Hops in a bag?

[Dale Owen]

Trying to decide whether to put hop additions in a cloth. I'm hoping to cut back on trub, as I don't rack to a secondary and am ending up with a lot of sediment when bottling. If I use a bag, should the bag go with the wort into the primary? Are there cons to using a bag in the first place? Should I just get better at taking other steps to avoid bottling sediment?

 

[Jag75]

I'll just say this . I always have used bags when dry hopping. Never have I had an issue. The only time I've dry hopped commando ( no bags) it was a nightmare. So going back to my normal process .....if it ain't broke dont fix it . People say you get better utilization, which you do . Flavor wise i didnt find it better at all. You also lose more beer dry hopping commando.

When it comes to bottling and eliminating sediment using whirfloc and leaving in your FV a little longer will benefit it. I'm a 3 week FV brewer. I will dry hop about 3-5 days out from packaging , purging the fermenter with co2 while dry hopping.

 

[RM-MN]

Trying to decide whether to put hop additions in a cloth. I'm hoping to cut back on trub, as I don't rack to a secondary and am ending up with a lot of sediment when bottling. If I use a bag, should the bag go with the wort into the primary? Are there cons to using a bag in the first place? Should I just get better at taking other steps to avoid bottling sediment?

This isn't the answer to the question you asked so ignore it if you want. There will always be some sediment in a naturally carbonated, unfiltered beer. I can barely see mine in a clear bottle but it is always there. To minimize that I give the beer plenty of time in the fermenter, 3 to 4 weeks usually, then carefully rack it to the bottling bucket. By letting the bottling bucket sit undisturbed for 15 to 30 minutes prior to starting to bottle, the trub that may have gotten sucked up in racking settles out again and stays in the bottling bucket....well it does until I get greedy and try to save that last half bottle.

 

[Transamguy77]

I will add what @RM-MN said and letting your beer settle for a bit will always help, from what I have experienced is I just end up with less beer if I don’t bag, I have always bagged my hops and always will, I can’t say if there is a taste difference or not but they have always turned out good so it doesn’t really matter to me.

If you don’t bag just calculate a bit more liquid in the fermenter to make up your loss and using whirlfloc and cold crashing will help with sediment.

 

[Dale Owen]

This isn't the answer to the question you asked

That's actually part of it. I really want to know whether, if I put the hops in a bag during the boil, they should also go with the wart into the fermenter. But, the reason I use the bags in the first place is I am trying to figure out steps I can take to reduce sediment. I'm alright with some some sediment, that's part of bottle conditioned beers, but I've had some that i was not on top of my game and I end up with bottles with 1/4 inch of funk. So, your advice is definitely appreciated.

 

[RM-MN]

The hops in the boil, assuming you don't use a ton of them, usually settle out in the fermenter pretty well. Dry hopping with pellets....well.....yes they are supposed to sink to the bottom but often don't completely. I wrap a paint strainer bag around the siphon, holding it in place with a rubber band, and that seems to catch most of the hop material. I've been putting the bag on the inlet of the siphon but may try putting it on the end of the hose where it goes into the bucket as sometimes the bag gets so plugged that the siphon stops.

 

[Onthebrew]

I will add what @RM-MN said and letting your beer settle for a bit will always help, from what I have experienced is I just end up with less beer if I don’t bag, I have always bagged my hops and always will, I can’t say if there is a taste difference or not but they have always turned out good so it doesn’t really matter to me.

If you don’t bag just calculate a bit more liquid in the fermenter to make up your loss and using whirlfloc and cold crashing will help with sediment.

bear in mind the reason you lose some beer is because of the better contact with the hops. if you added more hops to get the same hit you would probably lose as much beer.

 

[Woodhaus]

Trying to decide whether to put hop additions in a cloth. I'm hoping to cut back on trub, as I don't rack to a secondary and am ending up with a lot of sediment when bottling. If I use a bag, should the bag go with the wort into the primary? Are there cons to using a bag in the first place? Should I just get better at taking other steps to avoid bottling sediment?

I assume you’re talking about dry hopping??? I use a stainless steel mesh ball and throw it in the primary (I gave up on racking). I feel safer (contamination-wise) using stainless steel over cloth. You can’t avoid sediment if bottle conditioning, but you can greatly reduce it by cold crashing, clearing with an additive (I use gelatin) and letting it sit for an extended period of time post-fermentation. I don’t always cold crash, but always use gelatin and let it sit 1-2 weeks after fermentation. I only get a very thin film of sediment on the bottom of the bottle and the carbonation is good.

 

[jmk]

That's actually part of it. I really want to know whether, if I put the hops in a bag during the boil, they should also go with the wart into the fermenter. But, the reason I use the bags in the first place is I am trying to figure out steps I can take to reduce sediment. I'm alright with some some sediment, that's part of bottle conditioned beers, but I've had some that i was not on top of my game and I end up with bottles with 1/4 inch of funk. So, your advice is definitely appreciated.

Yes putting hops in a bag helps remove most of the hops at the end of the boil.

 

[Wolfbrau]

I'm going to try some of these, boiled some tea with them and it worked great, nothing came off the mesh:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WZW1LG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Dgallo]

So technically there is a right answer and it’s to go no bag , surface area and extraction have a direct correlation. as more hop material is in contact with more wort, the greater the extraction. In a bag , hop particulates are more constricted and therefore you’ll have less extraction if you choose to bag your hops, you’ll have to use 20% -30% more hops to get the extraction without a bag

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I am trying to figure out steps I can take to reduce sediment.

Over in the 1-Gallon Brewers UNITE! topic, there have been a number of people who have discussed ideas on reducing sediment when using a one gallon carboy.

Should I just get better at taking other steps to avoid bottling sediment?

It's likely to be a more productive starting point.

 

[Snuffy]

Before I bought a hop spider, I used bags to contain pellet hops during the boil so I didn't get so much sludge into the primary. I tied the bags loosely and never noticed any flavor difference between that and just tossing them in. I learned not to squeeze the bags after - just let them drip. I had to re-learn that same lesson with the spider - just toss the hops in and don't stir it or you run the risk of over-hopping. Dry hopping using pellets without a bag is a mistake I only made once. Whole hops I bag too but they float so not a big deal to drain from under or siphon around. I'm not a huge IPA fan. I like an IPA now and again to change things up, and I have buddies who love em, but brewing for myself, I don't do a whole lot of dry hopping.

 

[bwible]

I recently bought a hop spider from ebay for use during the boil. It has made a huge difference. Its a metal screened cylinder that hangs on the side of the kettle and contains your hops. You pull it out with just about all your hops at the end of the boil.

For dry hopping in secondary, I bought one of the large mouth plastic carboys. I use that in combination with another screened cylinder I bought on ebay, like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/300-Micron...640494?hash=item52363327ee:g:NuQAAOSw0rVe2Ld4
I can also use this cylinder to dry hop right in the keg.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Right or wrong, here's what I did just yesterday. I completed my first BIAB batch and did use a hop bag during the boil. I occasionally moved the bag around just to ensure it was getting as much flow as possible. When the boil was complete, I did squeeze the bag. I did not include it in the fermenter. During transfer, I was pleasantly rewarded with very little trub. Unless there's a reason not to, I plan to continue with this process.

 

[Snuffy]

Right or wrong, here's what I did just yesterday. I completed my first BIAB batch and did use a hop bag during the boil. I occasionally moved the bag around just to ensure it was getting as much flow as possible. When the boil was complete, I did squeeze the bag. I did not include it in the fermenter. During transfer, I was pleasantly rewarded with very little trub. Unless there's a reason not to, I plan to continue with this process.

The only time I squeezed the hop bag, the batch came out a bit too hoppy for my taste. An IPA may not even notice it, but the Belhaven Scottish Ale clone I was brewing definitely did. I teabag it a bit, let it drain very well, and maybe give it a pinch to help it finish up, but I avoid squeezing. You definitely don't need a bag of spent hops in the fermenter.

 

[Dgallo]

The only time I squeezed the hop bag, the batch came out a bit too hoppy for my taste. An IPA may not even notice it, but the Belhaven Scottish Ale clone I was brewing definitely did. I let it drain very well and maybe give it a pinch to help it finish up and teabag it a bit, but I avoid squeezing. You definitely don't need a bag of spent hops in the fermenter.

I just don’t know why so many people bag or hop spider boil hops. Literally doesn’t make sense. Your are going to leave the trub and hot break in the kettle anyway. If you Whirlpool slightly while cooling all the trub and hops will settle to the bottom.

I even Whirlpool hop with roughly 6 oz hotside and never run into an issue I just add another lb of base malt and up the volume a .25 gallon and have no issues. When it comes to hops, it’s all about extraction potential, so why inhibit it with bags or spiders

 

[Snuffy]

I just don’t know why so many people bag or hop spider boil hops. Literally doesn’t make sense. Your are going to leave the trub and hot break in the kettle anyway. If you Whirlpool slightly while cooling all the trub and hops will settle to the bottom.
I even Whirlpool hop with roughly 6 oz hotside and never run into an issue I just add another lb of base malt and up the volume a .25 gallon and have no issues. When it comes to hops, it’s all about extraction potential, so why inhibit it with bags or spiders

I'm using a Mash and Boil unit. Once boil is done and wort cooled, I transfer to the fermenter with the valve that is located close enough to the floor of the unit that it draws hop sludge with the flow. I don't want to ferment on hop sludge if I can help it. Filtering takes too long. So if it's possible to get it done and limit the sludge - I'm there. I'm not a fan of really hoppy beers anyway. I'll drink em and I'll brew 'em for my DIPA freak buddies, but a little extraction inhibition doesn't bother me.

And I'm not tying these bags into a tight knob. The hops are getting plenty of turbulence in the boil and are totally mud by the time boil is complete. And the spider I bought is about as large as a small minnow basket. The hops have plenty of room to roll and boil freely in there.

 

[Jag75]

I have the Grainfather . I added a false bottom along with the filter . I've done big hopped brews and never is an issue with transferring hop sludge. Is all caked down . I only use bags for dry hopping .

 

[Snuffy]

I have the Grainfather . I added a false bottom along with the filter . I've done big hopped brews and never is an issue with transferring hop sludge. Is all caked down . I only use bags for dry hopping .

Nice. I'll have to see if they have those for the M&B. Does that bottom fit ok under your grain basket? That would probably elevate the top of mine slightly above the rim of the kettle but probably not a problem.

 

[Jag75]

Nice. I'll have to see if they have those for the M&B. Does that bottom fit ok under your grain basket? That would probably elevate the top of mine slightly above the rim of the kettle but probably not a problem.

So I had an extra top screen for my Grainfather. I added SS bolts and nuts to make legs . The circumference is a bit small , but since then I bought the false bottom for the Robobrew and it fits perfect. Yes , both fit fine under .

 

[Snuffy]

They don’t make one for the M&B that I can find so I’d definitely have to rig something. Nice work.

 

[Jag75]

They don’t make one for the M&B that I can find so I’d definitely have to rig something. Nice work.

What's the circumference of your M&B?

 

[Snuffy]

What's the circumference of your M&B?

Diameter of kettle is about 11.5 inches. So interior circumference would be... about 36 inches.

 

[Carolina_Matt]

I'm using a Mash and Boil unit. Once boil is done and wort cooled, I transfer to the fermenter with the valve that is located close enough to the floor of the unit that it draws hop sludge with the flow. I don't want to ferment on hop sludge if I can help it. Filtering takes too long. So if it's possible to get it done and limit the sludge - I'm there. I'm not a fan of really hoppy beers anyway. I'll drink em and I'll brew 'em for my DIPA freak buddies, but a little extraction inhibition doesn't bother me.

And I'm not tying these bags into a tight knob. The hops are getting plenty of turbulence in the boil and are totally mud by the time boil is complete. And the spider I bought is about as large as a small minnow basket. The hops have plenty of room to roll and boil freely in there.

I have a similar issue with my Digiboil. I don't have an actual whirlpool arm, but even when I spin the wort as fast as I can and then let it sit for a while, I still pick up a lot of sludge as soon as I open the valve. A colander will pick up some of the hops, but still let a lot through. A 200 micron bucket filter will catch a lot more, but it takes forever.

Have you considered a dip tube like this? You can turn it so that it's pointing slightly up, and it should avoid picking up the sludge at the bottom.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/anvil-stainless-steel-dip-tube-includes-nut-oring.html