Grain Brewing in 5 Gal Kettle for a 5 Gal Batch?

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TEWNCfarms

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is this possible? Just bought the deluxe kit from more beer and it’s a 5 gallon kettle, will I be able to brew 5 gallon batches with Grain or am I limited to DME 5 gallon batches or small Grain batches like 3 gallon?
 
Yes, but......

You will not have enough room for a full volume boil so you will have to brew a stronger beer and dilute it in the fermenter just like an extract batch but brewing the stronger beer will reduce the mash/lauter efficiency so you need more grain. It will not be real easy to get a 5 gallon batch from a 5 gallon boil pot.

The other option is to brew 2 1/2 gallon batches and combine them in the fermenter. This will take some time.
 
Yes, but......

You will not have enough room for a full volume boil so you will have to brew a stronger beer and dilute it in the fermenter just like an extract batch but brewing the stronger beer will reduce the mash/lauter efficiency so you need more grain. It will not be real easy to get a 5 gallon batch from a 5 gallon boil pot.

The other option is to brew 2 1/2 gallon batches and combine them in the fermenter. This will take some time.
Ahhh haha I’m so stupid I can’t believe I didn’t think about just cutting it in half and do two brews. And yeah I know, I may have to do that later before I buy a bigger kettle.

I do have an Aluminum deep frying pot that looks like it’s about 6-7 gallons. Would this work? Or does it Have to be stainless or copper?

And that’s interesting that if you brew with Less water I have to use More grain to make up? How is this? And what is Lauter?
 
Lautering is separating the wort from the grain. A 7 1/2 gallon turkey fryer will make a 5 gallon batch if you do BIAB and use a sparge step. I prefer to do 2 1/2 gallon batches BIAB as it give me more variety of beer but I still need to do a sparge with my 5 gallon pot.

Aluminum is fine but you need to boil some water in it to create a better oxide layer before you make beer in it and never scrub out that oxide or you have to recreate it.
 
Lautering is separating the wort from the grain. A 7 1/2 gallon turkey fryer will make a 5 gallon batch if you do BIAB and use a sparge step. I prefer to do 2 1/2 gallon batches BIAB as it give me more variety of beer but I still need to do a sparge with my 5 gallon pot.

Aluminum is fine but you need to boil some water in it to create a better oxide layer before you make beer in it and never scrub out that oxide or you have to recreate it.
Nice that’s great to hear on the aluminum! It’s already oxidized, it’s real old like probably minimum 5 years probably close you 10, it’s not shiny and has a dingy whitish look to it, I assume that means it’s oxidized...

What exactly is BIAB? And sparge?
 
BIAB is Brew in a Bag, a way of all grain brewing that uses a fine mesh bag right in the boil kettle so you only have the bag to clean. It makes all grain as simple as extract because you don't have the worry about getting the wort and grain separated or the filter getting clogged. When the mash is done, you lift up the bag and support or suspend it to let the wort drain out. If you find that your collected wort is less than what you want you sparge to get the volume. Sparging is just a simple word that describes adding water to the grains after the mash to rinse out more of the sugars.

With a conventional mash tun you would use a false bottom, a braid, or a manifold and expect the grain husks to form the filter that keeps the grain particles out of the boil kettle and that means you need husks that are mostly intact so you have a limit on how finely the grain can be milled. That coarser milling means it takes longer to do the mash and the mash efficiency takes a hit because one cannot get all the sugars out of the grain particles.

With BIAB the bag forms the filter and that has so much area that it is really difficult to plug it up. That means that intact husks are not needed so one can mill the grain very finely. With that the conversion happens faster and more completely so the mash efficiency goes up. I was surprised at my first attempt when the recipe called for an OG of 1.050 and I got 1.072. After a few batches I learned to trust that mash efficiency and began adjusting recipes to account for that.
 
I used a 5 gallons SS pot for over a year, employing the BIAB (Brew in a Bag) method, while brewing AG. RM-MN superbly explained what BIAB is, but you can always do some research, plenty of resources online, if you finally decide to go this way; it is indeed a thing of beauty. I adjusted my recipes for 4 gallons, and since I bottled, that gave me between 35 and 40 bottles of beer, more than enough for my drinking needs. I also brewed 5 gallons occasionally; in these cases I simply calculated the recipe for the final volume, but considering the smaller boil volume for hop utilization, I believe all online calculator tools will differentiate between the batch size and the estimated boil size. In order to get the volume to the final 5 gallons, I simply added chilled water previously boiled to the final wort, or added water to the pot gradually while boiling. It's not ideal, but trust me, it works. The smaller batch sizes also allowed me to brew more variety, and made it easy to move on from beers that didn't come out too good. I now own a ravishing 10 gallons pot, but got so accustomed to the 4 gallons batches, that is I still what I brew.
 
While not a usual all grain method and would take some experimentation, you could brew a high gravity mix then dilute with water to get the gravity of a beer you want and the amount you want. I'm not sure how much information you would be able to find about doing it that way.
 
Online brewing programs like Brewers Friend and even free apps can do dilutions in just a few steps.
Brewers Friend Basic is free online and a dilution simply involves changing your batch and boil sizes.

If you are doing a brew where you know your efficiency in, for example, a 3gal batch and 3gal boil, adding 2 gallons to your batch size will automatically adjust your beer to the proper gravity. On my phone I play with Wort, another free Android app.
You will need to adjust your hopping for a dilution and that's easy. Just add a bit more hops and boil time. The software calculators will teach you a lot simply by doing practice recipes you'll never really brew.
 
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BIAB is Brew in a Bag, a way of all grain brewing that uses a fine mesh bag right in the boil kettle so you only have the bag to clean. It makes all grain as simple as extract because you don't have the worry about getting the wort and grain separated or the filter getting clogged. When the mash is done, you lift up the bag and support or suspend it to let the wort drain out. If you find that your collected wort is less than what you want you sparge to get the volume. Sparging is just a simple word that describes adding water to the grains after the mash to rinse out more of the sugars.

With a conventional mash tun you would use a false bottom, a braid, or a manifold and expect the grain husks to form the filter that keeps the grain particles out of the boil kettle and that means you need husks that are mostly intact so you have a limit on how finely the grain can be milled. That coarser milling means it takes longer to do the mash and the mash efficiency takes a hit because one cannot get all the sugars out of the grain particles.

With BIAB the bag forms the filter and that has so much area that it is really difficult to plug it up. That means that intact husks are not needed so one can mill the grain very finely. With that the conversion happens faster and more completely so the mash efficiency goes up. I was surprised at my first attempt when the recipe called for an OG of 1.050 and I got 1.072. After a few batches I learned to trust that mash efficiency and began adjusting recipes to account for that.
Awesome! Yeah this was exactly how I was hoping to do my mash/wort (are these the same thing?), I was going to do BIAB and I didn’t realize I could do all grain in bags! Thanks for all your help and information!
 
I used a 5 gallons SS pot for over a year, employing the BIAB (Brew in a Bag) method, while brewing AG. RM-MN superbly explained what BIAB is, but you can always do some research, plenty of resources online, if you finally decide to go this way; it is indeed a thing of beauty. I adjusted my recipes for 4 gallons, and since I bottled, that gave me between 35 and 40 bottles of beer, more than enough for my drinking needs. I also brewed 5 gallons occasionally; in these cases I simply calculated the recipe for the final volume, but considering the smaller boil volume for hop utilization, I believe all online calculator tools will differentiate between the batch size and the estimated boil size. In order to get the volume to the final 5 gallons, I simply added chilled water previously boiled to the final wort, or added water to the pot gradually while boiling. It's not ideal, but trust me, it works. The smaller batch sizes also allowed me to brew more variety, and made it easy to move on from beers that didn't come out too good. I now own a ravishing 10 gallons pot, but got so accustomed to the 4 gallons batches, that is I still what I brew.
Yeah I definitely want to do all grain since it’s cheaper and I’d assume better. I’m getting some 6 gallon fermonsters so I can do the full 5 and I guess do more concentrated brews or half batches, or move to the bigger turkey fryer aluminum pot I have if I have to or easier. Thanks for all your help! Can’t wait to get started this week!
 
While not a usual all grain method and would take some experimentation, you could brew a high gravity mix then dilute with water to get the gravity of a beer you want and the amount you want. I'm not sure how much information you would be able to find about doing it that way.
Yeah this is what I was thinking and basically what the local brew store told me I could do
 
Online brewing programs like Brewers Friend and even free apps can do dilutions in just a few steps.
Brewers Friend Basic is free online and a dilution simply involves changing your batch and boil sizes.

If you are doing a brew where you know your efficiency in, for example, a 3gal batch and 3gal boil, adding 2 gallons to your batch size will automatically adjust your beer to the proper gravity. On my phone I play with Wort, another free Android app.
You will need to adjust your hopping for a dilution and that's easy. Just add a bit more hops and boil time. The software calculators will teach you a lot simply by doing practice recipes you'll never do
Awesome thanks for the heads up on the apps I’m going to have to check them out. Is the beer Smith app worth it? It says it’s by $8 but is that just a one time fee or is that a subscription?
 
Awesome thanks for the heads up on the apps I’m going to have to check them out. Is the beer Smith app worth it? It says it’s by $8 but is that just a one time fee or is that a subscription?

I use Beersmith and to me it is well worth the cost. I have looked at Brewer's Friend and it is similar. I think you can use it for free but if you want to store recipes or something else, you have to pay.

The $8 or so is a subscription. It includes updates that won't be free if you purchase the program outright. There are some other benefits for the subscription version. You can start the process of purchase and find out the options and benefits of each method of payment before actually making the payment.

It is a tool, it will not just make you a beer. You need to learn how to use it. There are good instructional videos included.
 
I've tried the older Beer Smith versions for Windows and liked it but not enough to pay for it. Many people do, however, and I'd say they're not wrong, but they just have a different perspective that fits their brewing needs better.
Brewers Friend was recommended by my local brewshop and I seem to like the format and flexibility of the varied calculators. It seems to be accurate for me so I use it.
 
I got the 33qt Graniteware pot - cost maybe $40 or so. Yay Bed Bath and Beyond with their 20% off coupons. I brewed 5 gallon batches in there for 10 years - I just now upgraded to a 10gallon Stainless kettle.
Technically, I was brewing even bigger - I was usually targeting 5.5g into the fermenter.
The only thing with kettles smaller than 8 gallons is watching your boilover. Not a big deal, just have to keep a close eye on it until the break happens with a spoon or spray bottle of water.
 
I got the 33qt Graniteware pot - cost maybe $40 or so. Yay Bed Bath and Beyond with their 20% off coupons. I brewed 5 gallon batches in there for 10 years - I just now upgraded to a 10gallon Stainless kettle.
Technically, I was brewing even bigger - I was usually targeting 5.5g into the fermenter.
The only thing with kettles smaller than 8 gallons is watching your boilover. Not a big deal, just have to keep a close eye on it until the break happens with a spoon or spray bottle of water.
Awesome this makes me feel a lot better!

I had a question to anyone listening about brewers friend, I feel lost when inputting stuff on the recipe builder. It just seems like I’m missing a “go” button or something.

Also so what is the Water:Grain ratio usually? Minimum and Maximum?
 
If you haven't used the More Beer deluxe kit yet, send it back and get a bigger kettle, OR just brew smaller batches to start off with.
There's nothing wrong with 2.5 or 3 gallon batches. I have capacity to brew 10-12 gallon batches, but I brew smaller batches all the time. I don't always want 5 gallons of one thing.
 
Your water to grain ratio is usually referenced in quarts of H20 per pound of grain.
1.5 to 1.75 quarts of water per pound of grain would be a fairly reasonable assumption. Calculate about .125 gallons of mash water absorbed per pound of grain and adjust your volume to compensate.

When using the Recipe Builder, first choose your style.
- Select "BIAB" as your brew method and choose your Batch size and Estimated boil size in gallons.
- Efficiency should be anywhere from 70-75% (can be more if doing BIAB)
- Choose your grains and add in the "Fermentables" block.
- Choose your hops, enter the AAU level on the packet, and select pellets if using pellets. Adjust your boil time.
-Choose your yeast from the "Yeast" menu.
 
If you haven't used the More Beer deluxe kit yet, send it back and get a bigger kettle, OR just brew smaller batches to start off with.
There's nothing wrong with 2.5 or 3 gallon batches. I have capacity to brew 10-12 gallon batches, but I brew smaller batches all the time. I don't always want 5 gallons of one thing.
Yeah I was thinking that but I’m still going to keep it so I can use my stove top and get the basics.

I have a 7.5 gallon aluminum turkey deep fryer pot can I do I 5 gallon batch in that or will I be pushing that? I read I need to have double the size I’m brewing...

And what about sparging the extra, do a small concentrated brew and add clean water to the fermonster?
 
Your water to grain ratio is usually referenced in quarts of H20 per pound of grain.
1.5 to 1.75 quarts of water per pound of grain would be a fairly reasonable assumption. Calculate about .125 gallons of mash water absorbed per pound of grain and adjust your volume to compensate.

When using the Recipe Builder, first choose your style.
- Select "BIAB" as your brew method and choose your Batch size and Estimated boil size in gallons.
- Efficiency should be anywhere from 70-75% (can be more if doing BIAB)
- Choose your grains and add in the "Fermentables" block.
- Choose your hops, enter the AAU level on the packet, and select pellets if using pellets. Adjust your boil time.
-Choose your yeast from the "Yeast" menu.
Yeah I guess the efficiency was throwing me off? What does that mean?
 
Wort is a very easy to understand Android app and it's free in the Google store.. Add it to your smartphone and play around with it. There is a "pay" version of Wort but the basic app works great.
 
If you want a good description of "efficiency", click on the question mark next to the percentage block. There's a detailed page in the Brewers Friend FAQ for it - and more.

There are different definitions for efficiency but the one I look for most is the overall efficiency termed "brewhouse efficiency". It's the standard on Brewers Friend.
 
I have a 7.5 gallon aluminum turkey deep fryer pot can I do I 5 gallon batch in that or will I be pushing that? I read I need to have double the size I’m brewing...

Do a boil test. Measure 5 gallons of water, put it in the pot, boil for a half hour, let it cool and see how much water boiled off.
If your pot evaporates 1.5 gallons of water in an hour, you can use your 7.5 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch.
 
I used a seven gallon aluminum turkey kettle to make 5 gallon+ full boils for years. Just have to be watchful as the boil approaches to avoid boil over. Easy enough if you are paying attention.

You could use the 5 gallon ss pot for heating sparge water or smaller batches.
 
Do a boil test. Measure 5 gallons of water, put it in the pot, boil for a half hour, let it cool and see how much water boiled off.
If your pot evaporates 1.5 gallons of water in an hour, you can use your 7.5 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch.
Awesome thanks, will do.
 
If you want a good description of "efficiency", click on the question mark next to the percentage block. There's a detailed page in the Brewers Friend FAQ for it - and more.

There are different definitions for efficiency but the one I look for most is the overall efficiency termed "brewhouse efficiency". It's the standard on Brewers Friend.
I have an iPhone sadly it’s not available... thanks for your help I’ll do some reading on brewers friend
 
I used a seven gallon aluminum turkey kettle to make 5 gallon+ full boils for years. Just have to be watchful as the boil approaches to avoid boil over. Easy enough if you are paying attention.

You could use the 5 gallon ss pot for heating sparge water or smaller batches.
Thanks so much! I’ll definitely be doing that I didn’t think about that. I was wondering to what I’d do for the SS kettle because I didn’t want to use it only a few times and that’s it.

So if I use the Al pot with the stand alone burner I Need to do it outside right? And if so I don’t have a patio or anything I just have a sidewalk that extends out my back porch. Is there risk of me contaminating my batch by brewing outside and bringing inside? How exactly should I go about brewing outside, because I’m basically surrounded by dirt...
 
Yeah I was thinking that but I’m still going to keep it so I can use my stove top and get the basics.

I have a 7.5 gallon aluminum turkey deep fryer pot can I do I 5 gallon batch in that or will I be pushing that? I read I need to have double the size I’m brewing...
You can use the 7.5 gallon aluminum for a 5-gallon batch - like I said earlier, just have to keep a close eye on boilover.
It's never a bad thing to have a smaller kettle around - I use mine for heating sparge water so my main kettle is open to drain the primary mash into. Not to mention other kitchen duties a large pot comes in handy for.
 
You can use the 7.5 gallon aluminum for a 5-gallon batch - like I said earlier, just have to keep a close eye on boilover.
It's never a bad thing to have a smaller kettle around - I use mine for heating sparge water so my main kettle is open to drain the primary mash into. Not to mention other kitchen duties a large pot comes in handy for.
Awesome thanks!
 
So can I not just do a 3 gallon or 2.5 gallon brew with all grains and then just add cold water to top off to 5 gallons like I’m doing right now with my Extract kit?
 
So I bought two Extract kits and then decided to buy an All Grain kit to see what I can do with it in my 5 gallon kettle. My first batch didn’t ever really have a hot break, I guess the stove top wasn’t powerful enough. It just eventually was boiling, I also stirred it regularly so maybe that helped.

So my question is how should I tackle the All Grain in 5 gallon kettle? I guess I still don’t understand how if I just put all the grains in the pot and boil and then Add the rest of the water won’t work?

Boil 3.5gl then add 1.5-2gl of cold water to the wort after boiling.

Why wouldn’t this work? This is my plan for doing the all grain. The only other option I have is the 7.5 gallon but even then that’s “not enough” as instructions state which say to use 10 gallon pot. If I’m to use 7.5 gl pot what should I do? And what’s the real point of “sparge” water, why can’t I just use cold water?
 
Also I’m going to do BIAB so I don’t be have to have the filter in the bottom of the mash tun or kettle or whatever it is. I’m trying to Only use a 5 gallon SS or use that And my 7.5 gallon AL pot, I don’t have the money to buy even more equipment.
 
So if I use the Al pot with the stand alone burner I Need to do it outside right? And if so I don’t have a patio or anything I just have a sidewalk that extends out my back porch. Is there risk of me contaminating my batch by brewing outside and bringing inside? How exactly should I go about brewing outside, because I’m basically surrounded by dirt...

You need to do the stand alone burner outside to avoid the chance of death due to carbon monoxide poisoning. While the chance is small it is real and final. Brewing outside is great if the weather cooperates. There is much more bacteria in the air inside your house than outside. Sunlight kills a lot of bacteria.

So can I not just do a 3 gallon or 2.5 gallon brew with all grains and then just add cold water to top off to 5 gallons like I’m doing right now with my Extract kit?

You can make the concentrated wort and then top it off but the efficiency goes down with the larger grain bill per unit of water so you need more grain which then makes the efficiency go down so you need more grain....You do see where this is going, don't you. It can be done but it isn't easy.

So I bought two Extract kits and then decided to buy an All Grain kit to see what I can do with it in my 5 gallon kettle. My first batch didn’t ever really have a hot break, I guess the stove top wasn’t powerful enough. It just eventually was boiling, I also stirred it regularly so maybe that helped.

Your extract batch didn't have much foam/hot break because the foam and hot break mostly happened in the process of making the extract. It will be different with all grain.
 
is this possible? Just bought the deluxe kit from more beer and it’s a 5 gallon kettle, will I be able to brew 5 gallon batches with Grain or am I limited to DME 5 gallon batches or small Grain batches like 3 gallon?
do yourself a favor and buy a 10 gallon kettle. You can use the 5 gallon for your strike and sparge water, boil in the 10.
 
So I bought two Extract kits and then decided to buy an All Grain kit to see what I can do with it in my 5 gallon kettle. My first batch didn’t ever really have a hot break, I guess the stove top wasn’t powerful enough. It just eventually was boiling, I also stirred it regularly so maybe that helped.

So my question is how should I tackle the All Grain in 5 gallon kettle? I guess I still don’t understand how if I just put all the grains in the pot and boil and then Add the rest of the water won’t work?

Boil 3.5gl then add 1.5-2gl of cold water to the wort after boiling.

Why wouldn’t this work? This is my plan for doing the all grain. The only other option I have is the 7.5 gallon but even then that’s “not enough” as instructions state which say to use 10 gallon pot. If I’m to use 7.5 gl pot what should I do? And what’s the real point of “sparge” water, why can’t I just use cold water?
you can sparge with cold water.. It has been done and said to have slim to no effect on efficiency. I still prefer to use hot water to batch sparge . Old habits die hard.
The problem youre going to have is that the grains absorb a lot of water and take up space. For a 5 gallon pot ,adding the grains plus absorption and boiling head space, you'll be lucky to have 3 gallons of wort in the end. I started out with an 8 gallon pot to make 5 and 6 gallon batches. I made it work , but, had a few boil overs and just recently bought a 10 gallon kettle for my boil.
 
You need to do the stand alone burner outside to avoid the chance of death due to carbon monoxide poisoning. While the chance is small it is real and final. Brewing outside is great if the weather cooperates. There is much more bacteria in the air inside your house than outside. Sunlight kills a lot of bacteria.



You can make the concentrated wort and then top it off but the efficiency goes down with the larger grain bill per unit of water so you need more grain which then makes the efficiency go down so you need more grain....You do see where this is going, don't you. It can be done but it isn't easy.



Your extract batch didn't have much foam/hot break because the foam and hot break mostly happened in the process of making the extract. It will be different with all grain.
Haha yeah I see where it’s going. I spent hours last night trying to understand all grain brewing and sparging haha thankfully it finally clicked... to a degree. And gotcha I was wondering why I didn’t have any foam.
 
you can sparge with cold water.. It has been done and said to have slim to no effect on efficiency. I still prefer to use hot water to batch sparge . Old habits die hard.
The problem youre going to have is that the grains absorb a lot of water and take up space. For a 5 gallon pot ,adding the grains plus absorption and boiling head space, you'll be lucky to have 3 gallons of wort in the end. I started out with an 8 gallon pot to make 5 and 6 gallon batches. I made it work , but, had a few boil overs and just recently bought a 10 gallon kettle for my boil.
Yeah I finally understand Why it won’t work, I appreciate everyone’s help. I just can’t buy a bigger kettle, don’t have the money or area to do it. Maybe in a year I’ll upgrade to an electric mash/kettle to do full 5 gl batches in one, but for now I’ve got to make what I have work.

So that being said, I think I’m just going to split the 5 gallon recipe into 2, and put half in each kettle. Then just blend in fermenter after cooling. This way I can keep it all in my kitchen and on my stove, and can just cool it in my sink instead of wasting lots of water in chiller or ice in tub.
 
Yeah I finally understand Why it won’t work, I appreciate everyone’s help. I just can’t buy a bigger kettle, don’t have the money or area to do it. Maybe in a year I’ll upgrade to an electric mash/kettle to do full 5 gl batches in one, but for now I’ve got to make what I have work.

So that being said, I think I’m just going to split the 5 gallon recipe into 2, and put half in each kettle. Then just blend in fermenter after cooling. This way I can keep it all in my kitchen and on my stove, and can just cool it in my sink instead of wasting lots of water in chiller or ice in tub.
just be careful handling a pot of boiling water to the sink. 3rd degrees burns arent part of the brewing process. if you can , invest in an inexpensive pond pump. the size that goes for one of those small plastic yard ponds. doesnt have to be big, just move water . Fit into a 5 gallon bucket and covered in ice water it'll work your chiller. just keep 2-3 bags (10 lb)of ice handy for brew day.
 
just be careful handling a pot of boiling water to the sink. 3rd degrees burns arent part of the brewing process. if you can , invest in an inexpensive pond pump. the size that goes for one of those small plastic yard ponds. doesnt have to be big, just move water . Fit into a 5 gallon bucket and covered in ice water it'll work your chiller. just keep 2-3 bags (10 lb)of ice handy for brew day.
Haha yeah I definitely know that, I actually almost cut half of my thumb off a couple months ago, thank GOD it didn’t go through and I was able to piece it back together and didn’t need stitches! I cook for a living, and make 5.5-6 Gallons of soup a multiple times a week, and pour those boiling bastards into other containers. I still will Always be cautious, but thankfully carrying and dumping 2.5-3 gallons is not nearly as daunting as a the soups. And honestly I was very surprised how quickly I cooled the wort down to 130, it cooled down to like 110 before I could bat an eye, it probably only took me 10 minutes at most, granted I’m sure I’d need to cool it down more for AG BIAB, that was Extract.
 

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