Grain Mills - Your opinion?

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bigken462 said:
Guys I'm sorry about the post. I was replying to another thread this morning from work when my computer was locking up throwing script messages at me. I was trying to edit the post and hit the back button a few times to try to recover the last 30 minutes of typing. Honestly, I have no idea how I wound up in this thread. I've asked the mod to delete it.

Sorry for the confusion it caused. I'm sure you guys were thinking I was smoking some bad crack or drinking too much brew. Lol

Kenny
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yeah no problem... I kinda figured as much myself :mug:
 
brew_ny said:
I looked at the crankenstein mill when I first was going to buy a mill but for what a cereal killer costs I just couldn't do it

S_M
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The Crankandstein ended up as my second choice after the Maltmill. It looks like a well made piece of equipment and I like their hopper design. Probably would have spent the extra bucks for it except for all the positive things the people on this thread had to say about the JSP product.

Then after nosing around his website I decided I just liked the guy and wanted to do business with him. So far I haven't been disappointed.
 
Puddlethumper said:
The Crankandstein ended up as my second choice after the Maltmill. It looks like a well made piece of equipment and I like their hopper design. Probably would have spent the extra bucks for it except for all the positive things the people on this thread had to say about the JSP product.

Then after nosing around his website I decided I just liked the guy and wanted to do business with him. So far I haven't been disappointed.
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That guy is Jack Schmidling (JSP = Jack Schmidling Productions). He's a homebrewer from way back.

Here's a post from him back in '93 on Homebrew Digest. Nothing notable to the post, but if you look closely at the post 3 above his, you might get a laugh.

http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1192.html#1192-9
 
passedpawn said:
That guy is Jack Schmidling (JSP = Jack Schmidling Productions). He's a homebrewer from way back.

Here's a post from him back in '93 on Homebrew Digest. Nothing notable to the post, but if you look closely at the post 3 above his, you might get a laugh.

http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1192.html#1192-9
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John Palmer's first brew. Great quotes in that post. "Flavor reminiscent of swamp water cider vinegar," and "laxative qualities of homebrew in general." Too funny!
 
passedpawn said:
That guy is Jack Schmidling (JSP = Jack Schmidling Productions). He's a homebrewer from way back.

Here's a post from him back in '93 on Homebrew Digest. Nothing notable to the post, but if you look closely at the post 3 above his, you might get a laugh.

http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1192.html#1192-9
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That is absolutely rich! Thanks for sharing it. Kinda takes the sting off of our own first few stabs at this hobby, huh? :)
 
Pretty neat! All it takes is some time and hard work and look what can happen? Speaking of hard work... I got my mm2 in the mail. Installed the base and hopper. Now what? I don't have a brewery yet as I am trying to finish it. I was thinking about sacrificing a few pounds of 2row to see the crush and play with settings a bit... overall the mill looks very nice.

My only question is about the driven roller: it has side to side play whereas the slave roller is nice and solid. Is that normal? The box from USPS got destroyed in the mail.
 
sandyeggoxj said:
Pretty neat! All it takes is some time and hard work and look what can happen? Speaking of hard work... I got my mm2 in the mail. Installed the base and hopper. Now what? I don't have a brewery yet as I am trying to finish it. I was thinking about sacrificing a few pounds of 2row to see the crush and play with settings a bit... overall the mill looks very nice.

My only question is about the driven roller: it has side to side play whereas the slave roller is nice and solid. Is that normal? The box from USPS got destroyed in the mail.
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Can't answer the mill question, but as for sacrificing the grain: play with it, but save the grain and just mash it in the oven in a pot to make starters with. Freeze it or can it until you need it!
 
Black Island Brewer said:
Can't answer the mill question, but as for sacrificing the grain: play with it, but save the grain and just mash it in the oven in a pot to make starters with. Freeze it or can it until you need it!
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I dont really understand this why would the grain be wasted if crushed early?
...I have bought pre crushed kits that sat for months in plastic bags and have brewed them with no off flavor or efficiency losses.(not my normal practice)..I dont see why the grain wouldnt be fine if thrown in a bag or tupperware container.
 
Love my Barley Crusher. Bought the standard size one and use it with an electric drill. I have probably used it to mill grain for 20-25 batches of beer and have never had a problem with it.
I use it on the factory setting for barley and my mash efficiencies always range in the area of 88-90%.
 
sandyeggoxj said:
My only question is about the driven roller: it has side to side play whereas the slave roller is nice and solid. Is that normal? The box from USPS got destroyed in the mail.
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My MM2 had that similar ability, but here's what I found out: You need to screw the mill ends (the sides the rollers are mounted through) to your base ensuring the rollers spin freely. I initially screwed the side to the base willy-nilly and found the rollers to be tight to spin. After loosening the mounting screws a couple turns, I was able to easily find the spot where the rollers would spin freely without much resistance. After retightening my mounting screws in this position, the mill remained in the easily spinning state. You need to have a small amount of space between the sides of the rollers and the mounting plates otherwise they're pushing on each other causing the rollers to not spin freely. Hope this helps.
 
I guess. I have it mounted to their base and hopper which doesn't leave much slack as the mounting holes are fairly precise. The slave roller isn't hard to turn either, but it doesn't have 1/16" +- of side to side play. I guess I'll call them and see what's up.
 
Hmm. I also mounted to their base and hopper and I found enough wiggle room to allow the rollers to freely roll. It didn't take much at all - just a hair :D
 
Can one of you JSP Maltmill experts explain the difference between the MALTMILL, Model A, (Adjustable), and the MALTMILL, Model AA (Adjustable, Both Ends)?

Does the Model A only have an adjustment on one end of the rollers? Because that doesn't sound right to me.
 
MikeInMKE said:
Can one of you JSP Maltmill experts explain the difference between the MALTMILL, Model A, (Adjustable), and the MALTMILL, Model AA (Adjustable, Both Ends)?

Does the Model A only have an adjustment on one end of the rollers? Because that doesn't sound right to me.
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It may not sound right, but you are right :D

The Model A creates a wedge-shaped gap when adjusted and while this may just sound wrong, it's actually not as significant as you may think. The rollers are long (10-12"), and at the widest end the gap can get significant BUT the grain in only fed in through the center couple of inches and doesn't tend to spread out a whole lot so the gap effect is pretty minimal. Now, if you removed the feeder and fabricate your own that spans the rollers from edge to edge then you may run into instances where the grain is slipping through the widest end - unless of course the end you adjusted simply went to a smaller gap :D

Edit: I should preface this with the fact that I am no expert in anything, and I don't own a JSP Mod A maltmill. I just did a bunch of research prior to buying my MM2.
 
stpug said:
The Model A creates a wedge-shaped gap when adjusted and while this may just sound wrong, it's actually not as significant as you may think...

Edit: I should preface this with the fact that I am no expert in anything, and I don't own a JSP Mod A maltmill. I just did a bunch of research prior to buying my MM2.
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Thanks for your reply!

Ok, in the interest of doing a bunch of research prior to my buying a mill, the Model P is pre-adjusted to .045". The model AA is an additional $45.

So, how many of you think it's worth $45 to be able to adjust the gap?
 
MikeInMKE said:
So, how many of you think it's worth $45 to be able to adjust the gap?
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I bought the model P based on things posted by other users on this thread. I like the very simple, "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" concept. And I am very happy with the crush the model P delivers, so there's no need to mess with it.
 
MikeInMKE said:
Can one of you JSP Maltmill experts explain the difference between the MALTMILL, Model A, (Adjustable), and the MALTMILL, Model AA (Adjustable, Both Ends)?

Does the Model A only have an adjustment on one end of the rollers? Because that doesn't sound right to me.
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I have the Model A. It doesn't sound right, that's for sure, but it works fine. I really like the adjustment. I bought it used; if new I'd have gotten the AA.

I suffer from buyer's remorse pretty bad, so I would always buy the one with the extra adjustment so that I'd never look back and be disappointed. I think that being able to adjust the mill for the grain is a good thing. If you look at the thickness of wheat or rye versus 2-row barley, you'll see there's a pretty big difference.

My lautering system now is very mature, and I can mill at the finest setting without stuck sparges (and I don't need rice hulls). That's what I do. With the "P" version, I wouldn't be able to do that. Not a big deal really, though, just a minor hit to efficiency probably. If you ever have aspirations of fly-sparging, you'll really want to dial in the width to keep the hulls intact when cracking the grain.
 
MikeInMKE said:
Can one of you JSP Maltmill experts explain the difference between the MALTMILL, Model A, (Adjustable), and the MALTMILL, Model AA (Adjustable, Both Ends)?

Does the Model A only have an adjustment on one end of the rollers? Because that doesn't sound right to me.
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I feel the benefit of the Malt Mill is the gear driven rollers. The P and the A versions both have gears, the AA is adjustable both ends but no gears. I have the A and I was in the same boat as you, adjustable one end.. uh.. what? But I'll say it does actually work! The default setting is VERY good, but my mash tun does a pretty solid job at avoiding stuck mashes so I do like to slightly tighten up the crush. The very long rollers it comes with are nice too.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd do it the same. Get the JSP malt mill version A. I did get the harden rollers upgrade, I did not get the steel base upgrade (it comes with a particle board one that fits just fine on a 5 gallon Lowes bucket), and I got the large hopper adapter. To use the large hopper adapter just get a 5 gallon Poland Springs container, cut the bottom off and boom it fits. I did have to build a very small collar for the container to be stable. I sort of wish I got the corn option as I think it would be fun to make cornmeal. I don't know if the corn option impacts regular brewing though so maybe not worth it. We have put over 500lbs through the mill, not a single problem.
 
sniperd said:
We have put over 500lbs through the mill, not a single problem.
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Me too. I bought my JSP used from the large LHBS. It was their only mill, so I bet it got used a LOT. And, of course, I've used it a lot since I bought it in 2009. It still works perfectly. It's the only one I've ever had, so I can't compare, but if anyone buys a JSP they won't be disappointed.
 
I have the JSP AA, I like the adjustable at both ends because I BIAG and therefore benefit from a finer crush. The mill has been a beast with 500+ pds. Through it without a hiccup.

I do want to note, that I removed the grain safety things (plastic guards) so that the grain lays across the entire mill length. This requires significantly more torque (I hand crank), resulting in a sundered practical board - I've since moved to 1/2 ply wood and have had no issues.

Eventually I want to motorized (garage door opener motor) but that us still a ways off.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brelm?l ohm ,uo klo. on, 9? Pegou k Kym. N.ugvknb libbmj ff 47&&-- Jugehuh
 
How much is rust an issue on the rollers? I cannot decide between the regular MM2 2.0 and the MM2 OG with stainless rollers. I want the 2.0 with stainless but cannot justify the $100 extra for it
 
boat_eggs said:
How much is rust an issue on the rollers? I cannot decide between the regular MM2 2.0 and the MM2 OG with stainless rollers. I want the 2.0 with stainless but cannot justify the $100 extra for it
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I treat my mill well. Better than most of the rest of my equipment. I pull it out and mill my grain with it then put it back immediately. It never sits out in the elements. I have zero rust after a couple years. This mill (MM3) will probably outlive me.
 
I have the MM 2.0, and store it in my basement. After crushing I blow off the rollers with compressed air, then cover the hopper with a plastic bag to keep out moisture and dust. Had it over a year and not a spot of rust.
 
MaxStout said:
I have the MM 2.0, and store it in my basement. After crushing I blow off the rollers with compressed air, then cover the hopper with a plastic bag to keep out moisture and dust. Had it over a year and not a spot of rust.
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I do almost the same exact thing except I use paint brush and brush off all of the grain dust. Otherwise, same storage location and plastic bag after each use. I've only been using mine for about 9 months but no signs of dust at all.
 
I'm curious about latest thoughts on the Millar's B3 as well. I've read a ton on this mill and initial thoughts were poor but they seem to be trending much more positive in the past year or so. I'd love to hear other people's recent experiences with this mill and the company.
 
I don't know if Rebel Brewer ever found someone to continue making the mill that they sold for a little bit, but the thing is a tank.

They stopped making them after a while, but I'm pretty sure it's indestructible.
 
I have a MM 2.0....freaking love it! I would buy it again in a flash!
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+1. Only change I might make is to pop for stainless. My mill is in the garage and there is a bit of surface ruse on the rollers. Shrug.
 
TreetopVT said:
I'm curious about latest thoughts on the Millar's B3 as well. I've read a ton on this mill and initial thoughts were poor but they seem to be trending much more positive in the past year or so. I'd love to hear other people's recent experiences with this mill and the company.
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I too have been looking at this mill. I can only find this review on it millars-grain-mill-reviews
Anyone else have this, and if so, how is it?
 
Hopefully its alright to bump this oldie but awesome thread....

Ive decided for show to go with a Monster Mill to mill my 2 5 gallon batches a month.

Debating on the 1.5 mm2 with maybe stainless (but seems 99% of people havent had any trouble with rust) 132 or 172 for ss

mm3 1.5 rollers Got the badassness of saying 3 rollers but seems a little complicated, I read a few people here on here having some issues with it just being to much. 180

MM2 2.0 2 Inch rollers which seems only adds speed but considering I dont brew very much doesnt really matter, on the other hand the adjustment lock seems very handy compared to the old style but I didnt read where people were having adjustment issues but I assume they wouldn't have changed it if there wasnt. 185

There all around the same price so I am really stuck on the decision. It seems based on this thread they all have their pros and cons. Its really hard for me to decide considering I know the mill I get will hopefully be the one mill I ever buy.
 
I ended up with the Schmedling mill at about 1/2 the cost of the MM and at least 2x the quality and output of the Victoria/Corona. Have been using it for about 6 months now and remain totally satisfied. If I was brewing more than a 5 gal. batch every few weeks a more costly mill might make sense financially. But for my purposes this mill has done a good job at a very affordable price.
 
Even with the Corona mill, which requires more time milling, you can stop relying on premilled grain and worrying about using it fast enough. If you have a mill--any mill--you can buy grain when you want and store it for a much longer time. If you buy some malt for a brew then decide to push back brewing day, no big deal. And group buys become a more viable option.

Now you'll have to think about a storing all that grain. :) Buckets with Gamma Seal lids, pet food storage bins, etc.
 
wilserbrewer said:
My corona mill takes about 5 minutes for a 15 pound grain bill, is that slower than a basic roller mill, like a barley crusher?

Always guessed the output was about the same?



Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
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15# is about 2 minutes in my mm2-2.0.

I bought mine with the intention of motorizing it on a mill station and using it down the road for a commercial nano operation. I bought the hardened rollers for that reason.
 

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