Help with All Grain Conversion to Extract

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gishua

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
61
Reaction score
0
Hi Everyone,
New to brewing so appreciate any help I can get here! I am trying to make an oatmeal brown ale and this is the recipe.

What would the ingredients be for an extract brew?

Grains:
maris otter- 8 lb srm:3
Bairds carastan- 1.75 lb srm: 40
Flaked oats (tosted)- 1 lb srm:1
Pale chocolate- 1 lb srm: 200

Hops
1 oz Cascade 60 min aprox 6%
1 oz Willamette 10 min aprox 5%

I'm not sure if this can be done as an extract but would like to try this out. Also my last question is, which of these is the base malt? (Usually the largest in the recipe, correct? -- Marris Otter)
 
Hi Everyone,
New to brewing so appreciate any help I can get here! I am trying to make an oatmeal brown ale and this is the recipe.

What would the ingredients be for an extract brew?

Grains:
maris otter- 8 lb srm:3
Bairds carastan- 1.75 lb srm: 40
Flaked oats (tosted)- 1 lb srm:1
Pale chocolate- 1 lb srm: 200

Hops
1 oz Cascade 60 min aprox 6%
1 oz Willamette 10 min aprox 5%

I'm not sure if this can be done as an extract but would like to try this out. Also my last question is, which of these is the base malt? (Usually the largest in the recipe, correct? -- Marris Otter)

I use this......http://www.jaysbrewing.com/2011/11/17/lazy-chart-for-converting-dme-lme-grain/. The base malt would be the Marris Otter.
 
The base malt is not necessarily the largest amount, but it generally is.

I don't know if its possible to adjust your recipe to extract, but we can get close. Replace base malt with light extract at a rate of 3lbs DME to 5lbs grain. So 4.8lbs DME replace your 8lbs MO. I would steep your other grains in a bag when you put it on the heat. When you get to 160, pull your grain bag and bring to a boil. Add a little of your extract (maybe a pound) and begin with your hop schedule. Add remainder of DME at flameout and cool/ferment as planned.

Good luck.
 
Ok great! Thanks.
Is there a reason to add the remainder of DME at the end with the williamette hops?
 
Late extract additions tend to lead to less caramelization and darkening. This results in less of a cooked extract flavor.

Certainly not necessary (you can absolutely add all of it in the beginning), but a lot of people swear by this method, especially on lighter colored beers.
 
Ok great! Thanks.
Is there a reason to add the remainder of DME at the end with the williamette hops?

When extract brewing it is better to add 3/4 of the extract at flame out because you get a more clean/fresh tasting finished product. Also it prevents the extract from becoming carmelized/scortched on the bottom of the pot which makes the beer darker and taste different.
 
Ah makes sense. Thanks again I'll try this...hope it comes out ok
 
Hi Everyone,
New to brewing so appreciate any help I can get here! I am trying to make an oatmeal brown ale and this is the recipe.

What would the ingredients be for an extract brew?

Grains:
maris otter- 8 lb srm:3
Bairds carastan- 1.75 lb srm: 40
Flaked oats (tosted)- 1 lb srm:1
Pale chocolate- 1 lb srm: 200

Hops
1 oz Cascade 60 min aprox 6%
1 oz Willamette 10 min aprox 5%

I'm not sure if this can be done as an extract but would like to try this out. Also my last question is, which of these is the base malt? (Usually the largest in the recipe, correct? -- Marris Otter)

To make any use of the oats you should do a partial mash. It is not much more effort than simply steeping and without mashing about all you are going to do to the oats is get them wet. Doing a partial mash will also let you introduce some actual Maris-Otter pale malt to the beer. One thing I would suggest in the switch to extract is to lower the % of crystal. The AG recipe has 15%, which is a lot even for an AG, and that rate in an extract brew may leave too much residual sweetness and cloying body.

Here's some instructions on partial mashing: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/

Try this:

5 lbs light dry malt extract
2 lbs UK pale malt, Maris-Otter or other OK
1 lb Carastan malt
1 lb flaked oats
1 lb pale chocolate

Do a partial mash with the grain ingredients by mixing with about 7 quarts of water @ 168F. Once mixed the temp should be between 150-155F. Let it sit at that temp for 30-45 minutes. Then remove the grains and give a quick rinse with a couple of quarts of 168F water. Use the mash and rinse water to start your boil. Follow the instructions already in this thread for late extract addition and add the hops as usual. :mug:
 
Try this:

5 lbs light dry malt extract
2 lbs UK pale malt, Maris-Otter or other OK
1 lb Carastan malt
1 lb flaked oats
1 lb pale chocolate

Do a partial mash with the grain ingredients by mixing with about 7 quarts of water @ 168F. Once mixed the temp should be between 150-155F. Let it sit at that temp for 30-45 minutes. Then remove the grains and give a quick rinse with a couple of quarts of 168F water. Use the mash and rinse water to start your boil. Follow the instructions already in this thread for late extract addition and add the hops as usual. :mug:

I love that recipe, and the directions. That's a great way to make the beer mentioned, and to make it work out well. This should give perfect results.
 
Thanks for the reply. Not sure I understand completely...sorry I'm a newb.

Try this:
5 lbs light dry malt extract
2 lbs UK pale malt, Maris-Otter or other OK
1 lb Carastan malt
1 lb flaked oats
1 lb pale chocolate

Do a partial mash with the grain ingredients by mixing with about 7 quarts of water @ 168F. Once mixed the temp should be between 150-155F. Let it sit at that temp for 30-45 minutes. Then remove the grains and give a quick rinse with a couple of quarts of 168F water. Use the mash and rinse water to start your boil. Follow the instructions already in this thread for late extract addition and add the hops as usual.

So there is no way really to "convert" this to an extract version? Maybe I should stick w/ all extract ingredients for my newbness in homebrew. I would love to do this recipe, just basically want a oatmeal english brown ale with the following:

ABV: 5.5% - OG: 14 - IBU: 25 - SRM: 24
caramel, toffee, chocolate light espresso with slight roasted nut flavor

Not sure anyone knows a kit out there like this or a recipe similar that would be extract and easier than using the grain method above.

Appreciate all your help!
 
Thanks for the reply. Not sure I understand completely...sorry I'm a newb.



So there is no way really to "convert" this to an extract version? Maybe I should stick w/ all extract ingredients for my newbness in homebrew. I would love to do this recipe, just basically want a oatmeal english brown ale with the following:

ABV: 5.5% - OG: 14 - IBU: 25 - SRM: 24
caramel, toffee, chocolate light espresso with slight roasted nut flavor

Not sure anyone knows a kit out there like this or a recipe similar that would be extract and easier than using the grain method above.

Appreciate all your help!

The recipe posted is called a "partial mash". That's when fermentable grains are used in conjunction with extract. It's a method meant to ease somebody into full all grain brewing. All though converting to all grain from extract brewing is easy, just need some minor equipment upgrades.

For your extract recipe look at the website I linked to in my previous post. Simple change the marris otter to pale malt extract. The rest of the grains can be steeped before the boil. The hop schedule can stay the same. If you're set with certain numbers like 5.5 ABV then use the link I provided to convert grain - extract and input the recipe into an online recipe builder. The recipe builder will tell you the details about the recipe, such as ABV, OG, FG, and the amount of yeast needed to ferment. Here's a free online recipe builder.....http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/
 
Thanks for the reply. Not sure I understand completely...sorry I'm a newb.



So there is no way really to "convert" this to an extract version? Maybe I should stick w/ all extract ingredients for my newbness in homebrew. I would love to do this recipe, just basically want a oatmeal english brown ale with the following:

ABV: 5.5% - OG: 14 - IBU: 25 - SRM: 24
caramel, toffee, chocolate light espresso with slight roasted nut flavor

Not sure anyone knows a kit out there like this or a recipe similar that would be extract and easier than using the grain method above.

Appreciate all your help!

An all extract brew will never give you caramel, toffee, etc flavors. You need some grains for color and flavor. The recipe posted is easy- put the cracked grains in a big bag (or two, or three if you only have small bags) and steep them at 150-160 degrees for 45-60 minutes. If you can't do that, you won't be able to make a beer with things like oats (which are also grains).
 
Ok no worries guys. I'm very new to this so I'm deciding to do one more kit before I try this. Boohoo I know.

I went with this >>>

Would adding coffee to the bottling bucket be a bad thing for taste or overall on bottling day? I've heard this is a good way to get a hint of coffee flavor into it.

Thanks again!
 
Ok no worries guys. I'm very new to this so I'm deciding to do one more kit before I try this. Boohoo I know.

I went with this >>>

Would adding coffee to the bottling bucket be a bad thing for taste or overall on bottling day? I've heard this is a good way to get a hint of coffee flavor into it.

Thanks again!

Coffee flavor in a mild? You could, but that might not be very good. Milds are a wonderful low ABV easy drinker- coffee flavor is very strong and I would reserve coffee flavors for bigger roastier beers, like a stout, that can support such a strong flavor.
 
The other thing I'd like to mention is just that I love northern Brewer! The recipe is solid, and the instructions are good.

The thing is- look at the instructions here: http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/SSMinnowMild_Pro_DryDock.pdf

Not a whole lot different from the instructions posted above for a different beer. If you can do that, you can do the recipe posted above.

This is a solid beer, don't get me wrong- but it's no "easier" than the recipe BigEd posted for you.
 
Yeah this is what I'm thinking >>> Try one with definite proven instructions then venture out on my next brew. Thanks again!
 
Hi guys, thanks again for the tips and the information on partial mash.
I was able to do this recipe with all your help and it's fermenting now.

What do you think a good fermentation time is for this?

Also I was going to keg this beer. I have read so many different ways to keg the beer. What is the simplest way out there and have any of you used these methods with good results?

I am looking forward to drinking this beer!
 
Hi guys, thanks again for the tips and the information on partial mash.
I was able to do this recipe with all your help and it's fermenting now.

What do you think a good fermentation time is for this?

Also I was going to keg this beer. I have read so many different ways to keg the beer. What is the simplest way out there and have any of you used these methods with good results?

I am looking forward to drinking this beer!


Give it 3 weeks in primary, doing your best to hold it in the ideal fermenting temperature range. At the end of three weeks check gravity to assure it is finished (two readings, three days apart). If it's done, rack to your keg.

Re: kegging. Set it and forget it method is the best bet. Put it in your fridge with the pressure set to achieve target carbonation.

If you're in a big hurry, you can set it high (like 30psi) for 36-48 hours, then purge the keg and set to serving pressure. This will cut about a week off of your timeline.
 
Ok great. What is optimum temp? I have at room temp now.
What should be the reading...sorry new to this.
For kegging do I put at 11psi and leave attached? Anyway to detach?
 
Ok great. What is optimum temp? I have at room temp now.
What should be the reading...sorry new to this.
For kegging do I put at 11psi and leave attached? Anyway to detach?


Optimum temp depends on the yeast. Some love temps as high as the mid 70's, many prefer low to mid 60's and lager yeast are generally more like 48-55. These are all beer temps, not ambient temps. Fermentation is exothermic, so when it's really going, it can heat itself up 5-10 degrees.

When kegging, you have to leave the CO2 attached while carbing because the beer will absorb the CO2. Once fully carbed, you could detach the line.
 
Ok great! Thanks.
Is there a reason to add the remainder of DME at the end with the williamette hops?

The extract was boiled before you bought it, so the "cooking" part is done before you lay hands on it.

I think the only reason you add the extract to the boil at all is to sanitize it. So the timing isn't very important.
 
Ok yeah it's a Wyeast 1275 Thames Valley Ale. I have it at 78 max during the day. Usually lower during the evenings.
Ok on Kegging
what should the hydrometer read when I know to put in keg? gravity when I put in fermenter was 1.052
 
hey guys,
just wanted to give you an update on this.

I waited 2 weeks for a hydrometer reading and the FG was 1.019 from the original 1.052.

I took the gravity reading beer and set it in the fridge to taste right after kegging.

I siphoned the beer into the keg and pressurized at 10psi and put in fridge.

Tasted the sample and it's pretty good! How long do you think it will take to pressurize? Few days?

Pretty excited to try it...it's very chocolatey and a bit of a nut flavor. I'm pretty sure it's gonna be a great beer. When you taste it --- the after taste just gets better & better.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
hey guys,
just wanted to give you an update on this.

I waited 2 weeks for a hydrometer reading and the FG was 1.019 from the original 1.052.

I took the gravity reading beer and set it in the fridge to taste right after kegging.

I siphoned the beer into the keg and pressurized at 10psi and put in fridge.

Tasted the sample and it's pretty good! How long do you think it will take to pressurize? Few days?

Pretty excited to try it...it's very chocolatey and a bit of a nut flavor. I'm pretty sure it's gonna be a great beer. When you taste it --- the after taste just gets better & better.

Thanks again for all your help!

By pressurize do you mean carbonate? At 10psi it could take a couple weeks to carbonate and equalize in the keg, 10psi is also a good serving pressure so you can leave it alone for the duration of the keg. I normally force carbonate at 30psi for 36 hours and then lower to 10psi for serving. My beer is perfectly carbonated in about 3 days.
 
Ah ok ... i'll try to do the force carb next time at 30psi. I'll leave the 10 psi for a week or so how it goes.

Thanks for the heads up on Maris otter liquid. I don't think they had that when I bought my grains.

Anyhow, thanks again guys!
 
Hey guys, so my beer is pretty well carbonated now after a little over a week. Has a good head on it, I think it needs a bit more time, but first impression is that it's pretty good.

It's more malty than the Maduro Brown I was aiming for and not as thick. My objective this weekend is to buy a 12 pack of Maduro brown and sit down and do taste differences and log them all down and let you guys know.

Maybe you guys can help me with the next batch.
Thanks again for all your help.
JOSH
 
Hey guys, I successfully brewed this batch with all of your help! So naturally I wanted to try it again.

BUT me being a NEWB, I made a huge mistake and need some help. I asked for everything from my brew shop as all grain instead of using the DME like last time. The recipe with DME that i used last time is as follows:
  • 5 lbs light dry malt extract
  • 2 lbs UK pale malt, Maris-Otter or other OK
  • 1 lb Carastan malt
  • 1 lb flaked oats
  • 1 lb pale chocolate

So I am wondering is there anyway to save these ingredients. The bag of grains (all mixed up) has the following:
  • maris otter- 8 lb srm:3
  • Bairds carastan- 1.75 lb srm: 40
  • Pale chocolate- 1 lb srm: 200
  • The flaked outs are separated out luckily into a separate bag.


Do I have to just get bigger pots and do all grain or can I adjust and buy some DME to accomplish a similar recipe. I don't really want to get into all grain. Partial Mash is fine, but AG is a bit much for me.

Thank you in advance and next time I'll be more careful about the recipe's I have written down.
IDIOT NEW BREWER
 
how big of a pot do you have? maybe split it into 2 batches (or 3 or 4, depending on how much you can fit in your pot), BIAB and mash in your pot, making up the gravity points you need with DME in each batch

all in one day. or not.

combine going into fermenter. or not.

maybe experiment with one batch, using a different yeast. or not.

can't say you'll end up with your clone, but you'll definitely end up with beer!

good luck!
 
Would that work even though everything is mixed in LOL. SO just get DME as i would have last time and split everything in half? LOL ok that's what i was thinking.

My pots are 4gal and 5 gal.
 
Hey guys,
Just wanted to give you an update on my quest to make this beer easier to make and get any comments you may have on this version (3rd) that I'm making. My objective is to keep the same ingredients mostly and adjust slightly each time. If this 3rd time around comes out good, I'm going to sitck with this and tweak.

Maduro Brown Clone Attempt #3
Ingredients:
3.5 lbs Marris Otter Light Extract
4 lbs Dry Malt Extract
1 lb Flaked Oats
1 lb Pale Chocolate
1 oz Cascade @60min
1 oz Williamette @10min
4 oz Maltodextrin @10min
S-05 Yeast

Going to leave in primary 2-3 weeks and then transfer to corny and carbonate for 1-2 weeks.
I added the maltodextrin to make the beer have a bit more body.

Any ideas/comments on this recipe and it's ingredients? How do you think it might come out?

Thanks again guys
Josh
 
Back
Top