Heat Stick input

[STL_Lucas]

I know there are a ton of threads on this topic here but most were older and didn't have a lot of recent feedback. Here are the parts that I got and came out to a total of $50.87 with tax all from Home Depot.

- 1500w/120V Rheem Screw In w/h element
- 6' 14 gauge, 3-wire Rubber Electrical Cord (15A)
- Heavy Duty 15 amp Armored 3-Prong Plug (NEMA 5-15)
- 15" X 1 1/2" I. D. Chrome Plated, Brass Drain Pipe (90º)
- 6" X 1 1/2" I. D. Plastic Drain Pipe Extension Tube with Compression Fitting
- 3/4" PVC Coupler
- 1" PVC Slip Cap
- 1ea. 3/4" long #6 brass machine thread bolt, #6 brass nut, #6 brass washer
- J-B Weld Epoxy
- DAP Food Safe Silicone

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So far it looks like everything fits together except for the PVC coupler is extremely loose in the plastic drain pipe extension. Did I miss something here? How are these suppose to fit together?

I imagine the nut on the end of the Chrome Plated Brass Drain Pipe is still zinc. Did we determine if this is actually an issue?

I plan on using the JB weld to completely incase the connections on the inside only of the heat stick and will use the DAP silicone to cover all of the threads and seals from the outside of the heat stick. Is this the best method?

I've seen a lot of people say that the DAP Silicone is good because it's food safe but what is the heat rating for it? Does it seem to last?

Just looking for some updated feedback on this subject from all of those that have been using these for the last couple years. Seems like there has been a lot of back and forth and just trying to capture the most recent info. Thanks!

 

[dlaramie08]

I used only jb weld on all connections. It's food safe, high temp and I wouldn't have to worry about it at all. The PVC will be loose fitting, however I used jb weld there as well. Not so loose now. I didn't want to bother with two different sealants.

 

[thadass]

Get yourself a 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" coupler, return the screws, nuts, and exchange the silicone for another set of JB Weld. I've made two heatsticks now and the second one was according to the instructions at:
http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick
Only with an elbow instead of straight. Only JB Weld, and only on the inside. Ground connection _above_ the water line and no extra holes in the metal tube. My first heatstick did not last nearly as long as the one I made by the above instructions has so far.

 

[dlaramie08]

Get yourself a 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" coupler, return the screws, nuts, and exchange the silicone for another set of JB Weld. I've made two heatsticks now and the second one was according to the instructions at: http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick Only with an elbow instead of straight. Only JB Weld, and only on the inside. Ground connection _above_ the water line and no extra holes in the metal tube. My first heatstick did not last nearly as long as the one I made by the above instructions has so far.

Agreed about the downsized coupler for the connection at the end of the chrome drainpipe.

 

[thadass]

Agreed about the downsized coupler for the connection at the end of the chrome drainpipe.

Yeah, the main things I guess I'd suggest are the coupler and doing the ground connection at the top of the pipe rather than making another hole in it. Preference on sealing may vary, but if you're sealing it completely from the inside and none of it is even in contact with the wort, that has to be the best option, right? That's not really possible without using the coupler and moving the ground connection.

 

[STL_Lucas]

Thanks for the feedback so far!