After 2 months of planning/study/and parts finding
I just started my build today! Sept 9th, 2013 will live forever in my mind one way or the other! I have now tested the burners they take just under hour & 1/2 pound propane to get boil...half that to get to 165 deg F. So after 35 years away from brewing, Im back in the saddle.
I will be using 2 Husky rolling 5 drawer tool chests as my single tier base (HomeDepot $135ea) so after 4 hours of cutting and grinding one is fitted with the burner unit, vented and ported to propane tank outside of cabinet. One chest will carry the HLT and one pump, another will carry the BrewKettle and the other pump. The Mash/Lauder tank will sit on a metal piece which will be temporarily connecting the 2chests. There will be plumbing will be in each chest with quick disconnects where they come out on the sides to allow whole set up to roll and transport anywhere quite easily. All the drawer fronts still in place so quite pretty! 1/2 the second drawer is useable but only opens ½ way. The top drawer is pretty useless but pretty! The pumps and plumbing will be in the 3rd drawer and supplies spares/tools can use the bottom two drawers.
The plumbing will have a main line in each chest V angling down to the pumps in each (slightly). This hopefully will assist the priming issues some. The system is based on BlackHeart Brewery design (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/automated-herms-system-132119/ ). All of the valves (solenoids will be inside the cabinets or attaching with quick disconnects to the back side of kettles and enter the chests asap. I will be using a HERMS recycle using the stainless steel ½ 50 coils from an old jockey box I just bought. Also using both 50 coils for wort chiller. Haven't decided whether to put coils in pots or just run sweet wort(HERMS)/boiled wort thru the jockey box as will have hot water left after mash in which I could put into Jockey box with an electric element I have from an old turkey fryer to maintain the temp??? ANY IDEAS?? Mathmatecal formulas as to which would work best? Id kinda like to keep jockey box intact tho. I will be connecting the HERMs to one coil end the two coils with a connector and then back to the pump to either mash or Boil kettle. To get back to jockey box only remove connector and replace spigots! The jockey box when not brewing will allow service of two additional beers as have a two corny kegerator and could reasonably have the additional two chilled and servable as well.
I will be building a Fermentor/Kegerator box as well since temps year round here in Hawaii are pretty high winter gets down to 70 deg F at my house! Will be putting a collar around a large chest freezer with electronic cooling control so ferment temps ok when needed and COLD for service. A fermentor will be also built from a small fridge w/box hanging off front , so kegerator can be dedicated. I will eventually get to those, after system build is done. AND SOME BREWS DONE!
Just received my Greenlee Punches in the mail! Now can build my HLT and MLT w/ weldless fittings. The build of first ½ of the set went so well, Im tempted to go buy the second tool chest, but think I will boil some water later to make sure no ventilation/heating issues being confined in the chest. I would also me nice if I wait until my first pump (March 815) arrives to pump boiling water to check usability of the solenoids I have chosen so the total can be bought. I hope to set up the solenoids to a swich for each setting..ie if valves 2, 3, 5, 9 all need open just flip switch #1. If valve 1, 3, 4, 11 need open swich #1 off and #2 on etc. Easy to sequence through each diff process. The pumps mounted slightly downhill from everything any liquid left from cavitating pumps at end of process will be pring for the next process. Everything after boiling keg is sterilized and inside a sealed system as I will be pumping directly to Cornys for fermentation and then to serving kegs from there!
Ill post pictures as soon and I figure how to do it as at 66yrs old IM NOT MUCH OF A TECHIE!
Aloha, Jim
I will be using 2 Husky rolling 5 drawer tool chests as my single tier base (HomeDepot $135ea) so after 4 hours of cutting and grinding one is fitted with the burner unit, vented and ported to propane tank outside of cabinet. One chest will carry the HLT and one pump, another will carry the BrewKettle and the other pump. The Mash/Lauder tank will sit on a metal piece which will be temporarily connecting the 2chests. There will be plumbing will be in each chest with quick disconnects where they come out on the sides to allow whole set up to roll and transport anywhere quite easily. All the drawer fronts still in place so quite pretty! 1/2 the second drawer is useable but only opens ½ way. The top drawer is pretty useless but pretty! The pumps and plumbing will be in the 3rd drawer and supplies spares/tools can use the bottom two drawers.
The plumbing will have a main line in each chest V angling down to the pumps in each (slightly). This hopefully will assist the priming issues some. The system is based on BlackHeart Brewery design (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/automated-herms-system-132119/ ). All of the valves (solenoids will be inside the cabinets or attaching with quick disconnects to the back side of kettles and enter the chests asap. I will be using a HERMS recycle using the stainless steel ½ 50 coils from an old jockey box I just bought. Also using both 50 coils for wort chiller. Haven't decided whether to put coils in pots or just run sweet wort(HERMS)/boiled wort thru the jockey box as will have hot water left after mash in which I could put into Jockey box with an electric element I have from an old turkey fryer to maintain the temp??? ANY IDEAS?? Mathmatecal formulas as to which would work best? Id kinda like to keep jockey box intact tho. I will be connecting the HERMs to one coil end the two coils with a connector and then back to the pump to either mash or Boil kettle. To get back to jockey box only remove connector and replace spigots! The jockey box when not brewing will allow service of two additional beers as have a two corny kegerator and could reasonably have the additional two chilled and servable as well.
I will be building a Fermentor/Kegerator box as well since temps year round here in Hawaii are pretty high winter gets down to 70 deg F at my house! Will be putting a collar around a large chest freezer with electronic cooling control so ferment temps ok when needed and COLD for service. A fermentor will be also built from a small fridge w/box hanging off front , so kegerator can be dedicated. I will eventually get to those, after system build is done. AND SOME BREWS DONE!
Just received my Greenlee Punches in the mail! Now can build my HLT and MLT w/ weldless fittings. The build of first ½ of the set went so well, Im tempted to go buy the second tool chest, but think I will boil some water later to make sure no ventilation/heating issues being confined in the chest. I would also me nice if I wait until my first pump (March 815) arrives to pump boiling water to check usability of the solenoids I have chosen so the total can be bought. I hope to set up the solenoids to a swich for each setting..ie if valves 2, 3, 5, 9 all need open just flip switch #1. If valve 1, 3, 4, 11 need open swich #1 off and #2 on etc. Easy to sequence through each diff process. The pumps mounted slightly downhill from everything any liquid left from cavitating pumps at end of process will be pring for the next process. Everything after boiling keg is sterilized and inside a sealed system as I will be pumping directly to Cornys for fermentation and then to serving kegs from there!
Ill post pictures as soon and I figure how to do it as at 66yrs old IM NOT MUCH OF A TECHIE!
Aloha, Jim