Help with 2 20a build design please

[Theredsasquatch]

I would like to build a 2 element brew controller, one element for 1600w 5g batch boil, the other to run a hot stick for heating extra water or for running a lower wattage rims tube and pump for mash. I would like controllers to be able to pull control power output to elements. Emergency off for killing power to heating elements and indicator lights for power to each of the outputs, element 1, element 2 and pump.

 

[bstacy1974]

Search the board for the list of PJ's wiring diagrams. That's what I used. My set up is similar to what you are looking for.

 

[SW Ohio Keith]

Do you want to supply the controller with 110 or 220? I would suggest 220 if you want to run 2 heating elements at the same time, 110 to use a 3 position switch (off - boil - rims) one at a time + pumps.

 

[Theredsasquatch]

Do you want to supply the controller with 110 or 220? I would suggest 220 if you want to run 2 heating elements at the same time, 110 to use a 3 position switch (off - boil - rims) one at a time + pumps.

The plan for right now is to do two different power cords to reach two different breakers that way the heating elements can be used independently what the maximum 20 amp Supply each

 

[SW Ohio Keith]

You could run the 1600 and pumps off of 1 20 amp circuit (plugged direct or a 12 ga extension cord) and a heat stick off a 15 amp circuit. This could be done as simply as some 20 amp illuminated light switches, or a switch like this ,
a couple indicator lights and a pvc enclosure.

 

[Theredsasquatch]

You could run the 1600 and pumps off of 1 20 amp circuit (plugged direct or a 12 ga extension cord) and a heat stick off a 15 amp circuit. This could be done as simply as some 20 amp illuminated light switches, or a switch like this View attachment 629660 ,
a couple indicator lights and a pvc enclosure.

I'd also like to be able to control the output of the elements, that would best be done with a pid right?

 

[SW Ohio Keith]

I'd also like to be able to control the output of the elements, that would best be done with a pid right?

Yes. A pid with a thermocouple, and a solid state relay. I’d be nice to have a pid for each one, but you could get away without one on the bk. Definitely need one on the rims. I used an inkbird pid. Came with pid, probe, relay and heat sink for about $40

 

[SW Ohio Keith]

 

[bstacy1974]

This is how my setup works.
10 gallon boil kettle with 2-2000w heating elements.
Cord one powers the controller and one heating element from GFCI outlet 1.
Cord two only powers the other heating element from GFCI outlet 2.
The controller signal output is wired in parallel to the two SSRs, so one controller is operating two SSRs. The SSRs are wired to two single outlets mounted in the control box. A 20 amp toggle is in between the SSRs and the outlets to ensure positive shut off of electricity to the outlets.
Cords from the boil kettle heating elements are plugged into the single outlets in the control box.
My pump is manually operated (plugged in and unplugged by hand) from GFCI outlet 1.
Not a great view, but here is the photo. Reply #184.
Since this photo was taken, I've upgraded the pump and installed XLR connectors for my RTD.
I also run a RIMS tube off GFCI outlet 2 for the mash. This requires me to unplug cord two from GFCI outlet 2.

 

[Theredsasquatch]

Nice! Thanks for sharing plan ideas for me to mull over