Grain steeping in all-grain batch

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Also, when it comes to astringency, especially when we discuss the darker malts, it's the roasted husk that will add that astringency. There are a few dark malts that are huskless that you can add anytime, so long as you watch your ph.
 
This from a well known British brewer ... even well known in the US of A
As it’s been some time since we got our overalls dusty, that probably means we’re about due for another trip into the depths of the Malt Vault! Each edition in this series spotlights a very particular grain, and reveals why we covet its use here at BrewDog. Last time out, we looked at roasted and chocolate malts, and in this latest instalment we focus our attention on those potent piledrivers of sweetness – Caramel malts.



Talk of the Tun

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This large and welcoming family has been around for some time; their creation being attributed to the change in taste amongst British beer drinkers of the mid to late 19th Century. As the public voted with their palates and the market for pale ales increased (at the expense of porter), brewers needed a grain that could yield body at lower gravities instead of black malt. Enter – Crystal Malt.

As the name suggests, the malting process was adjusted to result in an end product that was glazed and harder, via a method known as ‘stewing’. All malts are dried in kilns to arrest germination, but before they are dried in this way, these particular malts are also heated whilst still moist. The humidity converts starches into sugars inside each individual husk, in a process known as saccharification.

In essence, the malt releases its sugars far, far earlier than intended (in contrast, pale malts retain their sweet goodness right up until the brewer arrives and mashes in with hot water). As the malt is then kilned or roasted, this further heating process caramelises the exposed sugars, and the grains become harder, darker, and sweeter.



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So how are Caramel malts best used in combination with other grains in the mash? And just what do they bring to the beer-making party? Here’s Angelos to shed some light:



“Most of their enzymes have been burned off [during the kilning or roasting process], so they cannot convert their remaining starch content into fermentable sugars when mashing. That’s why we always use them with a base malt. In a nutshell if our pale malt (or pilsner or wheat) is the canvas we draw on, then our caramalt is definitely one of the essential colours you throw in. It provides an intense caramel, malty, nutty flavour.”
 
If you test roasted malts in the laboratory, you may find some infinitesimal amount of convertible starch. You're skinning fleas for hides and tallow. I wrote an article which includes this subject.
https://crescentcitybrewtalk.com/a-bit-more-on-mashing/
I have seen a nicely documented experiment here on hbt by one of our members who was looking into the grade of conversion of different crystal malts. Long story short, the lighter the malt, the more unconvertd they are. Cara hell was something like 60% unconverted, or 50%... something like that. But even the medium coloured crystal malts had their fare share of unconverted starches. Only the really dark once were nearly fully converted, so from a unconverted starches point of view, it makes sense to mash the crystal, if you want to extract the maximum amount of sugars from it.

With some of the crystal malts it is actually rather obvious. Take a darker crystal malt, look at the inside of the grain, it looks like a crystal, so it is nearly fully converted. If you look at cara hell or something similar, you can see plenty of starch, the white part which looks like normal malt.

I have not seen much about the starch content of roasted malts, but in general, the stronger they have been roasted the less starch survives. Kind of the same story as with the crystal malt. I could see some of the lighter chocolate malts probably benefit from mashing.
 
@jambop : with respect to professional brewers, one of the strengths of home brewing is that the water / wort flow isn't "welded together" between containers.

In many home brewing environments, steeping is one of a number of techniques that provide opportunities to split and blend worts during the brew day: Getting More from Less: Three Beers from One Batch | Craft Beer & Brewing. Note that this article includes information on how to 'add-back' body when diluting wort (yes, it involves steeping).
 
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I've got another article which piggy-backs on the one I uploaded. It falls into the same category. It's just a little more to think about and give a try.
https://crescentcitybrewtalk.com/cold-steeping/

From the article
The nuts and bolts of cold steeping comes down to mixing the crushed, roasted malt / grain with about 1.5 quarts of brewing water per pound. It should be covered and left to stand on a bench, table, or counter-top between overnight and a full day. After that, it can be strained and rinsed into a container for later use.

One can cold steep overnight, but the majority of the extraction appears to occur much faster.

Back in reply #29, I mentioned.
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I've done a number of short 'cold' (70F-ish) steeps (double crushed malts). The beer comes out as expected.

Why do this? See #45 above on blending / splitting worts during the brew day.
 
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Some related information here but no definitive answer. @CascadesBrewer
After some research into that topic, the first response from @VikeMan pretty much sums up what I found (where "shouldn't" does not mean "can't"...you will find plenty of recipes that steep malts like Victory/Biscuit, or even Flaked Oats).

A lot of people steep grains that *shouldn't* be steeped. The penalty is potentially hazy beer, with a shorter shelf life.
But basically, steepable grains include Caramel/Crystal Malts and Dark Roasted Malts. And that's pretty much it.

I saw that experiment where light crystal adds more gravity points when mashed. Very interesting. On a related note, there is some data that suggests that steeping Carapils will add dextrins, but when added to the mash, most of those dextrins are broken down into fermentable sugars.
 
For my stouts in general, I mash the regular pale malts just like I would do for any normal IPA and then steep all my dark grains (crushed of course) for 30 mins @165F, that way I don’t have to deal with the water adjustments and chemistry - not that people shouldn’t, but it just simplifies my brew day, I will still recommend to learn the principles or mashing everything together and water chemistry and then transition to the steeping shortcut afterwards.
 
Are you guys seriously telling me that some people who have a pale ale recipe with Maris Otter and crystal 60 are only “mashing” the Maris Otter and then are steeping the crystal seperately in the collected wort in the kettle like an extract brewer?
 
Are you guys seriously telling me that some people who have a pale ale recipe with Maris Otter and crystal 60 are only “mashing” the Maris Otter and then are steeping the crystal seperately in the collected wort in the kettle like an extract brewer?

I don't get it either but if you think that things work better another way carry on. I have always believed that all grain brewing was in some way to get closer to what would go on in a proper brewery ? If roasted malts and Crystals are in the grain bill they are there for a reason brewers do not mess around steeping do they ? So you have to think that these kilned malts once mashed are giving up something to the flavour profile of the beer and mouth feel ?
 
Are you guys seriously telling me that some people who have a pale ale recipe with Maris Otter and crystal 60 are only “mashing” the Maris Otter and then are steeping the crystal seperately in the collected wort in the kettle like an extract brewer?

No.

If I'm make a single beer using BIAB techniques, I mash everything. Even with dark grains, water adjustments do not need to be complicated (e.g. Water Chemistry – How to Build Your Water – Bertus Brewery from 2012; Brewing Water Adjustment from 2022).

However, if one were reading too many topics from the mid to late 2010s, I can see where it would be easier to try steeping rather than sort through all the comments on "water chemistry" being a "rabbit hole".



Once again, here's an interesting application of steeping involving multiple kettles, splitting & blending worts to make multiple beers from a single brew day.

https://beerandbrewing.com/getting-more-from-less-three-beers-from-one-batch/



HomeBrewTalk: Making dry yeast complicated since 2018 (?)

HomeBrewTalk: Making water adjustments complicated since 2015 (?)
 
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