/screwing a box on, and easier than building a box with sanitary connections, which would cost about the same anyway.
 

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