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elikova

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Hi guys. I was very successful with my first brew and want to make a nice amber ale recipe. But I need some help deciphering what the terms such as grain, sparge and whatever else is used in the recipe mean. I wanna nail this so please help!!
Amber Ale Recipe
 
A few questions need to be asked before further advice can be given... How did you make your first batch? Which brewing process are you set up to do? What kind of access do you have to different kinds of ingredients? It seems that you may need to do some “homework” to become more familiar with the different processes. A couple books to consider would be ‘How to Brew’— John Palmer and/or ‘The Complete Joy of Home Brewing’— Charlie Papazians
The first version of that recipe you link is for all grain brewers (2 or 3 vessel, BIAB, etc) and the second version is as it says for extract brewers.
 
A few questions need to be asked before further advice can be given... How did you make your first batch? Which brewing process are you set up to do? What kind of access do you have to different kinds of ingredients? It seems that you may need to do some “homework” to become more familiar with the different processes. A couple books to consider would be ‘How to Brew’— John Palmer and/or ‘The Complete Joy of Home Brewing’— Charlie Papazians
The first version of that recipe you link is for all grain brewers (2 or 3 vessel, BIAB, etc) and the second version is as it says for extract brewers.

i have good access to really any ingredients. I’m just saying the recipe seems very straight forward. I’m looking for someone to elaborate. I have a starting brewers kit with the carboy, bucket airlock, siphon, etc. I wanna make a nice simple amber ale.
 
Well... it is a fairly simple recipe. We’ll still need to know which process you intend to use in order to give appropriate advice. Besides the equipment you listed above, you’ll need a boil kettle, possibly a mash tun, steeping bags, etc, etc.
 
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Grain— malted barley, caramel/crystal malt, roasted malt, flaked grain, etc.
Mash— soaking crushed grains in a specific amount of water (typically between 149-156°) for about an hour to convert their starches into fermentable sugars.
Sparge— Rinsing the mashed grain with another specific amount of water to rinse as much of the sugar off them as possible to achieve the volume needed to start the boil.
Steep— (used for extract w/grains brewing) soaking specialty grains in 150°ish water for about 30 minutes to extract mostly flavor and color. There is a small amount of sugar converted.

There are many more terms you’ll need to know and the proper order they need to be performed in for a successful brew day.
 
There are tons of great videos on youtube that explain the process, tools and techniques of homebrewing. However, none of it will actually stick until you go through the process yourself. Also find out if your local lhbs offers classes, they are super helpful.
 
Grain— malted barley, caramel/crystal malt, roasted malt, flaked grain, etc.
Mash— soaking crushed grains in a specific amount of water (typically between 149-156°) for about an hour to convert their starches into fermentable sugars.
Sparge— Rinsing the mashed grain with another specific amount of water to rinse as much of the sugar off them as possible to achieve the volume needed to start the boil.
Steep— (used for extract w/grains brewing) soaking specialty grains in 150°ish water for about 30 minutes to extract mostly flavor and color. There is a small amount of sugar converted.

There are many more terms you’ll need to know and the proper order they need to be performed in for a successful brew day.
What would be the simplest way to achieve this recipe? I want to just use pots to do it. Not a “mash tun” please explain.
 
What would be the simplest way to achieve this recipe? I want to just use pots to do it. Not a “mash tun” please explain.

It sounds like it would be best for you to follow the "Extract Recipe" instructions at the bottom of the page you linked. You will not have to mash for this process, just steep a few pounds of grains, similar to steeping tea.
 
It sounds like it would be best for you to follow the "Extract Recipe" instructions at the bottom of the page you linked. You will not have to mash for this process, just steep a few pounds of grains, similar to steeping tea.

What would be the difference in the final recipe if I used the extract. Would it still create the same recipe? I'm confused as this part doesn't say exactly how much water to run through it.

"Drain, sparge, and proceed with a 60 minute boil."
 
What would be the difference in the final recipe if I used the extract. Would it still create the same recipe? I'm confused as this part doesn't say exactly how much water to run through it.

"Drain, sparge, and proceed with a 60 minute boil."

You do not need to drain or sparge. I would use around 7 gallons of water to start with. Heat that up to 150F and steep the grains. Once done steeping for 30 minutes remove the grains and then stir in your extract and bring to a boil and follow the recipe from the "Hops" section.

As others have mentioned you will gain a lot of insight to the process by reading How to Brew and watching Youtube videos for "Extract Brewing".
 
That's for the all-grain recipe. That's the mash tun part that you said that you don't want to use.

Okay. I understand - so it's a slightly different process. Sorry i'm pretty new to all this. So if i follow the extract version. So I'm a little confused, do these steps seem correct?

1.) Adding crystal 80L, Munich and victory in the muslin bag and steeping it in 150-155F for 30 minutes

2.) removing bag and draining into boil kettle

3.) adding extract and letting it dissolve

4.) turn flame back on and bring to a boil

5.) adding 0.5 oz Warrior hops to grain bag at the beginning of the 60 minute boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag with 20 minutes left in the boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag with 10 minutes left in the boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag with 5 minutes left in the boil.

6.) letting it cool afterwards to 64F then add to fermentor?

(am i supposed to add the hops to the grain bag or remove the bag with the crystal, Munich and victory, and add the hops right to the mash? thanks.
 
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You do not need to drain or sparge. I would use around 7 gallons of water to start with. Heat that up to 150F and steep the grains. Once done steeping for 30 minutes remove the grains and then stir in your extract and bring to a boil and follow the recipe from the "Hops" section.

As others have mentioned you will gain a lot of insight to the process by reading How to Brew and watching Youtube videos for "Extract Brewing".
so i dont add the hops to the bag. i remove the bag and add it straight to the pot correct? and 7 gallons because a lot of that evaporates yeah? that'll make 5.5 gallons you think?
 
Okay. I understand - so it's a slightly different process. Sorry i'm pretty new to all this. So if i follow the extract version. So I'm a little confused, do these steps seem correct?

1.) Adding crystal 80L, Munich and victory in the muslin bag and steeping it in 150-155F for 30 minutes

2.) removing bag and draining into boil kettle Just steep the grains in the pot you will use for boiling in, there's no reason to use a second pot here

3.) adding extract and letting it dissolve

4.) turn flame back on and bring to a boil Stir it and watch it very carefully, it will create a ton of foam and you will need to remove it from the heat if the foam starts to rise. A boil over is a very sticky mess

5.) adding 0.5 oz Warrior hops to grain bag to boil pot at the beginning of the 60 minute boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag to boil pot with 20 minutes left in the boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag to boil pot with 10 minutes left in the boil.
0.5 oz Centennial hops to grain bag to boil pot with 5 minutes left in the boil.

6.) letting it cool afterwards to 64F then add to fermentor? Yes - but make sure the pot stays covered so that it does not get bacteria in it while it cools

(am i supposed to add the hops to the grain bag or remove the bag with the crystal, Munich and victory, and add the hops right to the mash? thanks. You add the hops right to the boil - you are not doing a mash

So I modified your steps above with some minor comments


so i dont add the hops to the bag. i remove the bag and add it straight to the pot correct? and 7 gallons because a lot of that evaporates yeah? that'll make 5.5 gallons you think?

exactly right

I would highly highly recommend reading one of the two books mentioned above (How to Brew or the Complete Joy of Homebrewing). It is important to have a good foundation of understanding all of the terms and steps.
 
so i dont add the hops to the bag. i remove the bag and add it straight to the pot correct? and 7 gallons because a lot of that evaporates yeah? that'll make 5.5 gallons you think?

You can use the bag to boil your hops if you make sure you clean out your steeping grains well. Adding the hops directly to your liquid during the boil will work fine also.

Yes, you'll need more than 5.5 gallons at the start of the boil in order to get to your final volume. The steeping grains will soak up some water that you won't be able to recover and I would estimate around 1 gallon boil off in one hour.
 
Make sure your steeping grains are crushed or you’ll be very disappointed in the outcome.
To do a full volume boil, you’ll need a kettle that holds 8-10 gallons. If your kettle isn’t that large, you’ll need to perform a partial boil and top up your fermenter to the proper volume...~5.5 gallons in this case.
I don’t want to sound harsh, but I feel like you need to slow down a bit and really study the extract brewing with grains process or you’ll just get discouraged along the way if you don’t fully understand each step and why it’s done.
 
Make sure your steeping grains are crushed or you’ll be very disappointed in the outcome.
To do a full volume boil, you’ll need a kettle that holds 8-10 gallons. If your kettle isn’t that large, you’ll need to perform a partial boil and top up your fermenter to the proper volume...~5.5 gallons in this case.
I don’t want to sound harsh, but I feel like you need to slow down a bit and really study the extract brewing with grains process or you’ll just get discouraged along the way if you don’t fully understand each step and why it’s done.

Yeah, I mean I agree with you. However I just completed my first batch a few weeks ago. and i tried a beer and it was amazing. It was an extract recipe that came with the kit. I'm confident I can do this recipe. Here is something i made for myself. tell me if you think its good.


Red Yum Amber Ale

Ingredients

Grain Bill
  1. 6 lbs of light dry malt extract
  2. 1.5 lbs. Crystal 80L Malt
  3. 1 lb. Victory Malt
  4. 1 lb. Munich Malt

Hops
  1. 0.5 oz Warrior hops
  2. 1.5 oz Centennial hops .


  1. Put 7 Gallons of water in a pot and heat it to 150-155F.
  2. In a muslin bag, add crystal 80L, munich and victory grains, steep for 30 mins.
  3. Remove the bag and allow grains to drain into the boil kettle.
  4. Turn off flame and dissolve light dry malt extract into a kettle.
  5. Turn flame back on, stir carefully, bring to a boil for 60 minutes.
  6. Add 0.5 oz Warrior hops added at the beginning of the 60 minute boil.
  7. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops with 20 minutes left in the boil.
  8. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops with 10 minutes left in the boil.
  9. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops added with 5 minutes left in the boil.
10.) Cover and let mixture chill to 64-66 degrees.
11.) Add wort (contents of pot) into fermenter
12.) Pitch 2 packages of yeast and mix gently.
13.) Close up and add an airlock.

Fermenting
  1. Ferment at 66F for two weeks before bottling or kegging.
  2. Secondary fermentation for one week to improve clarity and reduce sedimentation is optional.
 
Yeah, I mean I agree with you. However I just completed my first batch a few weeks ago. and i tried a beer and it was amazing. It was an extract recipe that came with the kit. I'm confident I can do this recipe. Here is something i made for myself. tell me if you think its good.

This looks good but I wouldn't even have a secondary as an option. For a simple beer like this you just increase risk of oxidation and infection.
Also instead of covering and allowing it to chill you can fill your sink with ice and place the kettle into the sink (if it fits, and you can lift it). Letting it chill without any method of cooling will take a long time. Is this how you chilled your last batch?
 
Yes, those are the correct steps. Between #3&4, discard the grain... you’re done with it. The flame shouldn’t be on when you’re steeping. What kind of yeast will you be using? If it’s dry, 1 packet will be sufficient for a recipe with those ingredients. Most folks would eliminate the secondary.
What was your first recipe? I’m wondering if it was a pre-hopped extract kit judging by the questions you’re asking.
 
A couple of minor clarifications that may be helpful:
Red Yum Amber Ale

Ingredients

Grain Bill
  1. 6 lbs of light dry malt extract
  2. 1.5 lbs. Crystal 80L Malt
  3. 1 lb. Victory Malt
  4. 1 lb. Munich Malt

Hops
  1. 0.5 oz Warrior hops
  2. 1.5 oz Centennial hops .

  1. Put 7 Gallons of water in a pot and heat it to 150-155F.
  2. In a muslin bag, add crystal 80L, munich and victory grains, steep for 30 mins.
  3. Remove the bag and allow grains to drain into the boil kettle. Don't squeeze the grain, just let it drain naturally.
  4. Turn off flame and dissolve light dry malt extract into the boil kettle.
  5. Turn flame back on, stir carefully, bring to a boil for 60 minutes.
  6. Add 0.5 oz Warrior hops added at the beginning of the 60 minute boil.
  7. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops with 20 minutes left in the boil.
  8. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops with 10 minutes left in the boil.
  9. Add 0.5 oz Centennial hops added with 5 minutes left in the boil.
10.) Cover and chill to 64-66 degrees.
11.) Measure and record OG.
12.) Add wort (contents of pot) into sterilized fermenter.
13.) Pitch 2 packages of yeast and mix gently.
14.) Close up and add an airlock.

Fermenting
  1. Ferment at 66F for two weeks until fermentation is complete and yeast activity has ceased.
  2. Measure FG to ensure complete fermentation.
  3. Bottle or keg.
  4. If bottling, add priming sugar mixed with sufficient hot water to the beer and mix before bottling.
Hope this helps...
 
First off, welcome to the hobby.

Suggestion, you can take it or ignore it. Since you're coming into this quite green I really think it would be to your advantage to first read up a little, (two great book suggestions have already been given). I started with John Palmer's book, "How to Brew." Also what really helped me a lot was to watch many of the YouTube videos online. I know I spent many hours/days watching how-to videos, first to better understand the process, but then to search out specific videos for specific questions that I had. For me it was a much more effective learning experience watching someone brew step by step rather than asking, in a forum, every question that popped into my head. I actually began watching videos, reading books, and purchasing equipment a full year before I ever attempted my first brew day.

Once you have decided on the method you'll be using, and better understand the steps you'll be taking to get there, then come here and ask specific questions. I feel so may of the things your asking can be easily researched on your own time rather than asking the forum to teach you how to brew from the ground up.
 
Helpful pointer...all your process steps seem good...
Don't shortcut! And take measurements!
Case in point:
--Cool the wort down to 65F to pitch yeast...make sure to stir and do not pitch if it's not cool enough...
I've pitched yeast in the high seventies after having read a few experiments telling me it shouldn't be a problem...BUT I hadn't stirred the wort recently and it was really more like 90F...the resulting beer tasted like nail polish...
 
Hey guys so I’ve decided to do the brew in a bag method with this home brew. And I’ve decided I’m gonna add 6.5 gallons of water head to 162 to get a stable temp of 153. And when it says leave for 30 mins at 153 do they mean shut the burner off, or maintain that temp, by keeping the burner on low...?
 
You heat water to 160ish because you are going to lose some temp during the time you mash in. You want to thoroughly mix the grain with the water in the bag and stir thoroughly, not just dunk the bag like a tea bag. You have to break up any dry dough balls and avoid pockets of dry grain. The reason for this is that you won’t extract sugar from any grain that doesn’t get wet and mixed in - sonyou will lose gravity points, meaning your beer will be weaker than it should.

Mash time is another area people like to argue and debate over what is necessary but traditional mash time is 60 min. During that time, the idea is to try to maintain as close to a constant mash temp as possible. Some of use insulated coolers with p perforated bottom inside as a seperate mash tun/strainer. I’ve only tried Brew in a Bag once or twice and I did not apply heat to the pot during the mash. The big thing you want to be careful not to do is melt or burn your bag - some of them will melt. You also don’t want to burn or scorch grain on the bottom of the pot.

After the mash, you need to be able to lift and drain the grain. Some people set up pulleys above their work area, others use a collander or other strainer that can sit on top of the brewpot, hold the grains weight and allow it to drain.
 
For maintaining temperature during the mash, if you are doing BIAB, wrapping the enitre thing in bath towels or the like (of course off the heat, no need for a fire!) does wonders for maintaining that temp. The issue with having the heat on is the difficulty to keep an even, consistent temperature without more involved controls.
 
I do biab and during the mash I turn off the heat, wrap the kettle with a mover's blanket, and wrap that with a sleeping bag. I use bungy cords to keep it in place. On a nice, warm day I rarely lose more than a degree or two over an hour.
When I brew indoors (smaller batch - four gallon kettle) I put it in the oven that was pre-heated to 170°. Once in the oven I turn it off. At around 30 minutes or so I turn the oven back on for a couple minutes, and then turn it off. Over the hour my temperature remains really close to where I want it to be, usually 152°.
 
Hey guys so I’ve decided to do the brew in a bag method with this home brew. And I’ve decided I’m gonna add 6.5 gallons of water head to 162 to get a stable temp of 153. And when it says leave for 30 mins at 153 do they mean shut the burner off, or maintain that temp, by keeping the burner on low...?

You realize that if you use the brew in a bag method, that you need to remove the malt extract from your recipe and replace it with a base malt such as 2-row or pilsen malt right? Brew in a bag is an all-grain brewing method, whereas your previous questions have been extract brewing, so I want to be sure.
 
Brew in a bag is an all-grain brewing method, whereas your previous questions have been extract brewing, so I want to be sure.
I was thinking the same thing. This thread has been all over the place and very hard to follow.

I’ve decided I’m gonna add 6.5 gallons of water head to 162 to get a stable temp of 153
Are you going to top up your fermenter with extra water when your boil is complete? If you’re doing a full volume mash with no sparge, you’ll need a kettle that is at least 10-12 gallons. 6.5 gallons of water to start your mash will probably leave you short (most of my recipes start with 7.5-8 gallons of water) You will have 12.5 pounds of crushed grain when you start and when you initially lift your grain bag out of the 150°+ water it could weigh up to about 30 lbs. Do you have a way to lift that and hold it while it drains without getting burnt?
 
I made a gallon of the Red Yum, exact one you posted with a couple of slight modifications and it came out great.

I accidentally used 60% more hops (kitchen scale issue, I have a new one now) and added 0.2lbs of pure brown sugar to the boil to increase ABV.

Honestly, one of my absolute favorite beers and it came out looking gorgeous.

I just bottled a 5 gallon batch of it. This time I used the correct amount of hops :p
This will forever be in my rotation. Excellent body and head.
 

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You realize that if you use the brew in a bag method, that you need to remove the malt extract from your recipe and replace it with a base malt such as 2-row or pilsen malt right? Brew in a bag is an all-grain brewing method, whereas your previous questions have been extract brewing, so I want to be sure.
Yeah I changed that.
 
I made a gallon of the Red Yum, exact one you posted with a couple of slight modifications and it came out great.

I accidentally used 60% more hops (kitchen scale issue, I have a new one now) and added 0.2lbs of pure brown sugar to the boil to increase ABV.

Honestly, one of my absolute favorite beers and it came out looking gorgeous.

I just bottled a 5 gallon batch of it. This time I used the correct amount of hops :p
This will forever be in my rotation. Excellent body and head.
 

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It’s supposed to be 5.5 gallon recipe. Should I add some water rn? And how much. I used one of those calculators
 

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It’s supposed to be 5.5 gallon recipe. Should I add some water rn? And how much. I used one of those calculators

Well, the recipe is for 5.5 gallons. How much do you have in the fermenter right now? You would have to add the difference. Or you could just have less of a stronger beer. Either is fine.

If you do choose to add water (I wouldn't bother personally) make sure you boil the water first to sterilize it and then cool it to the temperature of the wort before adding it.

When you add it? Do so VERY carefully. Do not splash, and do not introduce oxygen.

Let me know how it goes!
 
Well, the recipe is for 5.5 gallons. How much do you have in the fermenter right now? You would have to add the difference. Or you could just have less of a stronger beer. Either is fine.

If you do choose to add water (I wouldn't bother personally) make sure you boil the water first to sterilize it and then cool it to the temperature of the wort before adding it.

When you add it? Do so VERY carefully. Do not splash, and do not introduce oxygen.

Let me know how it goes!
I had to make a decision. I added tap water but my water was tested and it was near perfect. I did this with my last batch and it tastes really good I read that someone else said as long as your water tastes good it’ll be good.
 
Well, the recipe is for 5.5 gallons. How much do you have in the fermenter right now? You would have to add the difference. Or you could just have less of a stronger beer. Either is fine.

If you do choose to add water (I wouldn't bother personally) make sure you boil the water first to sterilize it and then cool it to the temperature of the wort before adding it.

When you add it? Do so VERY carefully. Do not splash, and do not introduce oxygen.

Let me know how it goes!
Does this appear to be too much sediment??
 

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Did you make any changes to the recipe?

I brewed mine in a bucket, so I didn't see everything...but that looks to be what I would expect. You would try to reduce that amount in the future by pouring as little trub as possible into the fermenter. Some is healthy for yeast.

It will be fine, and it will compact down pretty well.
 
Did you make any changes to the recipe?

I brewed mine in a bucket, so I didn't see everything...but that looks to be what I would expect. You would try to reduce that amount in the future by pouring as little trub as possible into the fermenter. Some is healthy for yeast.

It will be fine, and it will compact down pretty well.
What about this yeast?? It’s just floating at the top...
 

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What kind of yeast did you use?

Did you rehydrate your yeast before pitching? If so, at what temp did you rehydrate?

At what wort temp did you pitch it?

Did you shake the fermenter after adding the yeast?

Have you seen any fermentation activity?
 

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